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1968 Oldsmobile 442 W-30


StevenGuthmiller

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On 2/27/2020 at 8:32 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I understand completely Kevin.

 

If you go back and look at some of my curbside builds over the past few years, you'll see that outside of paint and possibly a few other small details, most of those interiors were changed very little from the kit parts.

It's a fairly recent development for me to begin putting more effort into the interiors.

Just sort of a natural progression I guess.

I find myself more and more recognizing the philosophy that "every sub assembly is a model in itself" and I have really been enjoying becoming occupied with exploring what I'm capable of doing with some of my projects.

Not all of them mind you, but I feel some are worthy of the extra attention.

Especially something like this Olds, which is very likely the rarest kit that I have in my collection.

Steve

I'm undergoing a bit of an evolution myself, I suppose. I started the first four or five cars (after I joined here five years ago) by painting and polishing the bodies, then losing interest when it came time to do the chassis, interiors and stuff. From now on, I intend to do all that boring, but necessary stuff first, then (and only then), paint and polish up the body. I'm also slowly working my way toward the eventuality of wiring/plumbing some exposed engines, but I'm in no real rush for that. Quantity is certainly not my goal, but rather quality, or at least the best quality that I'm currently capable of.

My '70 Challenger T/A is a perfect example. Very little actually needs to be done to finish it, but I lost interest when it came time to setup the chassis and finish off the interior. I really need to finish it, as it's one of my all-time favorite cars.

Edited by Roadrunner
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1 hour ago, Roadrunner said:

I'm undergoing a bit of an evolution myself, I suppose. I started the first four or five cars (after I joined here five years ago) by painting and polishing the bodies, then losing interest when it came time to do the chassis, interiors and stuff. From now on, I intend to do all that boring, but necessary stuff first, then (and only then), paint and polish up the body. I'm also slowly working my way toward the eventuality of wiring/plumbing some exposed engines, but I'm in no real rush for that. Quantity is certainly not my goal, but rather quality, or at least the best quality that I'm currently capable of.

My '70 Challenger T/A is a perfect example. Very little actually needs to be done to finish it, but I lost interest when it came time to setup the chassis and finish off the interior. I really need to finish it, as it's one of my all-time favorite cars.

I hear you Kevin!

 

I've had the same "boredom" issue especially when it came to doing several kits with basically the same chassis and drive train.

Don't get me wrong, I love Chevrolets, but once you've seen a 427 Chevy engine, you've pretty much seen them all.

The excitement comes back into the equation for me when I start building cars with more unusual engine configurations.

Mopar and Ford seem to have a little more variation in the appearance of many of their engines and induction systems, as does this Olds with the Oldsmobile unique cold air intake system.

 

I've also started becoming a lot more interested in interior detail once I started getting away from just painting and finishing what was included in the kit.

I find I really enjoy blowing apart these old vintage kit tubs and trying my hand at making them a little more interesting on the inside.

It's a challenge at times, but the results are very satisfying.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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Back to work again! ^_^

 

I decided that I really wanted to bypass the kit glass on this project and use something thinner.

I have done this in the past, but just glued in the film and left it at that.

This time I thought that I would try my hand at a technique that I saw some time ago on the board.

 

I thought that I could kill two birds with one stone and refine how the glass was mounted, and at the same time, improve the appearance of the inside of the body.

 

I started by fashioning a pair of A pillar covers from some plastic rod and installing them on the inside of the A pillars.

This not only will improve the look of the glass area from the inside, but doubles as a mounting medium that will hold the glass in place at the sides with friction.

I should be able to glue only the bottom of the glass to the inside of the cowl, and maybe a little on the top which should be sufficient to hold the glass securely in place without any unsightly edges or glue being evident.

 

While I was at it, I made a trim piece for the top of the glass as well for the glass to butt up to.

 

So far it looks like it will work very well.

 

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Steve

 

 

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That looks great Steve!  I’ve been experimenting with a similar technique lately too...I MUCH prefer the look of a thin windshield compared to a lot of kit pieces, and I HATE replying on tiny little gluing surfaces, so making a little frame so the glass almost snaps right in there is a big plus for me!

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Thanks guys!

 

30 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

I can't wait to see how you do the backlite !

Being as the backlite is curved differently, I'll likely just glue it in place and then add some trim over it after the fact.

 

32 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

Now , how about the separate shoulder harnesses of the seatbelts ? 

That's a thought.

I don't have any seat belt material of any kind, and I had no plans to add seat belts to the seats, but it's something to mull over. ;)

 

 

 

 

Steve

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That's yet another item I've never seriously considered doing (despite having thought about it), adding interior trim to the glass, or adding a headliner for that matter. I usually do try to deal with the inevitable ejector pin marks underneath the roof though.

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21 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I don't have any seat belt material of any kind, and I had no plans to add seat belts to the seats, but it's something to mull over. ;)

 

21 hours ago, gman said:

If you have a craft store nearby, odds are that they will have some fine nylon ribbon of an appropriate size that will work with photo etched GM-style buckles. 

The smallest ribbon I found in craft stores near me was 3 mm. I went on eBay and found rolls 2.5mm in white that could be dyed any color with Sharpies. I find the 2.5 to be more and scale and work with photo etched buckles.

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Thanks for the info guys.

At this point, I'm doubting whether I will add any seat belts.

That would require me to run out and buy more stuff. :P

 

 

While I'm here, I had to shoot a couple of shots of the beautiful engine bay detail decals that Bob Spedding, (TooOld) made for me!

Clear decals applied over foil.

 

 

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Steve

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Boy , did I open a crate o' apples by mentioning the shoulder restraints ! Haha . Sorry about that , Steven ---- I didn't realise that my suggestion would incite such a reaction .

Those decals look awesome ! I wonder how many people left those induction hoses connected / uncapped during snow or heavy rain ? If anything , a bit of moisture would do help prevent the dreaded detonation of lower-octane gas ---- so long as it doesn't ice-over the carburetor .

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5 hours ago, 1972coronet said:

Boy , did I open a crate o' apples by mentioning the shoulder restraints ! Haha . Sorry about that , Steven ---- I didn't realise that my suggestion would incite such a reaction .

Those decals look awesome ! I wonder how many people left those induction hoses connected / uncapped during snow or heavy rain ? If anything , a bit of moisture would do help prevent the dreaded detonation of lower-octane gas ---- so long as it doesn't ice-over the carburetor .

Thanks John.

I have no problem at all with people offering suggestions!

I appreciate any that I get!

Some times I roll with the ideas that I get, some times not. ;)

 

Not much else for progress today, but I did get the tint band on the windshield.

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Steve

 

 

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I've been wracking my brain for quite some time on how to create an acceptable air cleaner element in light of the fact that this model will have a removable and open air cleaner.

My original solution was to use a modified open element air cleaner from another kit, but I was not happy with the fact that it would have no detail on the inside of the element.

So I decided to try making one from scratch using this hair brained method. :rolleyes:

 

I started by cutting a strip of .015" sheet styrene and then giving it several liberal coats of liquid cement to soften the plastic.

While the plastic was still soft, I quickly rolled over it with the knurled handle of a pin vice to give it the knurled texture.

I performed his operation on both sides of the strip to give it texture inside and out.

 

Next, I ground out the center of a wheel back from the parts box, sanded down the outer perimeter, and sanded it extremely thin to replicate the top seal.

Then I cemented the element around the bottom of the ring a little bit at a time until completely surrounded.

 

Once the glue has cured completely, I will sand the base down until the element fits flush inside of the air cleaner.

A bottom seal is not out of the question at this point, but I will need to see whether or not adding one would eliminate too much of the element detail.

 

 

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Steve

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3 hours ago, Jim B said:

I can't believe you made an air filter element!

Well, with the lid of the air cleaner being removable, I figured that it was necessary to have a filter. ^_^

 

 

3 hours ago, Jim B said:

What did you use for the tinted band at the top of the windshield?

A very light coat of Testors transparent blue acrylic thinned with Windex and air brushed.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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What a awesome build I can't wait to see this one done that color looks great on that car the 68 442 was one of the ones on my top 10 list there was something about it that just always looked great back in 68 when JoHan came out with the kit I had two of them one I did stock the other was set up for the drag strip God I wish I would have kept them I started to build model car in 1962 when I was 10 and built them till the mid 70's then got ride of every thing and got back into it in the late 90's and had to start all over again finding a lot of the early 60's and 70's kits they sure not $2.00 any more.! I have payed up to $175.00 for some. in 62 my first kit was the AMT 62 Ford it was $1.50 the can of spray paint was 49c the 4 little bottles of paint for the detail were 10c each and the tube of glue was 10c the hole thing coast me $2.50.

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  1. Hi Steve, vey nice air filter element! One thing, I can hear Mrs. Nazz asking, who's going to see it. LOL I would like to know how you made the dome light?
  2. This build just keeps getting better and better!
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