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Almost forgot - most of the build pix for the engine were

posted on the “some old racing engines” thread.   They are mostly on page 4 of that thread - and I’ve posted that thread forward in case you were trying

to figure out the engine build ...

and it’s tough to find older threads on the phone so I just sent the thread forward ...

confused yet ?   Good !

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The crowded engine

compartment and transaxle detail is fighting me - misplacing small parts and measurement errors on others - so I retreated to the front of the frame to attach some suspension members.  Using resin printed bolts (those Russian accessories) and bolts from RB motion  - whatever works ...  the nickel silver springs will really stand out ...






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Excellent work and a fascinating build. I doubt the original Merit kit designer ever envisioned a build such as this!

Have you considered taking on any of the other kits in the series?


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You might say that I have had a LONG relationship with Merit kits...  the Maser was built MANY years ago. As was the Lotus 11. -   Which is a curbside rep of a salt flats car that was hi-lited in - I think - Vintage Motorsport mag years ago ...  I mite take another shot at the Maserati 48CLT ...  since I built this one - I have photographed on at Goodwood and gotten more reference material. -  would like to correct some errors in this build - there are several of them - and I’m trying to convince Reverend Davis to build one too ...





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Not likely ...  couldn’t see how the expense of cleaning and/or preparing the very old molds would be practical.  Would probably be easier / cheaper to 3D print them...  and of course there would be the temptation to upgrade parts - such as wheels and tires.  Assume that you know that the SMER repros of the Talbot Lago and Alfa Romeo are still readily available.  

And there is the option of FPP for the Vanwall - and his has an engine and excellent wire wheels ...  I’m planning a Vanwall build - I’ll include a comparo if the Merit kit.  
And there are better / current resin kits of the Lotus 11 and of course the Jag D... 

back to the Cooper front suspension ...  almost there ...





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I’m still mad at MFH  for abandoning 24th scale GP kits.  Imagine how great there Maserati 250F and Alfa 158-159 kits would have been.  Maybe some day - just for laughs ?  And why haven’t they produced Lotus sports cars in that

scale ?? ???

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Got some bolts for the steering assembly - but the size of the bolt head- about .040 across flats - doesn’t match the opening in any of the mini wrenches that were sold with these - so I finally figured out how to make myself one. I drilled a .038 hole into the head of One of my favorite Toothpicks - jammed a bolt into the opening- dabbed a little CA glue over the surface - and voila - mini hex bolt wrench ...



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So the hub and spindle are finished and the bolt is screwed into the end of the steering arm - which was made months ago from brass - this was threaded by a corresponding thread tool - which is one of those tools that you don’t use very often but you’re glad that you have ...





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The steering arm is set with my top secret / xtra special alignment tooth picks....  now about that spare wire that loops thru the front of the frame without a destination.  That is the end of the park brake cable.  The picture of the real car frame is from the Canepa site. They have a terrific walk-a-round of a Cooper Mark 9 with some suspension updates that is for sale - got a spare 100,000 ??  That picture solved my “where does the park brake cable go” mystery - which of course has kept me up many recent nights - thank you Bruce Canepa ...





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Ok. Made the chassis tab that holds the handbrake and threaded it thru and led it to the slave cylinders - now to the steering wheel and shift linkage ...


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Steering wheel - w Cooper badge printed on my computer on some decal film 

shift linkage is brass and nickel silver tube - it links up with the gear case in the engine bay

no. This is not an all nighter ...

just couldn’t zzzz ... ...






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Back to the engine bay ...

ive made a second chain drive - the first one was too long - using the Aber photo-etch chain glued to a part made fr Evergreen .020.   This is as close as you will get in making this sort of motorcycle chain drive in this scale ... the Aber set - I think it’s still available on their site - can also be used for the mechanical chains used in the brake assemblies seen in the foot bays of Bugattis.  Neat stuff ...

the part was shoe-horned into the engine bay - very tight fit - but it’s in and the drive train now just needs some axles and U joints - that’s next ...




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Apple treated me to an I phone software update last night and everything works a little differently -  I hate it when somebody moves my cheese ...

where was I -  

Tweeking the engine cover fractured the forward edge. Clean break - so I’ve glued in a support piece - this will hold - so I’ll need another light coat of paint ...




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And the gas tank is epoxied to the chassis clips and sports two bungee cords made from semi-clear wire the spring clips made from wound steel wire.  
bye bye pedals - won’t see those again ...




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Made and installed the new fuel pump - it’s driven off the back of the transaxle .  Of course - I then found the first pump - which had gone missing ... the pump fittings are RB Motion banjo fittings ...

and installed the oil tank after some mods to the shape - had to lower its profile to fit under the engine cover with the tank cap - which is a white metal part fr the parts bins ...





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Rear susp assembly is proving to be difficult - fitting, tweeking, re-drilling holes, more test fitting ...  and an unscheduled survey of the workshop floor in search of a wayward upright.  





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Before finishing the axles and the U joints I’ve gotten the unique Cooper torsion bar on - that’s the black curly cue thing that’s  perched on top of the leaf spring ...  and the stance is OK. -  not perfect -  but it’s close to what I want ...  I know that the wheelbase difference front to back looks odd -  but the Coopers ran a narrower rear suspension ...






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