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Great find for only $10. I like your idea to freshen up the body finish. Small block Chevy parts should be easy, and I notice who ever built this used 283 "rams horn" exhaust manifolds anyway.

Very nice looking interior. I like the car keys in the ignition.

These cars are not very common in our area, at least that I have seen. My wife and I were out and about yesterday and had a sighting of one waiting to turn into traffic. We looked at each other and she said anyone wanting to drive one of these things has a death wish.

I think it would be a great idea especially if they raced in the old format instead of the three races in one that they have now. The first two photos look like the old Riverside Raceway, now shopping center, at the end of the S's into the hard right hander going uphill. Being a much older fan I remember just how easy it was to relate to the cars on the track. Today not so much. Most other sanctioning bodies have Vintage races and I agree that NASCAR could benefit from the same type of races.

This is what I was talking about the hull being a little fussy. I reinforced the joint inside with a strip of plastic so that it wouldn't flex. Also a little Tamiya body putty to fill the gap. The front deck isn't quite as bad.

I like your fender flare idea.

You can use just about any brand of paint you want, it's the finish that you should be concerned about. By that I mean the amount of gloss in the finish. This will very from a low gloss for vinyl or leather interior materials. A flatter finish for a cloth material. Remember the top of a dash board will tend to have a flat finish in a 1:1 to cut down on glair while driving. Sometimes you will be trying to have an interior that matches the exterior or something a couple of shades darker or lighter. I think a builder would want to get comfortable with how clears dry flat or semi gloss.

I hope there is someone who will share their pictures for those of us unable to make it.

Glad to see this build up and running again. The interior and consoles look good.

I'd check with any large auto supply store in your area. Many have interior dye sprays that should or could be the correct color. Also any automotive paint store selling to body shops in the area, they may be able to get an exact match for you.

This is a neat kit. I built the boat a couple of years ago. This is a fairly old mold and the mounting pins for the hull half's are a little fussy. Revell did a good job, for the time, in trying to give you a lot of detail both on the boat and the trailer. I'm not sure how hard or expensive it is to get parts from resin casters in the US but I have used parts from Harts Parts and he offers some good conversion parts for this boat that I have used. He's listed in the Resin/After Market section here on the forum, All his casting are very high quality. I just double checked on the boat parts I mentioned. - I have used Harts Parts before but it wasn't for the Boat. The parts are listed under Calnege Castings. He offers several options. The interior in this kit is not very realistic and he offers a great tuck & roll seating option and it looks perfect and is part of what I used on mine. I also changeds the drive train around and used his parts to make it a "squirt" boat.

First off I like your idea about the TROG build. I also think it's great to use all the left overs you have laying around. The hood and sides look shorter than they should be. I'm not sure how hard and fast you're trying to stay with the TROG rule book but I don't think they include a suicide style front suspension. The chassis you're using may be a 1/24th as well as not really being accurate. In the picture it looks as if the body might move forward maybe an 1/8th to 1/4 max. This still wouldn't get you where you need to be for the radiator shell. The grill you have should have a shell that it sits in and that will give you a little length. Some material could be added to the hood to lengthen it also. Yesterday I was watching Barrett-Jackson in Palm Beach on TV. I would see if you could find it on the net or go to their web site and look for the '34 Ford they had in their auction. While it was a sedan body style any pictures of the front end would give you a good idea of how the 1:1 is set up, the one in the auction looked like the radiator shell was laid back a little bit more than a stock one. Another thing to remember, I don't think that TROG requires a hood or I could be wrong. Either way I will follow your build as it looks very interesting.

I followed your build and this is a real clean sharp build. The body and interior color give this Hudson a very elegant look.

Very aggressive looking. Clean looking build.

Very cleanly built. I like the color also.

Looks great. The color combination really fits the car and the time. I like the chassis detailing. Considering the very basic chassis pan on this era of kit it came out very convincing.

I wouldn't have thought of that color for a Corvette, but seeing it I think it will look great especially with your interior color.

I would do a Google search on Hearses and see all of the different configurations. Some may not be that hard to do with a little sheet plastic to cover unwanted windows.

It's a shame to hide this interior inside where know one can really see it.

Raising the floor would require some surgery but it doesn't look like anything you would have trouble doing. Raising the whole bed may be an option depending on how the bed lines follow the lines of the cab. If you don't plan on detailing the inside of the bed and a bed cover could work well with the overall look, just cut a small opening in the bed floor to allow the bag mounts to go up into the bed floor. Than as you mentioned a bed cover would hide everything and keep the lines between the bed and the cab looking stock. Again, great job on the rear suspension and I like the fuel cell mounting. Another option might be to cut a hole in the bed floor to allow the mount to inter the bed floor. The floor of the bed might not be any thicker than the bag mount. This would allow the bag mount to become a design element of the bed floor.

Spring has finally sprung and ideal painting temps have returned. My wife is complaining about the "rattling" sounds coming from the basement and the hum of the air compressor. I'm painting everything I can get my hands on.

I think your "lights" idea is very creative. You had asked for constructive ideas, my offering for what it may be worth. Hiding the batteries in the bed is great. You might even think about a load of lumber for a hiding place. I would have the wire leads exit toward the back of the cab to better hid them. The wires could run between the interior and the body going forward. I like how you have two different types or color of lights. The headlamps look like the newer style blue/white LED headlamps and the grill mounted Fog Lamps have the more yellowish color. This is all very well done and I, and I think others, will look forward to seeing your builds in the future.

I'm very impressed with your rear suspension design . I'm wondering if the upper Air Bag mounts are going to effect how the pick up bed mounts to the frame. Looking at the stock frame and your new frame it appears that the stock frame has the bed mounts level with the frame "kick up" and your modified frame has the Bag mounts on top of the frame. You may have already compensated for this on the bottom side of the Bed.

This looks like a very well designed Service or Taxi vehicle.

Very clean looking and the tire and wheel swap looks perfect for this. Is that a roll bar I see in the interior ?? Was that in the kit or part of your interior upgrades ?