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Scale I Build

  1. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_partsdrawings_links.htm A gold mine of reference material on flathead Ford V-8s and chassis parts.
  2. I'm a big fan of '70's custom vans. Last year I bought a box of scraps and inside was this Ford 4X4 glue bomb. It was a great opportunity to build one. I still need to make a pair of rear view mirrors, a whip antenna and I want to put a skid plate under the front bumper. It was a simple kit so I just disassembled it, cleaned it up repainted and reassembled it. The mural is printed on vinyl and oversprayed with an airbrush to blend it in, the sides are relatively flat so they blend in well and on radiuses pieces I used paint. The engine and interior are there but really nothing exciting. I weathered the exterior a bit because I imagine hell as being a bit dirty.
  3. Hello everyone, now the time has come. After a long search, I have found a suitable kit to realize the Hoonitruck. The kit, of which again only a few parts are used. The hood is already marked. The outer pieces will go to the body and the middle part will be for opening. Then I already made a rear side part to the right length. That was the beginning, a lot will be done by 3D printing. Stay tuned.
  4. I always loved the body style of the 57 T-Birds and wanted to build an early street machine version of one. I built this using the AMT 57 Thunderbird kit. Paint is Tamiyas Yellow Pearl over Tamiyas white primer then coated with Testors Wet Coat. Mags and tires are parts box finds. New axles were made using weld wire to bring the wheels out to a correct position. The sneaker pipes are from AMT's 49 Ford. Taillights are from AMT's 56 Ford as are the traction bars. Windshield frame and headlight brows are from a vintage issue of the 57. Overall it was a fun build however, the windshield did not want to cooperate no matter what glass or frame I used.
  5. Moebius '72 F-250 plow truck. My first Moebius kit. I was pretty impressed with the detail and parts fit. Let me know what you all think
  6. Started to head a bit off track in the AMT 1936 Ford thread, so starting this one on the Monogram kit. If anyone wants to add in information on other issues of the Monogram 1936 Ford, please feel free to do so. Going by the instruction sheet this issue of the kit was offered in 1974, a convertible only version of an older 6 in 1 kit that builds a custom 1936 Ford. It does not come with stock wheels or engine. Replacing those items would appear to allow a factory stock car to be built from the kit. The instructions say the kit engine is a 1948 Mercury with a 3 carburetor set up. It can be built top up, or top down. The rumble seat appears to be designed to be movable allowing it to open and close. The Monogram and AMT kits build different convertible top vehicles. The Monogram kit builds a convertible or cabriolet, the AMT kit can be built as a roadster. The convertible was a higher end vehicle with roll up side windows for better protection from the elements. The Roadster has no side windows and uses a different windshield which includes wind deflectors on either side. The kit
  7. Saw one in the forum in this same color and knew I had to do another car in that color. This probably some of my best work. SAM_1465 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1466 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1467 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1468 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1469 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1470 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  8. This is the new Revell kit. I really enjoyed the kit. It's not bad at all and is an improvement over the old kit, but it does have its issues. With the carb on the hood sits too high. With it off the shaker sits too low. I glued the shaker straight to the hood and took the carb off to fix the problem. I also had a bit of a problem with the front an rear end fit, but it came out looking good anyway. I love the new stripes and emblem decals. they look great! The red car is the old kit for comparison. SAM_1458 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1459 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1460 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1461 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1462 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1464 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  9. Had the kit for a few weeks, but didn't have a chance to work on it much. Finally got it finished Tuesday night. The kit is great, but there's a few minor issues. Still it came out working great! Bought another one to paint in green after seeing the other 71 posted on here. I loved that color. SAM_1453 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1454 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1455 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1456 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  10. THIS IS A RE-BOOT OF MY OLD THREAD. I first started work on this Galaxie in 2013. The thread for that can be seen here. I hit a problem with the body paint and put the kit back on the shelf… until now! Unfortunately, soon after I put the kit away, Image Shack started charging for their image hosting and all my pictures on that thread were lost! This is why I'm having to re-boot the thread. This kit has always had a special place in my memories. I built a Barris 'Cruisin USA' kit when I was a kid - it was one of my first models I ever build. It came out pretty well (by my standard of the day). I wish I had kept it, but many years down the line I have no idea what happened to that model (but I a few of the parts have turned up in my spare parts box!). I found a more recent re-issue of the Galaxie on eBay. It has been started and is missing the engine. I thought it would be great to do this kit again - only this time, I'd like to think I have a better set of building skills. My intention is to build a 'tough as nails' street machine with modern day 'real-world' upgrades. I'm thinking lowered suspension and monster V8, standard bodywork with simple de-badging and plenty of detail. The first area needing attention is the floor/chassis... Well, that's as much as I can add in one post. There are over 100 more pics chronicling the build right up to the body paint stage - where it all went wrong! I will try to get this thread up to the current stage by posting a batch of images at a time (as I find them). With a little encouragement from everyone out there I hope to rekindle my enthusiasm in this build and finish it off.
  11. Well that's a wrap. Very nice build, went together easily. Wasn't sure about the screw in interior and chassis but it was nice to easily secure the pieces together
  12. IMC is a defunct manufacturer, I never heard of them before I saw this in an estate collection. Knew it had to be rare, because I was also not familiar with the GTP J-car, and after reading what little history is online, see that it's the black sheep of GT-40 history. The original owner had broken off the body and chassis parts, and spray painted a pink tinted white, then thankfully put it away. For some weird reason, I had to resurrect and finish this. After stripping with brake fluid, painted the body with flat white paint, then gloss white. The instructions are odd, there are no part numbers, or color references. I had to re-evaluate how to assemble and paint sub assemblies, tack glued together the chassis, so I could take apart to assemble the suspension. I used Alclad, polished aluminum on the chassis, steel for the exhausts, chrome for the inner wheels. Testors magnesium metalizer for the wheel centers, but not rubbed. Best that I could tell, Ford painted the intake plenum gold, but I had to assume the block was blue. Since there is a texture, I assumed the pan had a coating. I need to improve my masking skills, and almost messed up the blue. grrrr I masked the number circle, instead of hoping the decal would work. Lucked out with the decals, they did not fall apart, and stuck with the use of the mild Microsol, but I used Solvaset at the end of the stripes. Since this is a box Stock build, and there is hardly any online reference to dispute inaccuracies, I applied the Shell and IMC decals to. The stripe was also much longer than the rocker panel, so I added to the engine bonnet. I whipped this out in about a week. Next is painting the body clear gloss, , glue on clear parts (lucky the tires did not melt on those parts).
  13. Hello I'm going to build this kit to mark the 60th anniversary of the model. I will take pictures and share my experiences as I build. I made an unboxing video where you can see the parts. Based on the 3in1 option, I'm not sure how I'm going to put it together. If you have already made this kit, please tell me what I need to pay attention to. Thank you.
  14. Background: Although the original GT40 is a bit too 1960s in its design for my tastes, I do love the way the 2000's follow up looks - the sharpening up of the shape and details and modern production engineering make it look just right. It was a long while before I even knew there was a model kit of one, and then I found this one by Polar Lights, itself a reboxing of an AMT snap-fit kit. I did wonder if a snap-fit kit would be any good but after a long think (years, on-and-off!), this November I decided to give it a go anyway and buy one online. I started it within a few days of it arriving in the post. Pros: There is a lot of detail, with a great interior and a full engine. Being a snap-fit kit, everything fits together correctly and this makes putting it together easier than a needs-glue equivalent. The seats and their silver inserts being a highlight of kit engineering made to make life easy for the builder - the kind of thing you'd expect from Tamiya not AMT. Not having to glue some of the fiddly transparent parts is also very helpful, amongst other things. The decals are great quality, easy to apply and have spares and enough options whatever colour you make your build. The transparent parts are really clean and shiny, and the overall shape and proportions of the car look good. The door mirrors are solidly mounted as are the seats. Cons: The wheels, brakes and tyres are not good, lacking details and having a solid area around the brake disc. The tyre treads are too thick and seem like winter tyres. Also once assembled, the calipers rotate with the wheels. The instructions are not great quality, have omissions and also mistakes in the correct decal numbers. The painting guide is also incorrect in some areas. Despite the comprehensive decals, there are no front-to-back stripes unless you mask and paint your own. Most of the chromed parts are not chrome on the real car but aluminium, and the chrome is a nuisance to remove. Fitting the body to the chassis is work. The initial impression of the kit on unboxing is something which is thick and toylike although building it deconstructs this impression. Verdict: Remarkably good. It's a better kit than you'd expect and builds just like any other decent quality kit, despite the expectations of what comprises a snap-fit kit. Very much recommended if you like the subject matter. Build notes: Built over the course of 3 weeks in December 2022. Aside from a few bits of mesh it's built entirely out-of-the-box. It's painted with Tamiya Silver (for the stripes) and Land Rover Scotia Grey for the rest, from a Halfords rattle-can. It's clearcoated with Mr Hobby Gloss Premium. I am very very happy with the way it's come out, and how photogenic it is.
  15. Revell kit mostly OOB, but had some simplified bits (which are actually carry overs from the snap-tite Shinoda Boss kit) swapped out with guts from the '99 Cobra. Front suspension was missing springs and shocks, so that and IRS came from the 99. However, while the interiors are the same sans small differences in door panels and seats, the SS's chassis had to be swapped with the Cobra's as the former had indents that were meant for the solid rear axle setup and wouldn't work with the IRS. My kit despite being sealed, had a horribly deformed (short shot?) steering wheel, so I found a replacement parts one from what appears to be a Monogram '70 Mustang Boss. The one off 5.4 DOHC engine (just DOHC heads on a SOHC truck 2 valve motor, which is different than the 4.6) while somewhat simplified and based on the 5.0 in the Shinoda Boss, was used as is considering you won't see much of it with the supercharger and all. However, the '99 Cobra's exhaust had to have the tips trimmed so it would not interfere with the body-to-frame fit frame and also had the tranny cross-member at a different place and shape and wouldn't work with the 5.4. So out went that and in came the brace from the Super Stallion chassis that was cut and placed to aprox it's original location. Paint is Testors Color Shift Emerald Turquoise cleared with Pledge. Color looks like a metal flake British Racing Green in the pics, though in certain lighting you can see somewhat of a shift to Blue.
  16. I'm going to be doing this little build as I’m getting back into this. The paint choice will either be a Metallic Black or Gloss Red. I will be using wheels from a 1:32 Jada Bigtime Muscle Wide Body Camaro (Shown in second pic and mock up shown in third). Planning on getting a coat of primer on the body soon. I will Update everyone as I go. Hope everyone enjoys!
  17. Got this as a Christmas present from Dad. Not a bad kit. Pretty easy build. fits together nicely. I don't like the colors of the Baja, so I made a stock Bronco. SAM_1127 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1128 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1129 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1130 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1131 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1132 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1133 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1134 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1135 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  18. Here is my Revell 1930 Ford Model A Coupé. It is essentially straight from the box, and it's sort of a mix (marking wise) between a WWII US Army tank & a USAAF fighter bomber (P-47D?). Color is Tamiya AS-14 USAF Olive Green. Interior is Dupli-Color Aluminum.
  19. While visiting Vancouver, I spotted a 1915 Model T parked on a street in the Steveston area of Richmond, BC.
  20. I got the original kit when it came out, but always felt I could have done better on it. I decided I wanted to get a friend a model as a gift. He had an old 71 Torino and I thought this would be the closest thing to his 71 I would find. I got a new kit for myself and decided to give him my old kit. This new build came out a lot better than my previous build, even though there are still some things I did that I don't like. I also had some fit issues with the tub and chassis that I didnt have the first time around. SAM_1030 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1032 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1033 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1034 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1035 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1036 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_1037 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  21. This wasn't a bad kit, but it had some issues. The decals are super fragile and a couple disintegrated on me. I lost another after it fell off. The hard top also has a slight fit issue. I also don't like the one piece under side. I feel it should have had a two part frame like some of their other kits. Came out looking alright though. SAM_0931 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0932 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0933 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0934 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0935 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  22. Another one started, hoping to get it finished. This is from the 3 muscle car set that includes the 69 Barracuda and 69 4-4-2. This particular kit came with the BF Goodrich tires that are okay but looked to small for this build. So I found a set of F60-15 RWL tires from various AMT kits. The real car came equipped with F60x14 so I an not that far off from stock. I think I have a warped frame because the wheelbase does not align, I will try and fix that later. The wheels are detailed and done except for a little cleanup. Then I got to looking at the interior. I do not know where AMT got this center console from in the kit, because the real one actually looks like ones in the 66-67 Mustangs. I am not sure what I will do about this though, I could cut out the bad console and fill the area in with flooring then put the shifter on. Or I could find a center console from a 67 Mustang GT kit for it. Easiest is to detail what is there in the kit and call it done. I cut away the rear bumper from the tail light area because the area below the taillights is supposed to be body color. I am going to try and not do too much more "adjustments" to this kit as it is very old and to really improve it would mean to replace the frame with another one from a newer kit (maybe a Revell 70 Torino?). Btw, the engine in this kit seems to be based on one from an AMT 61 Mercury kit! I base this observation on the oil pan being molded to the bottom of the engine halves and the way the timing chain cover looks. No matter though, it seems to fill up the engine compartment. No solid plans for a color, but I am leaning towards Tamiya TS-64 Dark Mica blue. Thanks for looking, all comments welcomed.
  23. Ford just released their vault of brochures, advertisements and photos for their vehicles built between 1903 and 2003. Should be a great reference for anyone who builds Ford models! And best of all, it’s all free! https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2022/06/16/ford-heritage-vault.html https://fordheritagevault.com/
  24. Just got this the other day. It's not a bad kit, but it shows its age as a Monogram kit. The decals curled immediately and I had to order some new ones. Still, It looks great. SAM_0928 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0929 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr SAM_0930 by Eric Lucas, on Flickr
  25. Something I never thought they made, my dad had one of these in real life back in the late 70s. It was red with a red interior, six and a three on the tree, and poverty hubcaps. I used to drive it around for him. I remember it was LOW, I pretty much towered over the roof (and I'm about 5' 10"). Even with the six it scooted fairly well so to have a 352 in it would have been very scary. I may have to paint this red in tribute to the real one but it will have a v8. More information at the link below. Thanks for looking and enjoy! Pictures of box, box contents, and instructions here
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