Alclad Chrome - ARRRRGGHHH!!!!!

[newbie77]

Hi guys,

So I'm having a nightmare with trying to get a good finish with Alclad Chrome. I think I'e tried just about every variable, option, method I can find and I just can't seem to get a mirror, chrome finish.

I've tried alclad gloss black as a base, absolutely perfect finish. I've tried a white base coat with a clear over the top to give a super glossy white base. I've changed pressures, changed flow mixtures, drying times, everything I can think of and each time i get a dull, silver finish.

A new issue I'm getting is the airbrush is clogging as I'm painting, so half the time I'm just getting air, then if i increase the mix I get a big blob of paint sprayed out. I'm also getting some spatter. I'm using a Badger sotar 20/20, fine needle, about 10-12 psi.

Sorry for what are some probably terribly obvious mistakes, I'm new to airbrushing, very new to alclad but desperate to learn and improve and I know someone here will be able to tell me where I'm going wrong!

Many thanks

Jon

Edited June 28, 2016 by newbie77

[Tesla]

Here's a link on this forum: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105597-alclad-ll-chrome-what-am-i-doing-wrong/

It's one of many that can be referenced

[10thumbs]

Hello Jon,  I've read lots of hints and tips about Alclad chrome and I still can't do it well.  In the meantime, I've stopped using Alclad chrome on my models.  Problem solved. 

[peteski]

Could the bottle of the chrome paint have simply gone bad?  I have had Polished Brass go bad where it started clumping no matter how hard I shook or mixed the paint the clumps would not dissipate. Are you keeping the airbrush nozzle open wide enough for the metal flakes to go through it?

[High octane]

While I haven't tried Alclad, I have tried and used Spaz-Stix with good results on both plastic & resin parts. Of course I use a "rattle can" as I haven't used my air-brush in many years and recently sold my air-brushes & compressor.

[newbie77]

Hello Jon,  I've read lots of hints and tips about Alclad chrome and I still can't do it well.  In the meantime, I've stopped using Alclad chrome on my models.  Problem solved. 

 10thumbs - that's the best answer ever!!

Sadly I think you might be right though 

[newbie77]

Could the bottle of the chrome paint have simply gone bad?  I have had Polished Brass go bad where it started clumping no matter how hard I shook or mixed the paint the clumps would not dissipate. Are you keeping the airbrush nozzle open wide enough for the metal flakes to go through it?

I only bought it a couple of weeks ago so I'd hope not, but i guess it is possible.

So, interesting thing about the nozzle - i t may be completely unrelated, but the first couple of times i tried i set the mix ratio very to be very light, so the throw on the trigger was short. But it didn't block or splatter. After I got bad results with that I watched a few more vids (including the one on the Alclad site) where it suggested the paint should go on thick, just short of running. So I increased the mix and got just as bad results but now it blocks and splutters - which makes no sense to me at all. 

[peteski]

Silly question: is the airbrush really clean?

The chrome paint needs to go on almost dry - that is why they recommend very low pressure and spraying close to the model.  When I do it, when the paint first hits the model it looks like matte aluminum, then as it dries, the little metallic platelets align with the surface of the model and it becomes "chromey" looking.  You can actually see it turn into chrome finish right in front of your eyes.

Edited June 30, 2016 by peteski

[Jim Whalen]

A gravity-fed airbrush at the lowest setting you can go without it spitting, spray at a low angle a reasonable distance from the pieces and very lightly build up the coats.  If you get a dull finish you have put too much on.  I usually spray the chrome about an hour after I have put the Alclad black base on.  You will get a reflective finish but have to accept you won't get an extremely shiny finish like kit chrome but for some applications it looks much more realistic.

The exhaust pipes on this '40 Ford chassis were done using Alclad Chrome and finished with their aquagloss clear:

[Harry P.]

Try Spaz Stix. It comes in a spray can, so no messing around with an airbrush needed. The results are very close to chrome, IMO. The chrome on the Bentley and the RR grille shell, the RR headlights, and the wheels on the Mercedes were done with Spaz Stix.

[JTalmage]

I just used Spaz-Stix in a can recently. I tried to clear coat it after I sprayed it. Looked like garbage. I decided I was going to leave it alone this time when I sprayed it on some suspension components to a kit I'm building now. Only to find out it buffs like a metalizer (I did not know this!) so I am tempted to clearcoat it again! My parts look great now but I don't want to mess them up with clear again!

[Harry P.]

No clear needed over Spaz Stix. That will just mess up the effect.

[JTalmage]

Good thing you told me that! one thing I noticed though, it buffs right thru to the basecoat if you buff on it too much!

[Harry P.]

There's no need to buff it, either. All the examples I posted here are straight out of the can and nothing else done.

[JTalmage]

I am definitely getting different results than you. I am using the rattle can as well. 

[Harry P.]

The trick is to only spray on a little bit. Spray on too much and the chrome effect is lost, and it just winds up looking like silver paint. Practice on some scrap parts until you get the hang of it. The secret is to lay down only a light coat.

[newbie77]

Sadly in my case I can't get Spaz Stix over this side of the pond other than in a bottle for an airbrush.

I'll give the alclad another go following the advice here and see how that turns out - thanks!

Otherwise - the other thing I tried last night was graphite powder, with surprisingly good results. I only did a quick try but it came out shiny which is a first for me!! The only thing I'm not sure about is how to seal it - would you suggest Pledge or would a clear coat lacquer be ok?

[Impalow]

Heres my .02 on this...

What I have been doing, and it seems to work really well is using duplicolor enamel gloss black, followed by duplicolor clear straight from the can...(something i read on here somewhere)  The clear occasionally fogs/frosts but i keep a heat gun next to me when i paint, a quick gentle hit with that and the frosting goes away.   As soon as i set down the can of clear i get the airbrush ready to shoot the alclad.... I try to shoot the alclad within 10-15minutes of the clear being shot, this way it is still somewhat soft and the solvents in the alclad can do their job effectively.   Super light almost non existent coats... building up very slowly until you see the chrome effect appear. Once it looks like chrome, stop.... less is more. On a microscopic level, that shiny gloss black needs to shine through. Over apply the Alclad and it fills in all those little gaps and you have silver paint.  Since you put it on so dry and light, there is dusty overspray on the part when you are done, I have been lightly dusting parts with a Q-tip after 24hours and it really brings them to life. 

This is surprisingly quick and pretty durable for handling...  

All of this chrome was done with this technique... in one evening.... no top coat.

[High octane]

No clear needed over Spaz Stix. That will just mess up the effect.

Ditto!

[newbie77]

Impalo - seeing your engine just makes me want to cry.....

[Quick GMC]

I have had the best results with Alclad by doing an incredibly light mist at the most severe angle possible, as parallel you can get with the piece. I end up doing probably 20 passes over each part, but with only a tiny bit coming out each time. You don't need super duper low PSI, but you can't have it too high either or it will just dust up. I go by look and feel now, and don't pay attention to the actual PSI as much. 

 

[10thumbs]

Some really good tips here guys!

Jon, let's try super thin coats with our airbrushes and see what happens. 

To date, according to the new info here, all of my applications were too thickly applied.  This is the first time I've realised also, many more thin coats could be the clue.

[Quick GMC]

Some really good tips here guys!

Jon, let's try super thin coats with our airbrushes and see what happens. 

To date, according to the new info here, all of my applications were too thickly applied.  This is the first time I've realised also, many more thin coats could be the clue.

If you try an spray it on like a regular color, it will be hazy and dull. Very thin coats. Also, after it dries, I do a light buff with a Kleenex, just by itself. it does help a little and won't damage the finish. 

[carrucha]

Last year I used Alclad on a set of valve covers.  I used Testors enamel gloss black as a base and allowed it to cure for at least a week.  I then airbrushed Alclad in thin coats at a low air pressure.  You need to check the progress after each coat until you reached the finish you want.  Once it seems to look like chrome, stop.  Any more coats will ruin the chrome finish.  You might be tempted to add another coat to make it more like kit chrome but don't.  This process takes a while. Take your time and don't rush it.   I was surprised that it took me 30-45 minutes to paint a set of valve covers.  You need to remember that the best Alclad finish will never be as good as kit chrome.

[newbie77]

Some really good tips here guys!

Jon, let's try super thin coats with our airbrushes and see what happens. 

To date, according to the new info here, all of my applications were too thickly applied.  This is the first time I've realised also, many more thin coats could be the clue.

I will if you will 

Thanks so much for all the advice guys, I really appreciate it. I'm going to give it a go and will let you know how I get on