eajonesgue

Not a lot of progress last week. Hopefully, some paint will be put onto the body this week. Inner front fenders were airbrushed decanted Tamiya pure white lacquer, then masked and airbrushed with Tamiya semi-gloss acrylic. The windshield glass had a couple of gaps in the 'weatherstripping'. These were filled in with sheet styrene and once dried, will be sanded down so the windshield fit is better. Also, in the photo, the windshield wipers have been removed and the side vent louvers have been filled in with putty. It just looked like it was too much trouble to try to detail the vent louvers.

Airbrushed Tamiya racing white in seats and door panels. These will be followed by flat clear to down down the shine. These parts don't exactly match the restored truck, so I am using artistic license to modify. Also in the photo are the fender wells in semi-gloss black (foreground) and the steering column in gloss black (right side)

Masked the green on the firewall and airbrushed pure white. Now comes the tricky part - painting the dashboard to replicate the graphics on the real car.

The Revell kit is for a 'four on the floor' stick shift, whereas the restored truck is a 'three on the tree' shifter. The photo shows the steering columns of the AMT '53 Ford F100 (bottom), the Revell kit (middle) and my scratchbuilt version with the shifter from the AMT kit (top) Turn signal stalk is a piece of aluminum wire (20 gauge, 0.8 mm, 0.032" diameter) with a blob of superglue that was then sanded to shape.

I did reach out to Galpin Auto Sports and will see what they respond. The Revell instructions are to build the tailgate and the 'hinges' at the same time. This looked to me to be tricky to smooth the seams and paint. I glued the hinges on the rear of the bed, puttied and sanded smooth. By trimming just a bit of the tailgate, and bending it slightly in the middle, it can slip into the hinge holes. There is a bit of a sink area at the rear of the bed that also needed to be puttied (hard to see in these photos).

Not a lot of work this week, but here it is. Added strip styrene to the right side fender. Once dried, it was sanded down flush and then the gap was made equal. Removed engraved "Thunderbird" on valve covers and then airbrushed with Alclad airframe aluminum were airbrushed. I only found one photo of the engine bay of the restored truck and am trying to recreate that. As noted in the articles cited above, the original truck was painted a light green. Roth then painted the body white, added flames and pinstriping, but some parts were left green. The restoration followed that same pattern. A mixture of Tamiya X-2 white, with just a couple of drops of XS-28 park green was airbrushed on the firewall and some areas under the dashboard on the interior.

The taillights in the kit were chrome plated over white plastic. A mold was made of the pair and then four pieces were cast in clear resin. Once the rears are sanded smooth and polished, they will be painted clear red and mounted on styrene backing plates with bare metal foil.

Here is the rear suspension so far - Meng bolt heads and nuts added to leaf springs, dampers and differential, brake lines added. Front suspension so far.

Drive shaft has been replaced with styrene rod and 3D printed universal joints added. This will be painted in silver metallics to make is stand out a bit. Radiator airbrushed with Tamiya decanted TS-14 gloss black and then a dark grey wash added so that the p/e radiator mesh is more visible. You can also see one of the Meng nuts that are used to add detail to many of the parts.

More updates. There is quite a gap on both sides of the hood. The passenger side was filled with 0.030" (0.75 mm) styrene strip, bent to follow the fender countour. The driver side is not quite as bad and will be 0.020" (0.5 mm) strip and then they will be blended in.

A correction on my previous post - the leaf springs are 0.020" (0.5 mm) x 0.080" (2.0 mm) Hard to see in the photo, but the handles/cranks on the door panels were chiseled off and replaced with resin pieces (before on the right, finished on the left). I believe these are from Replicas and Miniatures. More update tomorrow.

Some work on the suspension. Modified rear dampers. New leaf springs - .020" (0.5 mm) by .060" (1.5 mm) styrene strips, .040" (1 mm diameter rod) and aluminum duct tape. Radiator faces were also updated with some photoetched mesh.

Topher - I did read that the restoration did start by painting the car the original Ford green. I may have a few panels that are green. I will have a few postings of the progress. The one mentioned before is about the exhaust manifold. They are too long to match up with the heads. I found that using a metal hacksaw blade in two cuts, was the perfect distance to shorten them. I also added some aluminum craft wire pins to locate the parts on the heads. Before removing the firewall, fender and front engine cover molded wires and bolt heads, they were marked and photographed. This way, I will know how to add the details back.

Bill Thanks for the additional information, there were a few that I was not aware of. I have created a post in the WIP - Trucks section under https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/200207-ed-big-daddy-roth-56-ford-f100-pickup/

Further to my previous posting on this topic - Photos of the original truck are almost non-existent and in black and white, so I will be trying to recreate the restored car. I only found one photo online of the restored engine bay, so there will be some 'artistic license' used throughout My ambitious list of ideas to correct and detail this kit includes: - wheels and tires from AMT 1953 Ford pickup (but not the hubcaps). There does not seem to be any other parts that are usable. - drum brake backing plates from a mold of the ones from the Tweedy Pie, and then cast in resin - scratchbuilt leaf springs on all four corners. The kit had 4 leaves (leafs?) and photos of some restored trucks have 8 leaves. - poseable steering added, almost done - a club member has printed three sets of painting masks as I hope to paint the flames instead of using the decals - 3D printed universal joints and replace drive shaft with styrene rod - Bestmodelcarparts provided gauges - I haven't even thought about the doors yet probably a few things I have missed

The content below was taken from the post above The truck was originally bought brand new by Ed Roth in 1956 and he painted it white with the red flames, pinstriping and some advertising information for his business. The car was sold soon afterwards, repainted and then eventually sat for over 50 years. After a few different ownership changes, the car was given to Galpin Motors to do the restoration, which was completed in 2017. Below are three sites that have additional information, if you are interested. Motor Trend Ed 'Big Daddy' Roth barn find Kustomrama Ed Roth 1956 Ford truck Jalopy Journal forum on Ed Roth's truck

This will be my WIP of this old Revell kit. Some of the content has been moved from the forum post below. I will try to post progress each Sunday and will clean up the photos as best I can, they are all taken with my phone.

Further to my previous posting on this topic - Photos of the original truck are almost non-existent and in black and white, so I will be trying to recreate the restored car. I only found one photo online of the restored engine bay, so there will be some 'artistic license' used throughout My ambitious list of ideas to correct and detail this kit includes: - wheels and tires from AMT 1953 Ford pickup (but not the hubcaps). There does not seem to be any other parts that are usable. - drum brake backing plates from a mold of the ones from the Tweedy Pie, and then cast in resin - scratchbuilt leaf springs on all four corners (fronts are done). The kit had 4 leaves (leafs?) and photos of some restored trucks have 8 leaves. - poseable steering added, almost done - a club member has printed three sets of painting masks as I hope to paint the flames instead of using the decals - engine detail will include scratchbuilt exhaust crossover pipe, generator and brackets, pulleys replaced with machined pieces. I have already corrected an issue with the exhaust manifold in that it is too long. Using a metal hacksaw blade, they were cut in two places and glued back together. Locating pins were also added. - I haven't even thought about the doors yet

This posting is quite timely, as I am in the middle of building this very kit. Here is some of the history I have uncovered on the internet. The truck was originally bought brand new by Ed Roth in 1956 and he painted it white with the red flames, pinstriping and some advertising information for his business. The car was sold soon afterwards, repainted and then eventually sat for over 50 years. After a few different ownership changes, the car was given to Galpin Motors to do the restoration, which was completed in 2017. Below are three sites that have additional information, if you are interested. Motor Trend Ed 'Big Daddy' Roth barn find Kustomrama Ed Roth 1956 Ford truck Jalopy Journal forum on Ed Roth's truck

I have wanted to build a number of mid-60's Indy race cars - 1964 Lotus 34 (modifying the AMT Lotus 29), a 1965 Lotus 38 (from the IMC kit) and a 1968 Gurney Eagle (MPC kit). It would entail quite a lot of work correcting the many inaccuracies if these kits. One of the biggest drawbacks is that the engines in these kits are so poorly molded. There is distinct lack of detail, the size is not correct and the 'bundle of snakes' exhaust is usually a blob of plastic. I have been in touch with Mad Mike (on this forum) and was able to secure three engines that were 3D printed in the correct size for these 1:25 scale kits. Below are some comparison and test fitting photos for these three engines. I'm sure there are a variety of other kits that could use this engine. 1964 Lotus 34 - Here is the Mad Mike engine, compared to the AMT Lotus powered by Ford (Lotus 29) experimental engine. I have never seen a photo of the AMT engine, with these exhaust pipes, on any race car. The AMT engine is a bit undersized. Here is the engine, test fitting into the AMT chassis, it needs to be lowered a bit and a transmission added. 1965 Lotus 38 - Jimmy Clark Indy 500 winner, from IMC kit. The exhaust 'blob' is replaced by 3D printed pipes. Here is the engine test fitted into the IMC chassis 1968 Gurney Eagle - MPC kit comparing the two engines. The transmissions is extremely well done. Here is the engine test fitted into the MPC chassis

Here are some additional kits that would be candidates for a RHD to LHD conversion Aoshima Daihatsu Copen Aoshima Honda Beat Aoshima Suzuki Cappuccino Fujimi Fiat Barchetta Fujimi Toyota MR-S turbo Fujimi Honda NSX/NSX-R Most of these kits have had multiple re-issues (different box art, photoetch added, etc.) so I haven't included the kit numbers I have done one conversion of the Fujimi Honda NSX by resin casting the dashboard from the Tamiya NSX kit (24100), with some persuading to get it to fit. I have yet to take an existing dash and switch the halves. The other option is to find a 3D printer who would be willing to scan, flip and print out the LHD version of a dashboard. Would be quite a bit of work and would need to be able to recoup those costs.

Falcon Scale Models is a 3D print company out of Poland that does 1:12 scale motorcycle parts (chains, clutch baskets) and some 1:20 scale F1 parts His eBay name is falconsm_1 and the website is https://www.falconscalemodels.com/

Here's my story: I want to do the street legal Porsche 935 K3 that Walter Wolf contracted Kremer to produce after the Le Mans race (see photo), but there was no kit really close to it. Then Beemax/Aoshima produced the K2 and I bought it thinking that I could use that as a starting point, but it would require quite a bit of bodywork. Then Renaissance produced a resin kit (or you could buy the resin body alone). Many of the details matched the Wolf K3 (notably the front headlight/clip) and so I bought the body and would use the K2 chassis underneath. I have even got a guy to custom produce the logo and script decals for the car using metallic gold printing (ALPS printer, I believe) And now I see that Platz nunu produced the K3 Le Mans car which is much closer to the Wolf car and so I have ordered that as well. I guess it pays (or actually costs a lot) to be patient! (anyone interested in a Renaissance resin body?)

This sounds like a great idea to honour a great contributor to sports cars. This fits very well with the theme of the upcoming Kingston Modelrama contest in Kingston, Ontario, Canada on May 5 - "Rembering Carroll Shelby". Most contests have a collection category - five or more models with a single theme. I've entered a few, "5 convertible sports cars that I will never be allowed to own" and recently a "Mustangs - Then and Now" collection. This last collection consisted of 6 Mustangs, in three pairs, with each pair being an older ('60's) version and a more modern version ('06 to '08). For the Kingston show I want to enter a diorama/collection of 6 Shelby cars with the same idea - an older version and a modern version. I already have 4 of them built: Shelby Cobra 427 - built out of the box The modern companion - Shelby Series 1 - also built out of the box with the same paint as the Cobra 427 For the second pair, the older version is the GT350R that raced at 1967 LeMans - lots of body and interior modifications and the modern companion is a 2008 GT500 street legal car made to look like a racer The final pair I started about a month ago - GT500KR's from the 1968 AMT kit and the 2008 Revell kit. They've both been painted with the same Testors Ferrari red and Alclad dull aluminum stripes. I'll post the final versions once I've completed the last pair.