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Found 11 results

  1. 😍 That’s right there will be stripping and masking going on in here for your viewing pleasure 😍 Polar Lights POL960M/12 VW Beetle 1/25 scale My friend down the street was building this Beetle as a double memorial for two of his car club member who had passed. Each side represents their respective car to the extent of what is already included in the box. He laid down the paint pretty well but he used the wrong type of tape to mask. Once it bled he masked again to try to paint over the mistake but then it bled under the other way. Three times. He was so over it by then he just asked me to help out with that part of the build. It looked like something that I could handle but we’ll see.
  2. I am attempting to paint a ‘chrome’ finish license plate with raised letters. The directions say “wipe black paint into the number plate and rub off the numbers before dry.” HA! A get all black if I wipe too little or all chrome if I wipe too much. I’m using Tamiya acrylic paint. Of course, the image on the box shows exactly how it should like. Is there a method to do this properly?
  3. I am a relative newbie to the hobby. I am painting a DeLahaye 1/24 sedan with Tamiya TS-10 (blue) rattle can. I did 2 coats of Tamiya primer - good coverage. I did several very light coats of the blue - OK. Waited 24 hours. The problem began with the wet coat. Even though I saw the wet shine while painting, within seconds, the paint turned dark (gray/black) and the finish went flat and dull. I sanded some of the finish off and tried again (24 hours later). Same result. I am painting in the garage with the temperature of 72 and humidity of 67%. What am I doing wrong and how do I fix this? HELP. Thanks. PeterB
  4. Here's another of my acrylic paintings. This was a commission,so I don't have the original. I really liked the reflections in this one.
  5. I am using the Donn Yost practice of using Testors Metallizer spray as a primer. When I go to foil the trim, the foil often lifts off the paint around the trim. This has happened to me when using rattle cans (Testors Lacquer as well as Krylon) and airbrushing. I have tried various things to combat this, including throughly buffing the Metallizer as well as scrubbing with soapy water. Can’t seem to eliminate it. Here are some pictures of the issue: Any help would be appreciated.
  6. Hi For some time now I am planning to build a support to be able to support the models, especially the planes, which will allow me to mount and paint them. Here I leave a basic idea that I have developed which is working very well although after going using it I am looking to make some modifications. I would like you to tell me what you think the support, what improvements you would make and what support you usually use. A greeting and I hope you like it https://youtu.be/XJxCFEw-x_M
  7. Hey guys, just have a quick question. I am painting the interior tub of my car. I want a white interior with purple accent. Some of the lines are curved and hard to tape off. Any tips with that? Or would you just paint all white then come back in with the purple on the lines you want purple? Is it okay to go right back over the paint if allowed to dry? Thanks guys!
  8. Hi everyone, I'm new here. Working on my fourth car model and am trying to hone my skills. Currently trying to finish my Revell Germany Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG 1:24 model. I've been doing pretty well thus far. The only problem I have is that my body color: Chrome silver does not match my doors. I had a crappy airbrush (Master that I got cheaply on Amazon when I first started building car models) that has been getting worse and worse. I guess I didn't get enough paint on the doors and now the paint is lighter than on the doors and looks awfully strange. I was thinking of sanding down the doors and re-airbrushing them. Just bought an Iwata Revolution. Any tips on what I should do? I already assembled the doors to the body of the car and didn't realize the horrible contrast in color until they were on. Should I try to take them off of the body of the car, sand them down and repaint them, or is there a way that I can mask the body of the car without taking it apart to sand and repaint. Let me know if you have any suggestion. Thanks!
  9. Morning everyone, OK...what am I doing wrong? I've got the AMT '51 Chevy kit and I sprung for the expensive Spaz paint (including the gloss black sealer). However, my chrome looks just plain old silver. Was it because I brushed it on? (don't have airbrush yet....) ?????
  10. Don't you just hate! When you work and sand a Body ready for painting, then the weather turns, and you end up getting small Pin bubbles in the paint Job!! So, Then you decide to spray a spare junk body to test decals and reaction to a new Floor wax dip deal, and the paint job come's out near perfect!! That's what happen when I sprayed New Green Elephant Vega body, So I yanked a old SS Chevelle body out wanting to put some old decals on, and do this deal where as you Dip the body in the floor wax and let it set up,, well Now I have too sand the Vega back down, and the Chevelle is fine,,lol
  11. I bought about 40 bottles of model master paint and I got to say I love how they cover the parts so well and how easy the brush on. And their good air brush paints too. I will post pics of the engine Iam working on today.
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