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Posted

Ok I just got started trying to use craft paints with my airbrush, need some help, went thru all the videos on utube and none explained problems, just how glossy they turn out. Heres the problem, sprayed the first mist coat and it looked good, now the second mist coat went on and out of nowhere spots started forming like there was oil on it. so I wiped it off and started over, same results!!! Any one got anything?

Thanks

Robert

Posted

I have done some work with craft paints with very mixed results.  I shot one color and it came out really well, but when I switched to the second color (same company) it did just as you described.  I have found I usually have better luck if I use a craft acrylic thinner rather than an alcohol/water mix; although I have got some really good results with alcohol/water.  Seems to me this may have something to do with the different pigments used for the colors.  Sorry, I can't be of much more help.  On my paint shelf I have around 35-40 different colors, so I will be doing a lot of experimenting.

Posted

The only thing I use craft paints on is chassis pieces and maybe some interior pieces. I usually top it with flat or semigloss acrylic clear, which I mix myself.

Posted

Thanks.. I've done some more testing, I think I may have been to thin with my mix, also don't seem to be getting the "shine" that I saw on utube....Will keep at it.

 

 

Robert

Posted

About the only thing I use now is craft paint I have mix it with windex window cleaner that has ammonia mixing it 50/50  or 60 windex 40 paint some will come with a real nice shine other use Walmart clear. Also the testor's Aztec paint is real nice to work with you can make some custom colors mixing the pearl and transparent colors together again using the windex to thin it. The windex helps to bond the paint to the primer better

Posted (edited)

Robert, use Pledge with Future as a clear coat. Some people even mix it in the paint. It will also protect the paint. Heres an example:

DSCN1505.thumb.jpg.61cb1e86822449517d6cc

Edited by my66s55
Posted

Robert, use Pledge with Future as a clear coat. Some people even mix it in the paint. It will also protect the paint. Heres an example:

Yes, I was using Future to thin the paint, not sure why it didn't shine. Still working on it, may take some time to master.

Robert

Posted

Not all the water-based acrylic paints are compatible.  There are several different formulas and they are incompatible.  Maybe the brand you use is not compatible with Future floor finish?

Posted

I recently painted a body with acrylic paint mixed with future and then cleared with future. When spraying the paint I realized it had to go on very slow and I had to build it up over several coats. It turned out good however the future clear coat began to crack a little after a few months. Personally I'm leaving craft acrylics for other uses even though I had better results than expected with the paint portion. I just painted a body 50:50 mix Testors Enamel and lacquer thinner (Don Yost method, start spraying and don't stop until your done) and the results were 10x better than craft acrylics.

Posted

The sedan delivery was painted with Liquitex heavy body tube paint thinned with Liquitex airbrush medium and cleared with Future applied with a foam brush.

Posted (edited)

Since I started this trial run with the craft paints its been pretty much NOT my cup of tea, and its still not. I tip my hat  to those who CAN use them. I will be staying with Testors enamels thinned with lac thinner . I don't show my builds at contest so all I have to please is myself. But its has been fun. Thanks ..

 

By the way, I was using the Folk Art brand, Super Tech blue washer fluid, and Future acr. Spraying in the range of 20-30 psi.

 

Robert

Edited by Vintage Stock
Posted

I use the craft acrylics almost exclusively now. I thin with either Testors acryl thinner or distilled water. But I don't rely on the sheen listed on the bottle. I use the clear that applies, gloss, semi gloss or flat. Really the acrylics are fragile without a clear coat. I usually spray most paints between 15 and 20 PSI. I did try thinning Apple Barrel paint from Walmart with alcohol and it was not compatible. Never tried it with Folk Art or in lesser quantities. The spots that seem like oil are from being too thin. But once dry and re coated they should not show. and the mix can be fattened. I do not mix in the cup of my gravity feed airbrush. I've seen people show doing it in youtube videos but I couldn't get it to work. I find it easier and better to just put the paint in a jar and flush the airbrush then remix the paint and pour it back in. 

I use Folk Art, Apple Barrel and Americana craft paints and combine them with good results.

In my opinion the craft paints work better than Testors Model Master Arcryl paints. The Testors paints tend to dry in my airbush really fast and leave a latex film that requires complete disassembly and roto routing on the airbrush tip. With the craft paints I just put the cap on the cup and use a brush dipped in Testors universal acrylic cleaner to clean the needle tip and I can leave it sit until the part is ready for another coat, usually within 10 minutes. If I try the same with the Testors MM paint that film still forms in the cup and will be drawn into the tip.

I also haven't had a problem masking over craft paints, but with the Testors Model Master acrylics I've had them peel when removing masking. I've never used the Testors Aztec paint, is it the same as their Model Master acrylics?

The MM silver is strange stuff. Looks like chrome if used over black but otherwise is a very odd shade of silver.

When odor isn't an Issue I like airbrushing oil based enamels like Rustoleum. 

Posted

Thanks Doug, I spent a couple of hours today trying again to get a decent finish, I got the too thin part figured out, but now I'm having a time with orange peel... I thinned some black met. with the future and it still dried flat and rough... still trucking on but not giving up the enamels...YET

 

Robert

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