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Tonite we got the last of the chassis work done.  The front and rear outer wheel pieces are now ready for installation and the chassis is painted.  Still having issues with trying to find a good OD color in a spray can.  I may try one of the auto parts stores to see what they have.  The newer model paints are too dark for this vintage vehicle.  Anyway here we are to date.

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Nice work! One can really pick out the chassis and suspension details, and just enough weathering on the exhaust and engine to add realism, nice!

As for the spray cans, a local autobody supply shop should be able to mix up a custom spray can for you, I've had it done.  I like the one in this picture, "Pasture Green" as an example

 

1946 and 1947 Willys Paint Chips.jpg

jeep1945green.jpg

Edited by hct728(Bob)
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Work begun on the body.  Basic construction is with .030" Evergreen stock.  The inside of the bed came from the '41 Chevy pickup kit.  It was exactly the right width and only needed to be shortened about 1/4".  The raised center part of the tailgate and the front of the body raised portion were made using 0.040" half round stock.  Small strip brass was used for the hinges and the upper latches.  Each of the tail lights and side lights on the body are indented.  So far the back ones were done by opening up each area and using a rat tail file to make the opening round.  Then a piece of sheet was glued to the inner face of the body.  Finally a drop of casting resin was put into the opening.  Surface tension kept the resin up against the outer portion of the opening.  When it set it looks like the edges are beveled.  Now to begin some work on the front fenders.  If it looks like the body is extra wide compared to the rear wheels it is.  The track is only 63" while the body width is 82.  Maybe in the design they were expecting to use double wheels in the back but this is how it is.

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The front fenders are just about the same as the Power Wagon that came out after the war.  There have been several done as diecasts; Danbury Mint, Matchbox and Ertl to name a few.  Below are a pair of resin cast fenders that were done using the Danbury Mint model as a master.  The shape is good and surprisingly it is the right scale and width.  However, I'm finding them too thick for my taste so using some masking tape I covered the surface of them and then trimmed the tape. The tape was lifted off as one piece and laid flat on some brass sheet.  I'll cut the outlines, bend to shape and solder on the tapered edge.  The results will be a much finer fender line.

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Since the last post I have made an executive decision to switch to Ren Shape for the front fenders.  Having done one fender in brass the decision was easy as there is much more control over the shape.  Once a set is made a mold will be made to cast two sets.  One set for this one and one for the next one when it comes on the line.

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Here are the pieces carved from Ren Shape for the fenders.  With this work completed the next task is to give them a coat of clear gloss to seal the pores and then they will be ready for casting.  The block in the background of the first photo is the Ren Shape.   The outline of the fender was drawn on one face and the fender was roughed out on the band saw.  then the outside curves were sanded to the line drawn.  Then the final underside was sanded out using a Dremel and sanding disk.  In one fender I had to add a small sliver of Ren Shape to the inside but it is sanded smooth.  It takes CA glue nicely.  The inner fenders will be done separately to fit on top of the frame.  Once the fenders are cast the inner fender pieces will be glued to the fenders themselves.  This will strengthen the castings and keep them from possibly sagging later on although that was not an issue when I did the fenders for the Class 325's.

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Such a neat job done on that body! Love the chains and hinge detail. Fenders look good too, ready for casting.

Wondering if the brass ones could be formed over a wooden buck and then duplicated, never worked with brass sheet before though. Think it would be cool to use the TV show fender shaping techniques on a model!

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3 hours ago, hct728(Bob) said:

Such a neat job done on that body! Love the chains and hinge detail. Fenders look good too, ready for casting.

Wondering if the brass ones could be formed over a wooden buck and then duplicated, never worked with brass sheet before though. Think it would be cool to use the TV show fender shaping techniques on a model!

I'm not a good tinker, Bob!  I've tried it several times, some results not so good, others ok,  The most difficult part is getting the bend at the outside edges.  I tried soldering a thin strip to the fender once it was curved but that meant having to bend the strip in two different directions.  Even after annealing it was not easy.  So I just went with what worked before.  Besides I am doing two of these rigs so making a mold meant killing two birds with one stone.  Or in this case casting two sets of fenders with one mold!

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10 hours ago, Chariots of Fire said:

I'm not a good tinker, Bob!  I've tried it several times, some results not so good, others ok,  The most difficult part is getting the bend at the outside edges.  I tried soldering a thin strip to the fender once it was curved but that meant having to bend the strip in two different directions.  Even after annealing it was not easy.  So I just went with what worked before.  Besides I am doing two of these rigs so making a mold meant killing two birds with one stone.  Or in this case casting two sets of fenders with one mold!

Just happened to come across an old Model Cars Mag article where you used brass, looked great but a lot of work as you say. Nice to see it again in print, thank you for your past articles demonstrating these techniques, as now!

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The fenders have been cast and the process of mounting them in the right place is being done.  Lots of trial and error, even with scale drawings because so many different things have to match up.  I did some study of the photos in the technical manual reproduction to get some information.  The rest is just getting pieces cut, fit here, cut there, sand this, match that.....etc.  

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In the background is the mold and the two Ren Shape fender masters.  They were simply glued down to a flat base like the casting at the right and a box was built around them to hold the RTV.  Even with the raised outer edge, the castings can be removed easily one they are set hard.  

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It took a bit to get everything lined up.  The grill guard is made of small strip brass and wire soldered together.  If the winch was not part of the model the grill guard would extend down abut twice as far.  But the winch and its frame do the same thing to protect the radiator from objects coming at it from the front.  The fender at lower right will be trimmed as the right one that is now on the frame.  Not only is it a piece of the model detail it really stiffens up the resin casting so that it will not sag.  The fender has an outer edge that is thicker than the underneath part.  The radiator shroud is temporarily screwed to the radiator so that things can be lined up.  Once all is said and done the radiator cap will hide the screw.

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On 7/26/2021 at 11:35 PM, Chariots of Fire said:

Was that the issue that featured the USAF Type O-5 Crash Truck?

That's the one, Aug/Sept 2012, the cover story! Lots of brass work went into that model!

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Nice work on this one, love the grille guard, things are really taking shape now. Thanks for the update and process used

Edited by hct728(Bob)
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