Builder04

Thanks man, much appreciated. Had to add a little more putty to the hood today after I shot another coat of primer. Should hopefully have some color on the body this week.

Pepboys

Thanks. I've never built one before, so it took me a few hours to get all the measurements and angles right. But now that I have the idea and concept down, it should get faster and faster.

Little progress on the hood and spoiler today. Got both sanded down and first two coats of primer on. Going to do a little touch up sanding then one more coat of primer should do it before paint. Also, figured out paint scheme today. The yellow tape is where silver will be, and the main body color is going to be a metallic orange. Debating whether or not to add the fender stripes as well. And this car was going to be my first scratch built car, but someone has contacted me about converting it to a drag slot car. But I'll still keep posting progress pictures to show off a little of my beginner skills haha.

Both times I've attempted the two tone, I've waited at least a full 24 hours before putting masking tape on and shooting my second color.

Drag Radial car

I had an '89, and they were tinted 5% black, so I didnt see much either lol. I guess Im just worried that it'll look weird without that window there, if that makes sense.

Im currently working on the new Mustang LX, and I dont want to mess this one up. In the past, Ive tried two toning paint before, using silver as the base coat/secondary color. The problem I run into, is when I peel my masking tape to reveal the "second color" to clear, I notice that tape has pulled up some of the metallic effect from the paint, and it leaves a sort of hazey look to the silver.... Suggestions? I plan to use TS-17 Aluminum Silver or TS-30 Silver Leaf as the base coat/secondary color, and spray TS-53 Deep Metallic Blue or TS-64 Dark Mica Blue as the primary color. Ive bought a few different tapes, and the one I plan on using is Frog Tapes delicate edition, unless thats not the one to use.... Thanks for the help everyone, Im hoping if I can get this problem solved, Ill be able to start painting a whole lot more.

Started building the new Mustang this evening. As you can see it has a 6" hood, spoiler, both scratch built, and my first time at that. I have some putty work to do on the hood, but fingers crossed I continue to take my time so I don't mess up. I was also thinking of filling the quarter windows (circled) and smoothing it out so it looks as there was never a window there.... Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions? Thanks guys.

Yeah, the guy who runs the plastics dept swears by it, so he keeps plenty in stock. I've never used dupicolor over other brands paints, only over dupicolor paint. And the last time I used it, it layed on smooth, yet foggy, but dried crystal clear.

I have a half dozen Testors One Coat clears, but the Mr Clear is readily available at my local hobby shop, maybe I'll try that. Either way, I really appreciate the help. Maybe after this long weekend I'll post some pics of the body, see what you guys think.

Yeah, I know that's been discontinued for a while, at least in the states it is. The orange peel is minimal, so it won't look as bad as I may be making it seem. I have the Testors Wet Look clear, I'll try that, then polish it out.

Hi all I recently sprayed a dart body using a Tamiya rattle can and I have a little issue. After about three days of sitting and gassing out, I've noticed the roof has some slight orange peel developed on it. Here is what my process was: Few coats of primer 1000 grit wet sand primer Wash body, then dry Light color coat Medium color coat, followed by another medium coat No clear as of yet I normally shoot the Testors One Coat and have been getting great results from it, and this is the first time ever shooting Tamiya paint. So what are my options to fix this? It's a Mica paint, so there is pearl/metallic flake in it, so I'm guessing color sanding without reshooting color is out of the question? Polishing? Should I clear the car, and if so, which rattle can clear would be the best? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Great advise guys, so helpful

Thanks for the help. I actually end up wet sanding the entire body with 4000 and shot some De Ja Blue over it, that was the original plan but I really like that Blazin Black. The 4000 was more than enough to get rid of the little peel effect there was. Like I said, it wasnt much at all, barely noticable. And I did set the can in warm water before hand, but I think the issue was I was too far away while spraying. I was trying something different someone said had worked for them in the past, but it didnt work for me to well lol. Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. Definetly going to start trying out different things on scrap trees and bodies, see what techniques work and which dont.

So I sprayed a body a few days ago using the Testors One Coat rattle can and it has a little bit of an orange peel effect going on in a few areas. Its nothing major, to be honest its not very noticable at all, but I try to be as much as a perfectionist as I can be with the material/tools Im working with. The color is Blazing Black which has metalic in the paint, so would wet sanding be an issue even if I used a finer grit sand paper? The color came out nice and even, so I dont want to disrupt the base coat before I clear. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I sprayed the bodies main color today, came out looking great by itself. Im assuming I should let the model air out for a day or two before handling to put the decals on??

And I need to know how to move to the How Do I.... section. Much apologies guys.

So Ive been out of the modeling world for a while, and I have a question regarding clearcoats mainly. Ive done the searching through the forums so please nobody yell at me for asking these questions if they have been discussed before. Im currently starting a build, and Ive narrowed down the main body color to the Testors One Coat Laquer Blazing Black. I also purchased the Testors One Coat Wet Look Clear to go along with it. So heres are the questions I have: Any tips or tricks to spraying these? Light coats? Heavy coats? How does the clear treat not only the Revell decals, but also the Fred Cadys or Slixx decals? Im currently building the '66 Penske Vette, but throwing a drag racing twist to it. I removed the door handles, shaved and filled the gas tank inlet hole, removed the roof and trunk center body line, removed the front headlight pins, and primered the car. I know it may not seem like a ton of work so far, but I would hate to get the main color or clear coat on it and have it go south. Id toss the kit in the body and move on to something else. I obviously dont want to do that though. Im not building for shows or anything, just something to keep myself busy at times. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.