Straightliner59 Posted July 31, 2022 Author Share Posted July 31, 2022 1 hour ago, bisc63 said: Very nice scratch-building! Interior is impressive already. Will you add any sort of rivet detailing? Thanks, Rusty! It will get any rivets that are appropriate, for sure. I'll probably break down the trans/driveline tunnel into three sections, as well. 1 hour ago, Ian McLaren said: The interior is really starting to look like the real deal, well done on the bead rolling I always have the challenge of either not enough bead and deform the panel or the bead is too pronounced, you seem to have hit the sweet spot and they look great. I appreciate that, Ian. Bead-rolling this stuff is pretty tricky, just for the reasons you noted. I ended up using a ball-ended burnishing tool. It worked pretty well, but it kept wanting to seize in the aluminum. I may try some petroleum jelly, to see if that loosens it up a tad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian McLaren Posted July 31, 2022 Share Posted July 31, 2022 The best results I ever had was using a fine point BIC pen the tip has a roller ball in it, It was .015 soft aluminum but I forget from where, for the Vega panel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted July 31, 2022 Author Share Posted July 31, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ian McLaren said: The best results I ever had was using a fine point BIC pen the tip has a roller ball in it, It was .015 soft aluminum but I forget from where, for the Vega panel This stuff is about .007"(?). It's very soft while it can be used for body panels, etc., I prefer and recommend flashing for anything like bodies (especially cowls, and other pieces with compound curves), and firewalls, structural floors or other structural components. This stuff is called "Maid-O-Metal" Tooling Aluminum. It works beautifully for covering plastic panels with aluminum. I will post more photos with explanations, later, as I intended to explain this material a little more deeply, anyway... In the meantime, I think I can live with these! I am getting kind of excited about this project! I used a ball ended stylus/burnisher, because all I have are medium point pens, but I want to try one. Thanks, Ian! Edited July 31, 2022 by Straightliner59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYLIBUD Posted August 1, 2022 Share Posted August 1, 2022 Looking great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 23 hours ago, NYLIBUD said: Looking great. Thanks, Ron. I hope to have photos of the rest of the tin, installed, later tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NYLIBUD Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 I don’t know if u mentioned it,but where do u buy the Maid O Metal?Like i said,it looks great.I used to either spray the tin interior on my drag cars with metal colored paint,or used tin foil,but that usually didn’t really come out that well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 3 hours ago, NYLIBUD said: I don’t know if u mentioned it,but where do u buy the Maid O Metal?Like i said,it looks great.I used to either spray the tin interior on my drag cars with metal colored paint,or used tin foil,but that usually didn’t really come out that well. I got it at Hobby Lobby. Michael's has it, too. There's probably something similar, on Ebay. It's handy stuff, to have around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 2, 2022 Author Share Posted August 2, 2022 Most of the tinwork is in. I'll probably use some black paint (maybe white--experiments are in order!😃) and aluminum or chrome powder to hide some of the seams. I still need to work out the trans hump/driveline tube. Once that's sorted, I can work out, and on the shifter linkages. I'm thinking of painting it Mulsanne Blue, since I bought a can for the Chevelle, that I won't be using. Seems a shame to sully such a gorgeous color with garish, '80s graphics, but zeitgeist is as important as technical accuracy, in these projects! As always...and, thanks for looking! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian McLaren Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 Progressing nicely, loving the last two photos, really looks like a real one during construction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 Coming along nicely. definitely one to watch ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 That detail inside will really add to the build. Great job on the tubs! cheers, tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 4, 2022 Author Share Posted August 4, 2022 15 hours ago, Ian McLaren said: Progressing nicely, loving the last two photos, really looks like a real one during construction. Thank you, Ian. That means a lot, sir! 15 hours ago, cobraman said: Coming along nicely. definitely one to watch ! Thanks, Ray. I appreciate it! 11 hours ago, Codi said: That detail inside will really add to the build. Great job on the tubs! cheers, tim I figure that, if I'm going curbside, it had better be interesting! 🙂 Thanks, Tim. I had tried some cement I have, in place of my standard contact cement. I thought I'd try it, because it's clear, and it's supposed to bond almost anything--except aluminum to plastic, apparently! I've since recemented them with contact cement. Problem solved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 4, 2022 Author Share Posted August 4, 2022 Tinwork is nearing completion. I think that ocean of aluminum looks pretty cool! I will build a strip, with all the shifter mechanisms for the Lenco, and mount it to the kit's trans hump. I can then punch holes in the aluminum trans hump, and slip it down over the strip, so I can install the linkages and shifter handles. It should work out, pretty nicely. Comments critiques and questions are always welcomed. Thanks for looking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted August 5, 2022 Share Posted August 5, 2022 Love all that fabricated aluminum! Great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 5, 2022 Author Share Posted August 5, 2022 6 hours ago, CabDriver said: Love all that fabricated aluminum! Great work! Thank you, Mr. King! Since I posted this, I added these panels with rolled beads to the doors. I shaped a piece of .060" styrene to guide the same ball-ended stylus seen above. It worked really well! Lubricant on the stylus end definitely helps it function more smoothly. I had a can of Motor Kote spray sitting here, and have been using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 5, 2022 Author Share Posted August 5, 2022 I guess I didn't ever post a photo of the stylus I used to create the beads in the door panels and tubs. This one has two ends of different sizes. I used the smaller of the two. Also shown are the other items I used--some only during the test phase. I have since learned that using a straight-edge to flatten the beads, along the edges really helps to clean up their appearance. When using a custom-cut "bead form", once the panel is formed, it can be flipped over, and the form fits perfectly in the outline, and can also be used to flatten the metal, right up to the bead. The Maid-O-Metal aluminum is very malleable. Once I'd cut the tops of the tubs, and was happy with the fit, I flattened them out again, and measured for the beads, and marked them. I then used the stylus, alongside a straightedge, and worked slowly, until I liked the appearance of the beads. All that was left, then, was to install them using contact cement, which I have found to be most reliable for gluing this stuff. I hope someone is able to get some use out of this! 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B. Posted August 6, 2022 Share Posted August 6, 2022 Your tinwork is incredible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBorg Posted August 6, 2022 Share Posted August 6, 2022 Thanks for the info......the flattening of the sides is the step I've been missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 6, 2022 Author Share Posted August 6, 2022 8 hours ago, John B. said: Your tinwork is incredible! Thank you, John. Much appreciated! 6 hours ago, iBorg said: Thanks for the info......the flattening of the sides is the step I've been missing. Uh, yeah...I just figured that part out, myself!😄 Using a custom-cut template to trace around really improves things, as well. I've been playing with this tooling aluminum for over twenty years, and I'm still learning new ways to work it! It definitely has its place, in modeling, as far as I am concerned. I built the Nostalgia Fueler body from it (but don't recommend it for that use!), and the first body for the Junior Fueler, from it. Ultimately, the Junior Fueler body was built from flashing, as the NFD body will be, eventually. sorry, these photos are poor, but they're the only ones I have of it, with the panels on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian McLaren Posted August 7, 2022 Share Posted August 7, 2022 The Vega is looking great, but I'm obsessing over the dragster, that piece needs to been finished. Disclaimer ( I am a dragster guy. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majel Posted August 7, 2022 Share Posted August 7, 2022 That is some fantastic tin work and bead rolling. Amazing build so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 7, 2022 Author Share Posted August 7, 2022 (edited) 25 minutes ago, Ian McLaren said: ( I am a dragster guy. ) I am, too, for sure. I was looking at photos of Shirley's and Ormsby's Swindahl cars. They both looked so long and low and sleek. A lot more beautiful that people give cars from that era thought to, I think. Here are a few more of the NFD. Thanks, Ian! Glad you like it! Edited August 7, 2022 by Straightliner59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 7, 2022 Author Share Posted August 7, 2022 15 minutes ago, majel said: That is some fantastic tin work and bead rolling. Amazing build so far! Thank you, Jim! Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 8, 2022 Author Share Posted August 8, 2022 I've been doing some work with the rear wheels and brakes. I had never drilled out the lugs before, so, I thought this is as good a time, as any! I turned a set of rotors, too. Calipers are castings from an old Revell '82(?) Camaro kit. Studs/nuts shown here are model RR Hex NBW (nut/bolt/washer). I may just scratchbuild some. As always, questions, comments and critiques are welcome. Thanks for looking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted August 9, 2022 Author Share Posted August 9, 2022 More on the brake rotors and hubs. During final assembly, I will fit and match all the wheel studs and lug nuts. The center discs (axle ends) will get an axle company's logo decal. They should look pretty good, once they're done. I hope they do--it's a lot of work! I have a couple of shots of the linkage "towers" for the Lenco, too. Thanks for looking! Questions, critiques and comments are always welcome. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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