robertburns Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Robert, here is a though that may get you past the snag on your grille design. What if you had a photo etched grille made? Micro Etch Technologies does work for individuals.Hi Tim. Thank you, I'll try them for the 88-91 Cv because I can't think of a better way to do it. For this one, the thicker grill might work. I'm getting the grill parts tomorrow and will photograph it to see if it at least looks right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 (edited) Parts came off the printer today. I'll be getting them tomorrow and will start working on them. Edited November 21, 2016 by robertburns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RomanII Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 This looks amazing! I can hardly believe I am looking at an accurate scale replica of the Crown Vic. So many attempts have been made over the years and none have come close on accuracy. Best of luck with the continuation of this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimStangohr Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Looking good. Do you plan to paint this? I was reading on the forums some about the topic of "post production finishing". All of the frosted parts have vegetable oil sprayed on them to give the plastic more clarity. It is recommended that they be washed in a tub of dish soap and scrubbed with a toothbrush. Guys were saying that soaking overnight helps, and adding some vinegar will help break up the oil even more. They say that some solvents will attack polyacrylics. But some guys have used some pretty harsh chemicals on the printed parts (which would attack/destroy styrene). They don't attack the polyacrylics in the short term, but who knows about the long term.They had also said that clearcoating the parts helps fill print lines. And it can give the paint "tooth", if you plan to paint them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimStangohr Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Also they were saying that as a general rule the plastic parts are not shipped fully cured. As a result, they can be sticky when painted. The best recommended way to get them cured is with UVA light. Incidentally, reptiles in captivity need UVA light to function at their best, so you can pick up a UVA bulb at a pet store, or, on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Reptispa-Basking-Spot-Lamp-Watts/dp/B00U1WOFRG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479525648&sr=8-4&keywords=uva+bulb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Looking good. Do you plan to paint this? I was reading on the forums some about the topic of "post production finishing". All of the frosted parts have vegetable oil sprayed on them to give the plastic more clarity. It is recommended that they be washed in a tub of dish soap and scrubbed with a toothbrush. Guys were saying that soaking overnight helps, and adding some vinegar will help break up the oil even more. They say that some solvents will attack polyacrylics. But some guys have used some pretty harsh chemicals on the printed parts (which would attack/destroy styrene). They don't attack the polyacrylics in the short term, but who knows about the long term.They had also said that clearcoating the parts helps fill print lines. And it can give the paint "tooth", if you plan to paint them.thanks! Yes, I'll paint it because I want the castings to be glossy. The material is Watershed 11122, which polishes easily to a rock hard finish, so I'll polish the glass parts. Veg oil in this case would screw with the primer so I can't use anything like that. These parts will be as clean as possible. No washing needed due to the alcohol scrub bath after removal from the 3d resin in the printer. Ive never had anything react badly to printed parts. I use superglues, exceleraters, acrylic clean, paints, primers, etc. Plastic solvent won't work as a glue, but UV solvent glue will. I've stored parts for 8 years with no ill affect. Clearcoating works, as does primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Also they were saying that as a general rule the plastic parts are not shipped fully cured. As a result, they can be sticky when painted. The best recommended way to get them cured is with UVA light. Incidentally, reptiles in captivity need UVA light to function at their best, so you can pick up a UVA bulb at a pet store, or, on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Reptispa-Basking-Spot-Lamp-Watts/dp/B00U1WOFRG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479525648&sr=8-4&keywords=uva+bulbit's possible, but I've never heard that. These parts got a UV session for an hour. They felt tacky for a few hours but are solid now. The only only issues with 3D SLA printing are: 1. that it is pricey at this time for one offs2. A lot of sanding layer lines for most printers (unless you use a super high resolution printer where you can't see the lines. I've used these for cockpits)3. not archival. They sag over time unless you support it with other parts or material. FDM and SLS do not have this problem, but don't have the same detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 I don't have a lot of Box Body images, but if my website helps at all, I will be happy: www.crownvicsetc.comI do have some sales brochures if scans will help at all.I'll check it out, thanks! i have a feeling that the 88-89 used the same interior as the 79-87, so I have to find an 88-89 to verify this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 I'm sure this will be a popular model to have and I'm amazed at the lengths you going to ending up with an injection molded product! I'd be interested in seeing how the body comes from a 3D printer as I'm just beginning to have some parts made that way.thank you Foxer. Photos are above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Not necessarily a buyer of this model but I am really impressed with how you are developing it. Hoping that the future of model building is one where a model builder could actually design their "holy grail" and not have to hope that a model company decided to tool up that long awaited kit. thank you Mike. It's almost like that now, we just have to crowd fund a bit if a single person is not willing to cover their whole cost. Two people cut the cost in half. A local club or Facebook group, more so. It's also getting cheaper every year. This would have cost a lot more 10 years ago and nearly impossible 15 years ago. Since I hire out professionals, my costs are higher, but some builders do CAD. Some have 3D printers. Some mold and cast. If you look hard enough, you can find people willing to chip in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luc Janssens Posted November 21, 2016 Share Posted November 21, 2016 Looks very promising, is it 1/25th scale, cuz it "looks" bigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 The Lindberg chassis fits so far. The backs of the front wheel wells need to be shaved. The front and back of the chassis need to be trimmed to fit. With the body done, I'm now able to make the interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Quickie Comparison shots with the next gen CV. Will take more shots when I get a body that's not cut up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Wow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
av405 Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 I'm beyond excited for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 I don't like the grille and will redo it. It looks a little squat. i think I can add some thickness to the turn signals and lower the bottom line of the grille Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 That looks really good. I agree that the bumper is too close to the headlights. The other thing that jumped out at me is the gap around the fuel door. It seems awfully wide and deep. The door lines seem much more subtle (which to me looks better). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plasticfanatic Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 Ohhhh YES, this is looking fantastic, great job, I want at least two when they become available, again superb work and looking forward for more updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berserkerr Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I need a few of these in my life. any updates on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
am73grand Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 This is AMAZING work! I cannot wait to get one once you start casting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I need a few of these in my life. any updates on this? update # 1. I tried to get an estimate for injection molding at a low volume rapid injection molding shop. I didn't know they need .STP files. 3D printing files are commonly .STLs. My CADrafter is getting a program to be able to output the new files. Hopefully that's done soon because I can't wait to get the styrene numbers. update # 2. Gas door fixed. Front grille fixed. The front nose needs holes instead of pins (bumper has pins) so that will be fixed today. Then hopefully back to the printer tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertburns Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 What are your opinions about the turn signals molded to the grille? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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