What Did You Accomplish Today? (Model Car Work)

[catpack68]

Starting to get the bumpers and all accessories installed on the Hasegawa 67 VW Type 2 pick up project. Hoping to finish it up soon.

[Big Messer]

Doing work in my 1941 house truck. Things go slow because I keep making changes, but interior cabinets mostly done. 

Edited November 23 by Big Messer

[johnyrotten]

3 hours ago, catpack68 said:

Starting to get the bumpers and all accessories installed on the Hasegawa 67 VW Type 2 pick up project. Hoping to finish it up soon.

Absolutely awesome. 

[johnyrotten]

Good session at the bench. Success with embossing powder, got some detail work on the chassis done and the engine is in paint. Happy with this one so far

[meechum68]

That is fantastic work, and just a quick clarification... it's white glue then the embossing powder and let dry? 

The frame/chassis work is super nice!!  

[johnyrotten]

10 minutes ago, meechum68 said:

That is fantastic work, and just a quick clarification... it's white glue then the embossing powder and let dry? 

The frame/chassis work is super nice!!  

I actually used thinned black testors paint. I had trouble with the Elmer's glue, I tried that three different times with no success, but I'll guarantee the problem was me. But yes, slightly thinned Elmer's is what I've read from the guys that are pros at it. Thanks for the compliment on the chassis, detail work like that is my "thing". I just zone out and it happens. 

Edited November 23 by johnyrotten

[meechum68]

That's still a good tip! Options are good tbh.

 

[FoMoCo66]

Modified some vacuum formed parts I got from my friend @Alan Barton to fit on the revell 29 ford. Future project for some other time.

[Lownslow]

Weather has been terrible for painting so ive been knocking out work on builds for next year, i got body work almost done on this, i had 0 intentions of building an interceptor i wanted something less apocalyptic

 

[Mattilacken]

Been making some plumbing for my monster truck build.. some pictured some not.. I did also mount the floor and custom pedals. 

[meechum68]

1 hour ago, Mattilacken said:

Been making some plumbing for my monster truck build.. some pictured some not.. I did also mount the floor and custom pedals. 

Straight killing it man!! I am enjoying this! 

[meechum68]

17 hours ago, Lownslow said:

Weather has been terrible for painting so ive been knocking out work on builds for next year, i got body work almost done on this, i had 0 intentions of building an interceptor i wanted something less apocalyptic

 

Great looking Interceptor! 

[oldcarfan]

On 11/23/2025 at 5:46 PM, johnyrotten said:

I actually used thinned black testors paint. I had trouble with the Elmer's glue, I tried that three different times with no success, but I'll guarantee the problem was me. But yes, slightly thinned Elmer's is what I've read from the guys that are pros at it. Thanks for the compliment on the chassis, detail work like that is my "thing". I just zone out and it happens. 

I've switched to plain Testor's enamel paints for flocking as it stays wet longer than acrylics. I can usually paint it on a larger area and flock it without the paint drying before I'm done.

As for Elmer's glue, I used that originally but I noticed that it tended to shrink as it dried, leaving noticeable gap around the edges and one time, even curling away from the edge. It could just be an error on my part, but I don't have that problem with enamels. 

[meechum68]

3 minutes ago, oldcarfan said:

I've switched to plain Testor's enamel paints for flocking as it stays wet longer than acrylics. I can usually paint it on a larger area and flock it without the paint drying before I'm done.

As for Elmer's glue, I used that originally but I noticed that it tended to shrink as it dried, leaving noticeable gap around the edges and one time, even curling away from the edge. It could just be an error on my part, but I don't have that problem with enamels. 

I will give both a try since I have a window on the kit I want to try and flock. 

 

[Alan Barton]

On 11/24/2025 at 8:52 AM, FoMoCo66 said:

Modified some vacuum formed parts I got from my friend @Alan Barton to fit on the revell 29 ford. Future project for some other time.

That's looking really good, Elliot!  Great to see how well the parts fit the Revell body - I had never got around to trying them out as I made the molds decades before the Revell body hit the market.  I am intrigued that the track nose from the Revell pickup fits so well as my mould was based on that same nose but sectioned at least an eighth of an inch, I might have to look at that combo in the future.

If you wish to return the wheel arches to the stock proportions, you can use the wheel arch inserts that are attached the interior panels of the Revell kit.  You will need to make a cardboard template and do some careful trimming but it works out really need.

Cheers

Alan

Edited Thursday at 09:43 AM by Alan Barton

[atomicholiday]

Just put the finishing touches on these rims and tires yesterday.  They’ll be going on the Revell ‘69 Mustang I started over twenty years ago.  Messed up the decals back then and it got shelved.  Now I’m glad it did.  The whole project changed direction.

These rims, tires, and brakes are all 3D printed.  I got the file on Cults from ZForce model works.  His files are just awesome.👍

[stitchdup]

On 10/27/2025 at 11:12 PM, johnyrotten said:

 Still have to deal with the 52 humbrol, I don't think the opened ones are any good.

if its still soft it can be rescued with the humbrol enamel thinners. I use it for flocking glue

[johnyrotten]

Just now, stitchdup said:

if its still soft it can be rescued with the humbrol enamel thinners. I use it for flocking glue

I gave most a shake, still liquid inside. I did open one gold color the other day,it was very thick. It seemed to work, I was mixing up a tiny amount for a custom color, dried no problem. Is the humbrol thinner specific, and obviously no mixing in the tins, correct?

[stitchdup]

9 minutes ago, johnyrotten said:

I gave most a shake, still liquid inside. I did open one gold color the other day,it was very thick. It seemed to work, I was mixing up a tiny amount for a custom color, dried no problem. Is the humbrol thinner specific, and obviously no mixing in the tins, correct?

i just like to use the same brand thinners as the paint. I've got a lot of those little jars you get jam/preserves in at christmas i mix them in. The humbrol enamels last a long time too if the lids are tight.  some of the humbrol tins i had were from the 1970s and were still good. 

[johnyrotten]

1 minute ago, stitchdup said:

i just like to use the same brand thinners as the paint. I've got a lot of those little jars you get jam/preserves in at christmas i mix them in. The humbrol enamels last a long time too if the lids are tight.  some of the humbrol tins i had were from the 1970s and were still good. 

I agree with not mixing brands, less chance of an issue. I have no clue the age of these, free marketplace score. The woman I got them from said they were her father's, she was around my age(mid forties- fifties) and he had passed a few years ago. Most of these are military colors, and many are unopened. Almost everything from that find was usable. Tamiya, Model Master, Polyscale, some Revell tins and the Humbrol. Good to know these may be usable as well. Thanks.

[stitchdup]

4 minutes ago, johnyrotten said:

I agree with not mixing brands, less chance of an issue. I have no clue the age of these, free marketplace score. The woman I got them from said they were her father's, she was around my age(mid forties- fifties) and he had passed a few years ago. Most of these are military colors, and many are unopened. Almost everything from that find was usable. Tamiya, Model Master, Polyscale, some Revell tins and the Humbrol. Good to know these may be usable as well. Thanks.

i'd be wary of any matt colours, they tend to go off faster but satin and gloss should be good. The tin design is a good way to tell the age, if it has a blue and red band its mid 80s or older. be wary of any yellows with a blue and red band, they contain lead so chucking them is safer. 

[meechum68]

Good stuff! 

Those wheels look great!

[johnyrotten]

Got the chassis detailed and weathered. Going for an "actually driven" muscle car look.

[meechum68]

Looking good man! 

[OldNYJim]

Casual little curbside (trackside?) project I’ve been working on…wanted to learn some techniques that the armor guys use for weathering:

Three wheeled fibreglass oval racer from Europe…looks tiny next to a Vic!