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How am I strip paint off a model car body


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My personal experience has been the better the item had been prepped for paint ie. sanded, primered etc. the harder it is to strip. Just trying to let you know that you may well have to sand a part that the paint (or primer) wouldn't strip off completely. The type of paint used could be a factor also.

I've bought poorly prepped glue-bombs that stripped easy. I am stripping a car body now that was prepped well. The stripper took the top-coat off but I will probably need to sand the primer off. I have it in Super Clean.

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28 minutes ago, DPNM said:

My personal experience has been the better the item had been prepped for paint ie. sanded, primered etc. the harder it is to strip. Just trying to let you know that you may well have to sand a part that the paint (or primer) wouldn't strip off completely. The type of paint used could be a factor also.

I've bought poorly prepped glue-bombs that stripped easy. I am stripping a car body now that was prepped well. The stripper took the top-coat off but I will probably need to sand the primer off. I have it in Super Clean.

Try some alcohol on the primer.

 

 

Steve

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Thanks Steve. That was my next plan. I have some 91%.

There is still a little top coat on one door and some on the trunk. I figured I'd soak it in SC again just to get it off first.

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Super Clean is one of the best paint and chrome removers on the market.

It's easy to work with and generally yields great results.

That said, nothing is perfect for every circumstance, but there's really no better place to start.

Don't get conned into Purple Power or Simple Green as a substitute.

Anybody who has used them objectively will tell you that they are inferior products to Super Clean.

 

 

Steve

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Just now, DPNM said:

Thanks Steve. That was my next plan. I have some 91%.

There is still a little top coat on one door and some on the trunk. I figured I'd soak it in SC again just to get it off first.

On occasion I have had very good luck removing primer by simply wiping it with an alcohol swab.

Other times, it has little effect.

Most times the Super Clean will take the primer right off with a second soak, but a lot depends on the primer you're using.

I have heard people complain that Tamiya primer is almost impossible to remove.

Another reason to avoid it in my opinion.

But opinions aside, the primers that I use are usually not a terribly difficult task for Super Clean.

 

 

Steve

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I don’t claim to be an expert on this but I have had great results with a product called ELO by Testors  I have used it to remove the clear coat, paint and primer right down to the bare plastic with no ill effects  It works fast also much easier than the “purple pond” that everyone talks about 

 

 

1DACD5C5-DB71-4547-8196-4A9A53D18364.jpeg

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I’m betting many people don’t like it but I’ve been using brake fluid with no issues but I have heard it can be hard on the newer styrene. After I’m done stripping it I was it with spray nine then clean with prep all. I’ve been having good luck with that but I am doing older kits...

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2 hours ago, Redisetta said:

I don’t claim to be an expert on this but I have had great results with a product called ELO by Testors  I have used it to remove the clear coat, paint and primer right down to the bare plastic with no ill effects  It works fast also much easier than the “purple pond” that everyone talks about 

 

 

1DACD5C5-DB71-4547-8196-4A9A53D18364.jpeg

Does it work on automotive lacquer?

How much does it cost?

 

Steve

 

 

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Don’t know about automotive paint , I stay away from automotive paints on my models. The description does say its works on most paints though. I have personally used it on Tamiya ,Model Master, and Testors enamel which I use for airbrushing.  

It’s  about $ 9.00 a can. Well worth it if you’re trying to save a model from the scrap heap in my opinion 

Ray

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2 hours ago, Redisetta said:

Don’t know about automotive paint , I stay away from automotive paints on my models. The description does say its works on most paints though. I have personally used it on Tamiya ,Model Master, and Testors enamel which I use for airbrushing.  

It’s  about $ 9.00 a can. Well worth it if you’re trying to save a model from the scrap heap in my opinion 

Ray

The only reason I ask is because a LOT of guys use Duplicolor or one of the many automotive lacquer after market paints like MCW or Scale Finishes paints.

Super Clean will remove all of the above and will make short work of Testors enamels and lacquers for around $9.00 a gallon.

 

 

Steve

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Yes it does and you can get  it from Active Powersports for $8.36 plus shipping. You only need to brush it on, not submerge the body/parts. In about 10-20 minutes, the paint starts to wrinkle. Using a nylon toothbrush and some dishwashing liquid, scrub the paint off under running warm water to remove the gunk. Reapply ELO if there is any remaining residue.

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18 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

On occasion I have had very good luck removing primer by simply wiping it with an alcohol swab.

Other times, it has little effect.

Most times the Super Clean will take the primer right off with a second soak, but a lot depends on the primer you're using.

I have heard people complain that Tamiya primer is almost impossible to remove.

Another reason to avoid it in my opinion.

But opinions aside, the primers that I use are usually not a terribly difficult task for Super Clean.

 

 

Steve

Couple of things here

Super Clean will remove Tamiya primer, you may have to use your elbow some and scrub, but it will come off, now,  Ive found that its just easier once you get down to the primer, to use the 91% alcohol and it will just literately wipe it off with little effort. It really depends on a few things , the type of paint that you use over it seems to make it easier/harder to strip is what Ive found out in my 100s of times stripping my builds.

Second, I find it odd that you avoid one the best primers to use in the hobby because it might be difficult to strip, to each their I own I suppose on that one.

Edited by martinfan5
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I gotta split this reply up due ton that annoying "404 Error" nonsense.

Remember the Lindberg '53 Ford Victoria I was converting into a '52 Mainline Business coupe/NYPD RMP?

When I bought it as an open box sale item, the body and hood were sprayed with a bright neon green lacquer over the unprimed plastic. I brushed ELO on the parts and within 20 minutes, the paint was wrinkled. I removed it per the previous post; and, after reapplying ELO to remove any remaining paint residue, the parts were bright and white. ELO works better than Super Clean, Purple Pond, brake fluid, oven cleaner. You don't need to submerge the parts, as with the other stuff. Youalsondon't have to wait hours, days or weeks.

 

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18 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Super Clean is one of the best paint and chrome removers on the market.

It's easy to work with and generally yields great results.

That said, nothing is perfect for every circumstance, but there's really no better place to start.

Don't get conned into Purple Power or Simple Green as a substitute.

Anybody who has used them objectively will tell you that they are inferior products to Super Clean.

 

 

Steve

This is pretty much a fact right here,   you want to get the purple bottle/jug,  not the white, the white is the generic knock off and is not as strong and doenst work as good or as fast. 

Its only a few dollars more to get the Super Clean, its well worth that extra few bucks.

 

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4 minutes ago, martinfan5 said:

Super Clean will remove Tamiya primer, you may have to use your elbow some and scrub, but it will come off, now, for some reason,  not always though, but in most cases it will remove it.    Ive found that its just easier once you get down to the primer, to use the 91% alcohol and it will just literately wipe it off with little effort.

That's too much unnecessary work. This is the '53 Ford body using only ELO and very little, if any, elbow grease:

image.png.aaf6e795ed8a207806482c7f40853d13.png

You're not getting that from Super Clean in 20 minutes. And, like I said, you don't need a tub full of ELO to get it done.

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18 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Try some alcohol on the primer.

 

 

Steve

I have used 91% alcohol on Duplicolor paints and their clear(not enamel). It started to work in 20 minutes. My general rules for stripping is lacquer use alcohol. All else Super Clean and sometimes Easy Off

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15 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

That's too much unnecessary work. This is the '53 Ford body using only ELO and very little, if any, elbow grease:

image.png.aaf6e795ed8a207806482c7f40853d13.png

You're not getting that from Super Clean in 20 minutes. And, like I said, you don't need a tub full of ELO to get it done.

Ive had Super Clean strip stuff in 20 minutes too with little effort on my part, so it just all comes down to what you are trying to strip.  But if you like using that ELO, then by all means , keep using it, and I will use what I know works for me.   But as much as I strip stuff, its more economical for me to use Super Clean.

But, I am interested in doing  a head to head challenge for my Youtube channel with Super Clean and ELO from Testors to see if it is really better than Super Clean and to see if it can remove all the different types of paints .

Edited by martinfan5
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4 minutes ago, 935k3 said:

I have used 91% alcohol on Duplicolor paints and their clear(not enamel). It started to work in 20 minutes. My general rules for stripping is lacquer use alcohol. All else Super Clean and sometimes Easy Off

This is the general rule of thumb that I use too, minus Easy Off.

Edited by martinfan5
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I only can speak from the results I get. I've used the other things in the past and have never gotten results as good as from ELO.

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Of course Joe, as I am only speaking of the results that I get,  but I am interested in trying the ELO you posted about , If there is a better way, and even faster way, I am all for it.

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