1/12th Scale 69 Camaro Top Sportsman Suspension and chassis jig.

[Ian McLaren]

11 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

The gold on the valley covers is perfect. 

The shot of the wheelie bars is perfect. 

Definitely coming along nicely. What color is the body going to be?

Thanks Bob, yes I am happy with the Moroso covers, got lucky on the rear end and wheelie bars.  The paint scheme at the moment is Wicked Colors Candy Orange over Tamiya Mica Silver and perhaps some gold fading on the silver under the orange for highlights (but no test p-anels have been shot as of yet and it may not turn out as I hope it will). Black RS hood and deck lid stripe with the scoop Candy orange.  I may use the hockey stripes on the sides, Black as well with photo etched "632" engne call outs in the stock location 

[Ian McLaren]

Quick mock up Moroso cover in its native habitat

Edited July 2, 2023 by Ian McLaren

[Ian McLaren]

A bit more progress on the engine, Dry sump system in progress and added Racepac V-Net oil pressure sensor

[Ian McLaren]

So about 11:30 last night I was looking at this thing trying to figure out what didn't look right. Took a bunch of pictures and started compairing it to some real cars, then I remeasured everything and by 12:30 had most of the frame ahead of the firewall desoldered and back in the jig. Rebuilt both lower control arms, adjusted the front rails, cut both front struts apart and lowered the engine some. Net result the front struts now bolt in, caster and camber are more correct, front wheels are now more centered in the wheel opening, ride height is adjustable, roll cage is closer to the roof, and to my eyes the car now has the stance and feel of the real cars. By the numbers, the car can now sit 2 inches lower and the wheel base is down 2 inches as well, but still at 110. I've kind of been dragging my feet on this one for a while as the look kept nagging on me but now this thing is going together.

[Ian McLaren]

On 7/1/2023 at 8:46 AM, Rattlecan Dan said:

This is an entirely phenomenal build. The amount of diligence, effort and attention to detail is beyond words. Thanks so much for the posting. Put me on your fan list.

Thanks for the kind words Donato, they certainly help the motivation on one of these long term projects. Truly appreciated.

[Ian McLaren]

Thank you Steve, I can't take any credit on these (except for drilling the valve stem holes) They were made by Jeff Faris, who also did the rear wheels, and all I knew about them was a five spoke pin drive aluminum wheel and I have to say I am extremely happy with how they turned out.

On 6/27/2023 at 12:33 PM, cifenet said:

It is great that the 5 spokes wheels allow the calipers and rotors to be very visible!  Sweet setup you got going here!  

 

[Ian McLaren]

Just finished my first 3D resin printed attempt and it worked, the file from Ron Olson of 3D Model Specialties, printed well except for a couple of rookie mistakes by myself. I now have a steering wheel, two fuel pumps two fire bottles, shifter, Racepak style dash displays, and multiple electronic boxes. More interiour parts to come shortly.

 

 

 

 

[Ian McLaren]

Upgrading the seat, but going to use the scratch built mounting brackets from the prior seat.

[Ian McLaren]

Ready for the belts, have to create Logos as there are no commercially available for Elite Safety Belts ( owned by a friend who is also a long time campainger of a nitrous Pro Mod).

[Ian McLaren]

Mock up of electronics tray tp make sure it still fits.

[John B.]

I'm thoroughly enjoying this master class on detailing!

[Ian McLaren]

On 7/12/2023 at 7:53 AM, John B. said:

I'm thoroughly enjoying this master class on detailing!

Thanks John,  There are more details on the way

[Ian McLaren]

More detailing started, Rear section of the fire supression system, line routing finalized tanks require decals (have to make as I can't locate suitable ones in 1/12th) and bracket fasterers

[Ian McLaren]

Quick and dirty decals. These are for those parts (like a fire bottle) that you may need to spice up a project but you either don't have a sheet with it on it, it's not available in your scale or it's for a manufacturer that no one has done a decal for. Also if you can print your own is it worth the decal paper and the time to scale it properly All you need is a color printer clear tape and some paper. Lastly these are not for on the body as they end up fairly thick depending on the paper and tape you use. In my case the fire bottle decal are in the interior and will only be seen through the rear window. HERE'S THE PROCESS Find a color picture of what you need on the net. Save the photo to your computor, Pull up the photo and print it. Measure the image compaired to what you need and calculate how much larger or smaller you need it. Print it a second time and used the printed scaling option to resize the printed image. Reprint and compair and adjust as necessary. Once you have it the correct size print as many as you need.. Used the clear tape to cover and protect you new decal and cut them out. Fasten to the model with a suitable glue (contact cement , glue stick, etc)

 

[AmericanMuscleFan]

I've had a lot of catching up to do with your superb project Ian, I'm very impressed with the quality of your work.  It's a great motivation for me to take on my own project, your dedication and knowledge on the subject is a real lesson on the subject and I'm taking notes! ?

I've had very little free time for my hobby lately, but I'm stocking up on your great ideas for the next building season! ?

[Ian McLaren]

Firebottle assy finished and going in a box to await final assembly, pressure gauges added to both bottles

[Rattlecan Dan]

Lordy! This is some kind of effort and detailing to the extreme. Looking on in amazement. Thanks for posting all this work so far.

[Ian McLaren]

Parachute attaching point and lanyardsbuilt and test fitted Parachutes are hand carved by me and now castable (these are the first two castings)

Edited July 20, 2023 by Ian McLaren

[Straightliner59]

Those look really nice, Ian! What did you use for the lines?

[Ian McLaren]

Thank Daniel, I used  1/4" Soft & Easy Stretch interface sold by fabricland here in Canada. It has 4 very small elastic cords woven into it and I used the white.  To get this effect I stretched it between two poles and sprayed it lightly with Stainless Steel anti corrosion coating ( made by SEM), once released the effect is quite good. To get the loops I took 1/4 inch black shrink tube that I stretched to a larger size to get the cord through.  Heated the shrink tube and it's done.

[Straightliner59]

Thank you. I like it--looks very close!

[Ian McLaren]

10 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Thank you. I like it--looks very close!

Sorry Daniel, last night when I replied to your question I stated I used 1/4"  material when I fact it was 1/8th" sorry for the confustion

10 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Thank you. I like it--looks very close!

 

[Ian McLaren]

Today I started assembly of the chassis, starting from the middle and working my out of the cage one wire at a time.  Order of assembly is critical as there is not much area.,even in this scale and access is going to get progressivly more difficult, I think I'm going back to dragsters and funnycars after this. LOL

[Straightliner59]

7 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

I'm going back to dragsters

Let me tell you...dragsters aren't always so easy, either! Hahaha Definitely easier than door cars, though.

[Ian McLaren]

14 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Let me tell you...dragsters aren't always so easy, either! Hahaha Definitely easier than door cars, though.

It depends on the age of the car, some dragsters had a wiring harness that was comprised by a mag kill wire.  Others like your current project are like trying to wire the space shuttle.