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Scale I Build

  1. Photos of some Lamborghinis I've taken at various car shows. A Lamborghini is followed by a 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air into the Woodside Ferry Terminal parking lot and leaving the cruise-in. A&W summer Thursday weekly cruise-in at Woodside Ferry Terminal, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia Canada., August 20, 2009.
  2. This week I will be starting to build my Lamborghini Miura. This photo shows how it will look when its done.....hope you enjoy!
  3. Hey everyone!, this is gonna be my first ever large scale build......and my last. A friend of mine gave me this kit, and I said that I don't normally do large scale, but if I did, it would be a Countach, so here I am! I say "upgrade", because EVERYBODY builds this kit as the kit specifies...….NOT me, I will be turning it into a later model 500s, while getting inspiration from the lesser-known Twin Turbo prototype, so there will be a TON of scratchbuilding involved! -thanks for checking it out!
  4. Hello Everybody! I've finished with The Mummy Machine so it's time for the next project, something a little more conventional. "Conventional" being a relative term. This is the Lamborghini Countache 5000 quattrovalvoli kit by Fujimi. I've always wanted to build one of these. Well, it's more accurate to say that I've always wanted to own one of these cars but since that that is unlikely to happen, I'll have to settle for building and owning a model of one. This is where the love affair first started. Well, sort of. I remember first learning of the car when I was about eleven ot twelve years old. I saw a photo of one on a magazine cover at a local supermarket and I was immediately smitten. Sometime in 1985 I purchased this poster in a bookstore and I've kept it for these past 37 years, still (mostly) in the original shrink wrap. This is the inspiration for the model kit I'm about to start building. Fujimi did a beautiful job with the metalized finish on the wheels. They're a good representation of cast aluminum ones that can be seen on most of the real cars. It's almost a shame to strip them for repainting but I want the wheels on this build to be white like the ones on the poster. Here are the wheels repainted to match the ones on the poster. As always, thanks for taking the time to look and please feel free to comment. David G.
  5. Good Evening, Aoshima's Aventador was meant to be my magnus opus build as my intention was to go all in. Well, needless to say some lessons were learned and familiar mistakes made along the way, so I'd say I'm 75% pleased with the final outcome. The body was primed with Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black, painted with Tamiya LP-21 Italian Red, then X-19 Smoke and cleared with X-22. The interior is X-18 Semi Gloss Black with XF-7 Flat Red + X-35 Semi Gloss Clear accents. Black embossing powder was used for the carpet. Wheels were chrome-stripped with LA's Totally Awesome, primed with Tamiya Fine Surfacer Grey, base coated with Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black and finished with X-10 Gun Metal. What I learned from this build: 1. Why so much paint? On a test spoon the red came out nice and dark, on the kit it was difficult to cover the black evenly so I kept applying more red. The car ended up looking more like a Ferrari so I thought I would try deepening the colour with X-19 Smoke. Again, not so easy to apply evenly, however, I decided to settle for the subtle tone differences on the car. 2. The doors ended up matching the body reasonably well, but not the engine cover. I dropped the part in LA's Totally Awesome and the acrylic paint slipped off no problem. The underlying LP red was slightly affected so I sanded it down and reapplied the red. Should have known better that it needed to be primed again first. Sanded it down again, reapplied the black primer and red once more. There were some strange, tiny bumps almost like dust or bubbles that were trapped under the paint. Stripped it down again, re-primed and painted it - this time putting the part in a dehydrator to make sure it was super dry. The result... the same bumps in the same locations. In fact, some of these bumps are all over the car body. I just accepted it and moved on. The photos with overhead lighting greatly hide the finish. 3. Getting paint into areas like the side vents was challenging. The same thing often happens when painting interior tubs. It's almost like there's a vortex and the paint either doesn't lay down with enough volume or dries before it lands. Any advice here would be appreciated. 4. First time using Photo Etch parts (ping and a prayer). These are tough little suckers to work with! I lightly sanded the back of the parts and used CA glue to hold them in place - with mixed results. The parts were meant to be glued to glass and I found that the glue was visible in some places after it dried. Any advice is welcomed here, too. 5. A couple parts in the kit were warped. Last time I tried to straighten a part (Lamborghini Miura Louvers) I melted it using a candle 🤬. This time I used hot tap water and it worked well. 6. The engine cover is meant to be opened, and did perfectly during test fitting, however, sliding the two horseshoe hooks into place at the end was creaky and tight process - popping the glass pieces off their supports (probably incorrect terminology here). Any advice on applying glass parts over painted black areas without the glue showing through is appreciated here. 7. The door hinges required a little patience as did the carbon fibre decal that goes over the engine cover, which was flooded with setting solution. 8. Bonehead moves: I managed to slop a little glue on the widows (my goto move) and body; left a number of fingerprints all over - gotta let that X-22 dry extra, extra long; while polishing and waxing the body I caught the cloth on the PE wiper and bent it. Overall, the parts are nicely detailed, fit very well (minus the two bent parts) and probably the most advanced kit I've built to date. Thanks for letting me waste your time.
  6. Good Evening, The start of each build is a brand new opportunity to build the perfect model i.e. no mistakes with things working out as you planned. I know this isn't realistic, but a guy can dream. So this one was going along pretty well until the first boo boo, which continued with next and so on... Painted with Zero Paints Grigio Thalasso and Tamiya LP-5 Semi Gloss Black for the trim. The interior is just a mix of semi gloss and flat black. What I Learned: 1. Maybe it's just me but I find Fujimi kits are quite nice during the sub assembly stages, but when it comes time to mount the body to the chassis... not so much. This was certainly the case with their Ford GT40 as well. 2. More on fit: the engine cover appears to be designed to be glued in place - no point going crazy with the engine; the windshield, both rear quarter marker lights the and headlights didn’t fit flush. On the plus side, the doors and windows fit perfectly (certainly more than I can say for any Countach kit). 3. Even more on fit: the front chassis pan hangs down below the splitter/skirt/nose (not easily seen in the photos. This is likely due to some mistake on my part. Having said that, I had the benefit of reading another member's post on fitting the body to the chassis and still encountered problems. It took some serious finagling to make front and rear splitters/skirts/ fit, as well as the side skirts/rockers. I ended up snapping/chipping the front quarter points on the body and splitter as well as some glue mess. Sorry for my poor parts terminology. 4. Zero Paints Gloss Clear does not play well with underlying paint if applied too heavily. I first applied a couple light coats to protect the decals and allowed the minimum drying time, but the third heavier coat activated the colour paint and created some swirls. Some user error here for sure. When I masked the body to paint the window trim, the tape pulled off a tiny bit of the clear and underlying decals over both rear quarter panels. 5. Zero's Satin (Semi Gloss) Clear goes on kinda pebbly unless you apply wetter coats and dries a little shinier than other brands. 6. I glued the side mirrors to the doors before priming and painting - seemed to work well with this kit. 7. First time using black CA glue. This is an interesting product: it's quite viscous, flows deceivingly well and dries with a rubbery feel. Probably excellent for PE and mounting certain body parts - especially when attaching the body to chassis to reduce creaking and snapping. I will be using this more on future builds. If you've made it this far, here are the photos:
  7. When the new Countach first came out, i had several friends ask me what i thought of it, since the Countach is my most favorite car ever. I was excited...until i saw it, then i got sick. I dont even know where to begin. With it being arguably the most iconic super car, wouldnt you think that it deserves its own new identity? Lamborghini did what most domestic car companies do...use a platform for multiple "different" cars. I just want to start off saying that i love the Aventadors, but this new Countach is nothing more than yet another version of the Aventador -how lazy, and boring. Not only is it a rubbish attempt at a Countach, it does the Aventador a huge disrespect. It takes more than a few body tweaks, bucket seat padding, and a nme plate to make a proper Countach....so its got some EV -big deal. There are a few concepts out there that would have been better, but mine will still be different, and will make the fans of the original prototype, pariscope, and useless wing/fender flares lovers ALL happy. This car will be made from all the latest technologies to compete with top Hyper cars. It will have a Lamborghini 7 liter V-12 with quad turbos, active aero front, and back, and you wont have to sit on the sill to back it up...in fact, all the horrible rear view issues will be fixed with the use of cameras. It will also have an 8 speed tranny, and AWD.
  8. Earlier I had posted photos of the Welly Lamborghini Miura, well now I have found a Leo Models P400 Miura. Phots show a comparison of the cheaper $9.97 Welly to $60 Leo model on Italian eBay. The biggest difference is the opening rear deck showing the engine, then there is the larger grill and larger and better detailed wheels. I am glad to have them both now.
  9. Hey, everyone! I thought i hadnt finished any builds in 2021, but then i remembered my Fujimi Aventador Miura edition...hope you like it! God bless!!
  10. WIP: "Barn find" Italeri's Lamborghini Miura with link to article that was the inspiration. What I do with kits that aren't accurate or detailed enough, is make derelicts. If it wasn't mostly made of aluminum, would have added rust. Since this car was kept in a garage, protected from weather and rodents, it was well preserved. Built as Box Stock, the only modification was dropping the rear axel, and using another front badge. Last build for 2021! The real car's bonnet opens up this much, but the exhaust pipes lift the rear wheels off the ground. 😂
  11. How can you hate a Miura? When it's a poorly done, sort of curbside kit that is eclipsed by the Hasegawa kit. What can be done to improve such a kit, besides step on it? I've done several models of such kits, as beaters or abandoned derelicts, because it's not worth spending months on it when better kits exist. When I saw this PETROLICOUS: This Lamborghini Miura Is A Family Heirloom Barn Find article, I knew what to build. Today in my search, found two other cars that were found abandoned, so it's a ripe subject. There are some things that I could change to be faithful to the car, grip shift handle, custom air filters, steering wheel design, some plaques, but I won't. So here goes, totally Box Stock, will not modify, switch parts, make parts, nothing but give it the crummiest paint job possible. 😏 Box art is nice, with the 50th anniversary logo. To be fair, most of the parts don't need much cleanup. The wheels are nicely detailed, but one end has more flashing than the other end. The body is reasonably accurate, mold lines are very minimal. There is one booger that I *had to* fix. If this was to be a contest model, there are some minor spots that should be puttied. Glued together sub-assemblies. Separating the body parts was dicey, could not use sprue cutters, so I sawed them apart. Some parts that were elsewhere on the sprues, are Tacky glued near parts to be painted the same color. First paint session. Quick coat of Tamiya primer on the body. Model Master flat black (this is sort of like watching someone die a slow death, what am I going to use when it's used up?) everywhere, the interior of the subject car is black. Alclad magnesium on the wheels, polished aluminum steering wheel, headlights and spinners, (regular) aluminum carbs, engine bottom and hood hinges. The chassis and interior are done. I painted the air cleaner tops with Alclad white aluminum. Testors canopy glue the headlight lenses and back window. Flattened the tires before sticking them on the plastic shafts. That interior sucks, look at the legroom! 🤣 So much wrong with it, but when the windows are dusted, won't see it. Maybe I'll paint the body orange tonight.
  12. Base kit is the Otaki Lamborghini Cheetah, a basic motorized model that is sort of collectible. This vehicle was a prototype that Lamborghini created, in the hopes of landing a US military contract, several were built, only one survived. It had a Chrysler V8, not a Lamborghini engine, so I thought it would be wicked to sort of stay authentic with the Dodge Hellcat engine. There is some good reference material, a few of the most useful photos I'll post up front. Suspension was torsion bars. Looks like they made the bell housing going down to the transmission. What I don't see is a radiator, fuel tank(s), exhaust, so will have to make that up. Found this on eBay, since the box is damaged from either insects or water, and the instructions were missing, got a relatively good deal. This Cheetah thread is how ChrisR saved my butt with the instructions. Not going to use the motor, lights, or roof rack. I got the box scanned, and a copy done in B&W at 10%, so I could draw the plan. Many aftermarket parts are rounded up, have more coming. Iceman Collectibles Hellcat engine, got two, plus his VR6 engine. Today (10/10/2020) I had to start! This is unusual for me, to quick assemble the major parts to see how it goes together, good thing I did. First off, the parts (not including the electrical pieces): Typical motorized simple chassis. First part to glue on was the top "A arms" part. First time using the sprue cutter, ironic the handles are orange! Interior tub is stuck together. Engine cover put on, tub set in place. Obviously the battery compartment will be cut out. Already not liking the interior, it's shallow for the wiring and switches, that needs to be modified. At this point I see the shortcomings, the engine cover does not come all the way down, the roll cage interferes with the dash, and the tub has no positive locators so it has about 1/4" room for error. I'm going to put Countach taillights in, since they are industrial looking anyway, they should look 100% better than the kit units. Another shortcoming is the windshield does not go all the way down. The canvas top has a nice texture, but I'm putting in photo-etch mesh, I see some sort of brace telegraphing a shape, so will put in another tube on the cage. I see one thing that is shouting at me, the side grills do what? There is a ton of interior tub work to do, as expected. So it's not like I don't have any unusual WIP waiting, like the Mercedes G666 BenutzerdefiniertHinterntretenJadgAktenvernichterGeländewagenLimousine and Auto Union C - Vanderbilt Cup 1937. ?
  13. Since I'm burned out on three hero WIP, wanted to knock a Box Stock out before year's end. Had the chance to get these two kits, boxes are not in good shape, the Testors was terrible to begin with so it will not be saved. Same mold, the Gunze has the battery terminals but no motor (have a few laying around if I wanted), instructions show light bulbs for the front lights but no bulbs, the Cheetah kit had some so I will snag those. I find it amusing how the Testors model is poorly built, missing mirrors, top not set in enough, light lenses askew. I will paint a different color, think it will compliment the car, and it won't be Testors paint. I'm going to paint the safety bumpers the same color, it was common at the time with other cars. I love this interior. Read about the body needing work here: Lamborghini Silhouette 1978?. Was inspired here: Lamborghini Silhouette, Gunze-Sangyo, 1/24. Yep, the sink marks are severe on the doors! The panel lines need some sanding, and some minor mold seams to clean up. The wheels are the worst part of the kit. I'm going to drill out the holes a little. One wheel has bad sink marks, so this will be fun to fix! Tempting to use Fujimi P7 tires, wider for the rear should be done, but that would disqualify for Box Stock, and that would lead to installing and engine, and then another hero project......
  14. Calling this done. How does the line in Christine go, "You can't polish a 💩"? Gunze - Sangyo motorized era. The real car, this one is the prototype. Beginning of the side light mandate, before battering ram bumpers were required. It sort of bombed, but just because of rarity, they are desirable. The kit doesn't do it justice. This is just before the Countach stole the show. Popular color was refrigerator white, bumpers were black. 😴 The right box was trashed, that is what was sacrificed, but was able to create a scale box from the remains. The red plastic bled through Tamiya putty, was concerned about bleed through. WIP: Testors (Gunze Sangyo) Lamborghini Spelling Bee Special (Silhouette) for the horror show. 😱 Don't look too close. Getting that Huracan color down right killed me. Cloudy lighting helped hide the defects. 😄 I figured it's easy enough to make a Carbon-Fiber replacement roof panel. Major (to me) correction was the front leading flare was moved back. The "phone dial" wheel holes have been drilled larger, but still the tires are totally wrong; Tamiya titanium gold. The G-S kit has the metal battery terminals, but not a motor; I fabricated single AA battery terminals to run the front turn signal lights. It's subpar for me, weathered like it was driven in the rain. Used the '68 Chevy hood for the studio. This is using the CA Pit Stop diorama It would be the background for a future Countach, Muria, etc. 😆
  15. A subject I would like to build, but come on, not a cartoon! They have some interesting subjects, too bad they are not realistic. If I'm going to spend precious time, it's gonna be accurate. Hobby Search is the source.
  16. I couldnt take photos of this until i had thoroughly cleaned my model room...so here he is finally...hope you like it! God bless!!!
  17. Hey, everyone! I bought this kit because i wanted to see why so many people out there still build this when there are the VERY nice Aoshima kits out there. Having built a couple of the Aoshima versions, i will go through this one, and do a mostly part-by-part direct comparison. Believe it or not, but there are some things that Fujimi did better. -Photo 2; This is how mine will look. -Photo 3-5; I think that Fujimis headlamps are detailed better...are easier to attach, but dont have a separate clear lens like Aoshimas. -Photo 6; The wavy line shows the size of the part....dont know why they did it this way....separate bits like the Aoshima kit is better. The arrows point to areas that are raised pretty decently...it will take a bit to get them level. -Photo 7; If you seat the side panel all the way in, you will end up with a large, uneven ledge, and neither the PE, or the plastic mesh bits will fit in.....so Dont seat it in all the way. Aoshima's Part is better in this aspect. -Photo 8; When this inner side vent part is attached, you will have to grind down, and fill in the seam of the area that the arrow is pointing to...it was a rather noticeable problem. Aoshimas part fit right in, with NO modifications, or unsightly seam. -Photo 9-11; These vents are actually EXCEPTIONALLY nice!! They fit in way easier than Aoshima's, and if you dont want to use PE mesh, these WILL still look totally real! Having built a couple of the Aoshima ones, and adding the PE mesh with SB details behind them, you have to look VERY hard to see through them, so its not really necessary to use the PE vents. Going by the kit parts, Fujimi wins when it comes to the detail, and fit of these vents....Aoshimas plastic vents are molded in smooth, clear plastic, and you have to apply a decal for the mesh pattern....NOT realistic in the slightest. -Photo 12; The doors, and windows in both kits are about the same, but Fujimis has deeper, more realistic door handle detail. -Photo 13; Both kits have pretty nice wipers as far as detail, and fit. -Photo 14; Both kits have decent vents, But Fujimis side vent has a separate trim piece which is nice if you dont want to mask it like you have to on the Aoshima version. The inside of the rocker vent just behind the front tyres, is a separate piece with the Fujimi kit, and is easier to attach mesh to. -Photo 15; This here is a no-brainer....Aoshima has SUPERIOR tailights by FAR!!!.....i'm not looking forward to doing these Fujimi ones....they arent good. -Photo 16; These have to be some of the nicest mirror lenses!....i usually have to strip them on ANY kit, and use chrome sticker as a replacement. Cant remember how Aoshimas were. -Photo 17; The exhaust tips in both kits are pretty close to the same, but the inside detail of the Fujimi one is a bit better....sharper. -Photo 18; This is the PE set that comes in the kit...i WONT be using it, as i'm using the plastic vents. -Photo 19; ...these are all the decals, and seat belt bits that came with the kit, and or the Hobby Design sets. -Photo 20; I basically only got these sets for a few parts.....WONT use most of them.
  18. As i am doing with my Fujimi Aventador, this too i will compare part by part, which kit is better -Aoshima, or Fujimi. I've built 15 Fujimi Countach's in my time, and i actually like this kit waaaay better for the reasons you will learn. I'm not concerned about undercarriage detail, but everything else WILL be uber detailed! -Photo 2; This is how mine will hopefully look when done......i'm usually heck with white -my nemesis. -Photo 3; Heres the start of the undercarriage parts...All the Sharpie marks are molded-in hoses, and pipes that i will be grinding away.Fujimi wins in the engine compartment detail...they have a complete engine/ suspension. However, Aoshima added just enough clever design details, that done the right way, this engine bay will still look very realistic! -Photo 4; Aoshimas distributor totally wins over Fujimi!....it comes pre-drilled!!...anybody whose tried to wire up a V12 distributor will REALLY appreciate this! -Photo 5; The details of the engine bits are very crisp, but..... -Photo 6; ....in order to seat the intake all the way down, this area on BOTH sides needs to be cut back. If you dont, this part will hit the valve covers, which can cause the hood to NOT close all the way. -Photo 7; The side on the left is properly adjusted....see how horrible the right side looks. -Photo 8; see?...the clearance is perfect now(right side now). -Photo 9; Aoshima wins here as well....pre-drilled valve covers -Nice!! -Photo 10; Both kits are about the same with these bits. The shocks both have their own different details, but are equal to me. -Photo 11&12; I had already pre-assembled these undercarriage bits, and primered them black. It has the usual detail of front suspension bits, but a simplified rear suspension area. The lower half of the engine, and tranny are a separate part. As you can see, they are still pretty nice, but as stated before, Fujimi wins over this. Aoshima has the two tow loops in the front....Fujimi doesnt. -Photo 13; After all the other bits are attached, it will look pretty believable. -Photo 14; These tyres, and wheels are waaay better than Fujimis, which are undersized, and too narrow. Aoshimas wheels are far cleaner too.
  19. Hey, everyone!, its been a while since i've posted here, but the Reventon i finished a while ago is finally here....enjoy!
  20. Hey, everyone!, This is my Fujimi Lamborghini Reventon build......obviously...lol, Even though its only a curbside, I will be detailing the interior to make it look like the real car, since things are missing, or not done right. I even have a technique that replicates Lamborghinis special leather called; Alcantara. I will also show how I take a one-piece engine, and still make it look convincingly real. Hope you enjoy!
  21. Small detour from building a 1/8 Ferrari, this Lambo. Will be fairly straight OOB I am going to go Splash Lava Orange with it, here are my inspirations
  22. Hey everybody! Thank you all for following my Pagani!!, now its time to get back to these little beauties......hope you stop in!!
  23. Hi everyone, For the first time in about a year I'm starting a new kit. This is also the first time I am posting on a forum, so keep that in mind. I got myself the full engine kit of the Veneno (very hard and expensive to come by in Germany) My hopes are maybe a few tips, a few people who like to stick around and maybe someone I can talk model stuff with My skills are rusty and never been a pro. The kit will be hand-printed...no spray cans or airbrush (no location)
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