streetmachine11 Posted November 2, 2019 Posted November 2, 2019 (edited) hi all, going to attempt a tube chassis build on this one. never done anything like this mostly just used a doner kit. I wanted to try a more uncommon car as the 61 is a favorite thought I'd give it a shot. layed out the body on graph paper and made some basic rails and a hoop bar. thanks for looking Edited February 16, 2022 by streetmachine11 1
streetmachine11 Posted November 8, 2019 Author Posted November 8, 2019 small update.wheels came in today. polished up the spokes and assembled beadlocks and centers. now the rear frame can be built now that I know where the tires are. time to build the rear end thanks for looking
streetmachine11 Posted November 9, 2019 Author Posted November 9, 2019 PappyD340 Mariojr thanks! its its labor intensive building from scratch but that's the fun part
streetmachine11 Posted November 11, 2019 Author Posted November 11, 2019 small update made a jig to hold the body and chassis together and at ride height. got more of the main cage done finished the floor braces and got the rear rails in place still alot of tubes to go. thanks for looking comments and criticisms welcome 2
Claude Thibodeau Posted November 17, 2019 Posted November 17, 2019 Hi! Great project. When I built custom frames like yours, I often use clear styrene pill-boxes (or Crazy-Glue boxes) as the basic material for the rear tubs enclosures... They are avail in many sizes, and react well to styrene glue. Half-round styrene (Plastruct) in very small size can be used on it to replicate the beading/embossing usually done on aluminium tubs to stiffen them. The Revell Mat and Debby Hayes TBird is also a very good donor for rear tubs, but be advised that they are very tall, meaning the may interfere with the tulip panel at the base of the rear window. But I'm sure you may have your own plan. Oh, the joy of scratchbuilding! Keep going. Inspiring! CT
Fairfax Posted November 19, 2019 Posted November 19, 2019 Another start to the evil machine. Excellent !
streetmachine11 Posted December 6, 2019 Author Posted December 6, 2019 some more on the 61 impala. assembled the rear axle and 4link bars just to fit in the chassis. after the 4 like is in place I'll disassemble and paint. thanks for looking 2
streetmachine11 Posted December 6, 2019 Author Posted December 6, 2019 On 11/16/2019 at 12:15 PM, NYLIBUD said: Looking good. thanks ron appreciate it
streetmachine11 Posted December 6, 2019 Author Posted December 6, 2019 On 11/16/2019 at 7:09 PM, Claude Thibodeau said: Hi! Great project. When I built custom frames like yours, I often use clear styrene pill-boxes (or Crazy-Glue boxes) as the basic material for the rear tubs enclosures... They are avail in many sizes, and react well to styrene glue. Half-round styrene (Plastruct) in very small size can be used on it to replicate the beading/embossing usually done on aluminium tubs to stiffen them. The Revell Mat and Debby Hayes TBird is also a very good donor for rear tubs, but be advised that they are very tall, meaning the may interfere with the tulip panel at the base of the rear window. But I'm sure you may have your own plan. Oh, the joy of scratchbuilding! Keep going. Inspiring! CT hey claude, thanks for this idea I may have to look into that. I thought of using kit tubbs but most seem to be to narrow for this body. defenitly making some probably going to be decaled with carbon fiber. thanks jason
streetmachine11 Posted December 6, 2019 Author Posted December 6, 2019 On 11/19/2019 at 6:20 AM, Fairfax said: Another start to the evil machine. Excellent ! thanks its making slow progress
Claude Thibodeau Posted December 7, 2019 Posted December 7, 2019 7 hours ago, streetmachine11 said: some more on the 61 impala. assembled the rear axle and 4link bars just to fit in the chassis. after the 4 like is in place I'll disassemble and paint. thanks for looking Hi! Superb assembly, very detailed. Who makes them, because they look slightly "thicker" than average photo-etch... Just curious... CT
streetmachine11 Posted December 7, 2019 Author Posted December 7, 2019 1 hour ago, Claude Thibodeau said: Hi! Superb assembly, very detailed. Who makes them, because they look slightly "thicker" than average photo-etch... Just curious... CT claude, the rear axle and 4link are from futurattraction
Claude Thibodeau Posted December 7, 2019 Posted December 7, 2019 11 hours ago, streetmachine11 said: claude, the rear axle and 4link are from futurattraction Hi! Thank you Jason, for sharing the info. Top notch stuff, it appears. Sure beats making my own out of styrene. I will order some, for certain! CT
misterNNL Posted December 7, 2019 Posted December 7, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 7:00 AM, PappyD340 said: Nice start, keep it going! How did you determine the width of the engine mounting rails in the center of the tube chassis?
comp1839 Posted December 8, 2019 Posted December 8, 2019 jason, just passing through and i saw your build. Awesome job! you are doing a fantastic job at scratch building. this should be off the hook when you're done. i have a comment or two for you. you're going to spend alot of time on this so, i'm guessing you want really good accuracy. you may want to build you're chassis with different sizes of tubing/ rod. tubing in a real cage runs from 1" up to 1 5/8". not saying bar placement needs to be perfect but, varying the diameters will help with the "look". here's some drawings with some helpful info. hope it helps.
streetmachine11 Posted December 12, 2019 Author Posted December 12, 2019 On 12/8/2019 at 9:12 AM, comp1839 said: jason, just passing through and i saw your build. Awesome job! you are doing a fantastic job at scratch building. this should be off the hook when you're done. i have a comment or two for you. you're going to spend alot of time on this so, i'm guessing you want really good accuracy. you may want to build you're chassis with different sizes of tubing/ rod. tubing in a real cage runs from 1" up to 1 5/8". not saying bar placement needs to be perfect but, varying the diameters will help with the "look". here's some drawings with some helpful info. hope it helps. hey dave thank you for taking the time to post those photos. the will be a great help. I'm really just winging it and going by other builders and pictures. didnt have much luck finding stuff like this and have learned alot being my first attempt. I've got some smaller tube sizes and will work on the chassis more tonight. thanks again! jason
streetmachine11 Posted December 12, 2019 Author Posted December 12, 2019 On 12/9/2019 at 9:29 AM, afx said: Great looking project. thanks! On 12/9/2019 at 11:23 AM, Jantrix said: Very impressive. I'll be following. thank you rob On 12/10/2019 at 10:11 AM, Dogfish_7 said: Amazing details and attention to them. thanks Bruce its coming along nice so far alot more to come
streetmachine11 Posted December 20, 2019 Author Posted December 20, 2019 On 12/7/2019 at 1:38 PM, misterNNL said: How did you determine the width of the engine mounting rails in the center of the tube chassis? I used the 57 pro mod as a guide for the main rail placement because there set up for a big block and that's what I'm going with
streetmachine11 Posted December 20, 2019 Author Posted December 20, 2019 hello all! small update set the engine in place (temporarily) to set up the turbos, firewall and front rails. may move the engine back a bit depending how where the turbos and piping set. also cut a turbo scoop from a resin hood and fitted to the impala hood still a little work to go but I'm liking the look. engine is a sonny's 932 powergide trans. thanks for looking 1
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