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Ah, life before cup holders. At that time the glove box door would have round indentations on the inside. When the door was open you could place your drink in the indentations that kept them from sliding off onto the floor.

So many different subjects shown. The detailing on the Military and Air Craft plus the figures is amazing. Beautiful looking Automobile and Truck models with a lot of different paint treatments. I recognize several of the models that I've seen coming together here on the Forum. Thank you for sharing, great show.

I have used pieces of thick spruce from the kit. I cut to length, sand the ends to the desired shape. The ends can either be drilled to except the exhaust pipes or drill and install hollow tubing to replicate a flange and have the exhaust feed into the flange.

This looks better than what GM did with this model years ago. I know styles change from year to year, but this roof looks much better than what GM built.

They're all great looking. I really like Li'l Nasty. Very impressive considering these are made up of what you had floating around from other builds.

The interior looks great and I like the body color as well. What did you use on the body ?

Some times the surface you're going to paint can become contaminated on your way to the spray booth. I'm not sure where your living or your weather conditions, but this can sometimes create a situation were the models body is effected by static electricity and this will attract any dust particles in the air. this can be caused by walking across a carpeted area or if there is low humidity and wind blowing outside even. I also learned from a 1:1 painter a long time ago to not wear and flannel shirts in the area were you're working on getting a surface reedy for painting. Any static electricity will pull in any lose fibers in the air. As pointed out by Steamboat start with a very fine sand paper. You can always go to a courser sand paper if need be but your better off going after this with a very fine sand paper and very light pressure when sanding.

Another possibility would have to do with the age of the decals. Irregular or flat painted surfaces are always problem, but if the decals are old, say 4 to 5 years old, the adhesive on the decal can cause problems much like you have here. I did a model that was even older than that and the decals started to turn almost like there was dirt between the decal and the models body. I wiped away the adhesive with a Q-Tip before applying them to the model. This seemed to work in that case. There was still enough adhesive to hold the decals in place when they dried and I covered them with clear anyway so they look just as good now as when I did this a couple of years ago. Just a possibility.

El Roberto is correct about the in the bottle primer. It works great for what it's designed to do. The cap has a brush attached for application use. Mine didn't last long before it just fell apart. I used a paint brush to do applications after that. My suggestion is to not use a brush you care about since it will be gumnd up after one use. The good news is has saved many of my boo boos.

Just perceiver and don't give up. This will look amazing in the end.

That's what I'm talking about. Very clean looking.

While its "beauty" may be in the eye of the beholder, this is certainly a well preserved kit. Just polish to plastic and add some chrome trim and it would make a great shelf sitter.

POWER OUTAGES !!!! Just got kicked off line again by power outage. One of those 1 -2 second type outages. Just enough to have to reset every clock in the house, starting to wonder why we really need this many clocks. The problem stems from the buried cables that are being installed everywhere. I'm not talking about the installation where they dig a trench and put the lines in and cover them. The last few years, mostly Fiber Optic cables, they just have someone siting on a machine and drilling and forcing the cable along parallel to the grounds surface. There are already a lot of things under ground like old phone lines, electric lines, gas lines. The companies doing this work keep drilling holes thru the existing infrastructure causing power outages and gas leaks. There should be a law against this type of indiscriminate drilling. A couple of years ago here in KCMO they drilled a gas line that then filled a locally famous restaurant with natural gas that exploded killing one of the employees and injuring several other people and caused extensive damage to office buildings next to it and leaving a smoldering hole where the restaurant once stood. The Gas Company had sent someone out to check on the smell of gas before the explosion and they told the manager to just air out the restaurant and they would be fine. So you have the people that are charged with monitoring this activity and they're just as bad as the people drilling every where willy nelly or as they please. What could go wrong ?? I'm just thankful that it just bumped me off line. This all still makes me wait to here what they've blown up next.

You might try a search on this Forum, I recall someone doing just that in the resent past.

Revell kitted a very nice '57 Bel Air Convertible based off of their '57 Black Widow and Bel Air two door post body tooling.

Hopefully there will be pictures for those of use unable to attend. Always nice to see what other builders are doing.

The first thing I noticed was the realistic looking body finish. There're many trucks running around here that look just like this. That's pretty realistic. I had watched everything you had done on the Chassis and the Engine conversion, and they turned out great. The body conversion was really interesting to see, a lot of body work went into this.

I'm going to have to build one of these.

That is one beautiful looking '57 Ford. I had seen part of your build you referenced and how you created the Continental Kit. That was a pretty expensive and popular option in its day. The bold colors also make it standout and your paint finish looks right on this.

Very cleanly built. Your correct about dark colors and photography, that's a hard one. They way you used different colors, especially on the Chassis, looks great.

Great looking Mustang. The color and its finish as well as the way you shot the pictures really show all of the nice body lines on this Mustang. Very clean chrome trim and detailed wheels.

I'm not normally a fan of Green anything except money, but I do like the looks of this. Like others have mentioned the chassis and just a hint of grime on the Engine look great. You mentioned trying to blacken the door seems, I've started using Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color on some of my builds and have been very happy with the results. The cap has a tiny brush but in fact just a drop and this stuff shoots down the gap by it's self. They offer a couple of different colors also. Should this young damsel not like this build maybe it's not to be.

Beautiful looking Mercury, I wish the model companies had shown a little love for some of the great looking Mercury body styles. The body and interior colors are spot on for the time period. The chrome Wire Wheels would have been pretty special at that time. I remember a neighbor who had a Salmon & Black roof one with those and it was an outstanding looking car also.

Very realistic looking details on this engine. I like the Fuel Pump and Blower Drive especially.

This engine has got to be one of the best detailed engines in a long time. I like how you used different colored wiring on the Alternator. I'm looking forward to the rest of this build.