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Posted

As seen in the Mock up thread

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I picked this up at last months club meeting for 10 bones. It was all there except for the instructions and the front glass.

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I also grabbed these too.

The plan for the shell is this

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I found the paint and glass jar at Wally World. The jar contains the reduced material ready for the airbrush. 

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so far I've got the engine figured out. Nothing special.

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and the foundation is just like I want it.

Stay Tuned...

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  • Like 2
Posted

Great looking body style, it will look nice in that blue. I did a '64 in a similar dark blue, and was very happy with how it looked. Good lines can wear just about any color well.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

The prettiest late model Ford ever built, the '40 was the prettiest early model.  Looking forward to you work on this one.  Really interested in the small jar of glitter (?), are you going to mix that in with your paint. What is it called and where in the store is it found?

Edited by TarheelRick
Posted

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Shot some color today. This is my 1st ever airbrush attempt. No idea what I'm doing here. At one point it was spitting out but I think I got it covered. 10psi with the crank about half way open. I'm using a dual action gun. I shot the hood but a piece of dust landed on it. Soap and water rinse and I'll do it again. Any and all tips are welcome

Stay Tuned...

Posted

You should get quite a few informed comments.  You didn't say what the paint is. My first would be that 10 psi is darn low. Seems no primer. Also you need to work on removing mould lines like the one at the C-pillar.

Take it away guys.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Not to critique unnecessarily, but mold seam removal (as mentioned) is an important step in body preparation to get the paint job looking as good as it possibly can. Most examples of this kit I've seen have sink marks or raised areas on the trunk- mold distortion from the posts underneath where the original release screwed down onto the chassis plate. This is pretty common for kits of this vintage (its original release). I have my 40 some-odd year old Prestige issue of this kit tucked away somewhere, and it had two deep sink marks in the trunk lid. I got as far as puttying those and feathering the bodywork, and got distracted by other projects. If they are there on your kit, they don't show as bad as they did on mine. A primer coat helps show areas that require fine-tuning before colour, and helps the top coats adhere better to the base plastic during handling and final assembly. While not every paint type really demands use of a primer, most do benefit from using it.

Air brushing takes some experimentation to get the mixture thin enough to minimize texturel yet thick enough not to run. Seeing as how that paint job seems to have laid down pretty nicely for you, if you can get the hood re-spray matching the rest of the body, then it might be worth hitting everything with some clear coat and finishing the build as-is. I am intrigued as to how your colour choice (I like it) will look under clear coat. I'll be following along.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks for the comments everyone. I looked before I sprayed and I did not see the mold lines until after I sprayed the color. Maybe i should have primed first. The trunk dimples are there but they are not that bad. I did reshoot the hood at 15psi and it turned out nice. I'm anxious for the clear coat.

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I also broke up the interior so I can detail up the door cards.

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stay tuned...

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

From what I see on the hood, it looks like your airbrush skills are already improving.

David G.

Edited by David G.
typo
  • Thanks 1
Posted

The paintwork looks very nice to me, other than the aforementioned mold lines. I really like the color and I'm guessing that you used craft paint, due to the water and soap wash-up comment. I like using craft paint. They have a wide variety of colors and it is simple for clean-up. 

Later-

  • Thanks 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Modlbldr said:

The paintwork looks very nice to me, other than the aforementioned mold lines. I really like the color and I'm guessing that you used craft paint, due to the water and soap wash-up comment. I like using craft paint. They have a wide variety of colors and it is simple for clean-up. 

Later-

I second the comment Tom about craft paint.  We use more expensive model paints and honestly, I get just as good results with craft paint when thinned properly.  

  • Like 2
Posted

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2 coats of clear. No buffing yet.

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Rotors are made from washers and the calipers are cut scrap plastic.

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went with indoor outdoor spray paint for the seats, package tray and door cards. Coffee bean craft paint as a base for the floor covered with dark brown flocking. Waiting on supplies to finish up the interior.

Stay Tuned...

  • Like 3
Posted
On 9/7/2022 at 5:06 AM, Slotto said:

Thanks for the comments everyone. I looked before I sprayed and I did not see the mold lines until after I sprayed the color. Maybe i should have primed first. The trunk dimples are there but they are not that bad. I did reshoot the hood at 15psi and it turned out nice. I'm anxious for the clear coat.

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I also broke up the interior so I can detail up the door cards.

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stay tuned...


Steve, what did you use to open up the interior tub with?   Really great work so far Steve!

  • Thanks 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, slusher said:


Steve, what did you use to open up the interior tub with?   Really great work so far Steve!

Thanks! The past 3 builds I had to do this too. It's kind of a pain but if you want to do up the door cards, it must be done -at least I need to do it. Basically I just score the corners until they snap off. Then I go back and flatten down the ridges caused by the knife so it goes back together. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Chugging along. I mentioned earlier that this kit was missing the front glass. Well, I made one. I used the clear plastic from blister packs.

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anytime I get something that comes packaged this way, I cut apart the package and store it away for just an occasion. 

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first I made a paper template then...

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transferred it to a piece that was big enough.

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then I bent it to fit the curve and held it in place with mini clothespins and glued it in place. 30 minutes later I was good

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also got the grille all detailed up. And the interior is done.

I'm almost there. Only thing left is the firewall and overflow tank. I couldn't help myself, I had to test fit it together. Here's a preview

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Stay Tuned...

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