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Posted

Is there someone in that list of aftermarket suppliers who offers headlight lenses. I seem to remember seeing some, but it would also be nice to remember where. :(

 

Posted

In my opinion, the photo etch lights with resin lenses are the most realistic light available! There are companies making them for HO trains and they can be used for tailights and such. Czech Truck Model has a good selection of photo etch lights! They are designed for trucks but would work just as well on cars! I'm using them on my Monroe Handler Mustang build.

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Posted

I'm currently working on a new technique using "Alumilite Mold Putty", scrap clear sprue & my oven for making lenses.

My first trial showed great promise.

I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes.

If it works as I hope, I'll be able to cast all of the lenses that I want, in any shape or size, including tail lights or amber parking lights, pretty much free.

 

Steve

Posted

I'm currently working on a new technique using "Alumilite Mold Putty", scrap clear sprue & my oven for making lenses.

My first trial showed great promise.

I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes.

If it works as I hope, I'll be able to cast all of the lenses that I want, in any shape or size, including tail lights or amber parking lights, pretty much free.

 

Steve

The downside to this is, we will have to pay $15 for a scrap clear sprue on eBay.

Posted

The downside to this is, we will have to pay $15 for a scrap clear sprue on eBay.

Not really.  Just save the scrap clear sprue when you finish a model.  I've been saving clear and red sprues for quite some time.  

Posted

Not really.  Just save the scrap clear sprue when you finish a model.  I've been saving clear and red sprues for quite some time.  

That's the easy part. Melting it down, then pouring/injecting it into molds and eliminating any and all imperfections before the plastic starts to harden is not.

I've cast some headlight lenses using Alumilite's clear resin, and while it works, the clear resin is more viscous than the non-clear varieties, and much more sensitive to imperfections. If you don't get the lens perfectly clear, it's useless. In my search for good kit-sourced lenses, there were very few which looked like accurate representations of the real 1:1 sealed beam lenses, but the Revell '69 Camaro kit was one which stood out as containing nicely detailed lenses.

Posted

Got these today. they are gorgeous. And... it is cheaper to ship stuff here from Germany than it is from the US. Go figure.

Posted

That's the easy part. Melting it down, then pouring/injecting it into molds and eliminating any and all imperfections before the plastic starts to harden is not.

I've cast some headlight lenses using Alumilite's clear resin, and while it works, the clear resin is more viscous than the non-clear varieties, and much more sensitive to imperfections. If you don't get the lens perfectly clear, it's useless. In my search for good kit-sourced lenses, there were very few which looked like accurate representations of the real 1:1 sealed beam lenses, but the Revell '69 Camaro kit was one which stood out as containing nicely detailed lenses.

There's no pouring or injecting the way that I've been experimenting with it.

It's more like pressing & reheating.

The clear plastic melts to a viscous consistency at around 400+ degrees, soft enough to be molded into a simple one piece mold.

This is a basic overview of what I've come up with so far.

I've experimented in the past with making an Alumilite "Mold Putty" mold of a given lens & them melting clear sprue with a lighter or candle & pressing it into the mold.

This worked fairly well except for the fact that the back of the lens then needed some degree of polishing to create a clear lens.

Way too much work.

This method is much the same except that after the lens is pressed & cut, the lens is dropped back into the mold & the mold & all is reheated in the oven, re-melting the plastic at which point it turns crystal clear.

I also will try just dropping small pieces of clear sprue into the mold & see what transpires by just letting a 450-500 degree oven do it's work.

If the plastic liquifies enough at that temp I'm hoping that they will "self level"

As I said, it's a work in progress, but I'm hoping with a little refinement it will be a workable option to either robbing lenses from other kits, paying a small fortune for after market lenses, or trying to work with clear resins, which I've had zero luck with to date.

 

Steve

Posted

The downside to this is, we will have to pay $15 for a scrap clear sprue on eBay.

Not when you have as many kits as I'm sure most of us have in our stash.

I probably have enough scrap clear sprue to mold 10,000 lenses! :P

 

Steve

Posted

Here's what another guy (can-con) was doing for lights on his dodge trucks, using a clear resin called 'easy cast'. I've seen it at michaels.

 

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Posted

Those photoetched lamps with clear resin dome seem to be getting quite popular (they have been used for a while by resin model manufacturers like NEO).  They are nice but to me they look a bit dull and 2-dimensional.  Real headlamps are very reflective (after all they have a mirror-like reflector inside).  I much prefer lenses like mk11 shows. they look 100% more realistic.

Posted

Those photoetched lamps with clear resin dome seem to be getting quite popular (they have been used for a while by resin model manufacturers like NEO).  They are nice but to me they look a bit dull and 2-dimensional.  Real headlamps are very reflective (after all they have a mirror-like reflector inside).  I much prefer lenses like mk11 shows. they look 100% more realistic.

I'm trying to figure this out. looks like he makes mold out of foil then pours the clear resin in there. Is the mold made by wrapping the foil on a kit lens?

Posted

I tried a different brand of clear resin that I picked up at Hobby Lobby a while back.

It proved itself to be absolutely useless.

I tried varying the mix ratio about a half dozen times & was never able to get it to harden.

 

Steve

Posted

 

If the plastic liquifies enough at that temp I'm hoping that they will "self level"

That sounds like it might work out well, Steve. Getting the exact amount of material measured out so that when it does melt and conform to the shape of the mold, there is little to no trimming nor sanding of the backside would be ideal.

Are the backsides of your lenses smooth, or asked a different way, are the front faces of each lens textured?

Posted

That's what it looks like. Find one nice lens and you're set.

 

mike 

Exactly. And the foil mold doubles as the reflector if you want.

I use a soft pencil eraser to press the foil down on and around the kit lens to get as much detail from it as possible.

I made about 3 dozen in about a 1/2 hour one afternoon. ;)

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