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1907 Rolls Royce Silver Ghost, 1/24 Finecast metal kit


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Got started on the body.

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I glued the back to the sides first in a U-shape. The mating faces are very well-shaped, once you clean off the moulding pips and small amount of flash. The fit is such that when it's flush, the joint is at 90 degrees. After that had set (I used gel super glue) I put in the front floor. It you're doing one of these yourself, note that the floors sit on top of the moulded ridges on the sides. This is not clear from the instructions OR photos. Then I dropped in the front and rear seat fronts, which slide firmly but easily into the slots in the sides.

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The central seat back and divider are an equally good fit.

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The idea is to use the body as a jig to assemble the seat upholstery and cushions, gluing it all together, and then remove the complete seat benches to paint separately from the body. Hmmmm...

best,

M.

 

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With all that metal (body. seats), your model's weight will probably be to scale with the 1:1 vehicle!  compared to plastic kits, that model must be really heavy!

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On 1/15/2021 at 2:43 AM, absmiami said:

That’s a relief !

not ... daft ...

I wonder if Rolls changed the susp arrangement depending upon the chassis length ordered by the customer ?  

From what I've been able to find out, they changed the rear suspension in 1912.  I know that added more leaves to the springs on the armoured car chassis.

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I’ll post more photos of the chassis if anyone is interested. But I don’t want to confuse mr bacon’s very nice build thread. Maybe on a separate thread ..

.  I’m tempted to buy the kit and do the mods for the later chassis but I need another build thread - like not ...

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I'll have to weigh the pieces an see how heavy it will be! I have got some 1/2" clear perspex rod, which I've been working on shaping the top to fit the curved undertray on the chassis, which will carry the weight when the car is done. Just have to figure out how tall the cradle needs to be!

bare-seats.jpg

Amazingly, the seat building method turned out to be OK. I fixed the base cushions to the ledge along the bottom of the back cushion out of the car, then put the sides into the car and dropped the "bench" between them, wiggled everything into place and ran some thin superglue down the seams, using microballoons to fill bigger gaps at the corners.Once verything had set up, I took them out of the car again, and applied epoxy to the joints from behind and below for strength.

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These are just resting in place.... I need to get them out a few more times yet!

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Mockup with a view to seeing how the bonnet fits (I really need to build it so that I can paint it at the same time as the body)

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Couldn't resist trying a mockup with all the parts to date! I didn't like the look of the seats so I've done a bit more work on them:

seats-finished.jpg

Onward!

best,

M.

 

 

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Thanks, guys... slow and steady progress, and finally all the bits that will be painted body colour are cleaned up and primered.

body-parts-1.jpg

body-parts-2.jpg

Tomorrow is probably paint shop day!

best,

M.

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Silver is on.... I'm using a custom mix by Zero Paints of Mercedes Diamond Silver but made with mica pearl flake instead of metal flake, so you can't see the grain at all...

silver-parts-1.jpg

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There is a difference from the primer, honest...

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And the radiator is done: Tamiya Italian Red Lacquer paint on the RR badge, taken off with thinner after it dried; AA badge painted with gold enamel, followed by Tamiya Acrylic, wiped off later with a cotton swab moistened with X-20A thinner

best,

M.

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Thanks, Geoff!

Zero 2K clear is on now.

body-mockup-2.jpg

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It's all just dropped into place here, but the fit seems pretty good... I couldn't resist a bit more comprehensive test assembly!

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The rear wheels don't go fully on to the axles at the moment, so they are too wide-tracked. I didn't want to force them at this juncture, and will ease the mounting holes with a file when we get to permanent fitting stage. I'm sure there are folk who will think the body is too shiny for period, but since the whole thing is silver I want a range of finishes and textures... and the real thing is incredibly well looked after!

The bright green in the body is some Post-It paper being used as low tack masks for the seat base boards, which are mahogany. I'm off now to finish graining them!

best,

M.

 

 

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This is now the official end of "Stage 4: the Bodywork"

body-complete-1.jpg

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A first test to see if the driver is going to fit. His passenger is also under way, but her lower half is rather more complicated! Next "Stage 5: The Scuttle", which is the dashboard by another name.

best,

M.

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You know, back in those days they didn't use paint with  a clear coat!

Just bustin' your cookies Mat - the Rolls looks great! ;)  The general appearance and the level of detail makes it look larger than 1:24 scale. More like a 1:18 or 1:16.

So there are figures included? That explains the "rump depression" in the seat cushion I noticed earlier.

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Thanks, both! @peteski the figures are not included; they are the ICM “American Motorists 1910” designed for their Model T kit. I decided to upgrade their wheels from the most popular car in the world to “the best car in the world” 😜 I think one of the reasons it looks larger scale is that the white metal can be cast with details of an extraordinary level of finesse. Bolts and fittings and lettering that you’d have to add with scratch building to a plastic kit are all there out of the box, and parts that would have to be after market resin in an aircraft kit are all moulded on one piece components. It really is a gem of the master maker’s art...

best,

M.

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Thanks, chaps... the scuttle/dashboard is now done:

scuttle-1.jpg

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scuttle-3.jpg

The big "mahogany" box contains the coil, so it can be accessed from the cockpit (I assume as part of the starting sequence, perhaps because of the dual coil and magneto firing circuits). The dials are provided as printed paper, but carefully cut out and with painted on "glass" from Citadel "''ardcoat" varnish they look OK. That is how the speedo/rev counter should fit, but my word was it hard to figure out: the isometric view on the instructions is at just the wrong angle; the photos are unhelpful (most of the time the mounting is hidden behind the spare tyre); and for a famous car it's surprisingly hard to find a clear walkaround image of the inside or "driver's eye" view. Eventually I found a video from Goodwood Revival which gave me a glimpse. By 1909 models, the cluster was back inside, in front of the steering wheel.

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People progressing. The ICM figures are well sculpted, but the fit leaves a bit to be desired. I've found over the yeas that the best way to fit them together is to take your time, and join the critical, well fitting pieces, then let them set. You can then close up the remaining gaps by flexing the rather "soapy" plastic. The lady's jacket back is solidly located on the rear part of her skirt, and her front fits solidly to the top of the skirt front, so tomorrow I'll get her shoulders to meet up with the aid of a large clamp!

best,

M.

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