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BMW 507 Cabrio 1957 - Elvis Presley's one - Revell old kit 1:24


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Morning guys :)

It's an old Revell kit 1:24 of another iconic car, the BMW 507 cabriolet. I bought it 1 or 2 years ago for cheap on EBay

This car was supposed to be the direct competitor and rival of the Mercedes 300SL Gullwing, but never really broke through. Only 252 examples were built and BMW lost a lot of money with this production.

Elvis Presley bought a pearl-white one during his military service in Germany and brought it back to the United States, where he quickly had it repainted in red, tired of regularly seeing the lipstick marks left by his fanatic admirers on its beautiful bodywork.... funny isn't t ?

His car had next a very complicated story and was abandoned during 30 years by his last owner.

Fortunately, it was found in 2014 by an automotive journalist in Jack Castor’s pumpkin warehouse near San Francisco, but in a ad state.

After many discussions, the car came back in Munich, Germany, where BMW Group Classic finally received in  2016 permission to restore it  to its original condition.

I've started this one early July and I'm progressing slowly since it will be widely modified to get the trunk, the doors , the fuel flap openable but also because The kit depicts a BMW 507 series 1, while Elvis's one was a Series 2.

So a lot of surgery is needed !


What's in the box ?:
A lot of clusters (not sure of word is appropriate, "sprues" would be better ? ), with very well done and nicely detailed parts, except for the chrome parts one.

Clear parts are just good, a lot of burrs, but no distortion through them.
Obviously, this kit is at its time's standards (1991) and the quality can't rivalise with Tamiya's one, but is far better than the MB 300 SLR Mille Miglia one





52188654643_7d90c15354_c.jpg   52188614866_3e06ca950f_c.jpg


52188901389_48a797cacb_c.jpg   52188658603_a2da233caa_c.jpg


52188625638_8f488d666c_c.jpg   52188665778_20a7260871_c.jpg


I've decided to paint it Pearl White, as it was when Elvis bought it.

As this car has been recently restored, a lot of videos and photos or press articles is available, what will allow to improve the model by correcting any errors and adding as much details as possible in this scale  


So, let's go for a new adventure :)



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Hi everybody :)

So, I began the kit with the body and my first job was to cut out the trunk and the doors:

52191398596_7eea7faf5d_c.jpg 52192730502_975674aa32_b.jpg

  52194232620_a7e5f8273e_c.jpg 52193761673_5818bf09f2_c.jpg


But I had a first issue, when the body broke juste in front of the trunk ! I repaired it with some styrene glued by the underside and putty:

52193735313_8b1c062b9c_b.jpg  52193741108_4bca636969_c.jpg


Next, I strengthened  the body on the area of doors and boot aperture, taping some thick styrene structs on the body to enhance its rigidity while working on it.



And I glued the nose :

 52196931410_2c9f372186_c.jpg 52196706389_45bacb73e8_c.jpg   52196459153_2a480890c3_c.jpg


And I modified the fuel flap location, which is different between series 1 and 2, and filled with putty the right side mirror location on the kit body (cause it doesn't exist on Elvis's BMW )

52232024329_55ab509ed9_c.jpg    52232102920_0789d622d5_c.jpg

52231753578_c19d70a731_c.jpg   52231687303_2384ec309b_c.jpg

52230697877_784e711469_c.jpg   52230664482_4283d8eaa6_c.jpg


Of course, I had to open the body for the new fuel flap:



I drawn on Fusion 360 and 3D printed a fuel chute:

52236748259_dfdb290f2e_c.jpg   52236747569_1321677e6d_c.jpg




And I scratch-built the flap hinge:

- A short section of 0.6 mm brass tube

- Drill à 0,3 mm hole at an end

- Thread a 0.3 mm copper rod in the hole, protruding on both sides

- Solder the stuffs in-between , right angle, clean etc.



 I fabricated the second part of the hinge with 2 short sections of square styrene rod 2.0 mm, drilled 0.6 mm on their centre

52235487752_f77381ae34_c.jpg   52236746979_d527e711ba_c.jpg


52236748254_0fb5836b9c_c.jpg   52236482388_c40a23bd73_c.jpg


And I installed the system  on the inside of the right rear wing, then installed and glued the tank filler neck, and finally adjusted and glued the hatch on its hinge.

52236482348_b7700438b4_c.jpg   52236481538_cef8a656f9_c.jpg


52236959195_25e49865d9_c.jpg   52235488577_b1f1147d6f_c.jpg


52236960170_d72407a2fc_c.jpg   52235488777_57e495db5e_c.jpg


52235488642_dd21013a41_c.jpg   52236747964_f752c2c746_c.jpg


52236748079_f64ac93685_c.jpg   52236747979_facb658ba7_c.jpg


More on this in a later post :)

Stay connected if you like 😎


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Well guys :) Let's get on with it !

Work on the chassis:

The bottom of the trunk is absolutely wrong in the Revell kit, whether it's series 1 or series 2 !

I cut out the bottom of the wrong trunk, and scratch-built a new one with styrene sheet. I also began to modify slightly with putty the shape I got, in order to round the angles and join correctly (flush)  the walls of the old tank

52232140005_f79cf2299f_c.jpg   52232140005_f79cf2299f_c.jpg


52231713123_ed68abc72d_c.jpg   52231708501_aae31c7573_c.jpg


52232193210_55914cd977_c.jpg   52231703816_25dd39923b_c.jpg


52231717823_2344828bdd_c.jpg   52231714506_0a23f87b9c_c.jpg



52231732136_d71fa2dbef_c.jpg   52230732547_f90c858118_c.jpg   52232216890_d63a222747_c.jpg


And I began to work on the interior design of the new trunk, above the fuel tank, in order to manage the spare wheel housing. In order to be closer of the real:

52231917704_a84e5a4cdc_c.jpg   52231720026_1d08be969a_c.jpg   52230724932_77c9ff2fdf_c.jpg


52232206685_5f1ede0372_c.jpg   52231999814_b981cf1205_c.jpg  52232210905_b9eab2c6c0_c.jpg


And I started to work on the trunk lid hinges:

52254221466_037e1edab3_c.jpg    52236515631_e5c06da716_c.jpg



But, August 1st, I faced several issues:

Not only, while handling, the kit body broke several times at doors level, but I made a major mistake while working on the underside of the the trunk lid, and it distorted to such  a point that I couldn't repaired it and remained unusable !

So, I was lucky to find a new kit on "LeBonCoin" ("The Right Place") and I ordered it.

And of course, all the job had to be redone !

To be continued :)




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This will be another outstanding model, Thierry (I do have it in my stash also, bought the very first release, will build it some day but won't get that far like you).

Another famous car belonged to former motorcycle and F1 champion, John Surtees, who got a 507 as a present from his former boss, Conte Agusta, when winning the bike world championship on MV Agusta in 1956. He kept the car all his life, and when he died a few years ago, it has been sold (at an auction, I believe).

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5 hours ago, 1959scudetto said:

This will be another outstanding model, Thierry (I do have it in my stash also, bought the very first release, will build it some day but won't get that far like you).

Another famous car belonged to former motorcycle and F1 champion, John Surtees, who got a 507 as a present from his former boss, Conte Agusta, when winning the bike world championship on MV Agusta in 1956. He kept the car all his life, and when he died a few years ago, it has been sold (at an auction, I believe).

You're right ! It's been sold at an auction by BONHAMS, for nearly 4000000 £ on July 2018 13th during Goodwood Festival od Speed.

It wasn't a convertible but a Coupé


Thanks for the kind praise :)


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Morning guys ;)

My new build with the second  began early August, slowly but surely ;)

At the moment,  I've cut the trunk lid out.

The underside of the trunk lid has also been improved, with the addition, as on the real, of a peripheral frame and the housing of closing/opening system (not functional).

52305977200_865e0d167f_c.jpg   52305963164_89c7c83ed0_c.jpg

52305451026_bfce93a865_c.jpg   52305920978_9e7ded504b_c.jpg


Furthermore, I dug a groove on the edges of the lid, to reducing its thickness and allowing the installation of a trunk lid seal on the body.

52305977175_5e981e21c4_c.jpg   52306526050_deb9c343ec_c.jpg

The jaws of the trunk closing system were shaped with files from 0.3 mm aluminium plate, after making and testing a temporary styrene template, and they will be glued later.


52305997241_40e39c0ac9_c.jpg   52305274797_8e6fb0fa7d_c.jpg

52305930846_38713627cd_c.jpg   52305208482_aba33cd1fd_c.jpg

52306440109_965b1948c1_c.jpg   52305208427_34787eb53c_c.jpg


I've  begun to redo the underside of the trunk, because the kit one is absolutely false.

52231931054_0024240a89_c.jpg   52230669767_c84dd213b2_c.jpg

52232140005_f79cf2299f_c.jpg   52231713123_ed68abc72d_c.jpg   52305917188_ab5d5bef3a_c.jpg

I've also done the interior of the trunk with the fabrication and installation of the side partitions, those delimiting the spare wheel storage space and the fuel tank, the fuel line from the filler neck to the tank, as well as the removable trunk floor in 2 parts.

52304729657_5cd0dfd8d3_c.jpg   52304729522_d93a6fb3f1_c.jpg

52305467441_68fa80973a_c.jpg   52304732562_f7447db97d_c.jpg

52305976950_777ce56ea8_c.jpg   52305453831_85a7ce6e76_c.jpg

52304729882_36a12db5bf_c.jpg   52306598845_eafe2eed29_c.jpg   52306598850_e8d477fd4b_c.jpg

52306598855_3f89d18963_c.jpg   52306584654_54bdf5d737_c.jpg

These last plates will be carpeted later

The almost vertical front bulkhead of the trunk has been fabricated, and installed on the underside of the body.

52304729892_9afb526f99_c.jpg   52304729877_e2ddfe65c1_c.jpg

52305979930_095bf7dc5b_c.jpg   52305257457_ab8ed72cab_c.jpg

I dug a groove on the underside of the horizontal portion of the reinforcement bar, in which I had planned to glue later the alu part of the hinges

52306502719_818fd32a07_c.jpg   52305986876_76dcbda2b2_c.jpg

52306448363_5ffc550a40_c.jpg   52306502694_a258536561_c.jpg

52305986501_d728222977_c.jpg   52306515535_8c3ccaa715_c.jpg


I made and installed the trunk lid hinges 


Initially, I thought I would install the hinges in the groove I dug previously on the horizontal portion of the reinforcement bar in front of the front bulkhead of the trunk


But it appeared that in this position, it was impossible to open the trunk because its front edge  hit quickly the body when lifting it, so, I placed it in front of the reinforcement bar, and trapped it in this position with a second plastic bar stuck on the first one by its underside .

52306515478_9f6497107a_c.jpg   52306458688_483a2ac7ff_c.jpg

52306598885_aed7fa4446_c.jpg   52305997221_14ba4b6b85_c.jpg

52306598880_8c60728d00_c.jpg   52305346102_925c2d8fde_c.jpg


52306069546_12de89f2c2_c.jpg   52306458405_a433093980_c.jpg

At last, I've done the new fuel flap and its hinges.

52305977110_f0c44d1527_c.jpg   52305968049_3677fda161_c.jpg52304729822_6729d1279a_c.jpg


All that remains to be done is to 3D print a new chute and glue it in place to complete this part of the assembly.


Have a look at the future trunk:

52305650077_188efd07bd_c.jpg   52306927105_2e49226533_c.jpg


Stay tuned if you like 😎

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17 hours ago, kelson said:

Absolutely incredible craftsmanship!!i wish i had this kind of talent.

Many thanks for this kind praise :)

13 hours ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

I like, I like!!

I'm happy to see that my editing pleases passionate modelers  :)

Thanks so much for all the photos you posted...of course, I'd already found them....For me it' a proof that you're a passionate :)

2 hours ago, iamsuperdan said:

That is some excellent work you're doing!



Thousand thanks, my Lord :)


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Afternoon guys :)

Time for an update, that is actually 15 days old 😎

 I've redrawn and 3D printed the fuel chute, and also designed and printed the filler cap, on Fusion 360.

The first 3D print came out nicely but, while testing the fit, I noticed that the fuel cap was too wide and didn't look realistic, so, I modified slightly my drawings:

52308736138_22611423bb_c.jpg   52308780994_77ef3ed377_c.jpg




Hereunder the result of the second 3D printing, very clean and nice

52310284758_4a185a2069_c.jpg   52310284768_b5fc813996_c.jpg


I've of course glued in place the chute, The cap is juts put on it for the photo, but I'm going to put it aside for now; it will be painted differently, and will be glued later.



Furthermore, I've finished to improve the bottom of the trunk, and primed all the chassis with an automotive grey filler primer, to reveal defects, that have been fixed immediately afterwards

I've take inspiration from the first picture below:



52310290573_8a2e4d5c22_c.jpg   52310332654_93c062d208_c.jpg


It remained to add in the trunk:

1/ on the top of the fuel tank:

- the fuel gauge

- the fuel pump and supply line

2/ On the bottom of the spare wheel housing:

- The holding straps of the wheel

As on this ref. photo:




So, I did them:

On the photos below, you'll see the copper fuel lines that I've drawn, but I'm not going to 3D print, since they will be made of real 0.3 mm copper wire.

52310556746_e89b383333_c.jpg   52311078840_7bd4ab03f3_c.jpg


52311021883_c73304a6ac_c.jpg   52311060134_d537ba6037_c.jpg


The 3D print of the top of fuel pump  came out nicely but the 2 holes were not visible and some details were missing.

I so redrew the stuff and I took opportunity to modify slightly the design and to add the top of fuel gauge.



The slicing under "Chitubox"



I  cut out on the fuel tank top a housing for the fuel pump:



A groove has also be dug above the fuel tank to accommodate this part and the fuel lines, but not above the level of the tank, so that the floor over it will not be wobbly.

A little try in place on the chassis before painting them separately and place wiring


To be continued :)



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32 minutes ago, absmiami said:

Crazy C - following your postings on Britmodeler - great stuff - thanks for crossing the Atlantic -  do you have this - very good feature - mite be helpful …


Wow ! No, I haven't ! 🤒

I just found it on Bay UK and ordered it for cheap :) bt will: receive it at the latest in 15 days ☹️

What's inside ?


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If you were American - I would make a joke about Cracker Jack - since you're not:

good drawings - cutaway - 3 view studio photography - I think you'll find it helpful

let me know ...

abs - miami

by the way - contrary to what you may have heard - Elvis has, in fact, "left the building" ...


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8 minutes ago, absmiami said:

If you were American - I would make a joke about Cracker Jack - since you're not:

good drawings - cutaway - 3 view studio photography - I think you'll find it helpful

let me know ...

abs - miami

by the way - contrary to what you may have heard - Elvis has, in fact, "left the building" ...


OK, I'm waiting for the delivery to check by myself !

And you can buy a lot of popcorn for the next episodes of my build 🤣 if you like it (my build, and Cracker Jack .."More you see/eat, more you want") ;)

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Afternoon, guys  :)

To complete the making of trunk, I had to fabricate the retaining straps for the spare wheel, and the fasteners for these straps 

Fabrication of the straps:

I used:
- 0.4 mm Nickel-Chrome wire for the buckles
- 0,4 mm brass tube, flated on an end, to make the barb of the belt buckle
- Paper-leather to make the straps

First, I did the central ring where attached the 2 rear straps and the front fixing one


Then, I made the belt buckle and its barb (functional )


I glued 3 straps around the centre ring


I glued the belt buckle  on the front strap


And I fastened the belts to give an idea

52315003365_d0b4e2ac14_c.jpg   52315004845_b7674dd2a4_c.jpg


And, for attaching the 3 holding straps, I needed to install 3 movable buckles in the wheel housing, so I made them:

- 0.4 mm Nickel-Chrome wire

-  A section of about 1 mm length  of 1.0 x 1.0 mm styrene square rode, that I drilled 0,5 mm in its centre

- Tweezers and a lot of patience

- The square rod is trapped in the metal wire before it is shaped

- And the buckle can spin around the plastic rod

52313930687_9f70422949_c.jpg   52314731826_7cd6b6004b_c.jpg


52315047173_d268187516_c.jpg   52315180425_814439ab98_c.jpg

And the same for the 2 other buckles


With the straps just pu to see out it comes out:



It just remain to cut the straps at the right length when I attach them, at the very end of this build.


Then, time came for serious - and risky - things:  cutting out the driver's door and fabrication of its hinges and of all the parts that will connect the tub to the body at this level.

So I had to find a solution that would allow this cutting in a safe way.
And the only option I saw and chose, after thinking about it for several days and checking a thousand times that it was technically and chronologically possible, is not to follow the assembly instructions that ask you to assemble and complete the "bathtub", then to glue it on the chassis, and only then to put the body on top of it!

No, you have to do the opposite:
- place the bathtub in the body without gluing it, then install the whole thing on the chassis, which allows a perfect positioning of these elements in relation to each other
- then glue the bathtub to the body with a few well placed glue dots
- Let it set and harden
- then take the body and bathtub out of the frame and finish gluing.
- Once dry and solid, put the whole on the frame, cut the doors, make the hinges and install them, without gluing them permanently on the doors, make all the missing elements of the inner body, which connect the bathtub and the body
- take the whole thing out of the frame
- Paint the whole thing, with different masking operations for the body, and the interior
- etc...

That said and planned, several remarks:

The BMW of Revell is a series 1 and the one of Elvis a series 2
I already listed some differences between the two series, but there are others !

1/ the dashboard is very different.
So I have to model and print a new one, and this has to be done BEFORE gluing the bathtub under the body, because necessarily, there will be drawing mistakes that will have to be rectified step by step, and many blank installation tests will have to be done. Of course, it would be much more difficult with my big fingers if the cabin was already fixed!

2/ the rear of the body at the cockpit and soft top housing level is very different, which will require a lot of surgery on the bathtub, in order to stick as close as possible to the real thing

Let me show you the differences:

Here is a 1 series: (Photos found on the Youtube channel of RMP-Styling.com and other websites)

52316211752_9150133bcb_c.jpg   52317474619_fbd1d3d028_c.jpg


52317474634_3c75fedd14_c.jpg   52317474419_45af79db12_c.jpg


52317493615_190b652bf2_c.jpg   52317493930_5f12b8939e_c.jpg


As you can see, there is no room under behind the seats. A partition wall is situated just there, and  the car cover housing is placed behind a wide metallic and painted part of the body placed just behind the seats

The cover of the car's cover is maintained on the body with 12 eyelet locks


Hereunder now various photos of a 2 series:

52316211757_27bfa397b8_c.jpg   52316211712_79f879f148_c.jpg


52317394673_8703960f21_c.jpg   52317521815_a0fb382ba8_c.jpg


52317493995_65741ea643_c.jpg   52317494010_ab982fc119_c.jpg


As you can see, there's a large space behind the seats, and the car cover mechanism is placed into it

The cover of the car's cover is maintained on the body with only 9 eyelet locks


So surgery began on the tub:

This is the parts supplied by Tamiya (tub and bulkhead)



Hereunder the first phase of the operation: I cut out the excess part of the tub top.

52317086971_4d1475f089_c.jpg   52317105791_3b620f8e66_c.jpg


And the "dressing" of the part of the bathtub  started...

The bottom:

52319795596_e31d614a04_c.jpg   52319795641_68a326a6a8_c.jpg


52320105958_f303bf420e_c.jpg   52318994462_4c79c2f5dd_c.jpg




The left side:



The unavoidable gaps between the different walls have been filled with Tamiya Light curing putty, which also strengthens the bonding, and I can assure you that despite the thinness of the rear edge (about 1 mm), it is now very rigid on the left side.



Rear and left sides:

52322613850_3abdaaa219_c.jpg   52321368867_9259e2ab2d_c.jpg


52322170726_6d42f44b8d_c.jpg   52322613640_9492e83877_c.jpg


52321369167_d53b59050d_c.jpg   52322596449_c4cd1b0af8_c.jpg


3 layers of putty have been applied and sanded.
It remained some slight surface imperfections, more visible after I've sprayed a primer coat.


52322170856_5877b6b213_c.jpg   52322488458_266a4b50ea_c.jpg


To achieve a perfect surface state, I ordered a new spray can of thick primer filler. 

And achieved the job:

52334364930_bfbd5a58c2_c.jpg   52333935131_b6a3fd138e_c.jpg


52334364870_9bf97d7cc0_c.jpg   52334364865_dc98100486_c.jpg


Of course, it remained some little imperfections that my iPhone 13's camera highlights, but don't forget that all this part of the tub will be carpeted !


And then, before glueing the tub under the body,  I'd first to 3D design and 3D print a new dashboard, and as I guess that several tries will be mandatory before getting a perfect thing, I'll have to test fit the 3D prints on the body to check if they fit correctly with it, the doors and the windscreen frame.
This attempts will be easier ro realize if the tub isn't glued on the body.

So let's go for some hours on Fusion 360 😎

Stay connected if you like :)


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