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Simulated metal paint


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I was sitting here thinking about options other than what I have been using for painting transmissions, driveshafts, exhaust pipes, aluminum intake manifolds, etc. I'm referring to bare metal but here's the twist,  I prefer to brush paint these items.  Just so many times, bare metal finishes just don't look accurate.

I'm really interested in the "experts" feedback.

 

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*** I am not an Expert***

That is going to be hard, anything meant to replicate a metal finish is going to be metallic, brushing metallic paint rarely gives great results if the surface is very big. 

If the surface is right, you could use bare metal foil. I have used that or air conditioning style tape (Aluminum tape) and had good results. However I have used it on flatter surfaces. An engine or trans would be difficult to do. 

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7 minutes ago, Oldmopars said:

*** I am not an Expert***

That is going to be hard, anything meant to replicate a metal finish is going to be metallic, brushing metallic paint rarely gives great results if the surface is very big. 

If the surface is right, you could use bare metal foil. I have used that or air conditioning style tape (Aluminum tape) and had good results. However I have used it on flatter surfaces. An engine or trans would be difficult to do. 

Currently I use Model Master Aluminum, Steel, and Chrome dulled with acrylic flat. I also have an old bottle of Model Master Metalizzer Magnesium that is supposed to be sprayed but I brush it and it doesn't look too bad.  As for BMF, it is my go to for chrome trim.   I was just wondering what others use.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I thin out some of the crafts paints for brushing, goes pretty well actually for small items at least. I agree that MM Metalizers could be brushed for smaller parts but even an aluminum transmission I would instead break out the airbrush. One thing about those paints is a couple of flushings with plain old lacquer thinner pretty much cleans up the airbrush without a tear down.

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I am also no expert! I routinely brush paint transmissions, exhaust manifolds, and intake manifolds with MM Metalizers. I think the Titanium looks good on iron transmissions. I have also brush painted gas tanks, and I think exhaust pipes would work too. On smooth surfaces like gas tanks and exhaust pipes, you won't get a perfectly consistent color and finish, but those parts are not perfectly consistent on 1:1 cars either. I tend to flow the paint on pretty wet. I mostly use Metalizer "Steel", "Magnesium", and "Titanium". Since those paints are going away, I don't know what I will do when they are gone.

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I think the first step would be to look for photos of the chassis and drive train of the car you're building. This will give you general idea of what it should look like. With all of the different parts of the suspension, steering, engine, transmission, differential, and drive shaft there are a lot of different surfaces and colors. berr13 mentioned Tamiya AS-12 Bare-Metal Silver and this is a light silver that would be a good bases for any part that would be brighter in color but with a flat finish. A few of the brush paints that I have used are from Tamiya with part numbers XF-1 Flat Black, X-18 Semi Gloss Black, X-32 Titanium Silver, XF-16 Flat Aluminum, XF-56 Metallic Gray, this has a flat finish,  for just a few. I suggest what ever colors you use think about a light touch of either  X-19 Smoke or Black Panel Line Accent along edges or any feature you would want to have standout. They are a very thin black and do not cover or hide the nut or bolt but leaves just a little darkness around the base that will make it stand out, and if you get too much on the part you can use your finger or a damp towel to remove what you need to get the finish you want. These are just basic suggestions and you might want to check out any Military paints as they offer a lot of colors and shades you might not normally think of.  

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