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Posted
8 hours ago, Tommy124 said:

Hi Dann,

 

unbelievable! I have that same PE set...

But then again, this build is about the Miura SV, and the SV (unlike the "normal" Miura) did NOT have those eye lashes. So they shouldn't be required anyway, or am I mistaken...?

You are correct, Thomas, the SV doesn't have the eyelashes, but its nice to have the option!

Posted
7 hours ago, mustang1989 said:

Haven't ever tried anything like this before but you make this look so dang easy that it's tempting to pick one of these up.

DO IT, Joe!!!!, you will love this kit!!

Posted
7 hours ago, FabbricaP said:

Looking good Dann. That single eyelash headliight backing PE part is really odd. Guess somebody at Studio27 messed up.The PE set looks excellent otherwise. If those little PE parts above the badges are louver vents the Miura is shooting up a couple places on my build list lol! 

Thanks again, Jason!, they sure are PE like the rest of the vents and such! It was suggested earlier, that the single eyelash base was just a jig, but after closer scrutiny, it isn't. it has VERY tiny holes that the individual lashes tabs fit into, and after thinking about it, why bother etching the ring where the headlamp fits-in if its just a jig?

Posted
6 hours ago, Rider said:

Another great update! Over/slip scribes can be death in the wrong spot. Looks like you'll sort that one out. 

Yes it can, Lloyd!, what works really good for me, is to sand-over the scratch again, until its full of dust, then carefully klean-out any lines that connect to it, so they don't get filled in as well. The dust is its own filler when you add the THIN glaze of super glue....really works a treat!!

Posted
3 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

Yes it can, Lloyd!, what works really good for me, is to sand-over the scratch again, until its full of dust, then carefully klean-out any lines that connect to it, so they don't get filled in as well. The dust is its own filler when you add the THIN glaze of super glue....really works a treat!!

Agreed, although I tend to use normal glue. I find the CA can be too hard to sand which can leave a high spot. I like CA and styrene dust as gap filler. 

Posted
1 minute ago, Rider said:

Agreed, although I tend to use normal glue. I find the CA can be too hard to sand which can leave a high spot. I like CA and styrene dust as gap filler. 

Wait a minute!.....Plasti-Zap isn't super glue??!!, that's what I use!!!

Posted
On 9/10/2018 at 4:36 PM, Dann Tier said:

Yes it can, Lloyd!, what works really good for me, is to sand-over the scratch again, until its full of dust, then carefully klean-out any lines that connect to it, so they don't get filled in as well. The dust is its own filler when you add the THIN glaze of super glue....really works a treat!!

Dann, Thanks for the tip. I tried this last night and it worked wonders. Within a couple minutes the line had dried and was sanded out.. gone. Never going to use putty again to fill in a bad scribe line. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Mike Chernecki said:

Dann, Thanks for the tip. I tried this last night and it worked wonders. Within a couple minutes the line had dried and was sanded out.. gone. Never going to use putty again to fill in a bad scribe line. 

Sounds good indeed!

May I ask which method / medium you use in order to apply only "a thin glaze of super glue"? Maybe a micro brush? I use Plasti-Zap aswell and seem to get it out of the bottle only in rather large "drops"...

Posted
40 minutes ago, Mike Chernecki said:

Dann, Thanks for the tip. I tried this last night and it worked wonders. Within a couple minutes the line had dried and was sanded out.. gone. Never going to use putty again to fill in a bad scribe line. 

You're very welcome, Mike!!

Posted
28 minutes ago, Tommy124 said:

Sounds good indeed!

May I ask which method / medium you use in order to apply only "a thin glaze of super glue"? Maybe a micro brush? I use Plasti-Zap aswell and seem to get it out of the bottle only in rather large "drops"...

Its an easy, quick fix.....no other supplies needed!   I have to go get new tyres put on the jeep, but when I get back, I will post some photos of what I use, okay?!

Posted
22 minutes ago, Italianhorses said:

You can also use baking soda as a filler. It dries super quick with superglue.

I've heard of that too, Alex, but the beauty of this method, is easy, quick, and uses whats already filling the line....

Posted

Yeah, soda really works best for filling large gaps, like bubbles in resin castings, etc. It dries almost instantly, which is a great advantage over fillers and putty for this kind of work.

Posted
10 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

Yeah, soda really works best for filling large gaps, like bubbles in resin castings, etc. It dries almost instantly, which is a great advantage over fillers and putty for this kind of work.

If I did resin, i'd try it for sure!....good tip to know!!

Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

Its an easy, quick fix.....no other supplies needed!   I have to go get new tyres put on the jeep, but when I get back, I will post some photos of what I use, okay?!

Sure Dann, looking forward...

And thanks Alex, I will add baking soda to my modelling inventory... ;)

Edited by Tommy124
Posted
On ‎9‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 10:55 AM, Tommy124 said:

Sounds good indeed!

May I ask which method / medium you use in order to apply only "a thin glaze of super glue"? Maybe a micro brush? I use Plasti-Zap aswell and seem to get it out of the bottle only in rather large "drops"...

Here you go, Thomas!....

-Photo 1; The demonstrator with two scratches...

-Photo 2; I cleaned out one of the deep scratches with the same tool I used to pronounce the scratches...

-Photo 3; I put a couple of drops of my Plast-Zap CA onto this klear plastic container bottom, and used this tool I made to be able to apply a VERY thin glaze on, so that sanding is easy. I use the long flat side to apply the glue with.....its a broken drill bit that I put into my pin vise backwards, and then carefully ground a sharp angle using my Dremmel, and a diamond Barrel bit.  This is the glue applicator I use the most, and I periodically scrape-off the built up glue with an old blade, and carry on!...…..been using it for 26 years!

-Photo 4; Notice how I was able to get right up against the intersection without flooding it...

-Photo 5; Heres an angle shot that shows just how thin I do it...

DSCF6585.JPG

DSCF6586.JPG

DSCF6587.JPG

DSCF6588.JPG

DSCF6589.JPG

Posted
10 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

-Photo 2; I cleaned out one of the deep scratches with the same tool I used to pronounce the scratches...

Hi Dann, many thanks for your efforts in explaining your process. No doubt about it, I will need to make myself a reasonable glue applicator too... Up to now I habe been mainly using pointed toothpicks, but there's a limit to how well that works.

I have one more question though. Isn't it part of the process to intentionally fill some of the sanded "plastic dust" into the scratches, along with the CA? In your description it sounds to me like you rather cleaned the scratches from dust...?

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Tommy124 said:

Hi Dann, many thanks for your efforts in explaining your process. No doubt about it, I will need to make myself a reasonable glue applicator too... Up to now I habe been mainly using pointed toothpicks, but there's a limit to how well that works.

I have one more question though. Isn't it part of the process to intentionally fill some of the sanded "plastic dust" into the scratches, along with the CA? In your description it sounds to me like you rather cleaned the scratches from dust...?

Hey, Thomas!, in photo 2,  I show only one scratch filled in, but the other was still filled with the dust for me to show you in photo 4....

Edited by Dann Tier
Posted
8 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

Hey, Thomas!, in photo 2,  I show only one scratch filled in, but the other was still filled with the dust for me to show you in photo 4....

Okay, Dann, I got it now. Thanks again.

Posted

Once again Dann, thanks for taking the time to explain how you fill scratches.  I have used super glue for some time now. I usually, but not always, hit it with accelerator.  For me, the trick is to NOT wait too long before you start sanding the super glue.  It may be my imagination, but I think the super glue gets harder the longer it sets.  If for some reason I let it sit overnight, it is hard as heck to sand the next day.

Posted
15 minutes ago, Nacho Z said:

Once again Dann, thanks for taking the time to explain how you fill scratches.  I have used super glue for some time now. I usually, but not always, hit it with accelerator.  For me, the trick is to NOT wait too long before you start sanding the super glue.  It may be my imagination, but I think the super glue gets harder the longer it sets.  If for some reason I let it sit overnight, it is hard as heck to sand the next day.

You bet, John!, I never use accelerator, the Plasti Zap I use sets fast, and even when it sets for days, its not bad at all to sand. When scratch filling, its so thin, that I can sand almost immediately.

  • 2 weeks later...

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