Chroming Trim: Fender Wells-Roofline Rain Gutters-Driver/Passenger Door Windows etc

[69NovaYenko]

I was wondering  if anyone had any tips on how to do the thin chrome trim around fender wells, roof-line rain gutters, side window trim etc. Foiling front and rear windshield frames can be challenging depending of the vehicle. But, the truth of the matter is generally fend well, rail gutter, side window etc. trim is so thin and has so many curves, twist and turns that attempting to Bare Metal Foil them can quickly turn a nice paint job into a disaster with the slip of the Xacto blade.  There has to be some method that is easier and less hazardous to a freshly finished paint job.

I though about using 1/16 inch Chartpak graphic tape. It comes in a "chrome/silver" finish. And, it creates a thin, precisely spaced line. It will stick well, it will conform somewhat to the curves and turns and more importantly it will not ruin your paint job when you make a mistake. Has anyone tried this and if so how did it turn out?

Any and all suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

Edited May 26, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[Harry P.]

That's a good way to go. Basically you can't mess up. If you do, just pull it off and try again. But I wonder about long-term adhesion, especially around tight radii. Personally, I'd stick with BMF.

[69NovaYenko]

I clear coat over my bare metal foil to protect it and to help it stay where I want it. Wouldn't the clear coat do the same with the tape (provided its adhered properly from the start)?

Edited May 26, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[Harry P.]

Maybe. But for me, BMF is the only way to go. But that's just me.

[High octane]

You clear coat your BMF to protect it, from what? do you display your built models outside of the house? I did my first BMF job in the early 80's and it still looks great.

[peteski]

In situations like that I use thin strips of masking tape placed along the edges of the molding. Then I apply BMF burnishing it well onto the molding (which is between the strips of tape).  When I use the knife to trim, it easily follows the masking tape edge.  Last I peel off the masking tape with the leftover BMF.

[Snake45]

Silver Sharpie, Silver Sharpie, Silver Sharpie! The best thing to happen to car modeling since the X-acto knife. Quick, clean, easy, cheap, dries fast, what's not to like? I buy 'em in 4-packs at Walmart.

A lot of window trim wasn't chrome anyway. It was stainless steel or aluminum, so you don't really need a super-bright chrome for this kind of thing.

If they quit making silver Sharpies, I might have to quit car modeling and go back to airplanes.

[StevenGuthmiller]

In situations like that I use thin strips of masking tape placed along the edges of the molding. Then I apply BMF burnishing it well onto the molding (which is between the strips of tape).  When I use the knife to trim, it easily follows the masking tape edge.  Last I peel off the masking tape with the leftover BMF.

This is sort of the way I do it too.

I use very thin strips of blue painters tape to lay along the edge of the foil "after" it's applied to give an edge to run your blade against.

The contrasting blue color against the foil helps as well.

This also works great for straight pieces where the trim is not well defined.

Works especially well for curved areas.

But it does take a little fussing to get it curved around something tight like fender well trim.

Works nicely though.

 

Steve

 

[69NovaYenko]

Love all the great suggestions please keep them coming.

Edited May 26, 2016 by 69NovaYenko

[espo]

I'll have to try the tape method. If you don't already you might think about out lining the trim with a #11 blade during your prep before priming your model. Faint moldings like window and side trim go away with very little paint. This will leave you an edge to work with when it comes time for foil.   

[gtx6970]

I'll have to try the tape method. If you don't already you might think about out lining the trim with a #11 blade during your prep before priming your model. Faint moldings like window and side trim go away with very little paint. This will leave you an edge to

 

work with when it comes time for foil.   

This how I've been doing it for the past few years...makes it much easier imo

[sbk]

..... If you don't already you might think about out lining the trim with a #11 blade during your prep before priming your model. Faint moldings like window and side trim go away with very little paint. This will leave you an edge to work with when it comes time for foil.   

This is what I was thinking, too. But, if you do it at the prep stage, there's no turning back later on. A good way to start the scribe would be to use a set of dividers with one needle extending longer than the other. Let the longer needle follow the inner edge the wheel opening, & the other needle will lightly scribe the body parallel to the opening. Unfortunately, some wheel well trim is not parallel all the way around & gets narrower on the ends. With a little practice you can compensate by tilting the dividers a bit to decrease the distance on each end. Then, deepen the line a bit more by using an X-acto knife. Tape seems like a good idea, too.

I use dividers a lot for re-scribing door lines to match the shape of a modified side window.

Edited May 26, 2016 by sbk

[69NovaYenko]

This is what I was thinking, too. But, if you do it at the prep stage, there's no turning back later on. A good way to start the scribe would be to use a set of dividers with one needle extending longer than the other. Let the longer needle follow the inner edge the wheel opening, & the other needle will lightly scribe the body parallel to the opening. Unfortunately, some wheel well trim is not parallel all the way around & gets narrower on the ends. With a little practice you can compensate by tilting the dividers a bit to decrease the distance on each end. Then, deepen the line a bit more by using an X-acto knife. Tape seems like a good idea, too.

I use dividers a lot for re-scribing door lines to match the shape of a modified side window.

SBK

That looks like an interesting way to resolve the issue. Thanks for sharing that technique.

Edited May 31, 2016 by 69NovaYenko