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1929 Ford Pickup 80's Contemporary Street Rod - A Tim Boyd Tribute!


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'29 Donor List Engine & Tranny

Revell '32 Ford Sedan
Kit 85-2062 Street Rod

1218646857_32Sedan.jpg.83a8162344d3ec15092c38bdf9bb87a0.jpg
Parts #:
407-408 Engine Halves (2) Flathead
439 Transmission Pan C4

1041884415_29PUC432b.jpg.15107e98a849a76054c5888c14dca05e.jpg

Revell '27 Touring
Kit 7144 Street Rod

2012139579_TTouring.jpg.dcb780e97b47e2402dbb31b4deafcce3.jpg
Parts #:
12 Bellhousing (BLUE)

Revell Dan Fink's '32 Ford Speedwagon
Kit 85-7606

1494263856_32Speedwagon.jpg.15f06a3882f13ba7ccf3376d00164d40.jpg
Parts #:
52-53 Engine Block Halves
55 Engine Oil Pan
65 Cylinder Head (2)
337191445_29PUC432Parts.jpg.8d70776983e36b66c85e7f1d9c84381a.jpg

Both the Revell '27 Touring Street Rod kit and the Revell '32 Ford Sedan Street Rod kit have C4 Transmissions:

720159510_29PUSBFC427vs32.jpg.c47a4d77065ee9c5545594ecf32be622.jpg

Between the two, the C4 behind the Flathead block and Bell Housing will be mated via the '27 Bell Housing to the Deuce Small Block Ford.

2035443724_29PUSBFC427.jpg.f1ea431a10735a1605fc1fb6510f56be.jpg

Here are the engines and transmissions marked for cutting:

1237809326_29PUSBFC432vs32c.jpg.a575ef05bdbd19cdad6a4a7d70ff10af.jpg

450832073_29PUSBFC432vs32CutLinesC4a.jpg.3b5550f89ef74ed3e5b6005898a8322d.jpg

Here we "Take" the line...

855833000_29PUSBFC432vs32CutLinesC4c.jpg.a623ec657f36cf114977cf96e1866b98.jpg

rotating, instead of just cutting straight through.

1406184100_29PUSBFC432vs32CutLinesC4d.jpg.5553b15752dacfe9dbfe0c9a533bd1aa.jpg

1548025091_29PUSBFC427BH32C4b.jpg.f9ed24ee24d39c4c69e2bfcb4415617d.jpg

To align the C4 and the Bell Housing a pattern of the Bell Housing opening is traced on a scrap piece of flat stock.

1053070948_29PUSBFC427BH32C4f.jpg.a44efadeadd7e53a00f0294b6db4a71c.jpg

Trim it down "Leaving" the line...

1536853395_29PUSBFC427BH32C4h.jpg.d3e5db60542f6d60ad9aa8386fa23abf.jpg

File it...

852832468_29PUSBFC427BH32C4j.jpg.e9e0fa65157cfd38fe29511958eb2da9.jpg

until it fits in the Bell Housing opening.

1039325492_29PUSBFC427BH32C4m.jpg.9cec9f7e25f2bfddd84944e9a5f6be63.jpg

Locate the center; a short piece of rod will pin the guide to the transmission.

1225998694_29PUSBFC427BH32C4n.jpg.8737e2464a33b7d3fb344d1a1ac093d5.jpg

149616274_29PUSBFC427BH32C4o.jpg.0398bfdf6416a7dba12ee91f5b541c76.jpg91186078_29PUSBFC427BH32C4q.jpg.239849b19894756f138e54de277d8d4b.jpg

2086774603_29PUSBFC427BH32C4r.jpg.cc5d1634786f2d32b6b60956d870f0ef.jpg

3241567_29PUSBFC427BH32C4u.jpg.21c1de6073ee7530debc75e5d5e14357.jpg

Ready for a drop of CA...

1239428892_29PUSBFC427BH32C4w.jpg.d4a27db3a7ac5c6a072783cc4ad2e651.jpg

Test fit looks good!

945131492_29PUSBFC427BH32C4z2.jpg.dcf4ccf33075c5dd1587f4016193570d.jpg

Add a drop of CA to set the guide and transmission together:

1075407091_29PUSBFC427BH32C4z7.jpg.d127fe230a9ae420c1d6858fc60df86b.jpg

And, on to relieving the SBF from it's kit transmission...

1497194813_29PUSBFC432SB27BH32C4a.jpg.171526f5b21e48695a0a924f6e910004.jpg

File the back of the block and prepare to drill the pilot hole...

483678635_29PUSBFC432SB27BH32C4d.jpg.f88b253c3eb593c530df42340cca85c2.jpg

2130821195_29PUSBFC432SB27BH32C4h.jpg.367b018c28193d33beba29c2c1f70b4b.jpg

1500650128_29PUSBFC432SB27BH32C4i.jpg.27da94315f6932f7765b81b01f84a1c9.jpg

Test fit mates the '27 Bell Housing and the Deuce Small Block Ford Engine together.

1210351674_29PUSBFC432SB27BH32C4m.jpg.cb7eddb34bc9ab74fc0e4be79b82fef3.jpg

Add the C4 from the Sedan kit

1583378464_29PUSBFC432SB27BH32C4p.jpg.9895b3771b325abbc01c0b6eeb303d01.jpg

There is the '80s/'90s Ford in a Ford powerplant for our Tribute build. -KK

Edited by Kit Karson
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Alright, I've been waiting to see something up here from someone other than me.

I got a text from my good friend John asking for an update on the Tribute builds.

I told him that I had made a bunch of progress on my build and @Rocking Rodney Rat had thrown some paint on his build and @Dennis Lacy had some primer on his build.

I mentioned that I really didn't want to hi-jack ADL's thread and I'd rather wait until they added something on their builds.

So here the question: You want to see a picture of where my build is right now, instead of the step-by-step updates on how I got here? -KK

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Kit, I am thoroughly enjoying your progress on your pickup.  The clear and detailed explanations of your steps are a pleasure to read - and I have spent my working life as a teacher for 31 years and a trainer now for nearly nine years so I know good instructions when I see them! I am thinking that maybe putting the roadster floor above the cab floor will also help with mounting later because of the raised floor layout in the Revell roadster/coupe kits.

However, there are some little voices in my head that are screaming at the top of their voices so, knowing that you really care about the details on your rods, I hope I can respectfully share these concerns with you.

It's the firewall.  I said it somewhere else once but I am 99.9% confident that no-one in the history of hot rodding ever tried to graft a 30/31 firewall into a 28/29. It just looks odd.  However, Revell did so now it has almost become the norm in our 1/25th scale world. On the other hand, the firewall is a great fit in your body and against your floor and has that nicely sculpted recess for the engine.  

Sooo, what about if you were to file the 30/31 swages off the firewall, losing some of the identifying features and in turn producing a smooth, slick firewall as would have been the trend in the eighties?

On the other hand, if you love the look of that firewall in the early cab, then I will keep my thoughts to myself and continue to enjoy the awesome work I am seeing here.  I would love to join in this venture and went as far as digging out the parts a few weeks ago but I have a ridiculous number of projects on the go already and have decided to sit this one out.

Cheers

Alan

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12 hours ago, stinkybritches said:

100% agree

 

13 hours ago, Bullybeef said:

@Kit Karson your step by step write ups are awesome, and I can understand your dilemma of not wanting to hijack.

We the audience can be patient while waiting for the op to either show some progress or allow the hijack 😜

 

12 hours ago, Dennis Lacy said:

@Kit Karson

Just post the step by step! I made you guys equal partners in this thread. 
 

Plus, it’s gonna be a minute before I have more to share so breathe some life into this thing!

Thanks, guys! I'll get on with it!! -KK

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11 hours ago, Rocking Rodney Rat said:

I haven't been doing too much on my pickup lately. Putting in windshield tonight. Final assembly always drags for me....I did get the SBF powerplant going...a lot of BLING!!!! -RRR

 

 

 

avvdb.jpg

lbbuyvg.jpg

Won't be able to hide this under a hood! Shinny distraction draws the eye to the chrome backed by an ample amount of Oval Blue!! Excellent presentation, Brother!!!  -KK

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7 hours ago, alan barton said:

Kit, I am thoroughly enjoying your progress on your pickup.  The clear and detailed explanations of your steps are a pleasure to read - and I have spent my working life as a teacher for 31 years and a trainer now for nearly nine years so I know good instructions when I see them! I am thinking that maybe putting the roadster floor above the cab floor will also help with mounting later because of the raised floor layout in the Revell roadster/coupe kits.

However, there are some little voices in my head that are screaming at the top of their voices so, knowing that you really care about the details on your rods, I hope I can respectfully share these concerns with you.

It's the firewall.  I said it somewhere else once but I am 99.9% confident that no-one in the history of hot rodding ever tried to graft a 30/31 firewall into a 28/29. It just looks odd.  However, Revell did so now it has almost become the norm in our 1/25th scale world. On the other hand, the firewall is a great fit in your body and against your floor and has that nicely sculpted recess for the engine.  

Sooo, what about if you were to file the 30/31 swages off the firewall, losing some of the identifying features and in turn producing a smooth, slick firewall as would have been the trend in the eighties?

On the other hand, if you love the look of that firewall in the early cab, then I will keep my thoughts to myself and continue to enjoy the awesome work I am seeing here.  I would love to join in this venture and went as far as digging out the parts a few weeks ago but I have a ridiculous number of projects on the go already and have decided to sit this one out.

Cheers

Alan

@alan barton

Say WHAT!?. 

Brother, I'm right there with you! In keeping with identifying the Revell parts being used in this build, (although I found a pair of Monogram parts, yesterday... that might be added later) modifying many of them will come later while doing the body work, e.g. Filling in the hinges on the body, doors & box and tailgate. Not wanting to miss the opportunity to polish this '29A Closed Cab Pickup into an '80s/'90s style hot rod as this build progresses, has left several pieces in their original box stock condition during the initial steps they are presented.

Sooo, to that end... smoothing the swag out of the ol' '30/'31 Ford firewall is already on my story board.

@alan barton, I'm sure that @tim boyd, @Dennis Lacy & @Rocking Rodney Rat wouldn't mind seeing the parts you pulled together!  I know I would!!

Thanks, for following along! This is what sharing this hobby is all about!! -KK

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There's going to be a little cross-pollination going on in the next step of mating the cross-bread engine and transmission to the '29 Roadster frame.  There are a couple of ways to attack this and staying with retaining as much of the box stock assembly, locating the '29 Roadster 140 Cross Member in the notched locator slots in the '29 Roadster frame, is where we'll start.

543998530_29Roadster140CrossMemberFramea1.jpg.7fc68ee0e148c7a092a1b4b796ec7b19.jpg

With a little dab of white glue... placed the cross member inside of the frame rails.

1640440935_29Roadster140CrossMemberFramed.jpg.382c94f4e5d155cbced8fe3d4f0b10e1.jpg

Sizing up the location of the engine & transmission relative to the '29 Roadster frame... (Note: the original '29 Roadster motor mounts have been removed, earlier)

1728754644_29Roadster140CrossMemberFrameg.jpg.7391d0bc352e95e38c23bdb2fe402001.jpg

Because the block and oil pan came from the Revell Deuce kit, Deuce motor mounts will be transferred to our Model A hot rod frame!

1672048582_29Roadster140CrossMemberFramei.jpg.31bd0aa5b7652a617459f223034c13e8.jpg

Here's the Deuce oil pan mounted the the box stock mounts. (If you go back in this thread, you'll see @Rocking Rodney Rat scratched built his motor mounts.)

Setting the engine and transmission into the box stock donor frame shows us where the engine will need to be placed into the Model A hot rod frame.

2040629975_29Roadster140CrossMemberFramej.jpg.6f0f1d34e24827e49991904b34fac9b7.jpg

Setting the hot rod frame on top of the Deuce frame, gives us an overhead view of where the engine will be placed.

1396249149_29Roadster140CrossMemberFramen.jpg.286e3c711b482225e35165540d5b0897.jpg

A quick measure of the frame widths, shows that the Deuce motor mounts will crossover to the hot rod frame...

1532213011_32FrameEngineMounts29RoadsterFrame.jpg.a897aad7bb02f80590037aa6855355f3.jpg

'29 Roadster frame

1938572156_32FrameEngineMountsb.jpg.a761897bde85c390bcc52b1eb47dc8cd.jpg

Deuce frame

1720383494_32FrameEngineMountsd.jpg.9f95fecc356611c096a258692c1dc91a.jpg

One more look at where the engine needs to set relative to the frame & firewall...

 Now, the distance that the Deuce motor mounts need to be placed bac from the front cross member.

215383757_32FrameEngineMountse.jpg.4f47b3b1997935f7616d771fb8703f6e.jpg

Here is where we need to establish a guide for placing the Deuce motor mounts in the right place within the hot rod rails.

1936370317_32FrameEngineMountsf.jpg.f5390051718d4567c1f9470701380c71.jpg

A piece of half-round rod is temporally glued across the bottom of the rails at the center point of the Deuce engine mounts.

1381674959_32FrameEngineMountsh.jpg.dbb5070aeefda7f1066483942a511ad1.jpg

Again, eye-balling the location of the main parts, once again...

2129583619_32FrameEngineMountsi.jpg.9db763f9a923c9ce3d9c077b7e03c0a6.jpg

Flipping over the frame...

980890940_32FrameEngineMountsj.jpg.3eeadfcfaa3cebd7e86905d7a4551966.jpg

...and, placing the engine & transmission on the temporary cross-bar...

784537516_32FrameEngineMountsk.jpg.fcd6f83b49d891e8b6a81894843a9845.jpg

we can see where the tranny mount will need to be relative to the engine mounts.

982217588_32FrameEngineMountsl.jpg.90b7f3380f3835cb96293d63b33d8a6a.jpg

The engine & transmission sit right where they ought to be...

 

2073361505_32FrameEngineMountsm.jpg.483d9b4ed1384a5db6b920d6acb6876c.jpg

Looks like the firewall will fit, sorta!

411940233_32FrameEngineMountsn.jpg.d2d366aa13a928f1065b1899b7496811.jpg

768567366_32FrameEngineMountsq.jpg.dcf60914fbfed05b20e4ae23848073e9.jpg

But, there's a lot more to be done to make this all come together! -KK

1114375925_32FrameEngineMountsr.jpg.d6ca1d27ab44bf3d5387e8212b2a2074.jpg

'29 Roadster 140 Cross Member & Frame a2.jpg

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Here's the next step: the Deuce motor mounts need to be grafted into the '29 Roadster frame...

WP_20210206_164.jpg.a9c2b920ac9cc6989ef9cd87f93451ef.jpg

Lining up the engine and transmission over the guide bar...

WP_20210207_002.jpg.50da67e149ae9e65362faefd66d12e8a.jpg

With the fenders are mounted the powerplant sits about right!

WP_20210207_003.jpg.589652f4d136687d52b52283b14be4ef.jpg

A closer look at the tranny mount on the bottom of the transmission tail shaft shows a space between the crossmember mount and the tranny mount.

WP_20210207_005.jpg.e0c7a22c6f8a165829bce186309b1cd3.jpg

We'll come back and make an adapter to cover the gap.

WP_20210207_006.jpg.90a7ed5dc6e6392dd6184e42e80bda3e.jpg

The deuce motor mounting tabs located on the pan sides line up with the guide bar!

WP_20210207_007.jpg.44d6cbe0f7473ab560dc557a3d3b7cdf.jpg

Checking the fit with the cab...WP_20210207_008.jpg.778d10d6b0fbf0f088e9bf9f9ac6c9e9.jpg

everything looks like the it fits...

WP_20210207_009.jpg.facb8e864e7510be4bdfddcd93bb634c.jpg

Now it's time to collect the Deuce motor mounts and get them attached to the Model A Frame.

 WP_20210207_010.jpg.a9e0c3c63ac5eaa0bd78cb9652a7e513.jpg

Make the cut lines...

WP_20210207_011.jpg.b3443be1167445cc5ff2a4c0ea337f4c.jpg

All four sides...

WP_20210207_012.jpg.b3707fc580a9def6db01aa5c18826f89.jpg

And, Left & Right

WP_20210207_013.jpg.33c9d2ffb6fc5ed7093178e0ec0b957a.jpg

Laying Deuce frame on top of the Model A frame to see how the mounts line up with the guide bar...

WP_20210207_015.jpg.d30ed9cee4b6aeb36f0e2d04c2b8bceb.jpg

Looks like the Deuce motor mount will work...WP_20210207_016.jpg.d0a12da8045bb0d1ef89e57f3438fc66.jpg

Cutting the Deuce motor mounts from the donor frame is pretty straight forward...

WP_20210207_018.jpg.0e13437a913b8ae97fddd6c87d3e60c2.jpg

First one side...

WP_20210207_020.jpg.99e365f085d054143c5aec9fcdec8c26.jpg

And, then the other...

WP_20210207_022.jpg.9ce636f3a14f8ab7d5f76c9e4bb4390a.jpg

Here we are taking the line with the cut.

WP_20210207_025.jpg.1f090ead2c68d159ce03830c9d0e149b.jpg

Pushing the file over the edges to clean off the flash left behind from the saw blade.  Pushing not dragging the file is important... the cutting groves/teeth on the file run one way. Push and lift to return to cut/file again, one cut at a time, checking your progress often.  Using a file can remove an awful lot of material very carefully.

WP_20210207_026.jpg.92613d36594df7aa20eb1eaac7632802.jpg

Lining up the Deuce motor mount next to the Model A frame...

 

WP_20210207_027.jpg.720c41b7e2312ec9f7d399a5f74bb6e8.jpg

White glue allows setting the Deuce motor mount onto the Model A rails while lining each of them up with the guide bar.

WP_20210207_030.jpg.36c26a7b3afa079825e6294aa3543a9d.jpg

WP_20210207_033.jpg.e18af85fa1b7776f87b06f92aa4a5edb.jpg

Noting the placement above the guide bar...

WP_20210207_036.jpg.d62c03f5a98102a776c9bcb46bce56fc.jpg

Both directions, make sure that they are ready to set with a couple of drops of CA glue.

WP_20210207_038.jpg.1fe4b376ec39ddc375aef9bb39cb335a.jpg

Next up, we'll get back to make an adapter to cover the gap between the crossmember and the transmission mount on the bottom of the tail shaft. -KK

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Need a Part? Mark a Part! When we left off... we needed to to make an adapter to cover the gap between the crossmember and the transmission mount on the bottom of the tail shaft.

Here we're going to use a piece of sprue to make the adapter.

WP_20210207_041.jpg.8e05f0ccece88290a8dbed7c6e6e38d6.jpg

The adapter will attach to the pin in the center of the Roadster crossmember...

WP_20210207_040.jpg.c9fae06c3b2b9045c3a0fef3778b02cb.jpg

Just a couple of measurements: width

WP_20210207_044.jpg.d928553b4cb91130089464feebcfa24f.jpg

And, length...

WP_20210207_045.jpg.7875c64a78bdb75835d4bfd81a0e7488.jpg

Transfer the measurements to the piece of sprue...

WP_20210207_047.jpg.69bc404e753baf0e2e984a0e7a49c9cb.jpg

WP_20210207_050.jpg.8ca5d51e31b0f5d7d38e381d51f48346.jpg

Black out the pattern on the bottom side...

WP_20210207_051.jpg.b5918cdffad0903139ed74e752bc338f.jpg

And, also on the top side...

WP_20210207_053.jpg.4a4992a78a8b9036c7d941286fab5c07.jpg

Drill the mounting hole that will place the adapter on the pin in the center of the Roadster crossmember.

WP_20210207_053.jpg.4a4992a78a8b9036c7d941286fab5c07.jpg

WP_20210207_057.jpg.caa407d045a6917ab064b8331b8216fa.jpg

Using a flat file, the adapter will take shape...

WP_20210207_058.jpg.8a24bacc7365fa9757bd298a7d39d2b1.jpg

Remember, push your file across the surface to be removed, shave a little with each pass.

WP_20210207_059.jpg.e8fb52bfebab094d8b27d8dab2172e0c.jpg Checking your progress often... here we are taking the line.

WP_20210207_061.jpg.e8798c3f92d38bb7b9ec1ccfd7095506.jpg

Flipping the part over and shaping the underside...

WP_20210207_063.jpg.9afff1b69bdfbbac7ceba8435cf2cbba.jpg

WP_20210207_066.jpg.8091a219fecdf0d5a98c8234362e9cb2.jpg

As the adapter starts to take shape, blacked out areas start disappearing.

WP_20210207_069.jpg.30a5c0477bc2f3789b527a2003d4ae7a.jpg

Almost flat on the bottom...

WP_20210207_070.jpg.d2a832fbeed579a659cec57ae7e62f12.jpg

Laying the file on the work bench and pushing the bottom of the adapter across the cutting teeth assures a flat even  surface...

WP_20210207_072.jpg.a814faed772cc1f8b50e171e828a13b6.jpg

Continue shaping the adapter from the top side...

WP_20210207_075.jpg.ce1ece091ed9b8d8a2da25aeb775bfc7.jpg

Just a quick look back, here are the tools we used to create the adapter from a scrap piece of sprue.

WP_20210207_076.jpg.0f1f2685b2eaebc7bfb4c30ab623c1a7.jpg

Fitting the adapter to the pin on the Roadster crossmember...

WP_20210207_084.jpg.530dfa81971484f65237ab392faecae1.jpg

A closer look from both the top side...

WP_20210207_086.jpg.a224e95e9a5bcf31a486988226365371.jpg

WP_20210207_087.jpg.4d82e03ee0258e4b25df1d6a4c7a6ce1.jpg

And, the bottom side...

WP_20210207_089.jpg.9662887f378ade1ee418ef2019d117fc.jpg

WP_20210207_090.jpg.a3bbdb974bbc971472c4bb7055506291.jpg

It's time to remove the Deuce motor mount guide...

WP_20210207_091.jpg.6f54183d6b45e637d886d7ede5a73e88.jpg

Just pop it off with a #11 blade.

WP_20210207_092.jpg.fdaa302f41aa5aa92a0bfd759bcbba81.jpg

Time to drop the engine and transmission into place...

WP_20210207_100.jpg.600f76e48bb05ad03d27b3ed06c967a6.jpg

Notice how the the pad on the bottom of the tail shaft rests on the adapter?

WP_20210207_101.jpg.0ce2bda6fbabb99dc9ac43efc359ff47.jpg

Time to mock it up with the fenders...

WP_20210207_102.jpg.dc93438a0eef0522e43f072d03641746.jpg

And, the engine and transmission...

WP_20210207_103.jpg.a41bf2d9650757433606120e641b5d7d.jpg

Check clearance above the chassis and fenders...

WP_20210207_105.jpg.f783a7cd75e2094f75cfc9155a55b8d7.jpg

And, in front of the engine relative to the front crossmember...

WP_20210207_106.jpg.0e5423df19e96d91a1a9c363b350198d.jpg

Now, check out the firewall clearance...

WP_20210207_107.jpg.3d46d8eecd85b4b43b44c898955cdd0b.jpg

Looks good!

WP_20210207_108.jpg.bb44b98d4949d46115fb0a5e4b352a10.jpg

Even the most insignificant part/step in the construction process lays the foundation for future assembly of the project build.  Proper use of even the most basic tools helps assure that the end result is in accordance with the planed path towards the final product end.  Here's a little tip: Plan your work and work your plan. -KK

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Awesome work by all on this, @Dennis Lacy, I look forward to your next update.

@Rocking Rodney Rat, love the detail on the engine.

@Kit Karson, your step by step guide is very appreciated as it not only outlines good building/customization, the reference to the kit source is very helpful to others.

@tim boyd your work stands as a great resource and inspiration. 
I’ll be living through this thread vicariously over the next little while as all my work is on hold due to a move here in the next week. 

AD06978C-6AFF-48F2-9076-E42672D60287.jpeg

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OK guys....I think I mentioned this earlier in the thread, but back in the day (1979 to 1983, to be precise) I was building a replica of Jim Jacob's
"Pete and Jakes" Closed Cab Pickup.  I covered the basic steps, including modifying the roof with a visor, adding the smaller rear window, revising the hood and side panels, and painting in my Street Rodder magazine "Modeler's Corner" column in the June, 1983 issue.   

Now moving to the present, during my recent hiatus from writing model car magazine stories, I've been digging out some old, partially completed projects and assessing what would be required to finish them (one dates all the way back to - yep - 1969).  One of those is that same Jim Jacobs pickup project.  Over the years, the real truck has remained remarkably true to its 1978 configuration, as documented in a color story in Street Rodder late that year and in many magazine and event appearances over the ensuing four decades, indeed it was photographed just earlier this year and showed up in the GoodGuys Gazette looking as good as ever.  

Here are the photos I took today of the project, completed with its 1982 (just after painting) masking tape still in place. 

I'm not committing to finishing it this year, but with inspiration from all the terrific new building activity being shown by the contributors to this thread started by Dennis, one never knows....

Anyway, enjoy the pix...TIM 

DSC 0154

DSC 0148

DSC 0149

DSC 0150

DSC 0151

DSC 0153

Edited by tim boyd
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@Bullybeef @tim boyd @Plowboy @Rocking Rodney Rat @Kit Karson @CabDriver @alan barton @Bernard Kron

Wait no further, here's a huge update!

I know my own progress has been lagging a bit but for good reason. I've been focused on getting this thing painted over the last 5 days. The week prior the weather was a bit cooler and wetter than I felt comfortable with so I had to wait for some Sun and 70's this week. 

Everyone knows what primer looks like so I won't bore you with that. I will say that before primer I prepped the body parts by wet-sanding with 600g, sprayed Tamiya fine gray primer, wet-sanded that with 1500g, and another thin coat of fine gray just to make sure there was no bare plastic showing anywhere. No sanding, paint, decals, clear.

On day 1 the first order of business was extensive masking of the fenders and inside of the cab to keep the Tamiya Purple (mostly) where it belonged. Not shown are the doors and front shell.

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On Day 2 more extensive masking up the now purple bed support structure and spraying the rest of the fender unit Tamiya Black.

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Pulling the masking tape off of the bed support structure resulted in this:

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On Day 3 it was decals which I allowed to set up over night and on Day 4 it was time to seal everything in with Tamiya Clear. Finally all of the tape was pulled out of the cab protecting the gray interior finish.

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I couldn't wait to bring everything home for a mock up on the bench. This should give you all a very clear vision of where this thing is headed! Won't be much more to post as I wait a few weeks for the paint to fully gas-out so that it's safe to polish and wax. Then final assembly will commence. In the meantime I do still need to mask the top sides of the fenders, cab and bed so that I can spray the undersides flat black. I also have a touch more to do on interior detail painting then I'll show that group of parts. Let me know what you all think!

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