Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

I had been looking for a Ron Cash Ford COE cab and hood for a while, and finally acquired one via eBay a few months ago, so it's now time to get the ball rolling on this project. The only issue is the cab isn't representative of any actual Ford F-series COE that I have found nor seen. It retains the narrower fenders from the F-1 through F-4(?) trucks, while the COE version should have wider fenders, grille surround, etc....hence the F-3.5 title. I've decided to use the cab as-is and not widen/correct the front clip, so I guess it will be a phantom of sorts.

The main parts I'm starting with are the aforementioned 1/25 Ron Cash Ford F-5 COE cab, hood, and front bumper,  the 1/25 W57 set of six 5-hole, 5-lug 20" dually wheels and 34" tires from Scenes Unlimited, frame rails, leaf springs, and cross members from the 1/24 Italeri GM-Opel Blitz, a few odd bits from the 1/25 IMC Dodge L-700, and various parts from the 1/25 Monogram '50 Ford F-1 pickup. A few parts from the 1/25 Revell '41 Chevy pickup are shown below in white, but I'm not sure I'll end up using any of them.

I'm still undecided regarding what will be resting upon the rear frame rails. A vintage cargo box is the leading candidate at this point, so, we'll see what happens as the truck itself progresses. Engine choice is something I need to decide on relatively quickly, too, but I will be keeping it in the Blue oval V8 family.





I did some preliminary research regarding the rearend, which needs to be larger and a more heavy-duty style, so I think the IMC Dodge L-700's Eaton 2-speed rear can be modified a bit to pass for the real thing:





Here's the IMC Dodge L-700 rearend, prior to sanding:



The rearend housing appears to have the correct overall shape and size, so I will only need to change the carrier assembly. At least the mounting surface against the rearend housing is flat, so that makes things a bit easier.


Edited by Casey
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I did start working on the front wheels, as the outer lip/rim of one wheel was breaking away from the hoop. Not sure if this was related to the material or the thickness and strength limit of the 3D (master?) part itself, but the wheels are very nicely designed, so I'm okay with making some changes and/or upgrades in this case. I removed the outer lip, sanded the wheel center's face a bit smoother, and created a new wheel hoop with integral front and rear lips out of aluminium on the lathe. Still need to define the step in the outer lip bit more, but the main goal was getting the wheel center to fit properly inside the hoop, which was achieved. Still some sanding work to do on the wheel center for a better finish around the outer edge, then repeat for the second wheel. New wheel hoop on left, Scenes Unlimited supplied wheel on right:



Edited by Casey
Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I removed the gear carrier entirely, sanded the mounting flange on the rearend housing flat, and found some pieces which are close to the correct shape and size for using building a passable carrier. The tan colored piece is likely from a military kit (not important which, really), but the O.D. of the flange is perfect for the side closest to the housing, so that'll be my starting point upon which I will build the rest. The other pieces shown may donate something small or nothing at all.

Step one:



Test fit of the tan piece, prior to thinning the flange. The excess to the right will be removed:




The other parts which may be used:



I also added the front crossmember, joining the frame rails, so at least the front frame width is set for now:


Edited by Casey
Link to post
Share on other sites

Great to see you tackle a medium duty Casey. Looks like you have most of the necessary parts to build a very realistic COE. The cabovers did have a slightly wider front end, but I would just leave it as is also. You might want to enlarge  the fender openings  though.  Scene Unlimited wheels  will look great on this one.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/21/2021 at 7:55 AM, leafsprings said:

You might want to enlarge  the fender openings  though.

I definitely plan to do just that. I measured the O.D. of the tires (1.425') this afternoon to determine the new wheel arch diameter, so I just need to find something the correct O.D, then get to sanding.

I finished making the second wheel hoop today, a match for the previously completed one. Unfortunately, I forgot to machine the wheel lip detail on the outer lip while the piece was still in the lathe, so the detail is a tiny bit eccentric, but I can live with it. Its as good and excuse as any to invest in a four-jaw chuck, something which is long overdue on my part.

I did some minor clean up on wheel number two's brake cooling slots, removed both the outer and inner lips, then sanded the wheel face smooth. A test fit inside the new hoop showed everything looked good, so both wheel centers were permanently joined to their hoops:




I pulled out the frame tried out a few cross members I had from various kits, and wasn't satisfied with any of them, so I'll make some out of styrene strips/shapes. The cross members (as well as most of the other parts) from the Italeri Opel Blitz are quite different from what would be used on American trucks, so those aren't of much use either.

I will probably create new hoops for the four rear wheels, too, as it's not difficult, I already have plenty of aluminum tubing in the correct diameter, and I like the extra strength/solidity it provides. The wheels from Scenes Unlimited are excellent as they come, so you won't need to do anything but use them-- this is solely a personal choice on my part. I can't say enough good things about the wheel and tires, honestly. I'm so glad Danny created these and offers them, as they are sorely needed.

Here's the starting point for the rear wheels:


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Ready to roll. I used the rear brake drums (not shown) from the AMT Ford C-600 kit, which filled out the rear inner wheels nicely. Still need paint and some detail sanding, but, mostly there:




Edited by Casey
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...