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  1. Finished this morning a pretty basic kit with some decent detail,color is Tamiya Bright Red.Wheels from the Aoshima Huracan,decals went on well despite being over 30 years old.Was aiming for a different look if the kit was new to the supercar scene. A few more outdoor pictures
  2. Hi folks, I'd like to start a WIP on this project. It's about this Fujimi kit: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/966180-fujimi-12450-porsche-911-carrera-3-8-rs Basically, I have started this kit already in May 2017. But gradually finding out about it's numerous shortcomings (more about that later), I put it aside for the time being. Some days ago, after finishing the Porsche 928 S, I opened the kit's box again and it clicked! So I decided to proceed with it. The first step I did last year already, is that I filled the panels of the sunroof. No Porsche RS ever came with a sunroof! I used styrene melted in glue for filling back then. I used this instead of regular filler because I heard that glue can help to prevent the appearance of ghostlines. Someday soon, we'll see if that's true... It does not look too nice but the surface is even and smooth as glass. There are quite a lot of aftermarket parts that I will use on this one. Nearly all of them are coming from Scale Production (SP), a German specialist exactly for these kind of things. Here are the parts: The 964 RS model comes with a different kind of rear bumper but the Fujimi kit has the regular Carrera one. So I cut that out and replaced it with a resin bumper part from SP: It took some sanding and filling with Plasti-Zap CA, but it worked out okay. The big rear wing has been fixed at this stage too: As can be seen, the wing needed filling as it's one part with the engine cover. On the lower side just aswell as the upper side: A little mock-up with the wing "board" fixed. I love that view! The Fujimi kit comes with molded-on door handles like this: Proxxon time! I also drilled 2 holes for the separate SP door handles to be fixed in later on: Like that: That's all for now. I hope you like my progress.
  3. I would like to share my recently completed Fujimi Ferrari F355. Overall, not the greatest kit ever produced. The fit of the side scoop inserts and the panel on the rear of the car was not good. A lot of work was needed to make them presentable. The glass flat out sucked, poorly molded and the fit of some pieces was enough to make you want to leave them off. The interior is for a 348 and not a F355. The window trim molded to the body is incorrect for a F355. However, at the end of the day it makes a nice shelf model if you take your time and put the work into it. I have added a link to the WIP thread. Here are some bullet points of the build. I hope you like it! Thanks for looking! Painted in OPI "Chopstix and Stones" fingernail polish. Cleared with Tamiya TS Clear Blue Splash Paints Interior Tan Photo-Etch from Acu-Stion Badges from T2M
  4. Next up on my hobby bench is Fujimi's Ferrari F355 Berlinetta. I picked this kit up at a model contest a year or so ago. The kit does not get rave reviews. I am no expert on these cars but from what I have read Fujimi used many parts from their prior kit, the Ferrari 348. Indeed, several of the sprues are labeled "Ferrari 348"...lol. As I understand it the interior in this F355 kit is really the 348's interior. The chassis may be shared as well. Don't put any of this in stone but I believe I am pretty close with my statements. All of this is quite OK with me as I am really just wanting a nice shelf model. Let's start with some of the basic information regarding the build. I wanted this F355 to be done in a dark blue and I wanted to paint it with some fingernail polish that I had on hand, (no pun intended). I was going to build it box stock but when I looked over the kit I found that the decals were shot. Also, you cannot beat PE scripts and badges for realism. I had a buddy who was willing to part with an Acu-Stion PE set and some rare T2M badges. The only problem is that both sets are designed for the Challenge car so some of the items will not work on the Berlinetta. Let's look at what I have to work with. This is the color that I aim shooting for. I know that I can probably buy an exact match but I really wanted to paint it with the OPI fingernail polish that I have. I started with the body work. I highlight seam lines with a Sharpie. I also rescribed all panel lines. The side scoops are separate pieces and a real PITA to install and make look good. Honestly, I got them to about 90-95% and finally gave up. Big seams in a tiny space. Filling and sanding were a nightmare. I seriously doubt that anyone will even notice the less than 100% perfect finish on them. Along with the side scoops, the rear spoiler piece did not fit even remotely properly. More big gaps. I really questioned whether or not I wanted to build this thing. Next update will be covering the thinning and shooting the beautiful OPI fingernail polish.
  5. Picture the scene. It's the mid-1970s. I'm about 3 or 4 years old and I'm playing with toy cars with my older brother. "What car is that?" I ask pointing at a red bullet shaped toy. My Brother goes on to explain its a Ferrari, and from that moment on the Boxer shape was embedded in my mind as what a Ferrari looks like. I absolutely loved that shape when I was a kid and grew up learning all about the car. I also learned that the initials 'BB' stood for Berlinetta Boxer, so imagine my surprise when I learnt that wasn't quite right! There are numerous articles online, including one from the official Ferrari magazine stating otherwise. This quote comes from Road & Track; But there's always been something puzzling about that name. In Ferrari parlance, "Berlinetta" usually means a front-engine car, which this is not. And a "boxer" engine, while still horizontally opposed, uses an individual crank journal for each piston; the 365 GT4 BB's motor has pairs of pistons sharing a common crank journal, making it, technically, a "flat 12" rather than a "boxer 12." As it turns out, the Berlinetta Boxer—"BB" for short—isn't a berlinetta or a boxer at all. The name was a clandestine reference to French model, actress, singer, dancer, animal-rights activist, and all around pop culture icon Brigitte Bardot. When Fujimi released the 512BB I was excited. When they also released the 512BBi and the 365GT4BB, my mind was blown. Of course, I bought all three. A quick guide for those not familiar with the Boxer trilogy... First generation. Ferrari 365 GT4BB (manufactured 1973 - 1976) Second generation. Ferrari 512BB (manufactured 1976 - 1981) Third generation. Ferrari 512BBi (manufactured 1981 - 1984) But which one to build first? First impressions of the kits were very positive, but the wheels looked wrong - very wrong! I purchased a PE set for the 512BBi version and hoped PE sets would be released for the other two. I wished some better wheels would become available, and I waited. These three kits must have been in my stash for over 10 years now, and I'm not waiting any longer. Because I can't decide which one to build, I'm going to build all three simultaneously! My first ever triple build. The first hurdle to cross is the wheels. The wheel and tyre package included in all three kits is the same. Fujimi have included the correct size 15" tyres, but wheels that would look more at home on a 360 Modena. They seem to be 19" and look wrong to my eyes. First I found what I needed on Shapeways https://www.shapeways.com/product/6VWN4AT66/1-24-ferrari-512bb-wheels But then I found a 3D .stl file available online for free download here; https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/architecture/ferrari-512-bb-rim-x-fujimi-1-24th-model I sent the .stl files to a printer and here is his first attempt of printing. The layer thickness was too big. Finally we settled on 0.05mm and here's the results. At the top we have the kit supplied wheels. They're massive! Under that are a set of 5 spokes form Fujimi's Ferrari Daytona Enthusiast kit. They aren't bad, and I did strongly consider using them at one point. Below that are the three sets of printed wheels, which I'm super happy with. At the bottom is a set of tyres from the Fujimi Boxer kit. All three kits use the same tyres. Note that the resin printed wheels have a deeper dish for the rear. The Daytona wheels at the top are the same for the front and the rear. Here they are pressed into the tyres. I'm happy with this. More than happy! Now there's nothing stopping me from cracking on. Building three at once should be like a production line for the chassis and suspension. all the colours for these parts will be the same (well, mostly). Much of the interior is the same on all three. Of course the bodies have their subtle differences and they will all be a different colour. Thanks for watching.
  6. Anyone have any enthusiast kits they'd like to off load?
  7. Hi folks, this is a build I finished just this week. A rather easy side project to relax while taking a break from my lengthful work on the Rothman's Porsche 956. It's basically a simple curbside kit by Fujimi that was unnecessarily complicated by fitting issues on the front and rear body parts. It took quite some glueing, filling and sanding to make the body properly hold those parts. As a consequence, the original panel lines on those parts - the black ones which are characteristic of the 928 - got lost. I used thin stripes of black 3M laser plotter foil to re-created those lines. The rims originally included in the kit - those in the "telephone dial design" - have not been used because they looked somewhat chunky. And those rims have mainly been used on the series 1 Porsche 928, most of the 928 S had the so-called "Gullydeckel"-rims. So I used those wheels from the Fujimi 928 S4 kit instead. Btw, "Gullydeckel" is the German word for manhole cover and if you take a look at the following image of a German manhole cover, you will probably get the point. Now to some model images, hope you like them. A meet among brothers...
  8. Hey, everyone! I thought i hadnt finished any builds in 2021, but then i remembered my Fujimi Aventador Miura edition...hope you like it! God bless!!
  9. This project evoked a lot of memories for me. This is a model of one of my favorite cars to own and drive. I had a lot of adventures with this one that included 4 class championships in SCCA Solo II competition. I modeled this car the way I would have wanted to keep it, if I still owned it. Fixed all the rust, dents, scrapes and gave it a nice shiny coat of paint using Mr Color Character Red with 2k clear. Had to scratch build the rear wing as no model existed of it. Fujimi supplied the aftermarket BBS wheels and tires I had fitted to the car. Had to use two Fujimi kits and there were enough parts to complete the 1985 Supercharged version. Mine was a 1988 as that was the only year with t-tops. Find the rest of the description under the pictures. Thanks for looking. My 1988 Toyota MR2 just before I sold it. Note the rust under the rear. There was a lot more under the unibody and it was nearing the end of its useful life.....sigh!!! The model...all nice and cleaned up and shiny. The other MR2, 1985 vintage and supercharged plus a rear veiw mine. The Penna plate came out of the spares box. It was the only one. This one is painted in Testors laquer #1831 Fiery Orange. The 1/64 diecast was also painted and these two match the 1/20 version in the next pic. My collection of MR2's. Most of these kits are Fujimi. Four MK I's, three MK II's and an MR3 Rear wing detail. I was fortunate enough to have taken several detail shots of this before the car was sold. There was still a pile of discarded parts that didn't look right until I was happy. Such is the way with scratch building. I now have two cars in my collection that I owned the real thing of. Both were a blast to won and drive. Just sorry they are gone but I will always have these and the memories.
  10. Decided to do another two for one project with these two Fujimi 1/24 Ford GT40's. |The white one represents the Ford France entry to the 1967 Targa Florio. It was painted with Tamiya TS-7 Racing white. The blue Gulf sponsered car is the 1968 Lemans entry. It is painted a custom mix blue and orange. This was done to match an existing diecast in my collection. See the picture caption for a better description of the paint. A sister car to this one won the Lemans event in 1968. Both kits had many parts in common as well as the order of assembly so it made sense to do them at the same time. Keeping the variations seperate was a little bit of a problem but in the end it saved time and got both done. Thanks for looking. I added seat bestblets robbing the PE hardware from tow other Fujimi kits. The belts are 2mm silk thread. About those seat rivets...several methods of painting them were tried and I finally wound up hand painting all of them and the touching them back up with and India ink pen. It took awhile. Both kits went together very well but the rear decks still had to be pinned on to stay in place. The graphics on this car were hand painted rather than using the kit decals. The hood roundel is actually vinyl tape cut with a compass. The strip would have shown through the decal. The black lines on the graphics are also vinyl tape cut down and applied seperately. Rear end veiw show the wider bodywork on the Gulf car. This was to cover the wider tires used at the time. The stripes showed through the white roundels. These strips had to be carefully cut and peeled away when the roundels were applied. The hood was the most tedious and the decals also had to fit down into one of the vents. It took four different colors to mix the blue and I fear I onl;y got it close enough. The orange matched up much easier. Those wheels were fun to mask and spray. Note the extra lighting need for night time racing at Lemans. The Diecast is a fairly rare 1/20 Revell. Nicely detailed with opening doors and engine cover. It also has a detailed engine and the model is mostly curbside.
  11. First off, I'm sorry for the totally ridiculous number of photos and for the WIP images in there. I had a hard time paring it down from over a hundred, so this is progress for me. I was really experimenting with the taking of the pictures in addition to the build. And my work progress wasn't too interesting or anything you hadn't seen before so I didn't think it really deserved its own thread. Sorry, again - I'll try to be more selective next time. A link to some kind of album is probably better. But it's my first kit in 20-odd years so let me have this one. Here it is, the godawful boring Toyota Crown Turbo Super Saloon of 1980. Thought it might be fun to build something I would never look at twice. Like a blank canvas for my screwups. Also, I spent some time in Japan in my 20's and have a soft spot for their car culture over there. I think it did something to me, the day a friend took me to see a Toyota 2000GT parked outside at a dealer just on the side of the road next to a BMW Glas 1300, an Isuzu 117, a Delta Integrale, and a line of vintage Skylines. You don't just park stuff like that on the sidewalk. But they do there. Because there is nowhere else. WasabiCars and Speedhunters are also great sources of inspiration. Reference car and inspiration. Note the custom panel between the taillights on the red car and the relocated plate. Just to be extra low. Checking the stance, trying out colors. Leaving the stock kit wheels on the sedan. For now. This was a big deal for me - cutting out a sunroof and getting the 'glass' to sort of fit. Headlight cups (made for real bulbs) looked terrible behind the lenses...something was needed. Also tried to do the thin chrome side trim with masking and a Molotow pen...didn't quite work. BMF better. Flashcube innards make great headlight reflector cups. Thanks 1970's! The results: Intro to Scratchbuilding. Seatbelt buckles, speaker bodies and JDM-style seat covers made from dollhouse curtains. Wildly out of scale unfortunately but this model is all about experimentation. I actually found an old white handkerchief with the perfect in-scale material. I may change it one day. I thought I was done with the interior... Until I saw this car for sale in Japan with my seat covers and a Nardi wheel. Kind of silly on this car but it looked so good I had to try and make one. The spokes and hub you can buy... But man, that black stripe is thin in 1/24 scale. 1st attempt with Tamiya yellow tape, 2nd attempt on the right with Tamiya white tape. And a center hub made from a snippet of blue window tint and several drops of clearcoat built up. Ok, finally, the car out in the open...a little dusty and polleny outside. Left the sunroof removable after I couldn't decide what position to glue it in. The only other piece of 'scratchbuilding' on the car, if you can call it that: rain visors made from 3mm nickel plated battery connector strips. I have a sack of like 100 if anyone needs some! In all her brownness. Custom Toyota City license plate I had printed. 3150 means "Best" in phonetic numbers. Custom vintage TOSCO Racing Equipment decal. For +5hp! In front of a little wall I made from a clipboard and crimped aluminum sheets. Sprayed bleach on them and left them in the sun for weathering. Actually corroded little holes! Tsurikawa (subway strap handle) and one of the hardest parts of the build - tiny strips of BMF along the edges of the fenders. Window tint is actual brown automotive tint film but very thin. One of my goals of this build was to be able to read "TURBO" on the grille. For obvious reasons. Because TURBO! The Crown badge was tougher. The black is Ceramcote acrylic. Too flat maybe. Look at that sweet digital display. Need something better for door gaps but I really need to get good at scribing deeper panel gaps. I tried, almost ruined everything, afraid to try again. I don't care. I like my chicken-wire-sized lace seat covers. Could not figure out how to glue the mirrors on the wings. Ended up drilling the posts and the fender and inserting thin paper clip clippings. Now they're adjustable, too. Experimenting with different focal lengths on my old digital camera. Used the smallest aperture to reduce blurring (increase depth of field) to make it look less a miniature. This one's wide-angle for bigness. And I know it's getting excessive but I had to play around with studio-style shots. If you've made it this far - here's a side view! Tried to make it look heavy on its wheels - not slammed with the rims tucked up under the fenders like on the box. Cold light from one side, warm from the other. Funky reflections... Mmm, those rain visors. I couldn't figure out how to make or attach them. I don't even know what they're glued to, maybe the window? Final detail. Fujimi's standard one-piece underside for a bunch of their sedans. Did a little weathering, a little masking. Could've done fender liners or painted the inner body black. My little photo setup, if anyone's curious. 3 crappy desk lamps, two gooseneck clips, lots of paper and a couple glass vases because they were within reach. And that's my brown car. Sorry again.
  12. McLaren, famous for their incredible success in Formula 1, designed the MP4-12C which used a carbon fibre composite chassis, and is powered by a longitudinally-mounted 3.8 Litre twin-turbocharged V8 engine and produced a small number of cars in order for them to compete in the FIA Group GT3. The 1/24 scale Fujimi kit is enhanced by the use of photoetched parts and carbon fibre decals. Paint is Zero Paints McLaren colour matched with Tamiya lacquer gloss coat with Alclad metal lacquers. Hope you enjoy. Steve Hansford Melbourne, Australia.
  13. I have long wanted to do this conversion and had this Fujimi kit and a Renassaisance photo etch set for many years. I found a Hobbitime conversion kit to do the rear deck and that made this project a reality. Although it still took quite a bit of work as the resin conversion pieces still took a lot of filling, sanding and fitting. In the end it was worth it. Paint is Testors 1104 dark red and this matches my earlier berlinetta version. I have included a photo of both. Pictures with captions will tell the rest of the story. Thanks for looking. I really fussed over the steering wheel but it paid off. Seats are sprayed with Mr Color Character Red and then a brown wash. Kit PE for the hardware and silk thread for the belts. Gotta luv the machined gear lever. That radiator was over 45 seperate pieces of PE. It barely shows through the front scoop. Discovered this trick. Lay the photo etch on masking tape and trim with a scissors. Its easier to grab hold of them in a pair of pliers to grind down the little nubbins too. They don't go flying. I was getting rather tired of scrounging on the floor for tiny PE pieces and this solved that issue. This shot of the car reminds me of a line from the movie Ford vs Ferrari when Christian Bales character (Ken Miles) remarked "if this had been a beauty contest...we just lost" It show the lines of this car quite nicely and you can see why this car is considered one of the most beautiful race cars ever. The chrome trim on the vacuum form side windows is chrome tape cut down thin. I omitted the front winglets on this car as i thought it interfered with the lines. I may add them later after looking at the berlinetta. These tiny number marker lights are two pieces. A PE base and turned light housing. It took some special technique to get them attached. But the PE adds greatly to the detail. Here are both Fujimi kits. The berlinetta was done about 7yrs ago and the diecast is a Hot Wheels.
  14. Hey, everyone!, since i wasnt able to post photos, i started my F1, and since now i can post, here now, heres what i have done so far... The objective here is a street version, so all the work will be in the interior from the looks of it. -Photo 1; Everything here is pre-assembled, minus the wing to body contact, and the doors -i Canopy glued them in place while i sanded the body even, and smooth. -Photo 2; I have no idea what these bumps are...they are only on some of the real cars....maybe a bad representation of number lights? -Photo 3; Something i like to do, is drill tiny holes to make it easier to locate, and attach bits...works a treat! -Photo 4; This bit was a separate piece in the kit, but not on the real car, so some fillerin needed to be done because they didnt really line up all that great. -Photo 5; I had to open ALL the vents you see here!....why? Fujimi has a weird way of choosing which ones to do. -Photo 6; I opened these three too, as well as the tow slot... -Photo 7; The angle of the rocker skirts wasnt low enough like the real car, but instead of cutting it off, i just added styrene stock to it, and it looks good with a nice ride height now. -Photo 8; I noticed during a test fit, that there was a slight see-through crack between the body, and interior tub, so just incase, i added styrene stock as you see it -problem solved! -Photo 9; All the arrows point to lines seams that shoulda already been there, but they werent, so i had to scribe them. -Photo 10; Lets see what i can do with this sad engine bay...i opened the rear windows, and cut out the molded in stabilizing bar -i have a more realistic one from Plastistruck. --Photo 11; I opened up the sides here like on the real car... -Photo 12; ...now i needed styrene to fill in the spaces to the parcel tray areas. -Photo 13; Here is a test fit of most of the interior bits...they all fit in harmony. -Photo 14; I really had to chop this bugger up to get the right look. Obviously all the white bits i made, and i added the carpet trimming....its all ready for paint now. -Photo 15; Just another angle with seat belt slots EVERYWHERE!!!...man thats tiring!...I'm also pointing at the storage areas i had to open up, I also had to scribe some seams that shoulda been there. -Photo 16; Believe it or not, but these seats were all the same....until i tweaked the back? two....no they arent stock, but there isnt just one kind either, i often use artistic license, and couldnt give a toss if someone didnt agree, lol I also SB seatbelts that resemble some of the real cars. -Photo 17; In order to make the dash more realistic, i needed to scribe a seam around the top of the guage cluster. The real street version of this car has a slightly different dash, but i like this one better. Since i will be gluing the doors shut, I needed to modify the door cards...i.e., Cut all the sides off. -Photo 18; Here are the last bits...i added more details to the peddles, and drilled out the exhaust tips for better realism...with the size they were, and how shallow they were, even flat black paint wouldnt look okay.
  15. Hello. Built this a few years ago. Was supposed to be a targa but the rear glass snapped in half. So I turned it into a convertible. Repost fotki closed my account
  16. I couldnt take photos of this until i had thoroughly cleaned my model room...so here he is finally...hope you like it! God bless!!!
  17. Hey, everyone! here is where my custom Mini is right now. The body needs decals , and clear, and the rest of it just needs to be detailed, and assembled -should only take a LITTLE more time, lol -Photo 1-3; I removed the factory fender flares, and made me own out of Milliput. The wheels came from a Fujimi Skyline GTR 2000 , and the wide tyres came from a Tamiya racing VW GTI -old kit....Oh ya, i lowered the ride height too. -Photo 4; Miscillanious bits ready for detailing, and assembly...alot of Fixed-up Minis even have center columns -this will too!
  18. Kit is by Fujimi and represents their twin cam 2000GT. It is 1/24 scale. The XX version has some upgrades to the engine and the handling plus those wonderful Recaro seats that I took a picture or before I put the body on. Colour on this beauty is Boyds Chezoom Teal Pearl and this was painted about two years ago. A little bit of polishing and some wax and it stood right out. Wheels are Alcad Jet Exhaust with some dark gold dry brushed on. Kit is curbside. See photo captions for extra details and thanks for looking. I like to take a picture of the interior before the body goes on. Seats are a decal that was sprayed flat and the interior is a custom mix of colors to match the exterior. Carpet is black flocking. Kit was painted two years ago and polished out nicely. Guess it had plenty of time to cure. This is always my favorite veiw. Metal exhaust tips came with the kit. Photo graphing the kit withe background took a few tries to get the angle and settings just right.
  19. Hey, everyone! the last thing i wanted to do was to start yet another build, but due to the fact that my Testors cans of lacquer -new ones, are leaking at the base, i need to paint this body before this kolor goes off as well....Heres a kolor look i'm going for....
  20. Hi!, this is my Fujimi Ferrari F40LM. I wanted to change it to a barely street legal car, so I cut-off the front defuser, detailed the headlamp assemblies with indicators, filled-in the rocker vents, SB a stock wing, and ditched the LM wheels and tyres, for a set of Tamiya stock ones. The engine bay is detailed, as is the interior, with an added seat.
  21. Hey, everyone! I bought this kit because i wanted to see why so many people out there still build this when there are the VERY nice Aoshima kits out there. Having built a couple of the Aoshima versions, i will go through this one, and do a mostly part-by-part direct comparison. Believe it or not, but there are some things that Fujimi did better. -Photo 2; This is how mine will look. -Photo 3-5; I think that Fujimis headlamps are detailed better...are easier to attach, but dont have a separate clear lens like Aoshimas. -Photo 6; The wavy line shows the size of the part....dont know why they did it this way....separate bits like the Aoshima kit is better. The arrows point to areas that are raised pretty decently...it will take a bit to get them level. -Photo 7; If you seat the side panel all the way in, you will end up with a large, uneven ledge, and neither the PE, or the plastic mesh bits will fit in.....so Dont seat it in all the way. Aoshima's Part is better in this aspect. -Photo 8; When this inner side vent part is attached, you will have to grind down, and fill in the seam of the area that the arrow is pointing to...it was a rather noticeable problem. Aoshimas part fit right in, with NO modifications, or unsightly seam. -Photo 9-11; These vents are actually EXCEPTIONALLY nice!! They fit in way easier than Aoshima's, and if you dont want to use PE mesh, these WILL still look totally real! Having built a couple of the Aoshima ones, and adding the PE mesh with SB details behind them, you have to look VERY hard to see through them, so its not really necessary to use the PE vents. Going by the kit parts, Fujimi wins when it comes to the detail, and fit of these vents....Aoshimas plastic vents are molded in smooth, clear plastic, and you have to apply a decal for the mesh pattern....NOT realistic in the slightest. -Photo 12; The doors, and windows in both kits are about the same, but Fujimis has deeper, more realistic door handle detail. -Photo 13; Both kits have pretty nice wipers as far as detail, and fit. -Photo 14; Both kits have decent vents, But Fujimis side vent has a separate trim piece which is nice if you dont want to mask it like you have to on the Aoshima version. The inside of the rocker vent just behind the front tyres, is a separate piece with the Fujimi kit, and is easier to attach mesh to. -Photo 15; This here is a no-brainer....Aoshima has SUPERIOR tailights by FAR!!!.....i'm not looking forward to doing these Fujimi ones....they arent good. -Photo 16; These have to be some of the nicest mirror lenses!....i usually have to strip them on ANY kit, and use chrome sticker as a replacement. Cant remember how Aoshimas were. -Photo 17; The exhaust tips in both kits are pretty close to the same, but the inside detail of the Fujimi one is a bit better....sharper. -Photo 18; This is the PE set that comes in the kit...i WONT be using it, as i'm using the plastic vents. -Photo 19; ...these are all the decals, and seat belt bits that came with the kit, and or the Hobby Design sets. -Photo 20; I basically only got these sets for a few parts.....WONT use most of them.
  22. I bought this kit about 10 years ago because I wanted the seats for a CRX project that I was doing. I took the seats and then just left the kit sitting around gathering dust. Since I am getting back into building and building takes some practice, I thought this would be a great kit to see if I can still do some airbrushing skills. I plan on doing this one in yellow just to see what I can do with a difficult color to work with. The interior is pretty basic and the tub has very little detail. The back seats are a joke and the door panels have zilch for details to them. Going to give the interior a yellow and black as well to go with the exterior. Going to go with a pretty low stance on this one I think. Not going to fully redo the suspension and maybe just do this one scalemoddeler style and glue the wheels in place at the more approperiate stance. Mock up just to get an idea of what it will look like. Going for a pretty OOTB build on this one, just to get the model building skills back up to where they should be. Testing out some new tools as I go along before I get into some more serious builds......well serious for me anyway. If anyone has a set of seats they would consider passing my way or know where I can buy seats, please feel free to let me know.
  23. Fujimi Ferrari F40 in French blue Le Mans livery
  24. Fujimi Ferrari F430 Scuderia GT3 version
  25. Here is My Fujimi Mercedes 500SL Koenig. It was a pretty fun kit to build, but the interior lacked a TON of detail, which i had to fix.
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