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If you do find that the tip on the larger markers has dried up, you can recover it by spraying it with a spritz of airbrush cleaner/liquid reamer, pulling it out, flipping it round and doing the other end as well if necessary. Just make sure that you get the ink flowing through and rewetting the tip by drawing on some scrap paper before applying it to the model, otherwise you'll be applying airbrush cleaner to your topcoat...



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When I was restoring this '63 Porsche 356, I used the Molotow Chrome to redo the wheels and mirrors.


One thing I remember is that I put the wheels in the dehydrator, but not right away. I think I waited a bit till the paint was dry to the touch, then put them in to fully cure. But..........like others have said, the paint is not that durable for excessive handling, so it's a good idea to make this one of the LAST things you do before calling it all done.

And yes, I've found that the refills do seem to work better than the pens. The pens can be iffy after a point, but the refills if kept tightly sealed should last you quite a while.

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  • 2 months later...

I had also noticed that my Molotow pen mainly the 1mm, was not flowing as well as it once did and the chrome didn’t seem as shiny as before. So what I did was pull the nib out, remove the chrome piece, unscrew the black part and remove the clear round thing with the spring in the center where you would refill the pen at and I soaked all the pieces in 91% isopropyl alcohol. I also put some of the alcohol in a spray bottle so I could spray the nib down good and remove all the chrome from it. Doing this turns the nib back to a white color. After everything was completely cleaned and dried good I put it back together. When you do this it’s just like opening up a new one. You have to shake well and prime the nib again by pushing down on it a few times. Doing this restored its performance back like it was brand new again. So, if your pen stops working properly for you, maybe try this out. Hope this helps someone. 

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