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Not entirely sure of the problem but the first thing that I notice is the use of alcohol as a cleaning agent. In my mind I think any residual alcohol on the surface could effect same paints. Usually the Dawn bath and a thorough water rinse is sufficient cleaning. You didn't mention any priming of the surface which is something I would normally recommend. I have a recently purchased Rust-Oleum American Accents and notice they state that includes both paint and primer so I don't think that in its self would be a problem. The most common paint wrinkling is attributed to the use of both Enamel and Lacquer paints on the same surface.

Don't do Fake Book, it will rot your mind.

Like so many others I bought from Modelhaus with confidence that what ever I was getting would be the best quality that could be had. There will always be some poor casters I guess but there are many out there that are truly very good and great to deal with. The ones that I have bought from sight unseen are listed in the Forums Resin/After market section and none of those have been a problem. Ask other builders here of their experience with an unknown caster and that should give you a good idea of their products. There is still no substitute for holding it in your hand to examine the part and that's why I often buy at swap meets and model shows where you can talk to the caster and look over your purchase in advance. Many of use wish that Modelhause was still around but that doesn't mean that there is no one else doing quality work.

Looking at the way the frame on the 4x4 is bent I'd say that was a big impact. The Charger held up pretty well considering. I think they both are going to be in the market for new vehicles.

Sounds like to many nutty people with to much time on their hands. Say didn't they used to burn witches in that area years ago ?

For those who are using the pen for body trim I have a question. Are you scribing or cutting in or what ever you want to call it along the edge of the molding. In a bygone era when about all we had was some Testors Chrome bottle paint and a brush I learned a technique of using a #11 to lightly scribe along the edge of the moldings. The paint and 000 brush I would use to flow the paint onto the molding and the line I had created with the #11 formed a dam for lack of a better term that the paint would flow up to but not beyond. With the problems I see so many mentioning when using the pen or even brushing it on this may help with that problem.

Additional grill options can be found in the Revell Merc chopped top custom.

He provided some great stuff. Maybe with a little rest he'll change his mind in the future. Either way I wish him well and thank him for the past.

You just have to ask yourself, "Is your glass half full or half empty?" I'm thankful for what they've brought to us since some of these kits were getting kind of expensive for old originals. Round 2 has brought better tires and decal sets for their reissues also. Sounds a little more like half full and getting fuller all the time. .

I like your GTO. To me it looks just as you described it. As so many others mentioned, your detailing of the chassis and the engine are very realistic of what you were going for. I don't know why but I like the looks of the post cars although the hardtops were sleek looking for sure.

Very clean well built RX7, and the color really makes it stand out. That color is almost to nice to be on a truck so I can see why you used it.

The Super Bee's engine detailing is really a stand out. I like how you did the different paint treatments in a different style for each build. They all look great. I'll bet you have seen more than a few Roadkill shows on TV.

Great looking conversion I'd like to see more pictures if you have any. Your two tone paint job looks just like the real thing as does the addition chrome trim.

Great looking build, especially the color. I enjoyed following your build on this one.

You got the perfect stance, wheel and tires, and I like how you eliminated some of the side trim. The engine details look great.

Great looking GTO. Nicely done body trim. Like you I built one sometime ago as an OOB build. As luck would have it mine was molded in red, and since I was going for the Car & Driver look from their so called comparison to the Ferrari GTO that worked out just fine. Some careful sanding and polishing of the body was good enough. I also prefer the post body style. Your interior with the optional sport steering wheel looks very realistic also.

Great looking paint and body work. The foiling looks good in the pictures also.

I really like the way the colors work together on this. The roof section looks amazing.

That 1:1 Montego is beautiful looking. Is this yours ? If so I fully understand, I have tried to build models of some of my former vehicles and it has been a challenge depending on the vehicle and the color. mot to mention if a particular body style had ever been modeled. If you don't mind my asking what part of Illinois are you in. Much of my younger life was spent in the burbs of Chicago and I once was a Barrington Broncho.

I like the way you're detailing the chassis and under body of your build. Very realistic looking. I remember the color you're using and while it was one of those that you either liked or didn't at the time I still think it was a great color to show off the lines of these cars way back when. Were I to ever own another 1:1 Chevrolet or Pontiac from that era it would be this color even if it meant repainting it.

At this point you have a great looking Montego. That dark Green color might not hide much in body imperfections, so it's hard to realize just how bad the original casting must have been. I'd say you made a great save here.

Beautiful looking Charger. I like all the extra touches you did in the detailing of the grill area. So what happened at the farm house ?

I have been enjoying watching your build and the paint work especially. You mentioned adding decals ? So the patterns on the roof are decals ? Do they come in black or other colors and what is the source of the decals ? When you lay the candy color over this it's really going to pop.

I care for my brushes much like you have described. I use two different sets of brushes. I also use primarily Tamiya paints. After cleaning them in water, nothing more than a lot of swishing around in the water and then I do the same thing in a dedicated larger bottle of X-20A Thinner and gently towel dry and store bristles up right in an old tooth brush holder. The second set of brushes I use for any painting using Model Master paints which are generally lacquer based. I still start with a water bath and then a good swishing around in Model Master Lacquer Thinner after that I'll towel dry and store in the same manor. I can't remember the last time I had to buy any paint brushes. Maybe between what I do and Belugawrx's way of doing it you may be able to find something that works for you.

Thank you for the information, I'll have to try it. By the way I like your '50 Ford in your icon. Thank you for the additional information. I'll print my 40% off coupon and go check it out. I'm so cheep.