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ShawnS

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About ShawnS

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  • Scale I Build
    1:24

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  • Location
    South OZ
  • Full Name
    Shawn Shirley

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  1. Thanks guys, it was a bit of a patience tester but I really wanted to do this one right and in the end I'm super happy with the result. I used Tamiya tape. One tip I can give you for crisp lines is don't use the edge of the tape as it comes off of the roll. Put a strip of tape on to your cutting mat and use a fresh blade and a steel ruler to cut a new edge on the tape. Cheers ShawnS
  2. Hi guys, This is the Beemax Starion kit with decals by SK decals with my own additional decals to convert it to Bathurst spec and SK decals aluminium rims with my own centres. Other mods include a full re-do of the rollcage, single pipe exhaust, LHD conversion and little bits and pieces here and there. The paint is Tamiya TS 26 white, TS 16 yellow, TS 14 black and the red is a custom mix all shot through my airbrush. Check out the WIP for all of the struggles I faced when I was building this little unit. I detailed the interior with some air jack lines, A control box with toggles and s
  3. Yeah I find that I can't leave Tamiya tape on for any extended period of time and definitely don't leave paint with tape on it in the sun as that will leave those marks. I did find that with Tamiya TS spray paints I can throw a couple of coats of TS13 clear over the top and the paint seems to reset itself as the clear and the paint become one and the tape marks go away.
  4. Is it actually residue or is it an imprint in the paint left over from where the tape was? If it's actually adhesive residue just use a little polishing compound. What paint are you using?
  5. Hi again guys. The Starion build isn't dead yet. Here's where it's at. Most parts have been painted their base colours and are awaiting detail painting except for the body which is painted, polished and ready to go. The paints used for the body were Tamiya TS26 white over TS101 base white with TS14 black and TS16 yellow and the red is a custom TS mix all with TS13 clear over all. Interior is ready for detail paint and assembly. Ditto the chassis, suspension and drive train. I have polished the wheel rims and the centres are paint
  6. Thanks guys, It's not a bad kit, it has great detail and almost perfect proportions it's just that it just needs some finessing here and there. As I said in my opening post the kit has some compromises to reduce the cost of tooling on what may be a one off kit. Although they did announce a rally version too but that seems to have been put aside for the moment. Update... Almost everything has been painted I just need to start the detail painting and assembly. I've got 4 weeks off of work over the xmas break coming up so there is plenty of time for that. There is however one issue that
  7. Hi all I cast the wheels and dash. The mocked up interior is primed and ready for paint. I test fitted the suspension and wheels and noticed that the rear sat too high and the wheels were too far forward in the wheel arches. Both of these things were a result of my own modifications and not an issue with the kit. I trimmed the rear chassis mounting tab and tweaked the front mounting pins and it sorted the wheel location problem out. The rear ride height was a different issue and here is how I fixed it. The rear suspension upright part was too
  8. Hi again guys, thanks for your interest. This update is a bit of a mixed bag so here goes. Work is almost complete on the rollcage just waiting on some decent weather to shoot some primer on it to fix anything that shows up. Now on to the wheels. Made by Simmons wheels. These were mostly used by Australian and New Zealand racing teams in all sorts of sizes and configurations, and were rarely seen on cars outside Aus and NZ so the chances that they will be kitted or even available through aftermarket sources seemed pretty slim, that is until I was browsin
  9. Thanks guys. Just a quick one today. On to some fitment issues. This first pic was taken before I started modifying the interior and it shows that the interior sides are too tall for the body. You can see the black of the interior sides show above the window line, that's the tip of the iceberg because they need to be 1.5 to 2mm below the window line. Sanding down the top of the interior sides isn't an option because the interior door handle sits just below the top of the door panel so I had no choice but to lower the chassis from the body. I added two posts from large Evergree
  10. hi again. While all the glue and putty was curing on the interior I started work on the front bumper and body. The front bumper had 4 massive sink marks and some gaps that need to be dealt with. When test fitting I found there is also an issue with the bumper being slightly wider on one side so I'll attack that later with some sandpaper. One other thing that was going to be an issue for me was the fuel fillers. The kit has a pair of ugly toy-like fuel filler points that mount on the outside of the body and don't look correct in any way whatsoever so I had a hun
  11. Hi Guys. It's been too long since I have done a WIP so here goes. Here is the recently released Aoshima/Beemax Starion kit and the SK decal sheet that I will be using to replicate the car that finished 7th in the 1987 Bathurst 1000. As with any kit, building an Australian spec car out of the box isn't an option so many tweaks will be needed here and there. First impressions of there kit show that there will be some fitment issues and that the kit is full of compromises to make some parts carry over to other kits such as the chassis which is the same that is in the new Beemax Lancer kit.
  12. Hi guys, it's been a while since I have finished anything and after several years in progress I have finally finished these this week . They are the winning cars of the 1986 and 1987 Castrol 500km race at the Sandown circuit here in Australia. The kit is from Aoshima with many mods to bring them up to spec. 1986 winners George Fury and Glenn Seton The 1987 winners George Fury and Terry Shiel Paint is Tamiya TS-26 and a slightly darkened TS-44 shot through an airbrush. The decals were printed by SpotModel and
  13. I will never for the life of me understand why this car has not been kitted in 1:24/25 by one single manufacturer. Surely a car like the Cortina that has such a huge worldwide following and instant recognition would be easy money for a model company. If Ebbro, Beemax or Tamiya released one tomorrow I would order at least 10 of them maybe more.
  14. While some dashboards are easier than others to convert there is no single easy method to do the conversion, scratchbuilding skills are a must. The last dash that I converted to RHD was for a Beemax Volvo. I made 4 resin copies of the kit LHD dash then I cut them up into sections and re-assembled them into one unit. Because of the amount of cutting required there was no way that I could have done it with just the original kit dash. It took a bit of problem solving and two weeks to do and it came out great in the end. I had also previously used a similar method to do a RHD Sierra dash but I did
  15. Judging by some of these pictures, we are truly in a golden age of race car modelling.
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