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1928 Lincoln Sport Touring


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I've had this kit for about 30 years so I guess its time to give it a go.  Unfortunately, its been raining for about 3 days off and on and tomorrow. So in the meantime, I am cleaning up the pieces and putting togehter some assemblies that I can paint later. The chrome in the kit is very good but some of the vanilla plastic pieces have some flash and injector thingys to deal with. I assemble the trunk and trunk rack for the back and will also work on the engine to get the block together for paint. I can also work on the wheel assemblies by just painting the brake hubs black.  There are no color callouts in the directions so I guess I'll go with the box and use red, black and a little silver. Thanks for looking! 😎

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You could get those old Lincolns in just about any colour scheme you want.  Conceptcarz.com has some good reference pics, and just googling "1928 Lincoln" (1927s are practically identical) will yield a wealth of reference photos.

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Thanks for the comments and questions. 

Carl, I paint on the patio outside year-round. In the heat and humidity of the summertime, I'll paint a body and walk it back into the house while still wet and gassing out. I know it will still smell so I try to do it when Grumpma is gone shopping. Or I'll carry it into my model room, turn on a couple of air purifiers, and shut the door. That usually will be acceptable but not exactly approved by Grumpma. 

As for the six tires and wheels, only 5 of mine are the same size tires. One is definitely smaller than the others and the white wall ring won't fit. Its either purposely that way to force the modeler to use the plastic tires or tire cannisters ( I haven't figured them out yet) or its just poor quality control. Too late now! 

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Nice start on your Lincoln, I just started mine too. The instructions are pretty vague & not even right on the engine. The instructions say that the distributor cap & wire loom for the plug wires is an oil line. The fan & top pulley look like they go in the timing cover but they don't. It's not clear about the water outlet on the water pump.  It had me aggravated until I googled some pictures of the real thing. If you need some parts let me know, I'm not using all of mine because I'm turning it into a wrecker. Here are a couple pics to help you out and keep going, it looks like it's going to be a nice kit when it's finished.

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Thanks Mark and Rusty! I appreciate the comments!  Mark, thanks for the tips, I had figured out that the oil line per the instructions was really the spark plug wires conduit but hadn't figured out the fan location, so thanks for that tip. When I was searching for photos I saw the first one that you posted and thought, wait a minute everything is backwards!  Then I realized I was looking at it from the right side not the left! 😁 You've got a nice idea with the truck. Hope to see it on here! 

I haven't gotten much done, assembled the engine block and painted it gunmetal after de-chroming the block. I assembled 4 wheels and tires and have primered a number of parts now that its not raining today.  Hopefully more tomorrow! Here's a couple of pics of the difference in tire size in my kit and the 4 assembled wheels. Thanks for looking! 😎

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Tamiya has several spray colors that would work very nicely. Their maroon, French Blue, Racing Green, Racing White, and British Green and #55 Dark Blue would all be good colors for that. A light tan or black top would be most correct. Interiors could be a few different colors. Most common were a dark tan, black, and dark red. From what I've seen, fenders were almost always black.

Charlie Larkin

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Posted (edited)

Thanks, Charlie, D, and Carl! I appreciate your comments! Charlie, those are all very good suggestions but unfortunately I don't have any of those colors at the moment and it will take two weeks before I could get them here. It's a great day to paint today so I went for it!  So I had a partial can of Testors Flame Red so I used it on the body. I think Testors discontinued that color so that's the last of that. In bright light it looks pretty bright but in regular light it looks pretty dark. I painted the fender unit flat black for a color coat or an additional primer coat and then followed with Testors Semi-gloss black after taping off the running boards so they can stay flat black. Both the body and fender unit got a coat of clear and they both turned out well. Very little, if any, rubbing out. I painted the top, interior, spare tire covers and trunk Krylon Khaki with a coat of dullcote. I may need an additional coat of dullcote. Thanks for looking! 😎

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Edited by ModelcarJR
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Cool!  I have an old junker kit that I was building into some kind of commercial Grapes of Wrath type truck.  I used two of my chrome wire wheels and tires on one of my rat rods, and a pair of those tires fit (with a little carving) onto Monogram 1/24 Model A wheels for beefier tires on my beach racer.

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Thanks, Tom and Carl! I appreciate your comments! 

I rubbed out the body and took a little too much paint from right side so I had just enough paint to paint the right side again. I also separated the two top hood pieces from the sprue and it left bare spots on the hinge and top rail running on top of the doors.. I should have separated these pieces from the sprue before I painted. I sanded them down and remounted on a bottle and repainted them. Then I re-cleared both the hood pieces and the body. Turned out pretty well. 

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Next, I started putting the frame together. I couldn't figure out how to keep the frame square. Then I thought about using something through the hooks on the front and back of the frame to give me a visual whether or not the frame was square. I used a couple of pieces of brass rod that I normally use to ream out the nozzle for my super glue bottle. The glue build-up help keep the rod in place in the hooks of the frame. I did decide to break a glue joint because the frame was not square and while re-gluing used the rod to gently push in the left side while holding the glue joint tightly with my other hand. The front suspension was a little tricky. I had to sand down the ends of the tie rod because the pins on the spindle arms barely poked through. Then I successful heated up a knife blade and melted the ends of the pins to keep the tie rod in place and working properly. I ready for the rest of the frame assembly but I am going to put the engine together first so that I can get everything in place at the same time. Thanks for looking! 😎

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Posted (edited)

The engine is done and the chassis construction is complete. The wheels are poseable at the moment and hopefully the rack and pinion steering will work through the steering wheel when the interior is done. I mocked up the fender unit and body and everything looks good. I didn't rub out the fender unit nor the body after the re-paint and second clear coat. Hopefully I can keep my hands clean so I won't have to rub them out as they have a nice gloss and finish now. Thanks for looking! 😎

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Edited by ModelcarJR
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Wow, great progress. I'm having a hard time getting my frame straight too, that's why mine kind of stalled. I really like your color choice & the red heads and intake look great.

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On 4/17/2021 at 9:14 AM, Mike F. said:

Looks like a nice kit to work with.

Are there two spares? One each side?/

In those days terrible road conditions and flat tires were a fact of travel life. With an accessory trunk mounted where dual spaces might normally be the spares became in- fender mounted on these cars.somehow they add an essence of elegance to the gracefully sloping fenders.

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10 hours ago, misterNNL said:

In those days terrible road conditions and flat tires were a fact of travel life. 

Amen! My grandfather once told me the story of their honeymoon. This was 1932 and the car was a 1931 Chevy roadster. The trip was from Jersey City, NJ to Atlantic City. The trip took 8 hours and he felt fortunate that he only had two flat tires!  
 

Back in those days, it was all slow going on local roads through every town and city, a lot of it unpaved.  Today? A 3 hour ride at 80mph on the Garden State Parkway, no flat tires!

Edited by Tom Geiger
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Thanks, Mark, Tom, and Tom! I appreciate your comments! 

Well, everything was going fine until I got to the interior. The interior just doesn't fit well and I had to modify the second cowl to get the body to clear. I got rid of the storage compartment door as it doesn't fit either and can't be seen anyway behind the front seat.  I also had to cut away part of the front door panels to fit the dash into place.  Then I made my big mistake.

I couldn't figure out how to glue the body/interior into place since the jump seats were suppose to slip in and be trapped by the rear seat flooring. I should have just glued the rear seat flooring onto the fender unit and then found a couple of spots up front, like around the firewall posts on each side to tack it down. Instead, I put a bead of my medium CA on the bottom edge of the interior/body to glue it to the fender unit. The result was a battle to keep the body attached with the resulting glue fog on the fender unit and tops of the rear fenders. So that took hours to touch up with a brush and remove some of the glue that had seeped out onto the right rear fender. I scraped most of it off and then use one pass of wet semi-gloss black with a wide brush to cover. I also needed a few brushes of flame red.  I should have known better. 

I ended up gluing the jump seats in anyway. I am not going to use the second windshield on the second cowl because the glass for this windshield wasn't included in my kit (it was sealed and I know I bought it in a hobby shop 30 years ago). I did cut some clear sheet to use but once I cleaned up the windshield frame I had removed so much chrome that it didn't look good anyway. The chrome comes off of these pieces just by handling them, including the wheel centers and the radiator. 

So here's a few pictures of the battle. This build will be destined for the Shelf of Shame! Thanks for looking! 😩

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I must say, you've picked a striking combination. The mid-1960s GM red is close to some of the reds used in the era, so it's not a bad choice, and would have been most eye-catching on a big car like a Lincoln.

Regarding the availability of colors, particularly with the major shake-up of Testors by Rust-Oleum, and, despite their statements to the contrary, the possible end of Testors altogether being something that could happen, it's not a terrible idea to consider investing in MCW or Scale Finishes paints and an airbrush and compressor. I've found both MCW and Scale Finishes paints, while expensive upfront, are very economical. The airbrushing has generally cut my paint consumption dramatically, and many of the colors can be used for other applications.

In addition, MCW is releasing hundreds of brushable enamels to replace the Model Master line. Not cheap, but having tried a couple of bottles, I can say it's the paint Model Master always wanted to be.

Charlie Larkin

 

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Thanks, Charlie! I appreciate your comment! I do own an Iwata compressor and two Badger 150 air brushes.  The reason I don't use them more often has to do with my painting situation. I have to paint everything outdoors on my patio and moving the compressor, air brush, paint, empty botttle, lacquer thinner can, screwdriver for the lacquer thinner can lid, cleaning rag and model parts to be painted is a PITA! I have no place in the house or garage to set up a permanent paint booth with the proper venting.

But I have been inspired to paint MCW paint on occasion, like this beautiful  65 Pontiac GTO painted in Evening Orchid Metallic, also known as Iris Mist. I haven't used MCW since I bought a couple of bottles just after the change in ownership and both bottles of paint flaked and peeled off.  Maybe they have their act together now and I'll try them again but I will have to be inspired to go through set-up and clean-up for airbrushing. It couldn't have been the painter! 😁

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Here's a pic of the front of the 28 Lincoln. As soon as I finish the rear this one will be done! Thanks for looking! 

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