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  1. Well, as you can tell, I'm a bit of a Chevelle guy. The 68 being my favorite body style. I loved the kit and wanted to get a second one. I built it to look like the car I would want to have. SAM_1390 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1391 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1392 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  2. Started working on this one last week. I got as far as trying to put the front wheels on when I thought to myself, "these plastic pins are a pain. Plus, that engine doesn't look at all good." I went to my model supply cabinet and broke out an AMT 68/69 RR/GTX kit for the frame. I raided a Revell 68 Charger for the engine and am using a B-N-L resin torque flight tranny for the build. How does that AMT frame fit you ask? Very well thank you. I just had to do some minor sanding on the radiator support and firewall to get them to fit properly. I selected the Keystone mags from the Revell 68 Charger kit and the redline tires from the new 68 GTO kit. I am also using the rear axle from the Charger kit since it looks better than what AMT gives us in the 68/69 kits. I still have to play with the location of the rear axle so the wheelbase is right, but here is how it looks right now. Basic engine is done, just needs all the accessories glued on it. Here is how it looks inside the engine compartment. Chrome valve covers are from the Revell 68 Dodge Dart kit. Thanks for looking.
  3. I had originally gotten the kit to build as a convertible. However, I quickly learned that Reliable Resin isn't exactly reliable, but more like a scam. So I built it the way I wanted to build my other one the first time around. The 68 Firebird was one of the first kits I ever bought. SAM_0610 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0611 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0612 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0613 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0614 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  4. At least I have good front and rear bumpers and a hood for the other one I got recently. This one may turn into a custom because of the dead frame, dead glass, and burn mark on the body. We will see if the old paint comes off or not. Thanks for looking, all comments welcomed.
  5. This model is the first full resin body conversion I have ever attempted. It is a 1968 Chevelle SS casted by Ed Fluck of Drag City Castings http://www.dragcitycasting.com . It was pretty easy to work with, which is nice, since I do not have any body work skills. I simply removed the flashing and thinned areas as needed. A couple of donor kits were used in this build. The first was an AMT 68 El Camino. From that I took the windshield, dash, steering wheel, front seats and console. The interior tub and complete chassis were donated by an AMT 69 Olds 442. It has a very detailed chassis with multi-piece suspension and working steering. Floor pan-wise, it took very minor trimming to fit nicely under the Chevelle body. The rear glass is from a 69 Chevelle. I originally wanted to do it up as a Yenko Super Chevy. However, after doing some research I found out that Yenko did not modify any Chevelles in 1968. Besides that, the Drag City Castings “Stinger” hood wouldn’t accept the YSC decal format. Since I had already purchased the Yenko decal set from Keith Marks http://public.fotki.com/mofobow/chevy/chevelle/ I scanned them in my PC and modified the side stripes to read “SS 396”. The hood decal artwork I designed from scratch in MS Paint as a .bmp. I used my inkjet printer and Testors decal paper to produce them. The yellow color, which I like to refer as “Magazine Cover Yellow”, is some craft store rattle can my wife got awhile back. The paint and decals are clear coated with Future. As you can obviously see, I used BMF as there is a lot of trim. If I had to do it over I might have added a black vinyl top. The wheels are multi-piece Corvette rally wheels that have been widened in the rear. I also widened the rear tires and lettered them with a Gelly Roll pen. The exhaust tips are nickel plated ‘crimp’ tubes (for RC planes) I picked up at my LHS. The big block Chevy engine came from the parts box and is a basic High Performance 4-BBL with ribbed valve covers. The wired distributor I made myself from scratch. The K&N air cleaner is high enough to be visible in the hood scoop opening. The front and rear bumpers including red tail light lenses are Modelhaus items http://www.modelhaus.com .
  6. To start with, this was a TOTAL parts-box build. I do not have much of a parts box to begin with. All of the spare parts I own (except for wheels and tires) would fit into two model boxes. Any way, I was trying to imagine a build that would be more than a Hot Wheels paint scheme on a box stock kit. On the other hand I do not have the talent to fabricate one of the wild creations Hot Wheels has produced over the years. I needed something that would look cool AND, be within my skills as a builder. One day, I went to sit on the couch and my youngest son Keenan had left one of his Hot Wheels on the seat. I picked it up, looked at it and the proverbial light bulb went on in my head. It was a customized 68 El Camino with a wing and engine in the bed. I then remembered that I had an orphaned 68 El Camino body left over from a plan of using its kit to build a resin 70 El Camino. I now had a starting point. My little boy's toy car had an ugly orange, blue and black paint scheme that I did not wish to duplicate. So… I searched the internet for other versions of the car and found one I liked. The patriotic red white and blue, tickled my fancy. I found a chrome, blown, Top Fuel engine that came as a toss-in to a 'lot' of wheels I had bought on ebay. The parts I actually needed to fabricate were the unique hood scoop and the “bundle of snakes” exhaust headers. I made the scoop from part of a VTEC engine, two pieces of rectangular evergreen and cut-down tail-light buckets from a Lamborghini Countach. I tried making the headers from lead solder but the scale was not right. So, I then tried 12 ga. wire and while stiff, it worked out OK. I painted all but the actual chrome pieces with “chrome” paint. The wing is also from the deceased Countach kit but has the center point sanded away. The struts are rectangular evergreen which matched the scale of the Hot Wheel car struts perfectly. The interior was next. I couldn’t use the El Camino interior or windows as those parts are spoken for in the previously mentioned 70 El Camino build. I had an old junker 72 GTO that came with built model 'lot' I purchased on ebay. As it turns out, once the rear seats were cut out, it mated perfectly with the body. The windows were from the same GTO and were surprisingly scratch-free. I took a tip to tint windows by using food coloring and Future floor wax. I found you have to get it really dark in the cup to get light blue on the glass. The amazing thing was, with a little effort they actually came out evenly tinted. The front bumper wasn’t need by the 70 Elky so I was OK there. The 68 rear bumper I wanted for the 70, but it is actually a bit too wide for my resin body so I used it here instead. The wheels are some “bling” low profile 23s that I was planning on selling on ebay. They are five spoke with ridges down the center of each spoke. I meticulously hand painted the ridges to simulate the 10 spoke wheels in the picture. I reversed the disc brakes and painted them black to act as background. The suspension was the next challenge. I needed to really raise the body without looking hokey but, I had no actual chassis to start with. I also wanted to go with as much chrome as I could as that is what many Hot Wheels have. The rear axle and ladder bars are from the Li’l Gasser kit which I parted out long ago. All I needed to add was a cross member to attach the front of the ladder bars to. I used a section of chrome driveshaft which is connected to semi-truck transfer case to assist in the drivetrain’s believability. The front suspension consists of the front subframe from a 62 Catalina, the extended springs/shocks from a 70 Monte Carlo lowrider, and the dropped buggy axle and wishbones from an unknown source. I did need to add a second cross member for the 3-link wishbones. To attach them, I used leaf spring extension shackles turned sideways from a 70 GTX. They had the holes I needed to locate the pins of the wishbones. That pretty much covers the build. The biggest challenge of all, was how to do the graphics. Obviously, they cannot be purchased, as no one has made anything even remotely close to these. Some people have the skill to mask and paint on the stars and flames but I am not one of them. So, I decided on water slide decals, but how to do it? Well, I took the body and covered the hood and sides with wide masking tape. I then drew the flames freehand using Ultra fine point markers. They were pretty shaky as the tape is kinda bumpy to draw on. I then peeled the tape and stuck it to some paper then scanned it into my computer. I then spent HOURS AND HOURS manipulating the scanned jpeg to change it to ONE red and ONE blue. After that was done, I didn’t like how misshapen the curves of the flames were. So then I had to go back and redraw all the edges in MS Paint with the line tool and then fill in all the spaces pixel by (tedious) pixel. Fortunately one of my other programs has a flip/invert tool so I only needed to do one side and half of the hood. OK, so now it is in the computer but does it fit? Decal paper is spendy enough such that I would not want to waste it. So, I printed it on plain paper first. I then did Scotch tape mock ups until I felt the fit of the body curves was close enough. One of the hardest parts was the fact that the hood flames flow continuously onto the sides of the fenders. That made for a heck of a precision alignment. The graphics run continuously from the center of the hood, over the hood bulges, over the fender crease and down to the wheel wells and rocker trim. All this, while also needing to line up the front edges of the headlight-brows to the flame-licks just above the sides of the tail lights. The Hot Wheels logos were simply snagged from their website and pasted onto the finished graphics. To obtain maximum flexibility, I only clear coated the sheet once. I hoped that would seal them well enough to not allow the ink to run when wet. I got lucky. The amazing thing was they laid down without any tears or fold overs. I am quite pleased with the result.
  7. I have always felt that Revell’s 1968 and 1969 Corvette kits captured the look and feel of that C3 body style the best. My only beef with this kit is that the rear window is incorrect. But I don’t feel the need to correct all of them. Maybe just the replicas of my father’s car. Over the years, they have been offered in many different variations. The 68 has been offered as a convertible only. A couple times with the “rare” small block hood. Oddly, I never cared much for the big block 427 hood. I did like the L88 hood much better. I may be biased because my father has an aftermarket L88 hood on his 69 Corvette. Here is an assortment of just some of the issues of these cars. It is not by any means all of them. Since the 68 was only offered as a convertible on 69 only offered as a hardtop, I will be swapping parts from one to the other to make the missing links. The 68 hardtop is currently in prime at work. And may be in paint by tomorrow night. 69 convertible is also there and will probably be in prime tomorrow. Two of the cars are earmarked to replicate my father‘s car. The first one will be a medium blue metallic with a small block hood in place, and the rally wheels that came with it. The second one will have the L88 hood and American Racing Vector wheels that are currently on his car. All in all, there should be at least six builds in this thread along. Probably more! Lord knows I have enough kits. Can anybody really say that? Anyway, here is four of the first six. Correcting the small block hood was a bit of a challenge to make correct, or at least to my standards. I bought one off of eBay that somebody had resin cast a few years ago. To say the least it was horrible. For some unknown reason they sanded down the front and rear of it. It fits like garbage. And that’s being kind. The hood out of the box has a depression in the middle of the insulation on the underside. This was so you could cut out a giant rectangle for a blower to stick through the hood. On a convertible? Really? Is that a thing? I know, I’ve seen it. But it looks real dangerous! Anyway, the seller made a halfhearted attempt to fill that area but it was still smooth. So I did my best to fill that area with a section from an extra hood so that it would have the insulation texture. I don’t think it came out too bad. So I made a mold and cast more of them in resin. I resisted the urge to sand down the front and back of them like the other guy did! LOL! I think it came out pretty well! That’s it so far. I’ll take some more pictures of the other two at work tomorrow. Questions and comments always welcome good or bad!
  8. Question: I see a 1968 Chevrolet pickup promo for sale, $110 asking price. It has a nasty crack in a bed side, missing fender logos and gas cap (I can make a gas cap). I saw a nice one for $185 at a model show. Would the AMT bed fit ok on this? Is the price out of line?
  9. here it is everybody. it is a revel 1968 dodge dart GSS painted Tamiya chrome silver. it has a wired distributer and the trim is the Molotow crome pen. it didn't turn out as good as I wanted but oh well its all a learning experience and the next one will be better. what do you think?
  10. After finishing the Buick GSX, I was eager to start on the brand new 1968 Chevelle from Revell. Almost 20 years ago I painted a couple cars that were to replicate a pair of Baldwin Motion cars sold ordered by Roberto Schneider. The Camaro cost $9,300 and the Chevelle was over $7,000! The Chevelle was used by Mr. Schneider to flat tow the Camaro to Texas and eventually into Mexico. I’ve always wanted to build the pair in towing configuration and was well on my way when a couple problems arose with the Chevelle. #1 was the tail lights. They are very inaccurate. #2 was, the stipe I laid down was much narrower on the hood than the rest of the car. This fustration sidelined the project for a long time. After realizing that the new Revell Chevelle will probably be released as a 1969 down the road, I decided to continue to wait on this project. In the meantime, my love for Motion cars steered me towards what I think is the “prototype” Baldwin Motion Phase III Chevelle. One reason I believe it is the prototype is the hood. It’s the only one I have seen with Corvette scoop with no stinger portion on top of the Chevelle SS hood! The “production” fiberglass hoods were the full stinger on a flat Chevelle hood. I spoke with Joel Rosen a couple weeks ago but didn’t ask him about the 68. I have an email in to him to see if my suspicions are correct. In the meantime I started getting stuff together for this project. And here is where I’m at. The stinger scoop is from the 1967 Nickey Camaro, side exhaust is from the 1969 Motion Camaro and the wheels are from EBay. Any questions and comments are welcome!
  11. From a short-lived British T.V. programme Colour Me Pop , the Small Faces performing tracks off of Ogden's Nut Gone Flake (1968) , which was their last album .
  12. Hello all! This is one of my first model car builds in a while, mainly because school is out and summer is here. So now I have more time to grow my skills in this wonderful hobby. Here it is so far, I'm still working on the chassis and little things here and there. I decided to make this a sleek and custom Corvette. I want to use the taillight pieces below, which may look like they are from a Corvette, but no. They are from a '58 Ford Thunderbird. A custom spice! This is the first model car I've done with a flat-color interior. All of my previous builds have gloss black interiors, which I will admit is not very realistic. That's all the pictures I have for now. I will gladly post more in this thread as I progress through this build. Thanks for viewing!
  13. This was the third kit I've worked on since I've gotten back into the hobby. I've been away from building for 15 years. This kit went together rather well. I cannot say there was much of a problem. The paint is Duplicolor MC201 Metalcast Anodized Blue with a Duplicolor Plymouth silver base. As I work more and more, looking back I should have rubbed out the orange peel. I'm learning... Thanks for looking
  14. Hello, I am new to the forum! That being said, I thought I would share my recent car project. My stepdad owns a 1968 dodge coronet 440 with a 318 cubic inch engine. So I decided to make a scale model of it. I shaved the R/T badges from the 1968 R/T body I found online. Used painted masking tape for the black vinyl top. I also had to modify the engine mounts for the smaller engine to fit with the roadrunner frame. I have added a picture of the actual car for comparison. Parts Used: 1968 MPC Dodge Coronet R/T Body 1975 MPC Chrysler 318 c.i. Engine AMT Torque Thrust wheels w/ Firestone Tires 1/25 scale Edelbrock Valve Covers AMT 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner donor kit for chassis, frame, interior Bare Metal Foil Plastruct Scale Lettering Paints Used: Model Master Dark Bronze Metallic Lacquer Gravity Colors White Surface Primer Gravity Colors 3-part Clear Coat Gravity Colors Anthracite Black
  15. Hi all. Well this is been a slow ongoing model build. I finally got the body sprayed and just yesterday I clear coated it. This is the first time I've gone this this level of spraying using a Badger air brush. These pix are before clear coat. The undercarriage is based on some pre undercoated Shelby bodies I've seen on the web. They have that little over spray on them which I thought was cool to try. Next step is wet sanding/compounding the final clear coat. Really want to see if I can make this thing shine!
  16. Hi all, I've been working on a '68 Shelby Mustang for about 1 year now. Trying to get back into it from a long time not building. I wanted to really step up my game with an air brush. I just finished with the color and now I'm going to be going to the clear coating. I looked up Shelby Mustangs and they had this cool "over spray" on bottom of car when it was not undercoated. So I went the red undercarriage and did a little overspray for the bottom. Haven't done much else yet.
  17. Help! I'm trying to finish up Revell's '68 Dodge Charger R/T "special edition", but the front stance is too high. I'm about to pull it apart, but wondered if anyone else had this issue?
  18. Built many years ago from the Mission Impossible kit
  19. My latest is a black 1968 Mustang GT-500 Drag car. It’s an older AMT kit and I found it to be a bit challenging. It took me about 2 months to finish this one as I put it down many times because it frustrated me. I made the drag version of the car and put the larger engine in it. I could never get the drag exhaust to fit properly and since I had worked on the car for so long and was so far along I simply did not put an exhaust on it in favor of tossing the entire model in the trash. The sponsor stickers on the side came from other kits, such as the AMT Lowboy and the Revell Peterbilt 359 Conventional. I found the gold strips in an old model kit of the Titanic that my father gave me a long time ago. I have a trailer that I have customized that the car will go on and be towed around by a modified ’65 Chevy I am currently working on. Hopefully I will have that done soon and you guys can get a look at the entire package.
  20. Hello. Anyone know what would be a good donor for a 1968 Dodge Coronet R/T? Mostly for chassis,interior and glass. How would the 68 AMT Road Runner be? Thanks Tommy
  21. Just completed! SS badging from the Monte Carlo SS kit... (hard to see) Trim - Gloss Black, Body - Inca Gold, Top - Black Vinyl... Hood stripes - '69 Camaro... "CHEVROLET" lettering - Chevy Pickup kit....
  22. Call this one done. I could not find a outside mirror for it,but at least 7 rear view mirrors,typical. This one has the rear view mirror molded into the window AMT 68 Camaro Z28,orange car on box,tons of flash and little detail. VCG Resin brake booster. AMT 67 Impala engine.transmission heater hoses and mid-muffler forward exhaust. Shorten drive axle. Tamiya TS30 base and TS13 clear. Stock rallye wheels with Pegasus alu sleeves. Rubber alternator/fan belt cut from rubber sheet i got from Mike DeLuco. Engine decal from VCG Resin and Slixx. Bent some chrome sprue over a candle to try make the exhaust a little fatter. Here are some pictures, Thanks for looking.
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