Ro3bert Posted March 14, 2018 Posted March 14, 2018 (edited) While I have completed a number of 1/24 and 1/25 models I have been fascinated by the larger models. This Jaguar is what is on my workbench now but some years ago I started Porsche 910 Carrera 10 but as I ran into some technical problems which I will talk about in another post. Below is the box art. I don't remember when I got it but as you can see the box is in pretty good shape. I think the model was produced in 1961 or 1962 as the car is a 1961 model. I plan on making some modifications to make it look realer, but sometimes my eyes are bigger than my stomach so we'll see how it goes. Frankly I don't think the box art favors the real car. Before I cleaned the mold release off the parts I went ahead and started on the engine seen below. The instructions mention that you should follow the sequence in the instructions so after looking through them (morel than once) I decided to follow them. Now I have to wash them as suggested to rid the pieces of mold release. Has anyone had problems with paint sticking due to fingerprints? This is as far as I have gotten so far. When I started I had no idea I'd be recording the build. More to follow as I get into it. Well this image below wasn't supposed to be here but so be it. This is my work bench up in the attic. Edited March 15, 2018 by Ro3bert Image wasn't supposed to be here.
f1ford48 Posted March 15, 2018 Posted March 15, 2018 That is a great kit-the proportions are spot on with the real car and the wheels are pretty nice too . you will have fun with this one.
Ro3bert Posted March 15, 2018 Author Posted March 15, 2018 (edited) I fell inn love with the XK-E the first time I saw one in Spokane WA. At the time I was driving a bug eyed Sprite which I eventually traded in for a Porsche 356A Speedster that included soft top and a fiberglass removable top. That was good as I was headed for Fairchild AFB outside Spokane WA. I'd bought the Sprite in England while I was stationed there in 1958-59. The dealer at home gave me more for it (against the Porsche) than I originally paid. I have an image somewhere but can't find it right now. Edited March 15, 2018 by Ro3bert
sjordan2 Posted March 16, 2018 Posted March 16, 2018 Your biggest issue will be how much you care about the body seam that runs along the bottom of the doors. I don’t have the link, but fixing it has been covered on the forum.
Ro3bert Posted March 18, 2018 Author Posted March 18, 2018 Thanks for the tip Skip. I'll try to find the link you mentioned. I went up to look at the body but the doors are still on the sprues(spel) so not going to look for whatever problem you are talking about. Robert
Ro3bert Posted March 20, 2018 Author Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) After looking the kit over I decided to wire it with real lights. Small LED's are available from hobby shops and on the internet. This is going to take some planning so progress will be slow. Have to decide where to put the batteries and routing the wires. Won't stop putting things together and submitting images and sharing plans and maybe wiring diagrams. Wish me luck this is going to be a complicated build. Images of progress later. Robert Edited March 20, 2018 by Ro3bert
Ro3bert Posted March 21, 2018 Author Posted March 21, 2018 (edited) Yesterday I went to the local Hobby Town USA to get some paint, glue and LED's for the lighting. Also got a ratchet clamp that will be used, among other things, as a paint shaker. Saw how to use it on You Tube. When I got home I found I had some LED's I'd gotten for another model. The ones I got at Hobby Town were 5mm whild the ones already at home were 3mm. Some are 6VDC and some 3VDC. I'm leaning toward the 3mm except for the head lights, for those the 5mm ones are probably the best choice. Of course they will all have to be tested before installation. One of the problems is where to put the batteries. I was at a loss until I looked at the model's battery and guess what it is large enough to hold the light batteries. Probably I'll use 2032 button batteries as they are 3VDC. They can be either in series or parallel, haven't decided yet which. Series will give 6V but low amperage while in parallel the voltage will be 3V. The model's battery box will hold maybe 4 or 5 buttons. One problem with this solution was the battery terminals. How was I to wire things from the battery box. The solution was to remove the terminals and replace with some sort of metal. The terminals were approximately 3/16" dia. and I found some brass tubing about the same size. The plastic terminals were cut off with my trusty sprue cutters, then using my Moto tool set up in a drill press, drilled the plastic and inserted the brass rod. Here are a couple of pictures with the brass rod in one of the holes. The tube has not been cut to length yet. Haven't decided how to attach the wires to the posts. I'd like to find some small "battery clamps" but that will come later. Have to decide how to hold the button batteries together but once that is worked out the connecting wires will be soldered to the brass rod. The rod will then be fed up thru the holes and Zaped in place. Robert Edited March 21, 2018 by Ro3bert
Ro3bert Posted March 21, 2018 Author Posted March 21, 2018 I have some concerns with this model, for a 1:8 scale there is much to be desired. Comparisons will be made with a 1:12 Porsche Carrera 10 kit ( of course it is much newer/younger than the Jaguar). Maybe the difference is the Porsche is a Tamiya while the Jaguar is a Revell. Front wheels are steerable but not connected to the steering wheel. The Porsche has a working rack and pinion that works. The rear axle is solid, has no U joints and has no springing as the Porsche but the front suspension is sprung. The rotors on the Jaguar are all mounted to the frame, they don't rotate with the wheels as the Porsche kit does. The doors on the Jaguar are set up to open and the windows roll up and down but there is no way to open the doors except to pull on them. The fast back (don't know what else to call it) is not made to open like the the side doors. No fan for the engine, don't understand that one. Hopefully I'll be able to see one on a Jaguar website. Other than those points I'm very satisfied with the kit. I'm looking around to see if I can resolve those issues. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Robert.
Howard Cohen Posted March 21, 2018 Posted March 21, 2018 The Jaguar was first released by Monogram about 1963 using the methods available then. The Porsche was issued many years later with much newer technology and a larger budget. Hence, the Porsche will have better detail and working parts. I have seen the Jag built up by many people and they all loved it. Just remember you are building a 50 year old kit
mecklm Posted March 21, 2018 Posted March 21, 2018 Hi, enjoying your build. I did an Amazon search and found two different holders, with leads, for the 2032 battery. Several listings are three packs, each designed to hold a single battery. There was one other listing for a 15 pack, however each holder fits 2 batteries. The 3 packs were in the $3 range - the 15 pack was around $13. Hope that helps you out. Mike
Ro3bert Posted March 21, 2018 Author Posted March 21, 2018 2 hours ago, Howard Cohen said: The Jaguar was first released by Monogram about 1963 using the methods available then. The Porsche was issued many years later with much newer technology and a larger budget. Hence, the Porsche will have better detail and working parts. I have seen the Jag built up by many people and they all loved it. Just remember you are building a 50 year old kit That's what I figured but didn't know for sure. What a difference 50 years make.
Ro3bert Posted March 21, 2018 Author Posted March 21, 2018 2 hours ago, mecklm said: Hi, enjoying your build. I did an Amazon search and found two different holders, with leads, for the 2032 battery. Several listings are three packs, each designed to hold a single battery. There was one other listing for a 15 pack, however each holder fits 2 batteries. The 3 packs were in the $3 range - the 15 pack was around $13. Hope that helps you out. Mike Have to check that out. I didn't know there were holders for the 2032 batteries and I'll sure have to get one or more. Thanks Mike.
Howard Cohen Posted March 21, 2018 Posted March 21, 2018 There is a guy that makes all kinds of electronic parts for cars and trains including battery holders, bulbs, connectors and whatever else you might need: Evan Designs
Ro3bert Posted March 22, 2018 Author Posted March 22, 2018 Thanks, Howard Went to his site and was pleasantly surprised at the wealth of information and products he has available. When I am ready for lighting the model I'll sure order some things from him. Robert
Ro3bert Posted March 24, 2018 Author Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) Broke down today and ordered a paint booth from TCP Global. I wanted to make one myself but for physical reasons don't believe I should (long story untold). The paint booth comes with a long flexible tube that can be put at a window sill...well here is an image of it. I'll post my impression of it when it gets here, but it looks nifty especially the fact it folds up into a carrying case. I don't really need a carrying case but I suspect it will come that way. Meanwhile I'll continue prepping parts. Robert Edited March 24, 2018 by Ro3bert
Ro3bert Posted March 27, 2018 Author Posted March 27, 2018 Ordered the paint booth Saturday and surprisingly received it today (Monday). So now I can begin to paint and assemble this thing. I'll post images as I go along. Spent a whole lot of time the last two days cleaning up mis-register on nearly all parts. Robert
djmcguire Posted March 27, 2018 Posted March 27, 2018 Can you let us know how the paint booth works when you get a chance to use it also?
Ro3bert Posted March 28, 2018 Author Posted March 28, 2018 I set it up today (Sun 03/27/18). It took some doing as the sides and lights were a bear to get together (inexperience) but it finally went together and the lights worked fantastically, very bright. However I don't think I'll brake it down again even thought it folds into that small box with the carrying handle, too much trouble getting it together. I'd recommend it to anyone who wants/needs a small paint booth. I'll have to take an image of the front body part of the Jag to show a rather large piece can be shot in it. I shot some black on the engine block but ran into a number of problems (personal); black paint all over my hands and drips everywhere. I used the cup that comes with the Badger gun so with my inexperience, haven't used an air brush for years and let me tell you it isn't like riding a bicycle after years of not riding, you do forget. I decided to get some bottles that attach to the brush so the spillage can at least be reduced it not eliminated. The first image is of some part showing the miss-register that is evident in just about every part of the model. After masking the head so I could shoot the rest shiny black. The next image shows some of the problems with my first session. The paint was too thick for shooting but when I thinned it the brush worked better but using the cup created difficulties for me so tomorrow I'm going back the Hobby House to get some bottles.
The Creative Explorer Posted March 29, 2018 Posted March 29, 2018 On 16-3-2018 at 6:50 PM, sjordan2 said: Your biggest issue will be how much you care about the body seam that runs along the bottom of the doors. I don’t have the link, but fixing it has been covered on the forum. One day, hopefully not too far into the distant future, I'll come up with a better tutorial for the seam lines: http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/building-tutorials/6549-cracking-code-getting-rid-xke-panellines.html
Ro3bert Posted March 29, 2018 Author Posted March 29, 2018 3 hours ago, The Creative Explorer said: One day, hopefully not too far into the distant future, I'll come up with a better tutorial for the seam lines: http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/building-tutorials/6549-cracking-code-getting-rid-xke-panellines.html Erik I looked at the post but didn't see anything specific about panel lines or I just missed it, too the image is no longer available so I couldn't see what the problem is. Guess I'll find out when I get to that part of the build. Robert
sjordan2 Posted March 29, 2018 Posted March 29, 2018 3 hours ago, Ro3bert said: Erik I looked at the post but didn't see anything specific about panel lines or I just missed it, too the image is no longer available so I couldn't see what the problem is. Guess I'll find out when I get to that part of the build. Robert In the kit, there is a distinct panel line horizontally where the upper body joins the lower body. No such line on the 1:1.
Ro3bert Posted March 30, 2018 Author Posted March 30, 2018 8 hours ago, sjordan2 said: In the kit, there is a distinct panel line horizontally where the upper body joins the lower body. No such line on the 1:1. Skip, Erik, et al I see what you mean now. I'll be looking at that line and I know which one you are talking about. I'm sure I'll be able to somehow eliminate it. I didn't think the poster was as clear as he could have been but I think, now, where in the post the reference was. Thanks for the update, Robert
The Creative Explorer Posted April 1, 2018 Posted April 1, 2018 Robert, It might not be the best excuse, but English is my third language; it is still a learning process. I think panelgaps might be a better description. Sorry about that. On the other hand though; there are no (visible) panellines on a XK-E anyway. And where that tutorial lacked pictures ( I made it 11 years ago!); eventually I will work on a new tutorial with some descriptive pictures. I do want to advice to follow the tutorial, as that is a fragile piece of the body and you don't want it to crack after the build is finished. Good luck!
Ro3bert Posted April 2, 2018 Author Posted April 2, 2018 Ok, Erik I now understand what you meant in the tutorial and will be especially careful when I get to that part. I'm assuming that applies to the hood as well as the rear section. I haven't done much for the past few days; still waiting for the paint bottles to arrive which is scheduled for Tuesday. I'm having a hard time not comparing this model with the Porsche 910 Carrera 10 by Tamiya. Of course they were produced years apart so the techniques are not comparable. After looking at many of the large models I want to drastically alter the modeling method. Unfortunately that may not be in the works for the time being, will just have to muddle along and see what I might change. Robert
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