1948* Chevrolet Canopy Express

[Danno]

Epic.

[89AKurt]

41 minutes ago, Danno said:

Epic.

... screw up? ?  Thank you.

I was able to save this.  The beauty of building beaters, when you need to fix something, you can't really tell.  First thing was to grind out the firewall, also could tell the steering shaft/box wasn't going to fit, so ripped out the fender well.

Fabricated new "sheet metal" from sheet styrene, and fit the steering unit.

Guess I really just wanted to use the WW2 era zinc chromate primer color, which gave it a bomber look.

Glued on the bumpers, which I didn't distress, sometimes one gets new bumpers when fixing up a beater like this.  Also put the hood badges on, the Detail Resources were acquired a long time ago, one pair is Thriftmaster which is really cool, the Detail Master photo-etch does not have this (which I also have, but decided not to use).

Bumper looks crooked, but it's put on correctly.  But these old trucks are never straight.  ?

I constructed this so tight, that I don't really need to glue the body to the chassis, but will in critical spots when I do the final assembly.  Set it up, with the super fragile mirrors in place (not glued), and grill in place (needs detailing).  The front drop is almost imperceptible, but with the other model for comparison it shows.  I'm pleased with the headlights, with curved reflectors, the Texaco ones just look blah.

Next will be the glass.  Needs a front license plate bracket, those usually broke off anyway, but have something in mind.....  Taking a break from this project, since I'm waiting on the chromed dash.  Wife is demanding some time with me too. ?

[espo]

That rear bumper may have had it's mounting bracket bent from using the bumper as a step to get into the rear, maybe. 

[89AKurt]

12 hours ago, espo said:

That rear bumper may have had it's mounting bracket bent from using the bumper as a step to get into the rear, maybe. 

Sounds plausible. ?  All it would take is backing up into something too.  Matter of fact, was thinking of fabricating a simple step, with diamond plate, a good shin banger.

Wet-sanded the body, and then sprayed Dullcoat with Africa Korps dust again.  Almost lost a tailgate latch, good thing I did it over a big bowl!

[David G.]

Wow, the saga continues. 

Will we get a chance to see this one in person at DSC this year?

David G.

[89AKurt]

2 hours ago, David G. said:

Wow, the saga continues. 

Will we get a chance to see this one in person at DSC this year?

David G.

Have a very short list of tasks, very good chance.  The only problem could be not getting the chrome plating parts back in time, since the only place in the USA is swamped.  My hope of course is YES!  This project will proudly display the special plates DSC is producing.

[Danno]

You did NOT hinge that tailgate brake light!

OMG. You DID! 

Wow.

[89AKurt]

11 hours ago, Danno said:

You did NOT hinge that tailgate brake light!

OMG. You DID! 

Wow.

? It's an important part of the Canopy Express, I'm sure it's a rare part unto itself.  I scratch-built the whole unit. ?

[89AKurt]

Wet-sanded one more time, then sprayed another Dullcoat with Africa Korps dust.

Received the chromed dash and door handles, painting the dash will be next.  I *have to* try out the teeny tiny toggle switches, the windshield wiper switch and heater fan had switches above the radio.

[Dann Tier]

WOW!!!!....i can see the finish line for this beauty!!!

[89AKurt]

2 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

WOW!!!!....i can see the finish line for this beauty!!!

I know right?  But have some more things to do, such as when researching for the oil filter lines, the kit's filter just isn't correct, need to scratch-build a whole new unit.  Doing this is bringing back memories of owning the '48, doing an oil change was messy, had to sacrifice numerous rags to soak up the oil in the can.  Charming that these were optional, my pickup didn't have one, got it along with a bunch of other parts from a dude in town who had a '41 pickup for a daily driver.

Just thought I ought to look at my photos on Flickr, took one while driving, knowing I was going to let it go.  Now I see an oil pressure gauge should be added. ?  Another thing I *should* add, is the stainless window frame, I replaced a painted frame because the dude had one.

Edited March 12, 2020 by 89AKurt

[espo]

The Oil Filter , like you mentioned, was an after market affair at that time and up thru the '55 model run with Chevrolet. A '51 Chevy I had many years ago had it mounted to the Intake Manifold between the Carb. and the Fire Wall. Since this is now a customized engine you could mount it anywhere or even on the Firewall. A service note. I used to use a hand held suction gun to remove the oil from the Filter Can when changing the Oil Filter. 

[89AKurt]

14 hours ago, espo said:

The Oil Filter , like you mentioned, was an after market affair at that time and up thru the '55 model run with Chevrolet. A '51 Chevy I had many years ago had it mounted to the Intake Manifold between the Carb. and the Fire Wall. Since this is now a customized engine you could mount it anywhere or even on the Firewall. A service note. I used to use a hand held suction gun to remove the oil from the Filter Can when changing the Oil Filter. 

Yep, the twin carbs leave no room, I mounted the horn on the intake.  Need to evaluate firewall or fender.  That tool would have been handy.  On the Ferrari I just finished, the two filters are upside down, must be lots of fun to replace.  I've modified the filter, and painted orange, but that's it to date.  Made a step for the back bumper.  Painted the dash too.  Have a model swap in Phoenix tomorrow.

[espo]

You want a fun and very messy Oil Filter change, look at some of the early AMC Rambler Americans with the in line 6 cylinder. The filter was mounted on top of the engine and upside down. You could let it drain out thru the oil pan for a long time but there would still be about a half a quart of oil in the filter. I would place all the old paper windshield towels I could find then spin it off as fast as I could and then turn it upright. That way you only spilled about a quarter of a quart of oil and hope that the paper towels got most of it. 

[misterNNL]

On 3/12/2020 at 1:30 PM, 89AKurt said:

I know right?  But have some more things to do, such as when researching for the oil filter lines, the kit's filter just isn't correct, need to scratch-build a whole new unit.  Doing this is bringing back memories of owning the '48, doing an oil change was messy, had to sacrifice numerous rags to soak up the oil in the can.  Charming that these were optional, my pickup didn't have one, got it along with a bunch of other parts from a dude in town who had a '41 pickup for a daily driver.

Just thought I ought to look at my photos on Flickr, took one while driving, knowing I was going to let it go.  Now I see an oil pressure gauge should be added. ?  Another thing I *should* add, is the stainless window frame, I replaced a painted frame because the dude had one.

Thanks for posting the engine photo as not everyone knows where stuff was and/or should be attached and how simple the engines were in that era.

[Tom Geiger]

On 3/13/2020 at 12:05 PM, espo said:

The Oil Filter , like you mentioned, was an after market affair at that time and up thru the '55 model run with Chevrolet. 

Maybe a bit later. I had a 56 110 2 door sedan with a six and no oil filter. I bought it from the original little old lady owner in 1976.

[89AKurt]

42 minutes ago, Tom Geiger said:

Maybe a bit later. I had a 56 110 2 door sedan with a six and no oil filter. I bought it from the original little old lady owner in 1976.

You probably spent as much as a rare model kit cost nowadays too. 

Since I downloaded pictures unrelated to this, will post just-one-more-step.  (pun intended)
 

 

[Tom Geiger]

5 minutes ago, 89AKurt said:

You probably spent as much as a rare model kit cost nowadays too. 

Yup! Paid a grand sum of $500 for that car!  58,000 miles, Florida car with no rust!

A funny thing, I was 18 then and that 20 year old car seemed ancient, and got noticed. Today I passed a 2000 Celica in traffic and it just looked normal!

[89AKurt]

4 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Yup! Paid a grand sum of $500 for that car!  58,000 miles, Florida car with no rust!

A funny thing, I was 18 then and that 20 year old car seemed ancient, and got noticed. Today I passed a 2000 Celica in traffic and it just looked normal!

You know we are showing our age.  Arizona has Historical license plates, any car 25 years old qualifies.  Saw a beater Subaru wagon with them, tags cost less is why.

I detailed the dash tonight, but not the speedometer and other gauge yet, so no pictures.  Also glued on my newly chromed door handles, one in the classic position. I should reduce these and print on paper, worked well with my VW Beetle. 

 

Edited March 15, 2020 by 89AKurt
spillchick

[espo]

16 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Maybe a bit later. I had a 56 110 2 door sedan with a six and no oil filter. I bought it from the original little old lady owner in 1976.

Perhaps you meant yours was a 210. Just so happens my Father bought a new '56 210, a 4door of course . The car was also a 6 cylinder with a 3-speed stick and no overdrive or radio. Dear old dad always was a little tight when it came to cars. I think his philosophy  was they nothing more than a means of transportation and nothing more. When I stated the '56 model year for the start of the standard oil filter I was thinking of the V-8. I remember the '55 Chevrolets with the V-8 had an add on filter usually mounted on the passenger side front of the engine or on top of the intake manifold. This begs the question, since Chevrolet was designing a completely new v-8 engine why didn't they include an oil filter. They knew this was an important feature to have particularly with the oil contamination that they knew existed, and the other GM lines already had built in oil filters ?     

[89AKurt]

Came close to finishing, but typical for an extreme conversion custom crackpot project, something slows it down.  Working on the last details.  Mirror added to the windshield, including the mirror face which is salvaged point & shoot camera LCD screen part.  Made a door window, from food package.  Oil pressure gauge made from aluminum plate, decal, sprue.  Heater shutoff at the water pump.

Wired the engine.  Plug wires, starter wire to battery.  Drove myself crazy with the wires, I started with TJ Models and got really pissed off because it did not hold shape and did not seem to hold glue, so throwing that junk away.  Don't think I pointed this detail out before, the running board ribs should be standing, not grooves, had reduced the edges to correct that.

Other wires are for the oil filter lines, and heater hoses.  Drove myself crazy with Detail Master hose clamps.  Also had to make a generator bracket since I broke off that part.

Painted the gauges, really nice detail on the kit.  Broke the shifter arm, so made a new one from wire (could have used a pin).  Studio 27 toggle switch.  Hobby Design photo-etch knobs, they are really allen head screws.

Getting everything together is such a trick, was hoping this was the last time......

But of course not.  Since the dash is now glued in, found there is interference which is not allowing the body to set all the way down.  Used a scraper to thin the body.

Reassembled again, still a problem. ?

Going to remove some of the dash edge next.  I vaguely recall this area being a problem.  Added the Detail Master photo-etch wipers, added some thickness with plastic to the arm.  Calling it a long day.

[espo]

The level of detail in this build it is hard sometimes to realize this is 1/25 scale and not the real thing.  The problem with the body and dash board is a pretty common one with any resin based build I have done. The resin bodies seem to be just a little bit thicker in areas that are tight even on plastic kits. 

[89AKurt]

On 3/16/2020 at 9:20 AM, espo said:

The level of detail in this build it is hard sometimes to realize this is 1/25 scale and not the real thing.  The problem with the body and dash board is a pretty common one with any resin based build I have done. The resin bodies seem to be just a little bit thicker in areas that are tight even on plastic kits. 

? What is faking you out, is the weathering; IMHO super glossy models look fake, especially if no tiny details are done (flat photo-etch does not count, in fact looks more fake).  Thank you for the comment about resin bodies being thicker, I really attacked the area under the windshield, the body came inside at about 1/16" more than it should have, so removed all the way to the glass, and shaved a little off the edge of the dash.  That did the job, but still had ZERO slop in final assembly, it was like putting on cowboy boots, and having to stomp on the floor for the final drive home.  And to annoy me to the end, the back of the floor interferes with the tailgate for closing now, never did before.

Last kit parts to detail were the wheels.  Last scratch-built part was the front license plate holder, and had to re-glue the Detail Master wiper blades back on.

I screwed up two rims putting the tires on, but won't be seen (could say it's curb rash, but on wrong side ?).  I intentionally made the wheels and tires look fresh, sort of important to not drive on 72 year old original bias-ply tires and rusty rims. ?

Glued the wheels on!  I had airbrushed more dust & rust underneath.

Last detail painting was in the back. ?  Also put the special plates on.

DONE! ?

[espo]

I love the paint splattered about in the bed, even has a knot or two in the tailgate chain. In my mind it's the little things that give any model additional character.    

[Dann Tier]

This thing is Beautifully PERFECT!!!!!!.....belongs in a museum!!