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A Forty Coupe in need of my love


customline

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Excellent work so far and a nice tribute to a builder who may no longer be with us.

One quick suggestion for the paint issue on the trunk, if you haven't already addressed it. It looks to me that the light spot is in the gap between the trunk lid and body, why not just use some panel line darkener and throw some shadow into there?

David G.

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43 minutes ago, David G. said:

Excellent work so far and a nice tribute to a builder who may no longer be with us.

One quick suggestion for the paint issue on the trunk, if you haven't already addressed it. It looks to me that the light spot is in the gap between the trunk lid and body, why not just use some panel line darkener and throw some shadow into there?

David G.

Sorry, Dave, things have changed (read back). After a swim in the purple pond and lots of scrubbing, "improving", and such....well, it's taking me somewhere else. Even the green needed some work underneath the paint. It was a nice thought, though, and thanks for your interest.

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On 2/22/2023 at 4:32 PM, Slotto said:

I'm with you Jimbo. I dig that black one and what's next to the blue one 😉

Neither car is what one would call to my taste, but I certainly wouldn't say no to the accessory in the second photo. That said, the color on that one is really nice.

Charlie Larkin

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4 hours ago, charlie8575 said:

Neither car is what one would call to my taste, but I certainly wouldn't say no to the accessory in the second photo. That said, the color on that one is really nice.

Charlie Larkin

Unfortunately, Charlie, my kit did not come with that particular custom option. I believe something similar might be found in the Jimmy Flintstone catalog, probably with less clothing. My other '40 (the short one) has just been painted with Boyd's "Ice Blue Pearl" so this one will very likely be satin black with the gold firewall (very snazzy 😉) because I reeeeeealy like the way it looks. And the nailhead (if I use it) will give it a nice nostalgic attitude. That and a nose-down stance (if I can 😎)

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2 hours ago, David G. said:

Ah, it looks much better now.

That speedboat green had a bit of a 70's vibe to it. This shade looks a bit more contemporary.

David G.

Yeah, David, that one is about subtlety.  The conservative roof reduction goes well, I think, with the Ice Blue Pearl. Subtle. A crate 350 would make more sense than my FE out of a wreck. I may reconsider that. 💩

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I've been trying to use the nailhead supplied in the kit but it's a horrible example of that engine and needed some "improvement ".  The heads would not fit properly with the locating pins AMT provided so the pins were eliminated. The heads were far from accurate and I had to add material on the top of them to raise the intake manifold and rocker covers. The spark plugs, which protruded unrealistically were removed and the heads were drilled for wires. The "custom" exhaust headers were replaced with ones that, I believe, came from the Monogram '39 chevy coupe (OK, the ports don't line up accurately but they are block huggers and they, at least, look like real headers.)  I was able to tweak the frame and headers to get a nice inside-the-frame fit.  I also replaced the molded-in magneto with one I scratched. AMT didn't think the custom Oldsmobile nailhead needed coolant circulating through the block so they didn't provide a means to connect the radiator to the heads....so I scratched that too.  I am not sure if this engine is the one I want in this hood-delete car. I want it hood-less as a style element, I like the look but, unfortunately, I don't think I can make this engine look good enough. I do have the flathead ready to go and I'm considering it. Ill just need to fab an exhaust  for it.  The "Olds" nailhead can go in a barn find rusted-out something-or-other. Sometimes it seems like I'm just chasing my tail. 😔

IMG_3755.jpg.14d3b5b9b077e5da02c713978dc1f59d.jpgIMG_3756.thumb.jpg.b11a5bcb4fac94b6451e9041db31345d.jpg04-vi.jpg.d97a6f372df13fd1381ce40d00635d88.jpgIMG_3749.jpg.c0d1793214dc09991c5c9831f1e09bcd.jpg Thanks for looking (and waiting 😕)

 

Edited by customline
Corrective measures
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Thanks, David, I'm sure I'm not the first to find these things with the "Oldsmobile engine". What I find mystifying is that it was allowed to go without correction by the Aluminum Model Toys so-called designers. This kit was first produced many decades ago. It's not like nobody knew. They kept up this nonsense for generations. Because the '40 is such a popular subject, it baffles me that they never re-tooled .... or did they? 🤔. I don't know 😕.  The current Revell kit is far superior to this in every way and I will try to avoid these old kits. There's just too much I feel compelled to try to correct and waste time I could spend otherwise. No more glue-bombs for me, thank you very much. 💩

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☺️I am forging ahead with the Olds nailhead. The flavor of this '40 is leaning heavily toward street/strip as the torque tube has been supplanted by an open drives haft. The wishbone was scrapped and traction bars were fabricated, with a very familiar part adapted to the frame to catch the forward anchors. I need to add shocks somewhere all around, a task I dislike for some reason not fully understood. 🤔. I will get to it. I'm tempted to assemble the chassis, front axle, rear axle, steering, etc. And spray as a unit but this is not that kind of build. All the fab work needs to be featured by color differences. Otherwise, why all the fuss? Anyway, this is what I did today. Thanks for your approval in advance 🤓.

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IMG_3766.jpg

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36 minutes ago, David G. said:

It just looks better and better with each update.

David G.

 

Thank you, David.  I was letting the kit's numerous and varied shortcomings get to me but it is what it is. I think I may need to re-shape the wheel openings slightly. The severe lowering in front is having an impact in that area and it just needs tweaking. I'm planning to add a 3 point roll bar, fire extinguisher, and a shoulder harness. I'll be addressing the interior soon. The firewall needs some work for a little clearance for the magneto and to plug the hinge holes. The radiator has been modified slightly to move it forward a few mms. I could delete the fan, I suppose, but I need it for a street driven car. I want street/strip to be evident. I need to research when those wheels entered the market because they really put a date on the car. Open drive conversions also. Nailheads go back to the early fifties so all these elements come into play.  I'm becoming authenticity conscious in my old age 😏.  I think a license plate with a late sixties date from your neck of the woods would be appropriate and easily done. Maybe a dragstrip decal on the quarter glass from that era and region. I could use some help on that. But I ramble in my early morning half asleep state. I really appreciate your interest, David, and everyone else watching my builds. It keeps me going.

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Today's progress involved filling the hinge holes in the firewall with Evergreen and CA and repair of body damage that was apparently inflicted by not using a sprue cutter when removing the body tree. I just glued on backing inside and filled with thick CA and kicker, then sanded back flush. Zipped off the backing with Dremel drum. Then wet sanded the rest.

I noticed, while checking the radiator to engine fan clearance,  that the bottom tank was missing...hmmmm....that's OK because there's no bottom hose either (or a top hose either, nor anything to locate the hoses to on the engine 🥴. Great, because I hate hooking up bottom hoses anyway!) But I faked a bottom tank in case I get in one of my fussy moods.  

Also, I added some "sheet metal" to the nose above the grille to clean up the no-hood look. I may cover it with aluminum BMF (narrative considered - unnecessary weight removed from car including hood latch hardware, covered unsightlyness with lightweight aluminum)

Thanks for looking,    More later...😴

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23 hours ago, customline said:

 

Thank you, David.  I was letting the kit's numerous and varied shortcomings get to me but it is what it is. I think I may need to re-shape the wheel openings slightly. The severe lowering in front is having an impact in that area and it just needs tweaking. I'm planning to add a 3 point roll bar, fire extinguisher, and a shoulder harness. I'll be addressing the interior soon. The firewall needs some work for a little clearance for the magneto and to plug the hinge holes. The radiator has been modified slightly to move it forward a few mms. I could delete the fan, I suppose, but I need it for a street driven car. I want street/strip to be evident. I need to research when those wheels entered the market because they really put a date on the car. Open drive conversions also. Nailheads go back to the early fifties so all these elements come into play.  I'm becoming authenticity conscious in my old age 😏.  I think a license plate with a late sixties date from your neck of the woods would be appropriate and easily done. Maybe a dragstrip decal on the quarter glass from that era and region. I could use some help on that. But I ramble in my early morning half asleep state. I really appreciate your interest, David, and everyone else watching my builds. It keeps me going.

Wow Jim, you're giving this kit more love than it was ever intended to have, that's quite a list!

Isn't it amazing how once we dive into these builds they can seem to take on a life of their own? Sometimes it's just best to let the project take its own course.

David G.

Edited by David G.
typo
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3 hours ago, David G. said:

Wow Jim, you're giving this kit more love than it was ever intended to have, that's quite a list!

Isn't it amazing how once we dive into these builds they can seem to take on a life of their own? Sometimes it's just best to let the project take its own course.

David G.

Yup. I believe that's what's happening here, David.  Here's a theory:

[we model crafters will always find need for improvements regardless of how accurate or well tooled the kit may be.] 

In the case of this kit, it was just a box full of raw material. I have a drawer full of Evergreen that is no different than a lot of low grade kits - just raw material. There are some kits that need very little detailing to satisfy most builders. My 300 B project is a great kit straight out of the box. I couldn't leave it be, though. I cut the trunk and the driver's door. Had to do it. To quote that Manfred Mann lyric - 🎵  "....that's where the fun is" 😎

 

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Sum and total for today. Radius rods. (Narrative:  They are home-made, welded together with an old Craftsman buzz box and some 1/8" 7018, slightly damp, off a job the week before.😣. Ain't purty but they'll do.)

The beam axle from this, and pretty much all AMT old kits, are way out of scale, my eyes tell me. Oh well 😥. The brass wire you see protruding out front will be my lower shock mounts. There had been a steering link but I broke it. Gotta fix that and find a suitable steering box (or make one). Well, I gotta go let the Cheshire cat out.

 

IMG_3780.jpg.9ad89cb5c934bd51ef74b490c0676522.jpg

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12 hours ago, David G. said:

Your version of the front suspension is a vast improvement over what the kit provides. I mean, obviously that's the idea but it's often the littlest details that make the biggest difference.

Great lyric quote BTW!

David G.

Building the way I do, it is necessary to keep looking stuff up on the internet for reference. A quick scan of Bing images usually gives me what I need. I need to look deeper on this one (I have no first hand experience with a '40 Ford.)  The Revell kit, which is sitting next to this one, has the wishbone in better detail and the rear anchor points of it (it is split) are located close to the center. My understanding is that the wishbone has a single anchor point on the centerline. But, again, I dunno...gotta research, but it looks like a modification. I'm running block huggers that would maybe interfere with a wishbone so, theoretically, I tossed it and built hairpin-ish radius rods, to get around things. Not too sure if it's a legitimate set-up but I believe it could work in the real world although they would not be as simple as I have depicted them. Am I over-thinking this? 🤔.  My version is a homemade looking thing you might see on the front end of an early altered or rail back in the late fifties. It's a hot rod built at home; that's the narrative. I'm currently scratching out tube shocks for the front (not much fun) and I feel like I should be working on the other one. I'm kinda bound up at the bench. Sometimes I just don't know what to do.  😑  Below is the well detailed Revell 

IMG_3443.thumb.jpg.feac2ef620a725c343b20a7f03ff9f03.jpg

 

Edited by customline
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Cobbled up a pair of shocks for the front today, the upper mounts "welded" to the frame. I know, bolt-on f-100 mounts would be a proper thing but not at this scale.....I welded on my home-mades.  The hardest thing to do is drilling out the eyes for the shock ends. I keep breaking things and dropping stuff. It's a nightmare. The chassis still needs some cleaning up but is almost ready for paint now but I had to check on what a 1:1 fuel tank looks like. Is it really just flat? Didn't seem right to me. I needed to know if it should have beading or whatever. Dennis Carpenter has a factory spec tank that is plain flat on the bottom. Okay! 

Shocks will get dark red or yellow paint and Molotow via brush.  I'm using the Keystone rims provided by the kit and I will be detailing them after my wife leaves the house tonight. She doesn't like to hear my frustrations being voiced at high volume.  

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