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Posted

Just thought that a quick tutorial on how to make those early 60s Mopar & Pontiac steering wheels might interest a few of you.

I've made several of these & they're very easy to make.

I start with a piece of clear plastic sprue.

Gently heat it over a candle flame until it softens to the point that it begins to "sag".

Then you need to work quickly before it re-hardens.

grab both ends of the sprue & slowly stretch just far enough to get the gauge you need & just long enough to stretch over your form.

The form can be anything that is round & the correct circumference of you steering wheel.

Quickly stretch the warm sprue over your form & you'll get something that looks like this.

 

 photo DSCN5303_zpslole0ylm.jpg

 

Then simply trim it to the correct size.

 

 photo DSCN5305_zps0p1lgiaq.jpg

 

This '62 Chrysler steering wheel only offered the top half as the transparent part so the wheel has been cut & a couple of small holes drilled at the mounting points to help guide the glue to where it needs to go.

 

 photo DSCN5306_zpsiq8lxbb1.jpg

 

Then simply glue into place.

This one has just been tacked into place to show the result.

 

 photo DSCN5307_zpstgviyjkr.jpg

 

If you wish, a little more realism could be added by shooting a light coat of clear metallic with possibly a tiny bit of clear yellow added.

most of these wheels had metal flakes in them & they yellowed very quickly.

 

Steve

 

post-31403-143138318527.jpg

 

 

Posted

Great tutorial!

As an alternative to a candle flame (which could leave soot in the plastic) consider using a soldering iron...constant, clean heat 

Posted

Great tutorial!

As an alternative to a candle flame (which could leave soot in the plastic) consider using a soldering iron...constant, clean heat 

You can use whatever works for you for a heat source.

A candle or a lighter works fine as long as you are close enough to the flame to stay out of the "soot zone".

It only takes a matter of seconds in the flame to liquefy the plastic.

I usually hold the plastic on the side of the flame rather than directly above it where the soot will form. 

 

Steve

Posted

Great idea, great pics, great tutorial!B)

Only suggestion I could add would be to scrape/sand/file/whatever the parting line off the sprue before you start, so it doesn't appear on and have to be dealt with on the finished part.

Posted

Great idea, great pics, great tutorial!B)

Only suggestion I could add would be to scrape/sand/file/whatever the parting line off the sprue before you start, so it doesn't appear on and have to be dealt with on the finished part.

That's a thought.

I usually don't have much trouble with the parting line showing on stretched sprue.

Depends on how much you're stretching it I guess.

Melting the plastic to this point will more often than not obliterate the parting line.

 

Steve

Posted

   One could make some very cool stuff for

show rods that way too.

   Beer tapper shift handles, custom grills,

and all kinds of shaped steering wheels!

   I love it, thanks for sharing.

 

      David S,

Posted

Very nice,thanks for sharing.

Fixing a 63 Bonneville right now and this would be interesting to try.

If i screw up i`ll just blame it on you :lol:

Posted

Very nice,thanks for sharing.

Fixing a 63 Bonneville right now and this would be interesting to try.

If i screw up i`ll just blame it on you :lol:

Thanks Tommy! :D

You can always try to make your clear plastic sections first before cutting the steering wheel.

That way, if it doesn't work out, or if you don't like the look, you'll still have a good steering wheel.

 

Steve

Posted

How about using that clear-coated wire that is used to tie down car bodies in display boxed kits? You get the clear outside part and the metal rim inside it.

Don't know.

Is it perfectly round & the right size?

Never tried it. :)

 

Steve

Posted

Steve, great tips about making these steering wheels! I saved this page on my hard disc as it'll be good reference later on. There's a certain '61 Chrysler in my misty distant future that will definitely need this! ;)

Posted

I've used this method on a '60 & '61 New Yorker, a '60 & '61 Plymouth Fury, a '60 Dodge and a couple of Pontiacs.

I have some Chryslers & a boat load of Pontiacs to do these on yet.

These are not all the best photos to high light them, but they will give you an idea.

 

Steve

 

 photo DSCN2834_zpsctxfupou.jpg photo 1960 3_zpsn53hkdhd.jpg

 photo DSCN3516_zpsczfwglxq.jpg photo DSCN3479_zps2rmatmk7.jpg photo DSCN2806_zpszu3zaqjd.jpg photo DSCN2776_zpsgk3l2ik6.jpg

 

Posted

How about using that clear-coated wire that is used to tie down car bodies in display boxed kits? You get the clear outside part and the metal rim inside it.

If the clear "insulation" diameter is close enough then I think this would result in a perfect representation of those clear steering wheels. The real ones also have a steel rod inside them.  Those tie-downs can be straightened out and then bent to any diameter you need.

Posted

This is pretty cool and you have it down, but I wouldn't call it simple for us flame challenged. I've tried getting thin sections by heat and even those that didn't burn up were just tapered pieces. I consistent thickness is magic here. I get the process but I would rather just buy a correct diameter, though circular is out of my reach.

That's some wonderful talent, Steve!

Posted

i think someone would be hard pressed to do a nicer job than these

Thanks Spike.

This is pretty cool and you have it down, but I wouldn't call it simple for us flame challenged. I've tried getting thin sections by heat and even those that didn't burn up were just tapered pieces. I consistent thickness is magic here. I get the process but I would rather just buy a correct diameter, though circular is out of my reach.

That's some wonderful talent, Steve!

Thanks Mike, but honestly, it's not that difficult.

Just a little practice is all it takes.

And believe me, I didn't spend a whole lot of time practicing. ;)

Getting the plastic to the correct temperature is the key.

Don't stretch the sprue over the heat.

Just heat it until it begins to "sag" and then take it away from the heat.

Then just gently stretch.

If you stretch it fast, you'll get very thin rods. (this is how I make antennas)

Stretch slowly for larger diameters.

Once you get it to the approximate diameter that you want, stop pulling & cool the plastic for straight pieces, or pull over your "mold" for curved ones.

I wonder if you could use fishing line. It comes in a couple different sizes and colors

It would need to be some very heavy fishing line Bill.

And I don't know, but do you think that rigidity might be an issue?

 

Steve

Posted

Great tip Steve.  Just as an FYI the AMT Cobra kit includes a transparent steering wheel on the glass tree.

Posted

I wonder if you could use fishing line. It comes in a couple different sizes and colors

This intrigued me, so I looked it up. Found 40# line (Stren) listed as .025" diameter, which would scale to .625 in 1/25, or 5/8 inch. Sounds like an awful thin steering wheel rim to me.

Maybe larger sizes are available, I didn't look further.

Posted

This intrigued me, so I looked it up. Found 40# line (Stren) listed as .025" diameter, which would scale to .625 in 1/25, or 5/8 inch. Sounds like an awful thin steering wheel rim to me.

Maybe larger sizes are available, I didn't look further.

I think if you get much larger, you're talking steel line for the "big" fish.

 

Steve

  • 3 weeks later...

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