Final assembly

[m408]

After returning to this hobby after a 40 year lay off, and with a lot of help from you all, I think that I am advancing from the "glue bomb" stage, but I still have a major problem with final assembly.

It seems, that no matter how hard I try, I still have "paint to paint" joining situations. Tried liqued masking and plain masking but still seem to miss some spots.

I have seen CA and 5 minute epoxy suggested for "paint to paint" joining, but have had little success. Tried applying both with tooth picks, straight pins, and even tried Pentax using capillary action. Nothing seems to work with lasting strength.

I see after market products that will dispense minute quantities.

Anybody tried them? And with what results?

Any and all help will be appreciated.

[chris coller]

What type of parts are you glueing together?

[outlaw035]

hey milt...i use liquid nails perfect glue #3....its an expoxy based adhesive with a 4 min set up time...the chart recommends #2 for plastic but its very thin...i use that also but i perfer #3 because it is thick and gives u time to work with it if needed....paint to pain tno problem.....neal

[MikeMc]

Milt get a good sharp scapel and remove that paint or mask it off B4 painting.All of

the glue shown has its place Try some "ultimate"...its water based dries slloooowwww..but stays flexible yet strong, dries clear..and wont harm paint!

I got it a michaels...I prefer it to the tacky glue

[m408]

What type of parts are you glueing together?

Mainly misc chassis parts. Shocks, ladder bars, radiator attachment slots. steering boxes, etc.. Just misc stuff that is easy to overlook until you get to that stage of assembly.

[Guest Davkin]

Paint to paint glue joints should be avoided. What fails is the paint, not the glue. Scrape the paint off using your #11 blade or a file. That said, I use CA for most final assembly and Pacer 560 Canopy glue for chrome and clear parts.

David

[sdrodder]

I use kwik bond 1. This helps me for any parts. I have even used it for paint to paint and it still works just dont add to much because of 2 resons. 1 it will take the paint of and then fall off and 2 it will fog up. Another glue i use for clear parts is elmers white glue. It take 24 hours to dry but is strong and wont fog up the clear parts. I hope this helps. Also try zap a gap. Used it but cant find the bottle.

Edited June 19, 2008 by sdrodder

[dryvr12]

you could try super glue. or you mite b able to brush on the glue if you have a small enuf brush

[bobss396]

I avoid paint-to-paint part attachments whenever possible. If I have to I'll use 5-minute epoxy, mix it up and wait until the 3-minute mark to apply it. Any excess wipes off with a damp cloth and won't attack the paint immediately like other glues.

Another trick is to fabricate mounting tabs beforehand, before you do the primer. Then use the tabs as the gluing surface and the actual painted surfaces are not an issue.

Bob

[Guest Davkin]

Another trick is to fabricate mounting tabs beforehand, before you do the primer.

Yes, with the often ambiguous or non-existent locating pins or tabs on many model kits this is a very good idea to create much stronger joints. I often add pins made from 1/32 brass wire. Drill holes that line up in both parts then glue a piece of brass wire in one of them. This also makes for easier mockups.

David