Ace-Garageguy

Wicked.

Quoting Joe Handley: "Something tells me he wouldn't have anything to worry about during a Zombie Appacolyps........they'd take one look at that abomination and look elseware for brains to eat................" So far I think that's the best response. This is kinda what happens when someone with no clue as to how things actually work, and no interest in finding out, decides to make something similar to something else he's seen. There's a story about some isolated Pacific Islanders many years ago who made an airplane out of rocks and assorted detritus, more-or-less arranged in the shape of an airplane, then wondered why it wouldn't fly. A little of the same thing going on here, I believe. Or maybe WE'RE all the ignorant ones, and this is really a secret-secret car being readied for the also secret-secret Subterranean and Underwater Daytona to Yokahama Race.

Knockout build. Like the tag too.

Yeah, looking really fine so far. That radical chop works great on the '32 3W. Makes me think of a dry lakes car. Replacing what you did with metal makes for a much more convincing model too.

Lots of fine work going on here. All that effort will have a big payoff.

Looking really great. That first primer shot grabbed my attention.

A perfect 10. Love the holes in the frame horns.

Sweet ride, great paint.

Elecrtifying. Really like it a lot.

Like it like it like it like it.

Congratulations. Really fine looking build.

Wow, that is a huge amount of fine work. Dying to see it in paint with wheels.

This thread always makes me smile. Looks like lots of fun.

91blaze is absolutely right. If you buy several items and be sure to buy from a seller who combines shipping, you should come out okay.

Just out of my incorrigible curiosity, why would you paint a car with a product that specifies "clear REQUIRED" and then not use the clear? Help me understand. I may be stupid. Also, I just painted the underside of the seat pan in the Revell kit I mentioned with the Phoenician Yellow. It smells EXACTLY like automotive basecoat, by the way. 4 coats, no orange peel, dry to the touch but tacky if messed with, and exactly like an automotive wet-on-wet basecoat ready for clear. I'm going to clear mine, whenever I use it. Bet I don't have any problems.

I read Gregory's post again and he says he thinks it might be contamination, which i think may also be a possibility after reading David's post again. Plowboy's question about what you washed it with is a good one, David. Some common household washing products don't rinse clean and leave a residue that, I suppose, COULD somehow react with your paint. Because Longbox55 has been able to get away with NOT clearing, as he says, something else might be going on. Since I started doing a final wipe with 91% isopropyl alcohol on real cars, planes and on models, I haven't had any weird problems. I have a Revell '70 Chevelle that's probably the same plastic as your '66 GTO that I'll test on. As Longbox says though, TO GET THE SHINE, it's going to have to be cleared.

Thank you Jason, and for Gregory, Why do you suppose Testors wasted the ink to print "clear required" ? Just to sell more product? I've been painting real cars for over 40 years, off and on, and in my experience, the VAST majority of problems people have with finishes is failing to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Base coats on REAL paint have absolutely NO resistance to anything until they're cleared, cannot be buffed, etc. But just so I'll know for sure, I'm opening my new can of Phoenician Yellow and spraying it on bare plastic to see what happens. Then I'll clear it, tomorrow to see what happens.

Steve: "Um, you DO know the Flintstone 300 body is 100% custom , not just a recast of the stock JoHan body right?" Um, no Steve, I didn't know that. Also, I perhaps stupidly assumed he was looking for a donor that would work, cheap. I also assumed he was smart enough to look for an actual 300 donor before he posted, and maybe decided he didn't want to spend that much money. P.S. I DO NOT intend to seem like a smartarr by the way, it just comes out like that sometimes.....so sorry if I ruffled any feathers.

Wow my66s55, cool site. I'll be researching there for sure. Many thanks. All the answers in one place.

Gold first over the whole top of the car, then candy red over the whole top of the car. Then tape the stripes and shoot a black basecoat just to cover. Untape. GENTLY sand the tape lines. Clear the whole thing, wetsand and polish. Do it right and you'll have no tape ridges. Lots of paint buildup though. If you mess around shooting the gold and then taping it and shooting the black and then untaping and retaping and shooting the candy red, you're going to have a DEVIL of a time getting all the tape lines to "line up", you'll get edge bleeds, and you will most likely disturb the metalflakes in the gold and will be able to see the buggery under the candy red. I do paint real cars too.

Um, I would kinda think if he had the whole Johan 300 kit, he wouldn't have bought a Flintstone body, maybe. Buying the expensive 300 kit kinda doesn't make sense to use as a donor for a Flintstone repop, does it? Quoting Ian: "OK, thats a start. I still need to come up with a doner for the interior...any suggestions?" Ian, I don't have the Superbird interior to look at (I only have the chassis), but I'd look at that first, or the 330. Easy enough to change the seats.

1) I think your vacuum is a little low, and you may be asking your sheet plastic to draw too far. 2) On your second pull, the plastic is sealing itself on the ridges on top of the body and roof and shutting off the vacuum to pull the wrinkles out of the center. Try more heat, more vacuum, or cutting relief slots on your molds to allow the air to escape.

Ummmmm, reading the label is sometimes a good idea. I'm looking at a fresh can of Testors Phoenician Yellow Custom Lacquer 28102, and it says : "2 Part System. Base+Clear Required". Maybe that's your problem. Notice it doesn't asy "clear okay if you feel ilke it", but "clear REQUIRED". I really don't mean to bust your chops David. Sorry if it seems harsh.

Thanks guys. I love rebuilding junk, as you can probably tell. Glad you like the results.

Thank you gentlemen. Glad you're enjoying what I'm trying to do with this old wreck.