Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Questions About Microscale Industries Decal Film


Recommended Posts

I recently finished the Monogram Essex Cobra. The finished product was the worst job I've done since returning the hobby.

I coated the decals with Micro Industries Decal Film. When I applied them, there was residue from the decal film on the edge of each decal. I call them decal film buggers. Some wiped off with a damp Q-tip, but the final results were pretty poor.

When I applied the film, I just painted it on with a small flat brush that I use exclusively for decal work. I applied it liberally to the sheet and the didn't try to stay away from the edges of the decals. Should I be applying it with the brush? Should I try to apply it as close to the edge of each individual decal as possible and not get any beyond the edge?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From https://www.michtoy.com/item-MSI-12-Microscale__Micro_Liquid_Decal_Film.html

"Everyone Should Have Micro Liquid Decal Film Who Models And Uses Decals. Especially If You Have Been At It For Some Time. The Typical Decal Scrap Box Is Not The Best Place To Store Decals. Exposed To Air, Sunlight, And Moisture, Great Swings Of Temperature Or General Abuse, And Decals Will Go Bad. Or Maybe You Just Always Had Trouble Putting On Thin Stripes. Micro Liquid Decal Film Solves All Of Those Problems And Makes A Decal Which For Whatever Reason Is Bad, Work Again Just Like New Almost Immediately. Of Course If You Have Already Put It In Water It Is Too Late. So If You Have Some Old Decals You Really Have To Use, Coat Them With Micro Liquid Decal Film To Be Sure. Or If There Is Any Indication That You Might Have A Problem, Don't Take A Chance, You Can Solve The Problem On The Spot. Simply Take A Small Brush And Coat The Image On The Decal You Want To Use. Allow To Dry For 20 Minutes. Apply The Decal As Usual. It's That Simple."

So it looks like the product you're using is meant to be applied to old decals to make them usable. The film you are seeing is meant to protect the decal. What I think you are trying to use is a decal setting solution such as Microsol http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD any of the others.

What is the decal film supposed to do?

I use Microscale decal softening solution and it works great.  Smells a bit of vinigar which makes me think one could use watered down vinager to soften em as well?

 I currently have a bottle of Testers decal setting solution and the ingredients are listed as citric acid so you are probably correct although I imagine the ph level would be the important thing to get right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are scared of the decals shattering in water, the decal film is a good way to give you some hope of getting usable decals. It doesn't need to be applied thickly. Thin coats are best. I don't usually use the Microscale solution anymore though. In most cases, I airbrush some Future on the decals, or even a gloss coat of lacquer. Both dry much faster and go on much thinner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently finished the Monogram Essex Cobra. The finished product was the worst job I've done since returning the hobby.

I coated the decals with Micro Industries Decal Film. When I applied them, there was residue from the decal film on the edge of each decal. I call them decal film buggers. Some wiped off with a damp Q-tip, but the final results were pretty poor.

When I applied the film, I just painted it on with a small flat brush that I use exclusively for decal work. I applied it liberally to the sheet and the didn't try to stay away from the edges of the decals. Should I be applying it with the brush? Should I try to apply it as close to the edge of each individual decal as possible and not get any beyond the edge?

I never tried to use it just to coat the decal images. I simply brush-paint several coats over the entire decal sheet. When I am ready to apply the decals I just cut out each decal out of the sheet, trimming the paper as close to the image as possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 I currently have a bottle of Testers decal setting solution and the ingredients are listed as citric acid so you are probably correct although I imagine the ph level would be the important thing to get right.

Citric Acid or Acetic Acid?  I have worked with various decal setting solutions using Acetic Acid but I have never encountered one using Citric Acid.

Microscale has a nice document describing the usage of their various products. http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/graphics/Instructions/MSISysteminstr.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Citric Acid or Acetic Acid?  I have worked with various decal setting solutions using Acetic Acid but I have never encountered one using Citric Acid.

Microscale has a nice document describing the usage of their various products. http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/graphics/Instructions/MSISysteminstr.pdf

It could be acetic acid, at work I just a contractor finish a chemical cleaning of some pipes and they use citric acid so I may have had that on my mind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...