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BE AWARE of Testors "one coat lacquer" now "extreme lacquer"


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Just used it this weekend for the 1st time. Have to say, possibly the nicest gloss coat i've done. Letting it harden to sand/polish next week.

 

Don

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For me there's a big difference in nozzles between Testors and Tamiya.  The spray pattern with Tamiya in my opinion is much finer and gentler.  I don't use rattle cans too much, but generally use Tamiya when I can.  I've used Testors Wet Look Clear and it never really gave any bad results.  Just seems to come out heavier.

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SDS for Testors Wet Look Clear, followed by the SDS for Extreme Lacquer Wet Look Clear.  Showing a definite change in formulation. 

 

 

 

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Edited by Dodge Driver
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  • 2 weeks later...

I too got the foamy clear problem on a hood. The base coat is long cured Testors enamel of which I have no more. Is there any thing that will chemically strip the clear lacquer without affecting the enamel base coat?

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22 minutes ago, Bills72sj said:

I too got the foamy clear problem on a hood. The base coat is long cured Testors enamel of which I have no more. Is there any thing that will chemically strip the clear lacquer without affecting the enamel base coat?

I don’t know of anything unless you can San and repair the hood.

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On 5/25/2020 at 5:06 PM, slusher said:

Roger, does Tamiya clear still have the cracking problem?

I've using Tamiya Clear fro about 2 years now & I've had no problems. I haven't sprayed it over decal though. I use Pledge restore after I'm done with everything.

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Is it just the clear that ya'll are having this foaming problem or colors? I just got a can of Testors Extreme Lacquer in Electric Pink for a Marty Robbins Daytona.

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This is an interesting problem.  I use to be in Aerospace (34 years) and one of my many functions was vehicle painting prep, priming and top coats.  I see that Methyl Isobutyl Ketone is the same family tree as Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which was banned from use 25 years ago because it was cancer causing and also displayed to wide a variance in results.  To flat, bubbling, and crinkling durning dry out processes.  I do not know if this is the problem, but it could be.  The two examples you show circled blue and red, which one came first, With or without Methyl Isobutyl Ketone. This is a big change in formula.

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24 minutes ago, MJO said:

This is an interesting problem.  I use to be in Aerospace (34 years) and one of my many functions was vehicle painting prep, priming and top coats.  I see that Methyl Isobutyl Ketone is the same family tree as Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which was banned from use 25 years ago because it was cancer causing and also displayed to wide a variance in results.  To flat, bubbling, and crinkling durning dry out processes.  I do not know if this is the problem, but it could be.  The two examples you show circled blue and red, which one came first, With or without Methyl Isobutyl Ketone. This is a big change in formula.

The first (oldest) product has the Methyl Isobutyl Ketone.  The current Extreme Lacquer has the MIBK removed. 

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This will effect the drying process and will be effected by the what is under it.  Some paints are not compatible with one another because of the content of the paint.  Once upon a time, there was only lacquers out there to use so compatibility was never an issue.  Welcome to the 21st century.

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  • 2 months later...
On 3/22/2021 at 8:41 AM, Mike Stem said:

Is it just the clear that ya'll are having this foaming problem or colors? I just got a can of Testors Extreme Lacquer in Electric Pink for a Marty Robbins Daytona.

Have the same question.  Picked up a couple cans of the Extreme Lacquer at Michael's today. They had about six cans of Root Beer and three cans of Inca Gold that still had the seal around the cap, a hodge-podge of other colors all had the seals broken and one can of clear felt quite light.  Used my 20% off coupon and the remnants of a gift card; total they cost me less than $2.00. So, as far as costs of paint I am not really too worried, but the idea of possibly messing up a build bothers me.  Another question, the label says "paint, primer, sealer, all in one can: Is that realistic or do I need to lay a primer coat before using this stuff? Or is there a possibility of the extra primer causing problems?  So many questions, inquisitive minds want to know.  Guess the answer is to give it a try and see what happens, on scrap of course.  When I get a chance to try it, I will report the results.

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