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I am using the Donn Yost practice of using Testors Metallizer spray as a primer. When I go to foil the trim, the foil often lifts off the paint around the trim.  This has happened to me when using rattle cans (Testors Lacquer as well as Krylon) and airbrushing. I have tried various things to combat this, including throughly buffing the Metallizer as well as scrubbing with soapy water. Can’t seem to eliminate it.  Here are some pictures of the issue:

Any help would be appreciated. 

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Is the chipping all the way back to plastic? If so an you are washing the body then have you scuffed the body?  I have been using a sanding cloth called super assilex to prep my bodys before priming with Tamiya rattle can primers. I have a link to the jobpack for the sanding kit, great stuff as ot is a soft cloth vs a rigid paper.

 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XD8MWFC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_HgmNAbGA6BRJG

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I'm very surprised that anyone would suggest Testors "Metallizer" as a primer!

It has always been quite evident to me that Metallizer paints are very fragile to the point of being un-maskable.

By that I mean that after spraying metallizer, masking any of the area that you have painted inevitably results in the paint lifting off with the tape.

In other words, the adhesion properties of metallizer paint is very poor.

Therefore, I would expect this kind of result from spraying paint over the top of it.

If the underlying "primer" does not adhere well, it goes to follow that successive coats of paint will not adhere either.

This would have been a perfect chance to try out a proverbial "spoon test".

Spray some metallizer on a plastic spoon, let it dry & then place a piece of masking tape over the paint.

When you pull it off, I guarantee you that you will find metallizer has pulled off onto the tape.

I know that Donn Yost is supposedly a paint guru, but if he is suggesting metallizer as a primer there are no doubt some added techniques that he is using to prevent this.

Regardless, I personally would never use it as a primer under any circumstance.

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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7 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

know that Donn Yost is supposedly a paint guru, but if he is suggesting metallizer as a primer there are no doubt some added techniques that he is using to prevent this.

I didn't want to go there but since Steven did then I'll second that using metallizer. I imagine that paint as a metallic powder an barely able to hold onto itself let alone a topcoat. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby then a can with thier 40% off coupon is worth the investment over what you save using the metalizer.

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1 hour ago, ScottH454 said:

I didn't want to go there but since Steven did then I'll second that using metallizer.

I don't doubt Donn's prowess as a painter, but it surely must be that he is doing something to prevent this if he is using it as a primer.

I've basically stopped using Metallizer unless the circumstance requires absolutely no work such as masking or over coating after the fact.

I've found that it does a much better job of coating your fingers with silver dust when handled than anything else! :P

It works great & looks fantastic as long as you basically don't have to touch it again after application.

 

Steve

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While I see where Don is coming from, I would also not even consider using Metallizer as primer. I don't see how any paint will adhere well to it.  I build mostly models with unmodified bodies and I only use primer if absolutely required (like a red body with the final color being white). If the paint color will be similar or darker than the plastic color I don't use primer at all.  Of course this is for plastic-compatible (hobby paints). Automotive lacquers usually require primer (not to attack and craze plastic).

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This might be kind of obvious, but here goes anyway: Stop using Metalizer as a primer! 

I wouldn't have tried it more than twice. Once might be a fluke. Twice means it's a technique that's not gonna work. 

Patient: "Doctor, it hurts when I do this."

Doctor: "Don't DO that." 

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It’s true I may have crossed the line between stubbornness and persistence. Its sometimes hard to to tell when you just need more practice as opposed to going a different route. In all cases, I have prepped the body and washed it thoroughly. The Metallizer doesn’t come up for me, but the paint lifts off of it. I have stuck with it because it covers red  or orange plastic completely and doesn’t obscure  script and other fine details like primer. I guess it’s time to go back to primer. Thanks for the thoughts. 

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Basic silver paint can be used to cover red or orange plastic ,  you can easily air brush a light enough coat  that will cover the plastic but thin enough not to build up over any body details like scripts.

I wonder if using the Metalizers sealer would stop the issues you are having.

Edited by martinfan5
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On 3/4/2018 at 9:15 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I'm very surprised that anyone would suggest Testors "Metallizer" as a primer!

It has always been quite evident to me that Metallizer paints are very fragile to the point of being un-maskable.

 

Ive had good luck with the Metalizer sealer from Testors,  I LOVE the Metalizer line, but yes,if  you look at the Metalizer paints wrong and it will rub itself off.

Edited by martinfan5
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