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2× Chevy Bison


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What's the difference between a buffalo and a bison? You can't wash your hands in a buffalo! Couldn't resist the old joke

I shouldn't start another build with one already on the go but I'm itching to dip into the scrapyard I've just bought off Ebay and I spent a snatched hour achieving nothing on my Peterbilt this afternoon so I wanted a fix.

I got two Snaptite Chevy Bisons, (I'd prefer the GMC General but beggars can't be choosers). I'm going to do one as a daycab and the other as a double sleeper using the offcut from the daycab. I snatched a moment today to do the cut and the transplant. Not great pictures but I was a bit pushed for time. 

I'm going to do my usual rectification work on the chassis and running gear so I'll leave that out, hopefully just show the major mods. 

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4 hours ago, Russell C said:

I had basically the same double sleeper idea back  in late 1981 ..... one of these days I need to find time to fix that model.

 

Well you will be pleased to hear that I found your build on the interwebs and was inspired to do one of my own! The resulting daycab was a bonus. 

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Cutting the sleeper off the one can left a huge hole in the rear wall of course. Looking at photos of real Bison cabs the rear wall is dimpled to add rigidity with it being a monocoque cab. To get dimensions for the new rear wall I downloaded a photo from the web and put the kit cab against the screen of my tablet. I adjust the size of the photo until the image matches the size of the kit cab. Then I can mark the size of the window as well as the pressings in the rear wall. 

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I drew the shape on a piece of card then cut the outer edge out. I cut 2mm strips of card and laid these in the recess created to form the five depressions the rear wall has. 

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Shaped the hole in the rear wall to match the card and popped it in. Lot of cleaning up to do but it's getting there. 

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Edited by Rockford
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I didn't realize how fat the kit bumper is, miles away from the real thing.

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I removed three millimetres from the bumper and the mountings. Sits a lot better now. I'm thinking of moving the front fenders forward slightly. 

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Slathered the rear wall in stopper. As I rub it down with wet and dry it will assume the softer lines of the original pressing. 

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6 hours ago, Rockford said:

I didn't realize how fat the kit bumper is, miles away from the real thing. .......

You're on it! That's one of the first things I did several years back, with no forward progress afterward. My plan is to use the AMT 32nd scale tires & wheels, but since they are actually undersized just a bit in scale, I'll have to commit a somewhat deceptive visual trick (don't tell anyone!) to compensate for that, namely lowering the cab down where it mounts to the frame. I may still be caught and sent to model builders' jail for that crime, but oh, well.  😃

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Russ, I feel your pain. I've pondered the wheel and tire situation many times but I can't bring myself to use the AMT pieces, they're just too small for me. The amount of things I'd have to alter to make them look right would be too much, arches, tandem spacing etc... It's such a shame because they're very well done, but their wheels are worse than the Monogram ones. 

I've also considered what I can do to improve the Monogram units, and I'm at a loss. The aftermarket is just too expensive for me, though there are some 3D printed wheels on the internet. 

I'm resigned to using the kit pieces and thinking that they won't attract too much attention because they're matt black. In fact I've decided to use the Monogram wheels and tires on the AMT W900 Aerodyne I've got because they look better overall. 

I'd like to see your GMC back together. You inspired me, maybe I can inspire you! 

 

Edited by Rockford
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Had a nice time this afternoon cutting and shaping little bits of plastic, then dropping them and crawling around on the floor searching! 

Decided a chassis this long wouldn't have a one piece driveshaft as supplied in the kit as it would start "whipping" and shake itself to pieces. So, using various diameter plastic and aluminium tube I made a two piece affair with a centre bearing on the cross member. Carved my yokes out of tube quite easily. Looks ok. 

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Did my first rubbing down on the filler. Pleased with the results. Put another skim on the sides because of some pitting. The recess edges are softer now, more like the real pressed panel.

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Also moved the battery box/step combo back to the middle of the door. I'll make some air tanks to go in front of it. Once the unit was fairly solid in its new position I thought I'd run some liquid cement into the joints for extra strength. As I moved the brush towards the piece a big drop fell onto the front of the battery box. I was blazing! One step forward...

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Not a lot of work this week. Stretched the chassis for the double sleeper by grafting the back end of a T600 KW onto the front of the Chevy chassis. Here you can see it clamped down to try and get it straight. Never works. 

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Wanted the chrome strip across the bottom lip of the fender. Stuck electrician's tape to the bottom lip. Then laid 0.5mm square strip across the top. Ran liquid cement into the top section, then when it had set pulled the two ends down and did the same again. The tape holds the shape while it sets. Once it's set remove the tape and trim the strip. Just needs a rub down to take the sharp edges off. You can also see the airtanks I made and mounted in front of the battery box. 

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Here's the extended chassis for the double sleeper version. Straight enough to pass inspection. I am going to have to move the fenders forward and the battery box back because it just doesn't look right to me, although I know they used to build them like that with the extra step assembly behind. The green rubber band isn't permanent. 

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17 hours ago, Rockford said:

... I am going to have to move the fenders forward ...

At first I thought the Monogram kit had the fenders forward enough relative to the front face of the headlight bezels to the grille, but now I see what sets the fenders too far back -- it's the sheer thickness front-to-back of the bezels themselves, just like the way-to-thick front bumper, as seen in this side view of the "Smokey Bandit II" General. Probably since this was a snap-together kit, Monogram over-engineered the parts so that they wouldn't be too fragile for kids to press together.

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Russell, good research there mate! I suppose you have to work out when to stop. 

I was confined to barracks today so I did a bit on the double sleeper. Did my usual mods to the quarter fenders, mudflaps, chassis flanges and fifth wheel.

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Added the trim strip to the front fender lips, relocated the battery box and made another driveshaft with a centre bearing. Did a quick mock-up with the fuel tanks propped up in place, and I'm pleased with the stance and proportions because I only stretched the chassis by about 15mm. It actually reminds me of Sonny Pruitt's W900 in Movin' on, which is one of my all time favourites. 

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