Jump to content
Forum will be Offline for Server Maintenance ×
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Datsun 510 Pro/Stock "SWEET PAIN" COMPLETED BUILD


Recommended Posts

 

Hi guys,

Thanks you for comments,Leonard,John and Edgar. No one has a proposal in which class this car can fit into ? , Anyway, we'll go ahead with some new pictures of the painting and assembly of the bodywork.

The first picture shows the primed body,tamiya white fine surface primer is used.

The taillights lenses are masked off so i still have them clear.

IMG_1037.thumb.JPG.b5840f245947500637589

Here is the body painted and also decaled and the red stripe with the thin white line over the hole body is painted.

it is also one layer of clear over the body, only for decals should stay in good condition. As you can see , the surface is a little rough so far, but after a little sanding between clearcote layers as you build up a nice and smooth varnish that ultimately did not need much polishing , because the paint is already very smooth .

IMG_1039.thumb.JPG.76f160964bf69d925f170IMG_1040.thumb.JPG.3aa5f517c9b85a0ac9f1cIMG_1041.thumb.JPG.90cdf08474b26767bec91

I have done a impression from a uncut body and making a support/stand for the body,that i will polish now.

This is a must,because the body is so fragile when it is cut open like this,and when you do the polish and

want to rub up the shine you have to rub a little harder and the body would just get broken if it does not have the support.

DSC_0977.thumb.JPG.d6005f61f4bac2cad9c0e

Edited by LeadFred
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here you see the uncut body that i use for the impression.

DSC_0978.thumb.JPG.3b859298d30ff683dad86

Now,i can polish the fragile body,without worry to broke anything.

IMG_1044.thumb.JPG.69baf04ee702d20ae8c19

I do not want to sand to deep on the first layer of gloss as you see,

IMG_1048.thumb.JPG.0b6cf8c1879005253479f

Here you see the third layer if gloss and it is sanded down to a smooth flat finish,

IMG_1049.thumb.JPG.6855a87d6cfd7de07c0a3

Here is the final layer (4) of gloss, a little bit moore polish,just little,and the finish is ok.

IMG_1050.thumb.JPG.18237e965b3bc5783fa55

 

Edited by LeadFred
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some more pictures when the body is on the chassi.

One thing about this body is that it was not symmetric ,

and I discovered it too late, so I pulled out the stripes from the roof position , so they came not in the middle of the rear panel , so that's why it is a compromise of the stripes on the rearpanel.. But fortunately, there will be more details that will focus later in the build, so this will probably be pretty good in the end.

IMG_1053.thumb.JPG.c8cbba5f4d68de303aac6

You can see that the right stripe is a little bit thinner than the left side :(

Some test fits on the chassi.

IMG_1054.thumb.JPG.828a6c4d180e9a8f08eac

IMG_1055.thumb.JPG.13b5fbae90a8b2dfcaeeb

Ok guys, this is it,for the moment, strange that i have to do 3 updates to get all photos upploaded that i want do show you,

Comments are welcome,

 

Fred.

 

Edited by LeadFred
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Bill.

The picture of the rearpanel was a very close-up picture,but i can show you another picture,and if you think that there will be mountings for a parachute that will take some focus from the spotlight,perhaps the stripe does´nt make such a big notice,If so.......i will put some decals over it.

Hope this is a picture that is more "natural" of the rear panel.

Fred

 

DSC_0981.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again all of you,

and thanks for comments,Bill,Vince,Carl,Kerry,Walter,John,Dan !

When the body is glued/fixed to the chassie the assembly of the doors and front begins.

It was quite difficult to get the doors in place, while they should be placed nicely in the closed position and at the same time be opened. Anyway, so I installed some hinge made of metal pins and then I 'll catch on rod ends , which I then assemble in the door. I made a little larger hole in the door where the rod ends to be attached , just to bond with an epoxy adhesive. then I can only catch on rod ends onto the metal pin and ,,,then fit on the door and place the door closed in the body , and let the epoxy glue harden. This way, everything is in the correct position,Open or closed .

IMG_1057.thumb.JPG.8ae84f17cca99a43e0cc4

Here i testfit the door.

IMG_1058.thumb.JPG.8ea565db339aa583e28b2

The holes in the door are there.

IMG_1063.thumb.JPG.5229da76aecd3d1eaab3a

The Metalpins glued in place. I have used a soft metal pin, so i can adjust the hinge if i need.

IMG_1090.thumb.JPG.2c64e0e609e205a4b42d1

Sorry for the bad picture,but you can see that the rod ends are mounted in the door and it all work.

IMG_1088.thumb.JPG.9913e45bfc1fa93cdf50c

From another angle.

IMG_1095.thumb.JPG.17aa85ab96b4f3cf9297a

The front are just mocked up to see that it will fit.

IMG_1097.thumb.JPG.5718bab9d343b1ada3d8b

Next move will be to paint the doors and front in the same color,and i will use the same diluted paint and, exactly the same pressure when i do this painting as the earlier painting,that is very important when you paint a metallic paint in more stages than once.

Just because you can easily get a shade of difference if you are unlucky.

Normally, i spray the entire body at the same time. but i knew that i would have to do it over again after fitting the doors and front.

Paint rubbed off easily when you have to use your fingers on the panels .

Comments are welcome,

Fred

Edited by LeadFred
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Thank you, Dale Yes, indeed it is . I will compile an inventory of all the parts that I have used for this construction , and it will also contain what I scratch myself. But that list will be in the last uppdate for this build. Thanks again. Glad you like my little dragcar . Fred

Edited by LeadFred
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im building a 1/12 Camaro to X275 class specs. It will be a single turbo set up, with the turbo being placed in the center, right behind the front spoiler. So I will make two independent cooling systems for each side of the engine. In through the cylinder head, out through the block.  That could be a consideration for you also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you, Dave and John.

-John, i have to build a small scratch build radiator. I have already done the mounting for the radiator in the front of the Tubeframe. One of the most tricky mounting of this build is just to mount the radiator. Because i have very limited space left between the engine and the front/grille. If i place the radiator too near the grille, it Will push out the front and it Will be to much space between the Doors and fenders. So i guess i Will sweat a lot to get it right.

One of My goal, When i Cut up a body like this is that the body should Look realistic in both closed and Open Doors/panels. It would be easier if i had took a Bigger car/body.

so this is a challenge for me.

My plan in the future is also to build the 1/12 Camaro in a drag version.

but i have not found Any great rear slicks in 1/12. I have never before build a big scale model,but thinking  a lot to " Do it". If i find Any slicks .?

Fred

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...