Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Revell '30 Show Rod coupe


Spex84

Recommended Posts

So, in anticipation of the Revell '30 kit I had saved up some parts to build a highboy with hemi power, but I just wasn't feelin' it once the parts were mocked up. The Revell '30 sort of wants to be either a modern neo-traditional hot rod, the kind of thing you might see competing for the Ridler or America's Most Beautiful trophies, or a rat rod. The custom top insert and chromed suspension components do suggest a third route, however: a late 50s/early 60s show rod. I'd been wanting to build a chrome-laden show car for some time, and have a bunch of kits to rob parts from, so here goes:

-Revell '30 body with cowl band removed, channeled over the "A" style frame. I'll probably make some other adjustments too.

-Frame Z'd in front and back...rear will probably get a transverse leaf spring adapted to the kit axle.

-Ala Kart front axle

-Revell '29 roadster channeled interior panels, modified to fit the coupe.

-Monogram '30 Woody dash (fits perfectly)

-Monogram '30 Woody chrome firewall (fits perfectly but had to be trimmed for frame/engine clearance because of the channel job)

-MPC deuce grille hollowed out and filled with drawer-pull panel from Aurora Custom Grilles Parts Pack.

-AMT '57 Ford V8 with parts box "thunderbird" logo valve covers, chrome pulleys from Revell Ford 427 parts pack, and 6x2 carbs from either the Tweedy Pie or Lil Coffin.

-Revell '30 Tudor seats, cut down.

-AMT '57 chrysler rear tires and hubcaps all 'round...Revell-Monogram tires up front (from '50 Ford pickup, or '59 Chevy Impala..probably other kits too)

-going to tunnel metal exhaust tips from Monogram '30 Touring into the kit's taillight locations, and slide in bullet-shaped lenses made from sprue.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kerry--Thanks! Regarding the tire prop.... I've probably spent weeks of my life in total trying to get tires to stand up properly while I'm doing mockups. "Almost there...almost there...*plop*" The worst are the tires that aren't molded square across the tread, so they'll never stand upright. I tried using sticky-tac, but it picks up dust and doesn't hold very well, and eventually dries out, leaving gunk in the treads (because I sometimes leave mockups sitting for weeks, if not months).

Finally, after literally years of propping tires up, only to watch them tip over again, I took 5 minutes to bend a paperclip into a holder!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all! I'll post some more shots later.

Kevin, the kickup is 4mm or so in front (basically sliced the frame at an angle and stacked it atop itself). In the back, I stacked styrene bar stock atop the frame and then cut away everything that wasn't part of the new, taller Z. It ended up being about 9mm total drop (roughly 9 scale inches).

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kerry--Thanks! Regarding the tire prop.... I've probably spent weeks of my life in total trying to get tires to stand up properly while I'm doing mockups. "Almost there...almost there...*plop*" The worst are the tires that aren't molded square across the tread, so they'll never stand upright. I tried using sticky-tac, but it picks up dust and doesn't hold very well, and eventually dries out, leaving gunk in the treads (because I sometimes leave mockups sitting for weeks, if not months).

Finally, after literally years of propping tires up, only to watch them tip over again, I took 5 minutes to bend a paperclip into a holder!

very kool idea....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update:

The Ala Kart axle has been paired with shortened radius rods from the Revell '30 coupe, and a shaved-down parts-box spring is mounted behind the axle. The trailing edge of the front crossmember was cut out and boxed in, so now it's flat. The frame had to be notched slightly for spring clearance. One little problem: the big mechanical fan I'd planned to use no longer has enough clearance. Might have to go with a smaller fan or cheat the water pump/timing cover depth to gain space.
I'm planning to add a triangle of material to the top of the frame where the radius rods mount, allowing me to keep those nice big chrome brackets. I've noticed from viewing lots of vintage photos that 50's builders were often proud of their chromed bracketry, whereas these days people try to clean everything up and hide it.

Out back, for the sake of convenience I'm using the kit rearend and coilovers, with the ladder bars cut down to represent a 4-link. New anchor brackets were made for the ends of the 4-link.

The body has metal tailpipe tips from the Monogram '30 Touring sunk into the kit taillight locations.

The track width in front needs narrowing, but I like the idea of having finned drums...I have made the left front removable, with a magnet in the wheelback and a steel pin in the brake drum to hold it together. The wheelbacks are gluebomb AMT '62 Impala with the center post removed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice, "Period Correct" Hot Rod!  You've got a great foundation going on there, be watching the rest of this one for sure.

You sort of did and didn't mention what you'll be doing with the top insert.  Perusing  the early '60's Hot Rod magazines you see many of the "over-the-top" Hot Rods with plexiglass filled inserts either color complementing the paint or yellow, orange, blue etc.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Skip--I have not decided on a top insert yet, but right now I'm favoring either the kit insert, painted white, or a colored acetate insert to represent a tinted plexi insert. If I could heat and vacu-form the acetate over the kit insert, that would be perfect. We'll have to see...

I'm also hoping to track down some white embossing powder so I can build a display base with "salt" on the floor, surrounded by the stanchions from the Outlaw kit. I picked up some in-scale chain the other day at a thrift store, to run between the stanchions.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I gave in and decided it was time to try coaxing the body into something I'm more satisfied with...so the top has been sanded across the back panel to make it flatter (a little too much on the driver's side, oops), the top has been split and wedged to force the back panel into a vertical orientation (parallel with the door cut lines), the quarter windows were split and forced into a shape that I feel is more consistent with 1:1 chopped '30 coupes, and the visor was split and re-glued after removing some material so it would take on a slightly bowed appearance, as per the 1:1 example. Visor still needs work, has a duck-bill appearance.

Also, the door top seams were cut open and the door tops forced into a slight curve.

Finally, because I'm using a Monogram '30 dashboard, it worked as a template to remove a little material from the bottom corners of the windshield opening. Now the kit windshield won't fit and I'll have to make a new one, but at least the curve is a bit more pronounced.

Cleaning up all the cut seams will add work, but I'm much happier with the roof shape now.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...