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Posted

I'm building a model of a racing car that was left in gray primer with flat black on the chassis and satin black on the interior.

l would like to keep that paint scheme using same rattle can paints, BUT rattle can primer and flats are very soft and mark up with the slightest touch.

My question is ... should I apply clear (flats and satin s where appropriate) to protect the very soft rattle can paint?

Should I do this with acrylic paints or should I go back to Home Depot and buy rattle can clear finishes?

Thanks

T

 

Posted

Yes, absolutely. Model airplane and tank builders do this routinely.

I've used various types of flats and satin clears for this, both rattlecan and airbrush. Nearly all have worked well.*  I would strongly advise against trying to put on a clear flat with a brush, though. When in doubt, experiment with some plastic spoons, interior tub undersides, and so forth.

*Within just the last couple weeks, I have used both Rustoleum Flat clear and Krylon Semigloss Clear--or was it the other way around?--over cheap Walmart Flat White primer with perfect results.

Posted

I use acrylics a lot in my own Military and I can say that clear finishes are used on every build. Whether it's to weather and do a wash a flat or stain finish is often laid down to seperate layers as weathering proceeds. I've also used gloss clear over flat black to create the smoothest black paint job I ever laid down. It works.

Posted

Flat finish is from the paint surface being very rough (on a microscopic level). That scatters the light hitting the painted surface making it look dull. That rough finish makes the surface fragile so can be scratched or stained easily, even by just handling it.  The less flat paints (satin or semi-gloss) have smoother surface and are more durable in handling.

Just like others said, flat paint can be clear coated, but the result will not have the same sheen as the original paint surface.

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