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1968 Revell Mustang 2’n1


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Well have the body and parts painted still need to go in and detail paint motor and interior and some other bits and pieces which I enjoy but not liking how the paint on the body isn’t all consistent so not sure might put another layer of paint on the body parts.  Used Rust-Oleum gloss apple red on top of Rust-Oleum flat gray and flat black primers. 

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Nice colour, but it appears the plastic might have experienced crazing. This occurs when a paint is 'too hot' (chemically speaking) and it attacks the plastic. Would need to see photos of the body in better lighting to tell for sure.

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Just now, Bainford said:

Nice colour, but it appears the plastic might have experienced crazing. This occurs when a paint is 'too hot' (chemically speaking) and it attacks the plastic. Would need to see photos of the body in better lighting to tell for sure.

Wow thank you for the reply and info that is very helpful actually.

I had heard it was best to warm your paint cans prior to painting. I have a sink in my garage I would run hot water into a glass and let the paint can sit in that for 5-10 minutes to warm up prior to spraying anything. 

 

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When I say the paint is 'too hot', I'm not referring to temperature of the paint, but of the chemical aggressiveness of the solvents that make up the paint. I can't tell for certain if it is crazing without seeing photos in better lighting. Crazing manifests itself as a rough texture in the finished paint, but it is actually the plastic itself that has developed the rough texture. The 'hot' paint attacks the surface of the plastic and causes the surface to go grainy and pebbly. This can be avoided by proper preparation of the plastic before painting (which involves a learning curve) or by sticking with paints and primers formulated specifically for plastic models. Or, pretty much any acrylic paint will be safe, too.

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2 minutes ago, Bainford said:

When I say the paint is 'too hot', I'm not referring to temperature of the paint, but of the chemical aggressiveness of the solvents that make up the paint. I can't tell for certain if it is crazing without seeing photos in better lighting. Crazing manifests itself as a rough texture in the finished paint, but it is actually the plastic itself that has developed the rough texture. The 'hot' paint attacks the surface of the plastic and causes the surface to go grainy and pebbly. This can be avoided by proper preparation of the plastic before painting (which involves a learning curve) or by sticking with paints and primers formulated specifically for plastic models. Or, pretty much any acrylic paint will be safe, too.

I gotcha I was taking ya to literally... That makes sense. I usually try and do a nice 600grit then 1,000grit sanding to the body before paint then wash it with Dawn dish soap and let it sit for a day before I paint it. I can see the roughness you are talking about and I think you are spot on. Thanks for the info!

 

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  • 1 month later...

Wow been longer than I thought... Haven’t had any time but to walk by my models to and from work for awhile but I should have some time now. 
 

I just stripped this and have had it sitting in the garage workstation until today. Going to try and primer it again and use a different color I will hopefully get to pick/spray sometime this week/weekend if life doesn’t get in the way again.... 

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I sure wouldn't use Rustoleum enamels as my primer or base color paint. It's just too thick and uncontrollable for model cars. 

Although I do use their clear lacquer on top of automotive touch up paint  (also lacquer) and there it works great!

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Okay was at Autozone today and picked up a couple cans of Dupli Color spray paints I used to prime/paint. Sprayed 2 light coats then a heavy third/final coat. So far it’s looking good to my eyes and paint doesn’t seem to be doing anything funky yet.... 

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