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  1. These came in the mail today, a WIX NAPA version of the 427 Cobra and a Motormax 2005 Ford GT. The WIX Cobra is the Elvis Presley Spin Out movie race version without windshield and is up to their usual high standard but I am a bit disappointed in the finish on the side pipes. The side pipes which are prototypically correct for the movie car but look so much better on the blue and silver WIX Cobras. Franklin Mint released the same Spin Out model but with a guitar. The Motormax Ford GT is pretty much standard fare but I wanted to include this year in my diecast Ford GT collection. It is a bit strange that there are no side windows included. I do prefer the Revell Snap Tite version though.
  2. The community has been kind of slow here so I thought I would start a thread on favorite diecasts. My favorite is a 1/24 scale EBBRO Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7 of 1973. Everything about this model is above the normal standard. I wish I could get better pictures of the interior and engine bay. Please feel free to add your favorite to this topic.
  3. Alfa Romeo 8C 2300 Touring Spider Bburago Diecast Kit, Scale 1/18 Here original... ...and new painted
  4. I just picked up some Racing Champion diecast and one of them has bad paint cracking, and the windshield looks like it "shrunk" and disconnected in a couple key areas. My thoughts are this model must have been sitting in direct sunlight for a long time and maybe the heating up/cooling down shrunk the plastic windshield slow enough that it didn't just "break' or crack, but rather disconnected from the glue points and slowly shrunk. I'm guessing there's nowhere to get a replacement for that? The paint may also be a result of sitting in the sun, inside the package for alot of years. The "model year" of this diecast comes from the 97 season of NHRA races, so I'd imagine it was made in 98. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get severely cracking paint to look a little better? In a previous life I was a body/paint guy and the only time we had to deal with cracking paint was the clear coat cracking which sometimes could be fixed. But with these diecast's there's no clear to fix so is there any solution other then a total repaint? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  5. Surprised we don’t have a thread in here for this. Post pic if you could. Maisto has new 2 door ‘21-‘22 Bronco out. Burago has Ferrari SF90 too.
  6. When I was at my mechanic the other day, saw this article in Hemmings June 2009 issue, about Frank Schaeffer. He likes to weather his models, which is right up my alley. Looks like he does commission work too. He prefers the bigger scales: Uh right, guess he does not hang out on this forum? ?
  7. Well now we diecast enthusiasts are down here in the basement in the Community_Diecast Corner. Interesting choice of a label. I guess I can live with that. Hope everyone is doing OK and staying healthy.
  8. I took a look at this car, has body issues very odd looking but presentable too. What do you all think?
  9. Fifth Annual Long Island Toy Car Trifecta Sunday April 8th, 2018 Massapequa NY Click on the link below for the show flyer LITCShow Flyer_2018.pdf
  10. A friend is building a full scale replica of the 1954 Motorama Corvair concept car and wants to be sure he has the correct color. Do you, Art, or anyone else know how JL determined the color for their diecast and exactly what color it is? Thanks.
  11. Hello, I am looking form a 1971 GTX Or Roadrunner 1/18 parts car.I mostly need the front and rear bumpers, Mike 248-635-6960 thank you.
  12. Did you see the Bugatti Chiron 1:24 Maisto Special Edition on Internet or in a toyshop on the shelves ? Or did you hold one in hand and opened the doors ? Only the doors ! And you can see a little detail of the engine through the rear window. The lid is a separate part but don`t move ! I`m a curious man and I dismanteled the car in a moment to see which details of engine are remaining hidden. Well there are some ones alas not very many. BUT . . . the great suprise: the lid is manufactured with hinges to open ! It seemed later they changed their mind and made two little pieces of border on the lid to hinder from open it. OK . . . that`s not a great thing to remove them. BUT (again) . . . they are precise engineers at Maisto and made a border on the hinged side of lid in full width too ! That one to remove is a rather challenging work. Finally I could open the lid and tought I shall detail the engine and ready ! BUT . . . there are a lot of beautifull casted details and they are excaliming for some paint and chrome. And some little parts are missing: the foot rest, a piece of carpet before the pedals, the upholstery of the ceiling, the sunshade on it, the attractive arch with leds and the mirror of the inside mirror. The two holes on the back of the seets were missing too but they were marked on the back side so they needed to be opened only. I enjoyed very much to do all these detailings but the end result don`t show very much from them. I wish a lot of patience for everybody who want to open the lid same way. He shall need it ! I would be happy to hear any suggestions or criticism – I know what I made isn`t perfect.
  13. I have a model car with a body that is made of die cast. It is unpainted and I have one question. Do you paint die cast the same way as styrene and do you sand it and polish the finish the same way? Could you use spray cans and or an airbrush?
  14. Looking for advise, tips, tricks, etc on re-contouring the deck lid on my '69 H/O convertible build. How malleable is the zinc(?) body? Will it bend a bit before fracturing? I am amazed by the diecast cars you guys build and hope there's someone who knows their way around a diecast body who will share their knowledge and can keep me out of trouble and on point with my project. My sincere thanks in advance for you assistance!!!
  15. I worked on this one about 15 years ago filing and sanding the flash off. Not sure why it got put aside but along with this one i have few more of the Hubley kits prepped and about ready to paint. Anyway i decided it was time to finish this one. It is actually a reissue of the old Hubley kit. I found this paint at Target in the craft section for $1.99. It brushes on ok but really flows on smooth and covers well with the airbrush. I'm going to pick up some more of this paint.
  16. These are a few old diecast trucks and cars from my junk box that needed paint jobs. I dig some of these out every now and then to test new paints or just practice on. Some I will keep in the collection, others I will sell at the antique mall for hobby money. They were all stripped and primed with self etching primer. This is a Midgetoy Ford wrecker about 3 in long. It's paint with Testors MM Guard red with a drop of hardener added. Midgetoy 58 Corvette about 2-1/4 in long. Painted with Testors Aztec acrylics. This is with out a doubt the best acrylic paint I have ever sprayed in an airbrush. Here we have both Corvettes, one Copper and the other Guard Red finished.
  17. Hey all, I've searched and searched the forums, but have not been able to find any threads addressing my issue. So, here it goes: I recently bought a Sunstar 1:18 replica of a 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS as a birthday gift for my friend. There's one problem, though: It's silver, and I want it to match his car, which is black. I've got it parted down, and I'm having the diecast metal body sandblasted to remove the paint. Here's where my questions begin: 1. If the body metal is still coarse from the sandblasting, do I need a primer before laying down the basecoat? NOTE: the basecoat is not model paint - it's automotive touch-up aerosol paint from AutomotiveTouchUp.com (I want this model to match EXACTLY to his car). 2. How can I avoid having a tacky clearcoat on the final product? I did something similar to this process with my phone's metal battery cover, and after several months the clear is still tacky - you can leave a good scratch in it if you drag your fingernail across it hard enough. 3. Obviously, the sandblasting will remove any painted/stamped-on decals/tampoes. Can I get new ones somehow (print, order, paint on by hand) or will the car have to be badge-less? Thanks in advance for your help and time, folks!
  18. I have this one started now but it's going rather slow. The cab is a 1/16 Ertl International diecast cab from the 70's. The trailer is a Wyanndott pressed steel trailer for the early 50's. As you can see the cab has been well played with a painted several times. Here is the cab cleaned up and shown with the tailer as found.
  19. Hello all, Was at a friend yesterday and he gave me a flyer of this French company which produces diecasts of vintage trucks in 1/24th scale. http://www.maqmadon.com/ I thought to spread the news Also interesting is that you can buy this seperate....
  21. Does anyone here have any experiece with these models? From the pictures i have seen they are miles ahead from the Ertl 1:18 cars i have seen so far. This goes for both detail and shape of the body. I have been searching a nice 68-70 Charger or 70-71 Cuda in 1:18,i have give up on the Cuda. The other day i stumbled upon some models from a manufacture called Autoworld,and they have many nice muscle cars,also some older classics. I`m no expert but from what i can see as in detail,they look pretty much bang for the bucks,also very nice and realistic bodyshapes. The one i`m considering getting is nr 2 in the link below. https://www.diecastmusclecars.com/charger.htm No thick hood hinges. Has anyone here bought one of these models?
  22. Thinking of taking this Maisto Squareback and making a replica of my poor old '73 :,(
  23. These are just a few of my favorite Danbury Mint models
  24. Danbury has really gifted us with some real Beauties over the years. When they slowed production to a halt, their limited editions were selling for $150. Their latest,(and last) model, the beautiful 1935 Ford Coupe, is listed for $250.00. I have about 100 or so of them, so if I factor in the extra $100 I spent on this model, that is like adding a single dollar to every other one I bought. Not bad in my book, considering some of the models in my collection are worth at least twice what I paid Danbury Mint for them, and some even more. My Bullitt Charger, for example, one has sold on eBay for $1200.00 (not my personal model) I had more, but sold off the low-tech stuff (and made a tidy profit doing so), and now only have the models that came from (what I like to call) the Golden Age of diecasting, when models were rid of the dog-leg doors, and went to hinges, photo-etching was a must, and they just got awesome. Models like both the wonderful '54 Cadillacs (hardtop/'vert), the '59 Pontiac, both the '58 Pontiacs(hardtop/'vert), the '57 Cadillacs(hardtop/'vert), all the woody wagons. The '58 Chryslers. The two '55 Chevy's(hardtop/'vert), the second Gen and '64, '65 Thunderbirds, the beautiful '47, 48 Buicks, and lest we forget the striking '56 Lincoln Premier's (hardtop/'vert), or how about the two Packard Caribbean's (hardtop/'vert), or have we forgotten so fast of the two outstanding '56 Buick's that Danbury gifted us? How about the '49 Olds Rocket coupe, or the '48 Chevy Fleetline? And those are just some of the jewels from the '50's. I would be a fool if I forgot to mention the classic '36 Packard that belongs in every diecast collection, or the first Ford fitted with a V8......the 1932 Ford Coupe B., and life wouldn't be so merry if I didn't have my '37 Stude Dictator coupe, and the new '35 Ford fits right in with these stunning vertical grill cars. I hope I haven't bored anybody yet, because I have yet to mention the Hotrods, like the Little Deuce Coupe, The Ala-Kart, The McMullen Roadster, or the Norm Grabowski's Kookie Kar. I also have all of the under-appreciated pro-street cars. I also have every Danbury Mint C-3 Corvette, including the Pro-Touring and Owens Corning racer, 13 in total. And don't let me get started with the muscle-cars, let's just say I have all the good ones. Did Danbury ever make a bad one? I own all the models listed above, and then some. I am just trying to make a point here, and that to me, the extra $100 that I spent on the very last Danbury Mint model was well justified. It will be destined to be a highly collectable model, and I just couldn't live with myself if I didn't jump on it. I have made that mistake in the past, and ended up paying dearly for it.
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