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Posted (edited)

hi all,

going to attempt a tube chassis build on this one. never done anything like this mostly just used a doner kit. I wanted to try a more uncommon car as the 61 is a favorite thought I'd give it a shot. layed out the body on graph paper and made some basic rails and a hoop bar.

thanks for looking

 

20191101_193016.thumb.jpg.2c5c5ae213d0739b5a4fa03a2934220e.jpg

 

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20191101_194858.thumb.jpg.30872c62193a18232bbf2c18a9d3de03.jpg

Edited by streetmachine11
  • Like 1
Posted

small update.wheels came in today. polished up the spokes and assembled beadlocks and centers. now the rear frame can be built now that I know where the tires are.

 

20191107_205734.thumb.jpg.7be7ca69b7511e3daf09a4da7dd4f07d.jpg

 

20191107_205913.thumb.jpg.2e0b6b8f8989e5e7fe074925c908b44a.jpg

time to build the rear end 

thanks for looking

Posted

small update  made a jig to hold the body and chassis together and at ride height. got more of the main cage done finished the floor braces and got the rear rails in place still alot of tubes to go.

20191110_163338.thumb.jpg.dd040303a580600e9a6309ffd7b92602.jpg

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20191110_163938.thumb.jpg.797d70f7ee297c2b8567207926d9c6eb.jpg

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thanks for looking

comments and criticisms welcome

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi!

Great project. When I built custom frames like yours, I often use clear styrene pill-boxes (or Crazy-Glue boxes) as the basic material for the rear tubs enclosures... They are avail in many sizes, and react well to styrene glue. Half-round styrene (Plastruct) in very small size can be used on it to replicate the beading/embossing usually done on aluminium tubs to stiffen them. 

The Revell Mat and Debby Hayes TBird is also a very good donor for rear tubs, but be advised that they are very tall, meaning the may interfere with the tulip panel at the base of the rear window. 

But I'm sure you may have your own plan. Oh, the joy of scratchbuilding! Keep going. Inspiring!

CT

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

some more on the 61 impala. assembled the rear axle and 4link bars just to fit in the chassis. after the 4 like is in place I'll disassemble and paint.

20191206_070333.thumb.jpg.5ae09ab4e4019200451363d8a2a96393.jpg

 

20191206_070241.thumb.jpg.862dbd6e98b7a920bf9f3fc681fc7a5e.jpg

 

20191206_070203.thumb.jpg.d5c1177f0d9e3bf480db32600efbe313.jpg

 

20191206_070139.thumb.jpg.7d5a562e608d87c824aca4f5699f7988.jpg

thanks for looking

  • Like 2
Posted
On 11/16/2019 at 7:09 PM, Claude Thibodeau said:

Hi!

Great project. When I built custom frames like yours, I often use clear styrene pill-boxes (or Crazy-Glue boxes) as the basic material for the rear tubs enclosures... They are avail in many sizes, and react well to styrene glue. Half-round styrene (Plastruct) in very small size can be used on it to replicate the beading/embossing usually done on aluminium tubs to stiffen them. 

The Revell Mat and Debby Hayes TBird is also a very good donor for rear tubs, but be advised that they are very tall, meaning the may interfere with the tulip panel at the base of the rear window. 

But I'm sure you may have your own plan. Oh, the joy of scratchbuilding! Keep going. Inspiring!

CT

hey claude, 

thanks for this idea I may have to look into that. I thought of using kit tubbs but most seem to be to narrow for this body. defenitly making some probably going to be decaled with carbon fiber. 

thanks 

jason

Posted
7 hours ago, streetmachine11 said:

some more on the 61 impala. assembled the rear axle and 4link bars just to fit in the chassis. after the 4 like is in place I'll disassemble and paint.

20191206_070333.thumb.jpg.5ae09ab4e4019200451363d8a2a96393.jpg

 

20191206_070241.thumb.jpg.862dbd6e98b7a920bf9f3fc681fc7a5e.jpg

 

20191206_070203.thumb.jpg.d5c1177f0d9e3bf480db32600efbe313.jpg

 

20191206_070139.thumb.jpg.7d5a562e608d87c824aca4f5699f7988.jpg

thanks for looking

Hi!

Superb assembly, very detailed. Who makes them, because they look slightly "thicker" than average photo-etch... Just curious...

CT

Posted
1 hour ago, Claude Thibodeau said:

Hi!

Superb assembly, very detailed. Who makes them, because they look slightly "thicker" than average photo-etch... Just curious...

CT

claude,

the rear axle and 4link are from futurattraction 

Posted
11 hours ago, streetmachine11 said:

claude,

the rear axle and 4link are from futurattraction 

Hi!

Thank you Jason, for sharing the info. Top notch stuff, it appears. Sure beats making my own out of styrene. I will order some, for certain!

CT

Posted
On ‎11‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 7:00 AM, PappyD340 said:

Nice start, keep it going!

How did you determine the width of the engine mounting rails in the center of the tube chassis?

Posted

jason, just passing through and i saw your build. Awesome job! you are doing a fantastic job at scratch building.  this should be off the hook when you're done. i have a  comment or two for you. you're going to spend alot of time on this so, i'm guessing you want really good accuracy. you may want to build you're chassis with different sizes of tubing/ rod. tubing in a real cage runs from 1" up to 1 5/8". not saying bar placement needs to be perfect but,  varying the diameters will help with the "look". here's some drawings with some helpful info.  hope it helps.

 

25.3.jpg

25-1E chassis spec.-25.jpg

20151001_093631.jpg

49633080-322-CE5710-Eliminator-XTR-Moly-Chassis.jpg

49633112-878-CE5710-Eliminator-XTR-Moly-Chassis.jpg

rearillust-6.jpg

Posted
On 12/8/2019 at 9:12 AM, comp1839 said:

jason, just passing through and i saw your build. Awesome job! you are doing a fantastic job at scratch building.  this should be off the hook when you're done. i have a  comment or two for you. you're going to spend alot of time on this so, i'm guessing you want really good accuracy. you may want to build you're chassis with different sizes of tubing/ rod. tubing in a real cage runs from 1" up to 1 5/8". not saying bar placement needs to be perfect but,  varying the diameters will help with the "look". here's some drawings with some helpful info.  hope it helps.

 

25.3.jpg

25-1E chassis spec.-25.jpg

20151001_093631.jpg

49633080-322-CE5710-Eliminator-XTR-Moly-Chassis.jpg

49633112-878-CE5710-Eliminator-XTR-Moly-Chassis.jpg

rearillust-6.jpg

hey dave thank you for taking the time to post those photos. the will be a great help. I'm really just winging it and going by other builders and pictures. didnt have much luck finding stuff like this and have learned alot being my first attempt. I've got some smaller tube sizes and will work on the chassis more tonight.

 

thanks again!

jason

Posted
On 12/9/2019 at 9:29 AM, afx said:

Great looking project.

thanks!

On 12/9/2019 at 11:23 AM, Jantrix said:

Very impressive. I'll be following.

thank you rob

On 12/10/2019 at 10:11 AM, Dogfish_7 said:

Amazing details and attention to them.

thanks Bruce its coming along nice so far alot more to come

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/7/2019 at 1:38 PM, misterNNL said:

How did you determine the width of the engine mounting rails in the center of the tube chassis?

I used the 57 pro mod as a guide for the main rail placement because there set up for a big block and that's what I'm going with

Posted

hello all!

small update 

set the engine in place (temporarily) to set up the turbos, firewall and front rails. may move the engine back a bit depending how where the turbos and piping set. also cut a turbo scoop from a resin hood and fitted to the impala hood still a little work to go but I'm liking the look. engine is a sonny's 932 powergide trans.

 

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thanks for looking

  • Like 1

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