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the engine is just about complete.  A light grimy black wash darkened it up a bit which is more like the actual color.  Wiring of distributor is complete to plugs.  Fuel line is done to the carb from the fuel pump and the fan belt is in place.  The steering gear was finished up tonite and just needs some paint to finish it off.

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Some additional photos of the progress made since the last post.  I found some blue rattle can paint that looks pretty close to the color used on the actual rig so I painted up the front wheels and trimmed the edges in silver.  The center hub will be done with Molotow chrome but not until a lot more is finished so that they don't get marred in the process.  The hood now stays open with the rod made of brass tubing pieces.  It slides on the rod that connects between the radiator and the firewall.

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Now I can close the hood without it binding.  Two T handles will secure the hood down in the front.

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More work completed in the last couple of days.  The doors for the cab have brass hinges for opening.  I use Micro-Mark's "H" hinges, the smallest they have.  The door and door jamb are notched just enough to accept the hinge.  CA is used to set the hinge location and then small nails are used to permanently attach them.  The nail heads are ground down so that the hinge closes without binding.  Instead of using the pins that come with the hinges I use a section of stainless steel wire that is very stiff.  That helps to keep the hinges in alignment so they will open and close without binding.  

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Once the hinges are in place the doors are reshaped using strips of plastic stock.  Scribing the resin casting results in openings that are too wide and the plastic helps to close them up some.  A bit of space has to be left for paint.  It's surprising how much thickness a coat of paint can have that will mess up the door closing.

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The entire door perimeter doesn't need shimming.  Only those parts that are really wide open.  The final fit will show where those places are.

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Door is in place and the edges are trimmed for a good fit.  During the process of working with this door I broke off the door handle and then inadvertently swept it into the waste basket with all of the other scrap.  A new door handle was cut from a piece of brass strip stock and installed in its place.

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Great detail work on an already great cab!  Thanks for creating this cab for us to purchase from AITM. Got me thinking of a dual drive mixer  for a future build.  The 331 Gold comet should provide enough power  to do the job.

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Here's an update on progress.  The body basics are done with the exception of cleaning up a couple of areas.  The interior will be next and then the compartment doors will be cut open. 

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The body is made of 0.030 sheet stock with round tubing corners.  The tubing was quartered and glued to the side, front and top panels.  The small corners were filled in with plastic and putty.  

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Putty was used to clean up some of the seams but for the most part only light sanding was needed.

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Top rear edges of the canopy still need some cleanup and then I'll put in a piece of sheet stock inside.  There are ribs for stiffeners inside the top but another layer of sheet material will stiffen it even more.  Lots to do on the interior of the body, build the compartments and cover up the wheel wells.

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On 2/9/2021 at 9:37 PM, Chariots of Fire said:

Thanks, Casey.  From what you recall does the rig have anything else besides the spotlights and the long side seats that are visible?  I've not been able to come up with a good view of inside the open body.

Sorry, I can't recall too much cause it's been some time since I saw it. But, a quick image search on google turned up some images from when the truck was sold at Mecum Kissimmee in 2010 (no wonder I can't remember what the rear looks like!) but it also reminded me that the real truck had been repowered with a Big Block Chevy and likely matching automatic transmission.

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Thanks, Casey.  I saw the photos with the engine change.  No where near like it was when new.  I'll figure something out.  I have a gas engine/generator made up for the front of the body.  The lettering on the sides suggest that there was one.  So I'll open up the compartment doors to show the generator in place.

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Rear of the body has been built up using some treadplate and sheet stock.  It's amazing how much more rigid the body sides are now with the added pieces glued in place.  In addition I'm going to use a bit of artistic license and install this generator/engine combination just behind the cab.  The real truck has the compartment doors lettered "Power Supply" and "Emergency" so I think it will fit.

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This is just moving right along. Love the hinges and support rod for the hood. I've never seen one of these in real life, and assumed they had butterfly hoods like many trucks of that era.

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With the body work basics complete work on the compartment doors commenced with the cutting open of the rear ones.  While the real truck has piano hinges but there is an alternative to a piano hinge.  (Wish they were still available but they are not).  

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The rear door has been fitted with a small section of brass tubing on the left side.  It was glued to the door with CA.  After the tubing was set additional CA was put along the seam on both sides and then wiped clear.  The surface was given a light sanding.  This fills in the very small area between the tubing the the flat surface of the door.  Notches were made in the body, both top and bottom and similar small sections of tubing were glued in place.  A piece of stainless wire is run up through the bottom piece, through the tubing on the door and into the upper small tubing section in the body.  The door swings easily without binding.  On the right of the door is a chrome slam lock from Don Mills Hobbies.  A rectangular opening is made in the door for the back of the lock.

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Now the door opens.  In the foreground is a piece of the stainless wire that is used to pin the hinge pieces together.  It's small stuff but it works.  Once painting is done and final fitting of the doors is complete the pin is installed and given a small drop of CA to secure it so it won't fall out.  Note the putty at the top of the door.  That is where the small piece of tubing is.  When all is sanded smooth the tubing will not show, and will be locked in with CA and putty.  Now on to the rest of them!

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This is coming along very nicely and such a high quality, creative build.  Charles, could you tell me where you source your stainless wire and brass tubing?

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It comes from a guy locally who had a booth in a local flee market.  But he does sell from home as well.  His e-mail is psme@psmescale.com.  The PSME stands for "Precision Scale Model Engineering".  He also has a website.    www.psmescale.com.  Tubing is 0.80mm diameter and the stainless wire is 0.18mm and just fits inside.

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2 minutes ago, Chariots of Fire said:

It comes from a guy locally who had a booth in a local flee market.  But he does sell from home as well.  His e-mail is psme@psmescale.com.  The PSME stands for "Precision Scale Model Engineering".  He also has a website.    www.psmescale.com.  Tubing is 0.80mm diameter and the stainless wire is 0.18mm and just fits inside.

Thank you!  I will check that out.

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