Pete75 Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Those wheels are a thing of beauty - she's gonna be killer!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share Posted December 13, 2020 On 12/12/2020 at 12:43 PM, Pete75 said: Those wheels are a thing of beauty - she's gonna be killer!? Thanks, Bud!....everything is now decaled, and cleared!...after i detail paint them, i will post photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) Hey, everyone!, i'm slowly getting back into it...heres an update on the brake system. they are all assembled, and slightly weathered...next step installation! I also have quite a bit of an update on things pertaining to the body, but dont have time to post it right now. -Photo 1; All i need to do is to hook up the lines, and wiring harness's, then i can perminantly attach everything. -Photo 2; I was gonna SB my own turbos, but i was tired of making things, so i bought these resin turbos from HD. Edited April 1, 2021 by Dann Tier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattilacken Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Glad to se you back Dan! Looks good as always! Trying to get back to my project as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Your workmanship is amazing. Maybe someday you will build a Pantera ! 😬 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 On 4/1/2021 at 6:18 PM, Mattilacken said: Glad to se you back Dan! Looks good as always! Trying to get back to my project as well. Thanks, Bud!, i hope you can get back into full swing as well!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 On 4/1/2021 at 6:47 PM, cobraman said: Your workmanship is amazing. Maybe someday you will build a Pantera ! 😬 Thanks, Bud! -I know...i know, lol....hopefully soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 (edited) Hey, everyone!, i decided to switch things up a bit for a while, and work on the body parts. Most of the main work was done a long time ago, so it would be nice to get it under primer. I dont know about everybody els's experience with the fitment of the interior tub to the chassis, then to the body, but this kit has something off about it. It first started when i had to remove one of the locating pins under the tub because they were too close together. It fit properly to the chassis, but when you put the whole assembly up into the body (per the instructions), the fit was horrible! -dash top was at an angle...and gaping gaps everywhere! So, like i quite often do, tossed aside the instructions, and started to fit the interior assembly to the body -without the chassis. With a few tweaks here, and there, its all lining up into place waaay better. Dont know how final assembly will be by doing it this way, but the interior will meet the body the way it should, and thats all i care about. -Photo 1; I decided the best way to do the doors, was to glue in the interior bit, then cut out the door pad, and work them as the separate bits they are. -Photo 2; This corner edge on both doors is too shallow, and causes finished door seatment issues. -Photo 3; These two huge openings will need to go away. -Photo 4; Test fit of the door to sill fitment, shows that the two surfaces touch too much, and not only doesnt allow for paint thickness, but either needs tape to hold them down, or your finger pressure -neither is an option, so i will need to sort it out. - Photo 5; This front sill contact has far too much space, and wont work when i make my own factory style-hinges. -Photo 6; Even though the tub is in its best position, there are tiny gaps here on either side -a bit of styrene to each door sill will fix that issue. -Photo 7; The whole door edging is at the wrong angle, which causes them to be too narrow. Its a very drastic angle that i'm pointing too. -Photo 8; This area of the tub was squared, but had to be cut at an angle in order for better roof contact, as well as clearing an area for me to mount the factory hinges i will be making. -Photo 9; Here is the off-angle of the back sill/door edge area. -Photo 10; The way the kit goes together would leave a huge square hole here, but since the front sill there needs to be pulled back, it will close it up nicely. -Photo 11&12; I tried to find decals, or PE for these scripts, but found nothing. Then i tried different ways of making molds of them -no success. The only option left, is to cut those buggers out...thin them...fill the holes with styrene, then i will be able to paint them separately without worry of losing crisp detail due to the painting process. Sounds like alot of work, but it isnt really, and will look waaay better!, as well as using more of the original kit. Outcome: The easiest way for me to fix all the door issues, and to get more realism, is to remove the door edges...make new ones, and make all new door cards, so thats all next -AFTER i install the brakes, and wheels/tyres. Edited April 5, 2021 by Dann Tier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted March 30, 2023 Author Share Posted March 30, 2023 (edited) Just heard that the friend that gave me this kit had his cancer go to stage four, so i'm gonna also be kicking this one into full gear so that i can show it to him in person. -Photo 1; The first step to new fender flares was to attach sheet styrene to the openings with the new shape. -Photo 2; I cut an opening in the door sill below the NACA duct that will house the two release levers for the rear hood, and boot. -Photo 3; I tried to use the front door sill that came with the kit, but its gonna be a whole lot easier to make my own...especially since i will be making actual factory door hinges. -Photo 4; I cut out the Bertone badges from both sides, and i will reattach them with better detail. -Photo 5; Stage two for the fenders was to bend square styrene stock around the wheel openings to create the edges. The narrower front got one level, but the wider rear fenders got two levers. -Photo 6; The new front door sills. -Photo 7; I also cut out the scripts from the rear to reattach later as well...notice the shape of the fender flares from the rear. -Photo 8; It was also easier to cover over the kit chin spoiler...i will rework easier now. -Photo 9; All sorts of sheet styrene was used to fill in the old wheel openings, and lips for the bonnet, hood, and boot to rest on. -Photo 10; Ejection marks all filled in. Edited March 30, 2023 by Dann Tier 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dino246gt Posted March 30, 2023 Share Posted March 30, 2023 Man I'm diggin' your build of this fantastic car! I stalled with the doors, did decide to remove the door cards, but still struggled with hinges, put it back in the old box. Can't wait to see how you make hinges, I'll try to copy! LOVE the Countach, mine though is the LP400. Cheers! Or should I say CIAO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89AKurt Posted March 30, 2023 Share Posted March 30, 2023 Heck of an incentive to geterdone. I'm surprised this has the emblems molded on, there are twice as many taillight parts as needed (granted same mold, different color clear plastic). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted March 31, 2023 Share Posted March 31, 2023 (edited) Wow, it's been a wile since you worked on this baby! I'm curious why didn't you just foil-cast the emblems/logos instead of yanking them out, leaving holes the body? EDIT: I went back and read some earlier posts, so I know your reasons. When I built mine, I masked the "bertone" logos before painting the body. Then after the body color was applied, I removed the masking and painted the bare plastic logos. That way there was no paint buildup on the lettering. I seem to recall that I then dry-brushed the scripts on the rear panel. Nowadays I would scan the rear panel then trace the scripts in Corel Draw and print black decals to cover the raised lettering. Edited March 31, 2023 by peteski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ea0863 Posted March 31, 2023 Share Posted March 31, 2023 Makes me wish I were a 1:12 scale person just so I could enjoy your Countach all the more! BTW, have you picked a body color yet? Not trying to suggest anything, but I still have my Alpine Countach poster from 1980!... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 3, 2023 Author Share Posted April 3, 2023 On 3/30/2023 at 9:19 AM, dino246gt said: Man I'm diggin' your build of this fantastic car! I stalled with the doors, did decide to remove the door cards, but still struggled with hinges, put it back in the old box. Can't wait to see how you make hinges, I'll try to copy! LOVE the Countach, mine though is the LP400. Cheers! Or should I say CIAO! Thanks again, Dennis!, i'm pretty sure i need to do the hinges next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 4, 2023 Author Share Posted April 4, 2023 On 3/30/2023 at 10:53 AM, 89AKurt said: Heck of an incentive to geterdone. I'm surprised this has the emblems molded on, there are twice as many taillight parts as needed (granted same mold, different color clear plastic). You are right, Kurt! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 4, 2023 Author Share Posted April 4, 2023 On 3/30/2023 at 8:26 PM, peteski said: Wow, it's been a wile since you worked on this baby! I'm curious why didn't you just foil-cast the emblems/logos instead of yanking them out, leaving holes the body? EDIT: I went back and read some earlier posts, so I know your reasons. When I built mine, I masked the "bertone" logos before painting the body. Then after the body color was applied, I removed the masking and painted the bare plastic logos. That way there was no paint buildup on the lettering. I seem to recall that I then dry-brushed the scripts on the rear panel. Nowadays I would scan the rear panel then trace the scripts in Corel Draw and print black decals to cover the raised lettering. Nice!...waaay more high-tech than me, lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 4, 2023 Author Share Posted April 4, 2023 On 3/30/2023 at 8:42 PM, ea0863 said: Makes me wish I were a 1:12 scale person just so I could enjoy your Countach all the more! BTW, have you picked a body color yet? Not trying to suggest anything, but I still have my Alpine Countach poster from 1980!... I'm glad you like it that much, Emre! I've often thought like that, lol. Thats so cool that you still have that poster...mine will be a darker metallic gray -like a charcoal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ea0863 Posted April 4, 2023 Share Posted April 4, 2023 2 minutes ago, Dann Tier said: I'm glad you like it that much, Emre! I've often thought like that, lol. Thats so cool that you still have that poster...mine will be a darker metallic gray -like a charcoal. Ah, yes. An homage to Ken Imhoff - the man who built a stunning charcoal grey Countach from scratch in his basement over a 17 year period... and then had to figure out a way to get it out! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 4, 2023 Author Share Posted April 4, 2023 (edited) Hey, everyone!, after having to scrape off old Milliput that wasnt curing, i managed to replace it, and had almost enough to get it done right. It still needs some glazing putty since i had to make it go further. After all that, its moving along nicely once again. -Photo 1; Fenders are roughed on with putty. Badging holes also filled in. -Photo 2; I ran out of Milliput here, but Tamiya putty finished it off. -Photo 3; I temporarily glued styrene strips to the roof, A pillar, and door sill so that i get the proper fitment gapping while i work on the hinges, and keeping proper alignment. -Photo 4; I cut slots out for the door edges to tuck into. -Photo 5; I was just modifying the kit provided NACA ducts, but i felt like i overworked them to death, and decided to make brand new ones. -Photo 6; The original bits were notched to cover this area of the door sill, but i found it better/more realistic to blend it in butted-up. -Photo 7; Great door fitment with enough gapping for paint thickness. -Photo 8; Yep, i decided to make my own new door edges. I'm pointing at the area that will have the latch pins added to next. -Photo 9; The new NACA ducts really do look much better. -Photo 10&11; The stencil for my boot. -Photo 12; In order to make test fitting, and final assembly waaay easier, i'm gonna remove the rear bits of the wheel wells, and remake them as part of the boot assembly. Edited April 4, 2023 by Dann Tier 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 4, 2023 Author Share Posted April 4, 2023 24 minutes ago, ea0863 said: Ah, yes. An homage to Ken Imhoff - the man who built a stunning charcoal grey Countach from scratch in his basement over a 17 year period... and then had to figure out a way to get it out! Pretty close to that color, ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iamsuperdan Posted April 4, 2023 Share Posted April 4, 2023 As usual with your stuff, it's pretty awesome. Great to see it back on the bench! Sorry to hear about why though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 16, 2023 Author Share Posted April 16, 2023 On 4/3/2023 at 9:52 PM, iamsuperdan said: As usual with your stuff, it's pretty awesome. Great to see it back on the bench! Sorry to hear about why though. Thanks, Dan!...very much appreciated! I'm just about to post another update... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 16, 2023 Author Share Posted April 16, 2023 (edited) Hey, everyone! While i'm still working on how to make real factory hinges, i decided to finish off all the fenders, and fitments. Heres the body all primered up, and ready for finishing touches. -Photo 1; Everything is properly gapped, and flush. -Photo 2; I'm still not sure what i want to do to the chin spoiler of this fictional one of a kind Countach. -Photo 3; The fenders turned out great, and soon i will rescribe the rocker seams, fender seams, and add the strip of sheet metal hanging down from the bottom of the rockers. -Photo 4; No traces of where i cut out any of the molded in scripts. _photo 5; All the fender flares were rolled up out of the way, and just need a bit of glazing putty. Edited April 16, 2023 by Dann Tier 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Chernosky Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 Awesome to see this one back on the bench. Boy...you sure do have a way with styrene. Those bamboo skewers do make some great modeling tools.,....<G> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted April 16, 2023 Author Share Posted April 16, 2023 3 minutes ago, Rich Chernosky said: Awesome to see this one back on the bench. Boy...you sure do have a way with styrene. Those bamboo skewers do make some great modeling tools.,....<G> Thanks, Rich!, I do love using the skewers, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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